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UKC Fit Club Week 424
Sorry it's a little late, but the DIY won't wait for the weather! (or is that the other way around?)
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=614493
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: http://www.epictv.com/content/super-dynamic-footage-iker-pou%E2%80%99s-fa-%... If at first you dont succeed... plus it's nice to see someone who is actually older than me send something hard, instead of kids half my age!
Last week's posters:
Cheese Monkey - good job on the 7b! Going to get that bad boy on lead?
mbh -bad times, are you going to get it checked out medically?
Humperdink - Even more solid mileage week
AJM - You must be working hard if you are trashing your skin from training volume!
flopsicle - I think the daughter 'chase and lift' could be the next big antagonist exercise...
Exile - Getting on an old project always feels hard at first, you'll soon be crushing!
planetmarshall - I'm a big advocate of lots of antagonist work keep beasting those shoulders!
Dandan82 - Kaly has properly broken my elbows
Roadrunner5 - Another astronomical mileage week, it's utterly beyond me
mrchewy - Glad the knee feels better, my toes hurt when I learned about footwork too! Soon faded though.
Joyce - the project is getting closer, any idea/aim for vaguely how long before you do it? (end of sept seems too long!)
mattrm - At least nobody can complain that you don't lift a finger around the house...
alexm198 - Welcome! A climber and a runner? you'll fit right in
Tyler - congrats on the 7a onsight! big stepping stone that one
The Ex-Engineer - Another 7b+, and in 2 goes too, awesome!
hms - back on HOM at all? Perhaps tomorrow (monday?)
Luke Owens - did Nomad go this week?
Willi Crater - Quiet week, keep pushing on!
Ally Smith - Good job on speedy 8a+! Although to be fair I want to hear about the Shelby...
0.5viking - First 7- nice! Careful with that shoulder (voice of lots and lots of experience)
Just Tintin - Welcome back, sound like a hectic couple of weeks
Nick Russell - Morrocco sounds awesome! Back safe and sound?
JayK - Hope you find some psyche, but don't psuh on for the hell of it, sure fire way to make you hate training
biscuit - sounds like you need a meditation retreat, not more training! Clear your head and you'll be flying!
Mutl3y - can't wait to hear of your impressive climbing feats! Diet sound like hard work
AWOL Creedence, Lancer, Joughton, Ian Rock
Sorry it's a little late, but the DIY won't wait for the weather! (or is that the other way around?)
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=614493
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: http://www.epictv.com/content/super-dynamic-footage-iker-pou%E2%80%99s-fa-%... If at first you dont succeed... plus it's nice to see someone who is actually older than me send something hard, instead of kids half my age!
Last week's posters:
Cheese Monkey - good job on the 7b! Going to get that bad boy on lead?
mbh -bad times, are you going to get it checked out medically?
Humperdink - Even more solid mileage week
AJM - You must be working hard if you are trashing your skin from training volume!
flopsicle - I think the daughter 'chase and lift' could be the next big antagonist exercise...
Exile - Getting on an old project always feels hard at first, you'll soon be crushing!
planetmarshall - I'm a big advocate of lots of antagonist work keep beasting those shoulders!
Dandan82 - Kaly has properly broken my elbows
Roadrunner5 - Another astronomical mileage week, it's utterly beyond me
mrchewy - Glad the knee feels better, my toes hurt when I learned about footwork too! Soon faded though.
Joyce - the project is getting closer, any idea/aim for vaguely how long before you do it? (end of sept seems too long!)
mattrm - At least nobody can complain that you don't lift a finger around the house...
alexm198 - Welcome! A climber and a runner? you'll fit right in
Tyler - congrats on the 7a onsight! big stepping stone that one
The Ex-Engineer - Another 7b+, and in 2 goes too, awesome!
hms - back on HOM at all? Perhaps tomorrow (monday?)
Luke Owens - did Nomad go this week?
Willi Crater - Quiet week, keep pushing on!
Ally Smith - Good job on speedy 8a+! Although to be fair I want to hear about the Shelby...
0.5viking - First 7- nice! Careful with that shoulder (voice of lots and lots of experience)
Just Tintin - Welcome back, sound like a hectic couple of weeks
Nick Russell - Morrocco sounds awesome! Back safe and sound?
JayK - Hope you find some psyche, but don't psuh on for the hell of it, sure fire way to make you hate training
biscuit - sounds like you need a meditation retreat, not more training! Clear your head and you'll be flying!
Mutl3y - can't wait to hear of your impressive climbing feats! Diet sound like hard work
AWOL Creedence, Lancer, Joughton, Ian Rock
In reply to Dandan:
A good week training-wise, even though the weather hasn't been as good as of late.
Mon - Rest
Tue - CrossFit. Pullups, Pushups, Situps, 400m run
Wed - Trail Run. 15.5k/461m
Thu - Trail Run. 10.25k/332m
Fri - CrossFit. 10 Sets 5x Snatch @30kg, 10x Wall Balls @7kg. 5 sets push press @30kg
Sat - Climbing, AW Stockport. 30mins continuous climbing at 5+, 2 routes at 6a
Mon - Trail Run. 11.34km/569m
A good week training-wise, even though the weather hasn't been as good as of late.
Mon - Rest
Tue - CrossFit. Pullups, Pushups, Situps, 400m run
Wed - Trail Run. 15.5k/461m
Thu - Trail Run. 10.25k/332m
Fri - CrossFit. 10 Sets 5x Snatch @30kg, 10x Wall Balls @7kg. 5 sets push press @30kg
Sat - Climbing, AW Stockport. 30mins continuous climbing at 5+, 2 routes at 6a
Mon - Trail Run. 11.34km/569m
In reply to Dandan:
Yup ticked 7b!
M- up early to drive to Stoke, hotel in the evening, too tired and demotivated to train
T- 1hr cycle
W- 30 min run in morning. Afternoon went and did Heil Hitler 7a multi pitch. Was excellent! RPd the 7a pitches very quickly. Fell off seconding a pumpy E2 after
T- good swim, 750m in 16min. Pleased. Vibe killed by some idiot
F- First (soft) 7b! Bitter and Twisted at Avon New Quarry. Did a completely different sequence through the start and it went easy. Feeling strong. Flew to Spain in evening
S- Spain sport climbing- Valle de Abdalajis- a 6c that was more like 6a and a 6a missing a hold that was more like 6c that I tried too hard on resulting in aching shoulder. Very hot
S- Loja- warmed up on an incredible 6a+, followed up by 6c+ on TR, should have led it but couldn't be bothered. Still an awesome route. Shoulder hurting a lot
A few more sport climbing sessions planned this week and a whole load of relaxing. Will get out for a run at some point but triathlon training is on hold. Goals have been swapped for wine, beer and food haha
Yup ticked 7b!
