In reply to 1philjones1:
It was in great alpine condition yesterday. Dry Rock. Good snow and ice in parts but some soft stuff in the sun. The gap is clean rock and a light rack with a couple of ice screws would suffice. (We used screws for Eastern traverse belay) . Consider your way off the top though. We looked at no4 but backed off as the huge cornice has detached and was sat there oozing menace. Enjoy.