UKC

Hi,

The Rockfax Dorset guide recommends 50m half ropes for Swanage trad. How essentail is this for the majority of easier stuff (upto HVS)? Could i get away with a 60m single with a bit of careful route selection, or is that likely to cause me problems?

Cheers

KB

In reply to kingborris:

You could make it work, but a lot of the routes move around a lot left and right as well as through roofs.

In reply to kingborris:
You would probably be OK at Subluminal, if you used long extenders to keep the rope fairly in line.

At most of the other venues, I think you would experience serious rope drag. I have only ever climbed at Swanage with doubles and using reasonably long extenders and slings where necessary. Even then, I have occasionally had some pretty bad rope drag over the top on the steep mud and grass slopes before any belay is possible.

Edit; I would just add that, like sea cliffs such as Gogarth, climbing at Swanage is pretty intimidating and steep and pumpy. It is the last place you want to be pumped a bit scared and fighting rope drag shouting down to your belayer "GIVE ME SOME F*****g SLACK! whist the waves are crashing and the wind is blowing and your belayer cannot hear anything......

Invest in a couple of 60m half ropes and have a much more enjoyable, stress free time.

Cheers, Rich.

In reply to kingborris:

Have you any particular routes in mind ? something like Finale Groove might be OK with real care, Lightning wall (for instance) would be a disaster.

In reply to kingborris:

Aren't single ropes almost standard on trad in the States? (but with the caveat that so are very long extenders and a correspondingly different approach to avoiding rope drag).

In reply to kingborris:
You'll be ok at Subluminal but I wouldnt consider it on any of the longer routes

In reply to kingborris:

You could get away with a single in some routes but you will be severely limited. Finale groove might be the only Ruckle route possible, and even then not ideal. Subliminal and cattle troughs are short enough to allow you to double a single rope.

Basically I'd head to Portland instead! I've just replaced my double ropes so I'd happily give you old ropes for free but you'd have to collect from w london.

In reply to kingborris:

If you double up your rope you'll be fine for pretty much everything in the ruckle, provided you take a stance at the break.

In reply to Lawrence Dudley:

I wouldn't like to bet on always getting to the belay stakes especially if you want to belay off two.

In reply to kingborris:
If it's your first visit I'd stick to subliminal as you can scramble down and tie into both ends of your single and know you'll be ok .The bigger crags need an abseil approach, it's as well to leave the abseil in place if your not sure of the territory

In reply to kingborris:

Having done most of my climbing at Swanage I would wholeheartedly recommend doubles - even then you still have to be careful and extend under roofs

In reply to kingborris:

With a bit if careful rope management you will be able to climb a significant amount of routes, even in the, on a single. You'll just need to do a bit of preplanning and avoid anything with too much of a traverse.

Having said that, I have done Lightning Wall on a single rope during one of my first Ruckle outings (don't ask, the situation necessitated it...), so anything is possible!

In reply to kingborris:

As long as you have a bunch of 60cm sling draws and the odd 120cm sling you will be fine, just belay on the mid-height fault when in the Ruckle to avoid drag.

In reply to Richard White:


A bit surprised by these answers - I'd have thought you could get away with a single 30m for most stuff at Subluminal. Don't listen to my advice, obviously!

In reply to kingborris:

Doubles - when you eventually ab in and forget a rope, you've still got the other one. Prusiking back up your ab rope out of The Ruckle is not fun.

In reply to phantom whistler:

Been there done that Escaped up Heidelberg on a doubled up 60 half rope belaying at the break. Memory was i was a bit tight on rope.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Hi, I was referring more to the fact that using a single at Subluminal still requires a bit of care to avoid rope drag.

However, I disagree that a 30m would be sufficient at Subluminal though. Yes, areas such as the Face, Stroof and Freda are about 15m in height, but Avernus, Mars area, Black Zawn and Lighthouse Cliff are all 20m and over. With extra rope needed for belays, 30m is not enough, especially if using a single 30m.

Cheers,

Rich.

In reply to kingborris:

Thanks all. I may just stick to sport this weekend untill i get some halfs sorted. that is if the weather doesnt cancel the trip!

In reply to kingborris:
Don't wait, ...go out and do it. Single ropes are fine if you pick the right route. Very rarely used halfs as I don't like the extra weight. Just use long extenders.

The weather however may have much more impact on your plans.

In reply to Derry:

Yeah if you take enough long slings to extend placements and aren't scared of falling a bit further should be ok.

The other issue is all the flint / chert, just having one rope does increase your chances of it getting cut through if you do take a whipper! I know of a friend of a friend that got badly injured when his rope cut there but it was a 9mm, I don't think he had gear on the other rope yet (something to watch!).

In reply to kingborris:

its a recommendation , there are plenty of two pitched routes to do at boulder ruckle but you'll have a better day if you climb them as one pitch with double half ropes. more routes = more fun.

In reply to kingborris:
Yeah don't be surprised if you only get a few routes in if you go for the more adventurous abseil in areas (ie the ruckle, guillemot, comorant etc). For a summer day 3 is about average and 4 good going, never managed 5 although it's not a race

Btw I hate subluminal with a passion, its nothing like as good as the ruckle, completely different climbing although atleast the rock is more solid at subluminal , I find the holds often slope the wrong way, its polished (often even in the cracks so cams aren't as secure) and the gear is less bomber and more fiddly! Oh yeah and the grades are bonkers hard (whilst I don't find that normally on the ruckle routes)

In reply to kingborris:

the high likelyhood of it pissing down all weekend has put the kibosh on the trip entirely

But thanks for all the replies. good to know for next time!