M- up early to drive to Stoke, hotel in the evening, too tired and demotivated to train
T- 1hr cycle
W- 30 min run in morning. Afternoon went and did Heil Hitler 7a multi pitch. Was excellent! RPd the 7a pitches very quickly. Fell off seconding a pumpy E2 after
T- good swim, 750m in 16min. Pleased. Vibe killed by some idiot
F- First (soft) 7b! Bitter and Twisted at Avon New Quarry. Did a completely different sequence through the start and it went easy. Feeling strong. Flew to Spain in evening
S- Spain sport climbing- Valle de Abdalajis- a 6c that was more like 6a and a 6a missing a hold that was more like 6c that I tried too hard on resulting in aching shoulder. Very hot
S- Loja- warmed up on an incredible 6a+, followed up by 6c+ on TR, should have led it but couldn't be bothered. Still an awesome route. Shoulder hurting a lot
A few more sport climbing sessions planned this week and a whole load of relaxing. Will get out for a run at some point but triathlon training is on hold. Goals have been swapped for wine, beer and food haha
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Thanks Dan!
Disappointing week for me. Haven't felt 100% and have been worked into the ground for the last few days doing a pretty manic tent clearance show so have put up and taken down nearly 100 tents which has sapped training enthusiasm...
M: 7.56km/203m trail run. HR Zone 1. Felt really good on this run - pretty short but felt steady and quick, with the HR nice and low.
T: Evening at Symonds Yat, partner bailed again unfortunately so plans of getting on Red Rose Speedway were scuppered. I traversed along the bottom of the crag as continuously as possible until the water pipe bay and then soloed some easy routes just to get the mileage in. Disappointing session.
W: 12.51km/412m trail run. HR Zone 1. Felt solid but struggled to keep the HR down on the long climbs.
T: Planned rest.
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Nothing...
Hopefully I'll settle back into the rhythm this coming week.
STG (next week): 36km/1000m cumulative, Red Rose Speedway or equivalent HVS elsewhere.
Thanks Dan!
Disappointing week for me. Haven't felt 100% and have been worked into the ground for the last few days doing a pretty manic tent clearance show so have put up and taken down nearly 100 tents which has sapped training enthusiasm...
M: 7.56km/203m trail run. HR Zone 1. Felt really good on this run - pretty short but felt steady and quick, with the HR nice and low.
T: Evening at Symonds Yat, partner bailed again unfortunately so plans of getting on Red Rose Speedway were scuppered. I traversed along the bottom of the crag as continuously as possible until the water pipe bay and then soloed some easy routes just to get the mileage in. Disappointing session.
W: 12.51km/412m trail run. HR Zone 1. Felt solid but struggled to keep the HR down on the long climbs.
T: Planned rest.
F: Nothing
S: Nothing
S: Nothing...
Hopefully I'll settle back into the rhythm this coming week.
STG (next week): 36km/1000m cumulative, Red Rose Speedway or equivalent HVS elsewhere.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Breathing issues with allergies meant a poor week but ended well. But another week of 90+ miles and 10,000 feet of ascent.
m: 3.7 miles 6:30 pace.
t: 14 miles 8 times to the summits of Mt Joy and Mt Misery to get 3000 feet of ascent in.
w: 20 miles 8:30 pace, breathing attrocious.
t: 5 miles 6:30 pace breathing better
f: 4 miles steady 7:30 pace
s: 45 miles. 43 mile run from the Mason Dixon Line in Pennsylvania along the Appalachian Trail through Maryland, West Virginia to the Virginia Border. The 4 state challenge. New FKT established, around 90 minutes off the last one. 43 miles, 7000feet ascent and technical trails, I had support at miles 20 and 40.
s: am: 4 mile hike up Loudoun Heights WV. pm: probably a 3-4 mile run to come.
Breathing issues with allergies meant a poor week but ended well. But another week of 90+ miles and 10,000 feet of ascent.
m: 3.7 miles 6:30 pace.
t: 14 miles 8 times to the summits of Mt Joy and Mt Misery to get 3000 feet of ascent in.
w: 20 miles 8:30 pace, breathing attrocious.
t: 5 miles 6:30 pace breathing better
f: 4 miles steady 7:30 pace
s: 45 miles. 43 mile run from the Mason Dixon Line in Pennsylvania along the Appalachian Trail through Maryland, West Virginia to the Virginia Border. The 4 state challenge. New FKT established, around 90 minutes off the last one. 43 miles, 7000feet ascent and technical trails, I had support at miles 20 and 40.
s: am: 4 mile hike up Loudoun Heights WV. pm: probably a 3-4 mile run to come.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fit club again fella.
Yep, felt hard but I'm sure we'll get into the flow of it pretty quickly.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am. 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: pm. 1hr 30min traverses & core at the wall. (PE)
W: Rest
T: am. 1hr traverses & core at the wall. (PE)
F: am. 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
S: Rest
S: am. 1hr 30min traverses & core at the wall. (PE)
Steady week. Weather hasn't played ball for climbing outside.
Thanks for doing fit club again fella.
Yep, felt hard but I'm sure we'll get into the flow of it pretty quickly.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started.
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am. 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
T: pm. 1hr 30min traverses & core at the wall. (PE)
W: Rest
T: am. 1hr traverses & core at the wall. (PE)
F: am. 1hr 30min road ride (Mountain endurance)
S: Rest
S: am. 1hr 30min traverses & core at the wall. (PE)
Steady week. Weather hasn't played ball for climbing outside.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing Fit Club Dan. Back safely from Morocco, but crashed a bit this week with a nasty cold. Didn't miss out on much though since the weather's been poor anyway.
M - Last day of Morocco trip. See week 424
T - Nothing. Travel back from Morocco.
W - 6km run (fartlek - got to love that word)
T - Abortive session at TCA. Called it a day after about 40 minutes feeling generally crap.
