UKC

Going to Montserrat soon, and thinking about doing some trad there.

I've climbed some bolted routes there, but I didn't see any potential gear placements on them. Is there particularly useful or useless gear for protecting on conglomerate?

In reply to humptydumpty:

only been there once, but used a bit of gear in between some of the sparsely spaced bolts. Found a few threads for slings and oddly small cams/medium sized nuts fitted quite well between protruding 'spuds'.

Enjoy

In reply to Derry:

Thanks - that's some useful info. A separate question: any idea if the gear would actually hold a fall?!

In reply to humptydumpty:

I'm not sure about a 30 foot whipper, but definitely a small fall. All dependant on the actual placement of course. If you're doing just natural pro, I'm guessing its up some crack line in the conglomerate and not just clove-hitching protrusions. From what I remember of the crack systems, they're really compact i.e. not much loose stuff. Although we were on fairly classic (i.e well trodden) routes.

In reply to humptydumpty:


That's why they were bolted...

A standard rack will get you up most things there. Small gear (Aliens, IMP's), pitons/knifeblades and hangers are necessary or recommended in some routes, but that'll be forewarned in the topo