F - Nothing. Ill
S - Nothing. Ill
S - Nothing. Ill
Withdrawal symptoms this week have given me cause to sit back and think a bit about where my climbing is and where I'm going.
In sport climbing I made rapid progress to 7b+ RP in autumn 2013, then a few 7c RPs in 2014. Onsighting I'd give myself slightly above even odds on 7a, with a good chance of flashing 7a+ with the right beta. Take me somewhere with easy to read routes and maybe I'd do better, but I'm only talking about UK lime here.
In bouldering, I'd expect to be able to do a lot of 6C problems, with the odd 6C+ or 7A if it suits me/is a bit soft. This has been the case for over a year now. I think I made some decent gains over the 2013/14 winter, but nothing significant since. This doesn't come as a surprise since that's the last time I really focussed on strength or bouldering.
I'm pretty sure I've been seeing slow but steady improvements in my trad year on year. I've made a decent start this year with a couple of E4 routes under my belt. I'd like to see this continue.
My analysis of this is that my trad has improved through gains in fitness, with contributions from technique and experience (I've been climbing for less than 5 years). Any improvement in sport climbing over the last year (1x7b+ in 2013; 5x7b+, 2x7c in 2014) has been largely due to tactics and patience.
From here, I think I'd see the best gains from an increase in strength. If anybody's read this far, I'd appreciate other opinions. Pushing into consistent 7A bouldering with the odd 7A+ or 7B would give me a lot more in hand on high 7/low 8 sport. I'm not really willing to focus on indoor bouldering over the summer but it will give me something to aim for come winter. In the meantime, keeping at least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over the summer seems like a modest goal that will help me at least not lose any strength I have!
Given my current levels, I think I can expect to collect a decent number of E4s if I keep my head, and would have a chance at a carefully chosen E5 (Wall of the Worlds (E5 6a)? something soft at Pembroke? not that I'm going to make E5 a goal this year). Sport-wise I still have that Brean progression in mind, and have my eye on a few routes in the 7b-7c range at Cheddar South. Currently more motivated by trad though.
Goals:
Trad routes at E4
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 2; Clean onsight: 2
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Get stronger
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Dedicate some time to this over winter
Sort out the assymetry (ongoing)
> Nick Russell - Morrocco sounds awesome! Back safe and sound?
Thanks for doing Fit Club Dan. Back safely from Morocco, but crashed a bit this week with a nasty cold. Didn't miss out on much though since the weather's been poor anyway.
M - Last day of Morocco trip. See week 424
T - Nothing. Travel back from Morocco.
W - 6km run (fartlek - got to love that word)
T - Abortive session at TCA. Called it a day after about 40 minutes feeling generally crap.
F - Nothing. Ill
S - Nothing. Ill
S - Nothing. Ill
Withdrawal symptoms this week have given me cause to sit back and think a bit about where my climbing is and where I'm going.
In sport climbing I made rapid progress to 7b+ RP in autumn 2013, then a few 7c RPs in 2014. Onsighting I'd give myself slightly above even odds on 7a, with a good chance of flashing 7a+ with the right beta. Take me somewhere with easy to read routes and maybe I'd do better, but I'm only talking about UK lime here.
In bouldering, I'd expect to be able to do a lot of 6C problems, with the odd 6C+ or 7A if it suits me/is a bit soft. This has been the case for over a year now. I think I made some decent gains over the 2013/14 winter, but nothing significant since. This doesn't come as a surprise since that's the last time I really focussed on strength or bouldering.
I'm pretty sure I've been seeing slow but steady improvements in my trad year on year. I've made a decent start this year with a couple of E4 routes under my belt. I'd like to see this continue.
My analysis of this is that my trad has improved through gains in fitness, with contributions from technique and experience (I've been climbing for less than 5 years). Any improvement in sport climbing over the last year (1x7b+ in 2013; 5x7b+, 2x7c in 2014) has been largely due to tactics and patience.
From here, I think I'd see the best gains from an increase in strength. If anybody's read this far, I'd appreciate other opinions. Pushing into consistent 7A bouldering with the odd 7A+ or 7B would give me a lot more in hand on high 7/low 8 sport. I'm not really willing to focus on indoor bouldering over the summer but it will give me something to aim for come winter. In the meantime, keeping at least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over the summer seems like a modest goal that will help me at least not lose any strength I have!
Given my current levels, I think I can expect to collect a decent number of E4s if I keep my head, and would have a chance at a carefully chosen E5 (Wall of the Worlds (E5 6a)? something soft at Pembroke? not that I'm going to make E5 a goal this year). Sport-wise I still have that Brean progression in mind, and have my eye on a few routes in the 7b-7c range at Cheddar South. Currently more motivated by trad though.
Goals:
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 2; Clean onsight: 2
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Dedicate some time to this over winter
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
Muchly, Dan, great statting there! And yup, the project is creeping closer - no progress on it in absolute terms but I'm smoother, more confident and better at each move than ever and the An Cap reps are improving too.
Nick, I reckon that bouldering will really help boost your strength for those stopper hard moves on routes that your amassed fitness/endurance won't get you through.
Training Diary WC 27/04/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 3/3 /Project ‘Loop’
Monday – 5K run in 20:32 then fingerboard session. Assisted 1 armers (best yet, although with more rest between pairs): 2 sets of 6 all - 6.25kg with 1 min rest between pairs, 3 mins between sets. Set 1 = 2x10s proper 90’ locks, 2x7s, 2x5s sagging. Set 2 = 2x10s locks, 2x7s, 2 x 5s sagging. Hypergravity pull ups (+7.5KG) (best yet): 3 sets: 9, 9, 7. Offsets. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 2 one side, 1 min rest then 2 other side) - less leg waving. Interspersed with antagonistic bits and bobs to finish.
Tuesday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Perfect conditions. Made it as far as the span move at the start of (Ames Wol) three times but just ran out of juice – approx. 15 moves to go – felt solid with a good sequence. Finished the session with 4 An Cap reps: 3 down Ames Wol (13 moves plus each go) and finally a quick go at Ames Low (got to the span but melted off – 16 moves).
Wednesday – Rest – ill.
Thursday – Rest –ill.
Friday – Rest – ill; feeling much better.
Saturday – Park Run: 5K PB at 18:51. Proper stoked as was struggling to breathe a bit because of the tail end of a cold.
Sunday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Top holds on Ames High were wet so tried an ‘out and back’ on Ames Low and then Ames Wol. Did Ames Low once (2nd go) but didn’t complete Ames Wol (so 3 ‘redpoints’ with long rests in total). Switched to doing 10 An Cap reps; Set 1 = 3 x Ames Wol past gaston move! (fell out of slightly damp pocket once and got back on) then 1 of Ames Low to the span. Set 2; 4 goes on Ames Wol – got past the gaston move once or twice and got on again if fell off (twice I think). Short rest then one go at Wol then Low to finish – got halfway on both. All made harder by key damp pocket but progress overall especially down Wol – great to consolidate the sequence more too!
Weight = 72.7kg
Right then, goals:
STG (by July)
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power.
Tick some more 7A+s in a session.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness.
MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone.
Build a training wall in the loft.
Run an 18 min 5K.
Run a mile in 5 mins.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Muchly, Dan, great statting there! And yup, the project is creeping closer - no progress on it in absolute terms but I'm smoother, more confident and better at each move than ever and the An Cap reps are improving too.
Nick, I reckon that bouldering will really help boost your strength for those stopper hard moves on routes that your amassed fitness/endurance won't get you through.
Training Diary WC 27/04/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 3/3 /Project ‘Loop’
Monday – 5K run in 20:32 then fingerboard session. Assisted 1 armers (best yet, although with more rest between pairs): 2 sets of 6 all - 6.25kg with 1 min rest between pairs, 3 mins between sets. Set 1 = 2x10s proper 90’ locks, 2x7s, 2x5s sagging. Set 2 = 2x10s locks, 2x7s, 2 x 5s sagging. Hypergravity pull ups (+7.5KG) (best yet): 3 sets: 9, 9, 7. Offsets. Offset pull ups: 3 sets (1 set = 2 one side, 1 min rest then 2 other side) - less leg waving. Interspersed with antagonistic bits and bobs to finish.
Tuesday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Perfect conditions. Made it as far as the span move at the start of (Ames Wol) three times but just ran out of juice – approx. 15 moves to go – felt solid with a good sequence. Finished the session with 4 An Cap reps: 3 down Ames Wol (13 moves plus each go) and finally a quick go at Ames Low (got to the span but melted off – 16 moves).
Wednesday – Rest – ill.
Thursday – Rest –ill.
Friday – Rest – ill; feeling much better.
Saturday – Park Run: 5K PB at 18:51. Proper stoked as was struggling to breathe a bit because of the tail end of a cold.
Sunday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a) with Tom. Top holds on Ames High were wet so tried an ‘out and back’ on Ames Low and then Ames Wol. Did Ames Low once (2nd go) but didn’t complete Ames Wol (so 3 ‘redpoints’ with long rests in total). Switched to doing 10 An Cap reps; Set 1 = 3 x Ames Wol past gaston move! (fell out of slightly damp pocket once and got back on) then 1 of Ames Low to the span. Set 2; 4 goes on Ames Wol – got past the gaston move once or twice and got on again if fell off (twice I think). Short rest then one go at Wol then Low to finish – got halfway on both. All made harder by key damp pocket but progress overall especially down Wol – great to consolidate the sequence more too!
Weight = 72.7kg
Right then, goals:
STG (by July)
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power.
Tick some more 7A+s in a session.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness.
MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone.
Build a training wall in the loft.
Run an 18 min 5K.
Run a mile in 5 mins.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. The 7:3 stuff is aerocap so you get pretty boxed and so my fingers end up shifting round a bit and things and so several of those in a week was just sanding my fingers down especially when combined with the other stuff. Since I can't do super high intensity stuff I'm basically on a fairly high volume set of sessions instead.
Monday - long bike ride after work. Bit of a sapping headwind, and the promised sun only broke through when I got to the ferry home. Slower on the first climb into the wind but faster on the other two and cut down my break times a bit further as well.
Tuesday - cycle commute to and fro work plus wall. Social Boulder, feeling knackered. Finger feeling better than previously.
Wednesday - wall. Double continuity session, wide grip pullups.
Thursday - wall. Max distance offsets and rings(shoulder).
Friday - nothing
Saturday - wall. Very poor. Basically just had a bit of a sulk and did nothing.
Sunday - wall. Perked up a bit. Rings(core), tried the max doubles, sort of got them to work, ish. Bottom pullups. Then a 10:3 fingerboard when I got home on the new setup, think I've got the intensity nearer right this time.
Missed out on a whole bunch of fingerboard stuff. Was going to do a 7:3 today too but got sidetracked into house admin and I can't be bothered starting now. Would have been pretty close if I had done that earlier and hadn't sulked instead of climbing yesterday. Just feeling a bit depressed about slow finger healing and whether I'm doing it more harm than good struggling to stick with the volume on the training plan and so on and so forth. Feeling a bit better now.
Ride training this week felt ok. Planning a decent length one tomorrow, something midweek, then the big day on Sunday.
Cheers Dan. The 7:3 stuff is aerocap so you get pretty boxed and so my fingers end up shifting round a bit and things and so several of those in a week was just sanding my fingers down especially when combined with the other stuff. Since I can't do super high intensity stuff I'm basically on a fairly high volume set of sessions instead.
Monday - long bike ride after work. Bit of a sapping headwind, and the promised sun only broke through when I got to the ferry home. Slower on the first climb into the wind but faster on the other two and cut down my break times a bit further as well.
Tuesday - cycle commute to and fro work plus wall. Social Boulder, feeling knackered. Finger feeling better than previously.
Wednesday - wall. Double continuity session, wide grip pullups.
Thursday - wall. Max distance offsets and rings(shoulder).
Friday - nothing
Saturday - wall. Very poor. Basically just had a bit of a sulk and did nothing.
Sunday - wall. Perked up a bit. Rings(core), tried the max doubles, sort of got them to work, ish. Bottom pullups. Then a 10:3 fingerboard when I got home on the new setup, think I've got the intensity nearer right this time.
Missed out on a whole bunch of fingerboard stuff. Was going to do a 7:3 today too but got sidetracked into house admin and I can't be bothered starting now. Would have been pretty close if I had done that earlier and hadn't sulked instead of climbing yesterday. Just feeling a bit depressed about slow finger healing and whether I'm doing it more harm than good struggling to stick with the volume on the training plan and so on and so forth. Feeling a bit better now.
Ride training this week felt ok. Planning a decent length one tomorrow, something midweek, then the big day on Sunday.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Depends what you think you need to be stronger for, would be my initial thought. 6C with the occasional 7A sounds not that dissimilar to me before I went away on the road trip (and to be fair, from my Rocklands performance, still is).
You might benefit from being a bit stronger if you want to try a short 8a round Cheddar - I think I was probably too close to my bouldering limit really on Right Hand Man, I didn't have enough in reserve because even a half dozen not that bad moves killed my ability to link the (7A, I'm told) crux. So maybe for that I'd say yes go strong.
If you want to get onto longer sport stuff though, fitness might be your friend. If harder trad is your primary goal, I'd definitely say that fitness is more relevant.
In general though a fingerboard/bouldering maintenance session seems like a no-brainier. How do you feel about outdoor bouldering? You could go join Joyce up in the woods.....
Depends what you think you need to be stronger for, would be my initial thought. 6C with the occasional 7A sounds not that dissimilar to me before I went away on the road trip (and to be fair, from my Rocklands performance, still is).
You might benefit from being a bit stronger if you want to try a short 8a round Cheddar - I think I was probably too close to my bouldering limit really on Right Hand Man, I didn't have enough in reserve because even a half dozen not that bad moves killed my ability to link the (7A, I'm told) crux. So maybe for that I'd say yes go strong.
If you want to get onto longer sport stuff though, fitness might be your friend. If harder trad is your primary goal, I'd definitely say that fitness is more relevant.
In general though a fingerboard/bouldering maintenance session seems like a no-brainier. How do you feel about outdoor bouldering? You could go join Joyce up in the woods.....
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing this.
Having a quiet few weeks with regards climbing specific training (think the tendons could do with a few weeks off). Still doing actual climbing outside though.
M - 45 mins run.
T - Resting.
W - Climbing outside. After warm up had a few attempts on project; not too bad, can get to the 7th bolt, which is where crux begins (about 3m, then an easier 8m or so to the top - so just the crux needs to be sorted).
T - 40 mins run.
F - Resting
S - Outside climbing. Tried working crux for project for first time, mostly to see what I need to improve on. Although couldn't do the moves, they did seem do-able. Shame it's about 5 feet from an active bees nest.
Will try again once I've lost a bit of weight and improved general fitness.
S - 60 mins run.
Goals:
Stg (end May) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end June) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
Thanks for doing this.
Having a quiet few weeks with regards climbing specific training (think the tendons could do with a few weeks off). Still doing actual climbing outside though.
M - 45 mins run.
T - Resting.
W - Climbing outside. After warm up had a few attempts on project; not too bad, can get to the 7th bolt, which is where crux begins (about 3m, then an easier 8m or so to the top - so just the crux needs to be sorted).
T - 40 mins run.
F - Resting
S - Outside climbing. Tried working crux for project for first time, mostly to see what I need to improve on. Although couldn't do the moves, they did seem do-able. Shame it's about 5 feet from an active bees nest.
Will try again once I've lost a bit of weight and improved general fitness.
S - 60 mins run.
Goals:
Stg (end May) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end June) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan. We're into exam season with D2 now so I won't make it back to Portland for a while. Have a wkend booked for mid-June though.
M - cycle commute. S&C x 3
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR. Long circuits session ~15, up to 7a. Cycled home feeling pretty boxed.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes session. Dozen routes, mainly in pairs but with a few singles. Retried the 7c than coach had got me on, but felt much harder without him shouting up advice.
T - cycle commute.
F - TCA session pounding round the new 5+ to 6b circuit. Don't think there are very many at the lower end of the range, because a lot of these felt significantly hard. Several to go back to. S&C x 3 in evening.
S - long fingerboard session mainly on slopers. Apparently I shuld be aiming to be able to hang one handed off the BM1000 slopers! As this session was a bit squeezed in I did 7on/3off sets of 6, couple of min break, repeat, keep going for 3/4 hour. S&C x 3 in evening.
S - Bloc. Mid-length session ticking off blues (up to 6b+). Finished with 5 circuits including a 7a onsight. A bit weird - they have a new woody circuit using holds that one can being crimp/pinch or use a pocket in the middle. The crimp/pinch is given 6b+ and I couldn't quite do it (think I was crimping when pinching more might hav been better). But the 7a pocket version I sailed round. Maybe having smaller fingers helps, although most of the pockets were only 2 fingers even for me.
so a busy week but nothing outside.
Thanks Dan. We're into exam season with D2 now so I won't make it back to Portland for a while. Have a wkend booked for mid-June though.
M - cycle commute. S&C x 3
T - cycle commute. Cycle on to UCR. Long circuits session ~15, up to 7a. Cycled home feeling pretty boxed.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes session. Dozen routes, mainly in pairs but with a few singles. Retried the 7c than coach had got me on, but felt much harder without him shouting up advice.
T - cycle commute.
F - TCA session pounding round the new 5+ to 6b circuit. Don't think there are very many at the lower end of the range, because a lot of these felt significantly hard. Several to go back to. S&C x 3 in evening.
S - long fingerboard session mainly on slopers. Apparently I shuld be aiming to be able to hang one handed off the BM1000 slopers! As this session was a bit squeezed in I did 7on/3off sets of 6, couple of min break, repeat, keep going for 3/4 hour. S&C x 3 in evening.
S - Bloc. Mid-length session ticking off blues (up to 6b+). Finished with 5 circuits including a 7a onsight. A bit weird - they have a new woody circuit using holds that one can being crimp/pinch or use a pocket in the middle. The crimp/pinch is given 6b+ and I couldn't quite do it (think I was crimping when pinching more might hav been better). But the 7a pocket version I sailed round. Maybe having smaller fingers helps, although most of the pockets were only 2 fingers even for me.
so a busy week but nothing outside.
Post edited at 08:18
In reply to hms:
Is that the weekend we spoke about? If so we will try and pop over to say hi at some stage. If you've not sorted any accommodation then you're welcome to stay here...
Is that the weekend we spoke about? If so we will try and pop over to say hi at some stage. If you've not sorted any accommodation then you're welcome to stay here...
In reply to Dandan:
Good week on climbing front
M: Planned rest
T: Went to Outhouse, now got four benchmark problems to work on. At least one move on each I can't do. Fingers felt very worked.
W: BoulderUK
T: Stockport, 10 tie ins. Fingers pretty swollen after three days on
F: Rest
S: Malham, three TR goes on SYT. tried the first moves and found a method. Fingers sore
S: Rest
Good week on climbing front
M: Planned rest
T: Went to Outhouse, now got four benchmark problems to work on. At least one move on each I can't do. Fingers felt very worked.
W: BoulderUK
T: Stockport, 10 tie ins. Fingers pretty swollen after three days on
F: Rest
S: Malham, three TR goes on SYT. tried the first moves and found a method. Fingers sore
S: Rest
In reply to AJM:
yes as it's the only weekend around then that I've got free. So far Curious Yellow and I have only got to the 'mark it on the calendar' stage so no accommodation booked yet. I think I've got the theory for HoM sorted - I can close my eyes & think through every hand & foot move - but I could do that on Chulilla as well and it still took a lot of goes to do it for real. So suspect I'll also be pestering you late July/August too!
yes as it's the only weekend around then that I've got free. So far Curious Yellow and I have only got to the 'mark it on the calendar' stage so no accommodation booked yet. I think I've got the theory for HoM sorted - I can close my eyes & think through every hand & foot move - but I could do that on Chulilla as well and it still took a lot of goes to do it for real. So suspect I'll also be pestering you late July/August too!
In reply to Dandan: Not the best week due to work which included 3 days in Scotland.
M - work
T - work (a few offset pull-ups in the evening)
W - work & 9hr drive
T - Boulder - short session after working locally, not very structured.
F - work & evening drinks
S - rest day
S - Boulder - long but fairly unstructured afternoon session.
However on the positive side, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the front lever progressions I added into my strength and core training a month or two ago seem to be working. I am not quite there but a solid front lever is now looking achievable this summer.
Finally, and most importantly, I am free to climb tomorrow (Tuesday) and Wednesday. Is anyone around the South or SW?
I would obviously prefer sport but given the forecast a decent indoor session would be much better than nothing.
M - work
T - work (a few offset pull-ups in the evening)
W - work & 9hr drive
T - Boulder - short session after working locally, not very structured.
F - work & evening drinks
S - rest day
S - Boulder - long but fairly unstructured afternoon session.
However on the positive side, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the front lever progressions I added into my strength and core training a month or two ago seem to be working. I am not quite there but a solid front lever is now looking achievable this summer.
Finally, and most importantly, I am free to climb tomorrow (Tuesday) and Wednesday. Is anyone around the South or SW?
I would obviously prefer sport but given the forecast a decent indoor session would be much better than nothing.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
When my elbows got really bad i did all the re-hab/pre-hab and changed my climbing style. Changing my style was very effective and beneficial to grades as well. However i found the biggest change came about by changing day to day things. Belaying - make sure you have your brake arm straight. Keeping it bent with tension running through the elbow = grumbly elbows but we can do it for ages without thinking about it. I changed my driving position and became left handed for a while for opening doors, picking things up and such like. That was the final key that cracked it in the end i think.
I needed that week off it turns out. Whilst i have been active with a bit of running, some fingerboarding ( shock horror!) lots of stretching and rolling i've essentially checked out of the real world for a while and just chilled - and done DIY ;-(
Yesterday was the first day i actually felt rested and fully awake. We were out running and i kept on zooming off ahead just enjoying the feeling of running and wanting to do more. It's been a while since i had that.
The best run was through the Coed y Brenin forest park. Lovely trails and did a 5.5 mile route with 100m of ascent in just over 45mins. I'm not used to running a set distance/pacing etc anymore and whilst i was trying to run with a decent tempo i came back with plenty in the tank. Just a lovely run.
I've got some very brief fingerboard sessions in this week. I just needed to get over the laziness and start the habit. Pathetic so far, but it can only get better.
Back climbing on Wed after work i hope. I've also found a nice crag nearby for bouldering/trad/top roping so looking forward to snatching a few evenings there.
I feel nicely psyched and itching to climb, but can't take my eye off the Lakeland 50 in July.
Cheers Dan.
When my elbows got really bad i did all the re-hab/pre-hab and changed my climbing style. Changing my style was very effective and beneficial to grades as well. However i found the biggest change came about by changing day to day things. Belaying - make sure you have your brake arm straight. Keeping it bent with tension running through the elbow = grumbly elbows but we can do it for ages without thinking about it. I changed my driving position and became left handed for a while for opening doors, picking things up and such like. That was the final key that cracked it in the end i think.
I needed that week off it turns out. Whilst i have been active with a bit of running, some fingerboarding ( shock horror!) lots of stretching and rolling i've essentially checked out of the real world for a while and just chilled - and done DIY ;-(
Yesterday was the first day i actually felt rested and fully awake. We were out running and i kept on zooming off ahead just enjoying the feeling of running and wanting to do more. It's been a while since i had that.
The best run was through the Coed y Brenin forest park. Lovely trails and did a 5.5 mile route with 100m of ascent in just over 45mins. I'm not used to running a set distance/pacing etc anymore and whilst i was trying to run with a decent tempo i came back with plenty in the tank. Just a lovely run.
I've got some very brief fingerboard sessions in this week. I just needed to get over the laziness and start the habit. Pathetic so far, but it can only get better.
Back climbing on Wed after work i hope. I've also found a nice crag nearby for bouldering/trad/top roping so looking forward to snatching a few evenings there.
I feel nicely psyched and itching to climb, but can't take my eye off the Lakeland 50 in July.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the considered response. The caveat with my bouldering grades is that they are all based on TCA indoor bouldering. I don't go outdoors frequently enough to have a good benchmark, but I did pick off a (very) soft 7A last year.
Thanks for the considered response. The caveat with my bouldering grades is that they are all based on TCA indoor bouldering. I don't go outdoors frequently enough to have a good benchmark, but I did pick off a (very) soft 7A last year.
> Depends what you think you need to be stronger for
It's not so much that I think I need to be stronger for a specific goal. It's more that I think that most of my gains over the last 12-18 months have been from endurance and tactics. If that is the case, I can expect this to begin to dry up and I'll need new impetus to continue to improve.> If harder trad is your primary goal, I'd definitely say that fitness is more relevant.
But I still feel like many E4s would feel easier if I'm not so close to my (onsight) limit on hard tech 6a. At the moment I think my chance of onsighting a tech 6b crux is very slim.> In general though a fingerboard/bouldering maintenance session seems like a no-brainier.
^^ When you put it like that...> You could go join Joyce up in the woods.....
This seems like a great idea! In reply to Joyce:
That's what I'd hope... Either way, sounds like you're still into Huntsham, maybe I can join you there one evening/weekend?
> Nick, I reckon that bouldering will really help boost your strength for those stopper hard moves on routes that your amassed fitness/endurance won't get you through.
That's what I'd hope... Either way, sounds like you're still into Huntsham, maybe I can join you there one evening/weekend?
In reply to Dandan: Cheers Dan!
M: Rest
T: Llanymynech - Back on Nomad Wall, had a no warm up redpoint putting the clips in on "Nomad" (7a+) felt pretty good and made it through the top crux and got flashed pumped into oblivion on the final couple of moves to easy ground, took a good whipper.
Thought I'd ruined the session getting so boxed but had another go, got 1/3 of the way up the wall and got into this really good mind state I don't think I've been in before on a route, felt really relaxed, confident and happy. This helped me not over grip and climb really fluidly/dynamic, and got me to the chains with no pump! Really surprised and happy.
W: Llanymynech - Back on Nomad Wall, had a no warm up onsight attempt on "The Screaming Skull" (7b). Got half way through the midheight crux and went for a non-hold which was about an inch left of a good edge, another massive whipper. I didn't get pumped either so wasn't too annoyed. Climbed the rest of it and worked out better beta for crux.
Had a fading light redpoint and stupidly forgot my headtorch, did the crux easy and pulled up some slack to clip and realised I forgot to extend the draw I had planned to extend, punter! Dropped the rope and carried on going and got pumped trying to figure out where to clip from and fell off. Got back on, climbed to the top and did the top 15m on top rope in the dark about 5 times without rest as punishment training.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Forced rest due to the weather, had planned to go out, couldn't face training at home and re-planned to get out on Sunday.
S: Woke up to rubbish weather despite better forecast. Managed to get out later and went back to Llanymynech. The Screaming Skull was wet so got on "Strawberry Tubin" (7b). Was pretty wet but managed to onsight all the moves going bolt to bolt and drying it as I went. Got it wired and pulled the rope for a redpoint and it threw it down and soaked the route. Demoralising wet clipstick ascent to get the clips out.
Did 35 mins Aerocap when I got home while being annoyed at the weather.
Stamina is improving and feeling a lot fitter this week. Although I didn't tick the 2 7b's due to lack of light/weather I'm confident they should go next session.
Goal is still fitness for Diamond (August) / Ceuse (September)
M: Rest
T: Llanymynech - Back on Nomad Wall, had a no warm up redpoint putting the clips in on "Nomad" (7a+) felt pretty good and made it through the top crux and got flashed pumped into oblivion on the final couple of moves to easy ground, took a good whipper.
Thought I'd ruined the session getting so boxed but had another go, got 1/3 of the way up the wall and got into this really good mind state I don't think I've been in before on a route, felt really relaxed, confident and happy. This helped me not over grip and climb really fluidly/dynamic, and got me to the chains with no pump! Really surprised and happy.
W: Llanymynech - Back on Nomad Wall, had a no warm up onsight attempt on "The Screaming Skull" (7b). Got half way through the midheight crux and went for a non-hold which was about an inch left of a good edge, another massive whipper. I didn't get pumped either so wasn't too annoyed. Climbed the rest of it and worked out better beta for crux.
Had a fading light redpoint and stupidly forgot my headtorch, did the crux easy and pulled up some slack to clip and realised I forgot to extend the draw I had planned to extend, punter! Dropped the rope and carried on going and got pumped trying to figure out where to clip from and fell off. Got back on, climbed to the top and did the top 15m on top rope in the dark about 5 times without rest as punishment training.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Forced rest due to the weather, had planned to go out, couldn't face training at home and re-planned to get out on Sunday.
S: Woke up to rubbish weather despite better forecast. Managed to get out later and went back to Llanymynech. The Screaming Skull was wet so got on "Strawberry Tubin" (7b). Was pretty wet but managed to onsight all the moves going bolt to bolt and drying it as I went. Got it wired and pulled the rope for a redpoint and it threw it down and soaked the route. Demoralising wet clipstick ascent to get the clips out.
Did 35 mins Aerocap when I got home while being annoyed at the weather.
Stamina is improving and feeling a lot fitter this week. Although I didn't tick the 2 7b's due to lack of light/weather I'm confident they should go next session.
Goal is still fitness for Diamond (August) / Ceuse (September)
In reply to Nick Russell:
Only you know the answer, but when you fail on trad routes did you fail because you faffed for too long and got pumped or because you fell off a move whilst relatively fresh? Usually I get stuck, faff, get pumped, and then fall off. And certainly of the routes you listed Mother Africa and Wall of the Worlds are going to be as pumpy as sin!
In general though maintenance of the things you're not currently prioritising can only be a good thing. And you'll like the Slug...
Only you know the answer, but when you fail on trad routes did you fail because you faffed for too long and got pumped or because you fell off a move whilst relatively fresh? Usually I get stuck, faff, get pumped, and then fall off. And certainly of the routes you listed Mother Africa and Wall of the Worlds are going to be as pumpy as sin!
In general though maintenance of the things you're not currently prioritising can only be a good thing. And you'll like the Slug...
In reply to AJM:
There's normally an element of both of course, but probably more of the faffing/getting pumped. If I encounter a move that looks/feels hard, I'll try to figure it out, rather than just throwing myself at it the first way that comes to mind. Some of this is sensible tactics; some of it excessive faff. More endurance would help either way. It's good to have another perspective: I don't normally put myself in the 'over-strong, needs more endurance' camp but you're making a reasonable case.
> Only you know the answer, but when you fail on trad routes did you fail because you faffed for too long and got pumped or because you fell off a move whilst relatively fresh?
There's normally an element of both of course, but probably more of the faffing/getting pumped. If I encounter a move that looks/feels hard, I'll try to figure it out, rather than just throwing myself at it the first way that comes to mind. Some of this is sensible tactics; some of it excessive faff. More endurance would help either way. It's good to have another perspective: I don't normally put myself in the 'over-strong, needs more endurance' camp but you're making a reasonable case.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. No, I haven't had a medical check. It seemed likely to me that it was a rib/rib muscle thing, the symptoms being so similar to when I thumped a rib after falling down the same set of stairs a few years ago, that there seemed little point in doing so. nickinscottishmountains also revealed himself as an A&E doctor and said some very plausible sounding things pointing to it being, as I had thought, an intercostal strain.
Anyway, it still bloody hurts if I take a deep involuntary breath (Well stop doing that!, says my wife), but is getting better now, two weeks and a day on.
After a week and bit of nothing , I resolved to start again, despite that I didn't think my recent routine of a 9 mile run to my lift after work would be possible yet. I decided instead to walk fast to my lift (=my wife! In doing this I cut down her journey time, so it helps her too.) @>4 mph, 100ft/mile for a few miles, and did this for a couple of days, before finding on the third that I broke into a run, albeit with a weird, shuffly, gliding kind of style in which I tried not to bounce up and down too much.
M -
T - walk, 4 miles/400 ft @ 13:46
W - walk, 5 miles/750ft @ 14:15 over Carn Brae
T - walk/run 6 miles/800ft @12:01 over Carn Brae - last two miles running @ 8:30 ish.
F - 2.9 mile run to work @ 8:05 - running the whole way!, pm 5 miles run to lift over Carn Brae, @ 8:59
S - 7.3 miles hilly for first few miles and at the end, and a flat bit in the middle, where I pushed up to sub 6:40 ish pace over a 0.9 mile Strava segment for which I somehow seem to be 6/116. But two old fogeys are ahead of me. When I can fully expand my chest, I'll have them.
S - nothing - driving miles to a wedding, then wedding all day, then Dad dancing, cancelled out by the booze and the food.
S - 3 miles back to the wedding place to get the car. And I may go out again soon.
On the BGR front, am going up to the lakes later in May to walk the whole thing in 3 days with my wife, and may have a shot at running it on the 4th day if that seems sensible. I mean, we'll have have come all that way!
Classic Quarter in June beckons, so I'd like to get in a long run or two before then.
Cheers Dan. No, I haven't had a medical check. It seemed likely to me that it was a rib/rib muscle thing, the symptoms being so similar to when I thumped a rib after falling down the same set of stairs a few years ago, that there seemed little point in doing so. nickinscottishmountains also revealed himself as an A&E doctor and said some very plausible sounding things pointing to it being, as I had thought, an intercostal strain.
Anyway, it still bloody hurts if I take a deep involuntary breath (Well stop doing that!, says my wife), but is getting better now, two weeks and a day on.
After a week and bit of nothing , I resolved to start again, despite that I didn't think my recent routine of a 9 mile run to my lift after work would be possible yet. I decided instead to walk fast to my lift (=my wife! In doing this I cut down her journey time, so it helps her too.) @>4 mph, 100ft/mile for a few miles, and did this for a couple of days, before finding on the third that I broke into a run, albeit with a weird, shuffly, gliding kind of style in which I tried not to bounce up and down too much.
M -
T - walk, 4 miles/400 ft @ 13:46
W - walk, 5 miles/750ft @ 14:15 over Carn Brae
T - walk/run 6 miles/800ft @12:01 over Carn Brae - last two miles running @ 8:30 ish.
F - 2.9 mile run to work @ 8:05 - running the whole way!, pm 5 miles run to lift over Carn Brae, @ 8:59
S - 7.3 miles hilly for first few miles and at the end, and a flat bit in the middle, where I pushed up to sub 6:40 ish pace over a 0.9 mile Strava segment for which I somehow seem to be 6/116. But two old fogeys are ahead of me. When I can fully expand my chest, I'll have them.
S - nothing - driving miles to a wedding, then wedding all day, then Dad dancing, cancelled out by the booze and the food.
S - 3 miles back to the wedding place to get the car. And I may go out again soon.
On the BGR front, am going up to the lakes later in May to walk the whole thing in 3 days with my wife, and may have a shot at running it on the 4th day if that seems sensible. I mean, we'll have have come all that way!
Classic Quarter in June beckons, so I'd like to get in a long run or two before then.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for doing FC again Dan mixed week this week:
M: am - 40mins steady 5/6M, pm - 8M steady in 53:45
Tu: am - jog to work 15min, lunchtime - road session: 6,5,4,3,2,1 off 1/2 rep recovery jog. Was told to do this at 80% and did so feeling great and moving well, pm - 4/5M in 31:10
W: am - jog to work 15min, pm - run home 7M in 49:48, felt terrible, legs dead
Th: am - run to work 4/5m in 31:42, pm - run home 4/5M in 32:53 still felt rubbish
F: am - jog to work 15min, pm - jog home 15min + strides, finally feeling a bit better
Sa: am - 15min jog + strides
Su: am - GEAR 10K (King's Lynn). Drove up early in ever increasing wind and rain which meant the chances of a PB were slim at best. Then got held on the start line for 10mins as the race got held up which meant we were frezing as it was bucketing down with rain and windy. Was so cold when it started it took almost 2K to get going properly by which time two guys were already ahead. managed to chase down the guy in 2nd and go past after 4K but the leader (and winner) was gone. From there it was just a case of trying to stay focused and make sure no-one came back to me. Finished 2nd in 31:43 around 50 seconds behind the winner and 40 ahead of 3rd. From a PB point of view the damage was already done by 2K which I went through in around 6:26. So......... disappointing not to run a PB but it was still the third fastest I've run 10K and to be only 20 seconds slower than my PB in those conditions was not bad. Overall though I think I've been fit enough to go close to sub 31 over the winter, just haven't had the right opportunity on the right day. So it'll have to wait until the Autumn now as its now time to get on the track and see if my legs can go fast.
Total for the week 60M.
Cheers for doing FC again Dan mixed week this week:
M: am - 40mins steady 5/6M, pm - 8M steady in 53:45
Tu: am - jog to work 15min, lunchtime - road session: 6,5,4,3,2,1 off 1/2 rep recovery jog. Was told to do this at 80% and did so feeling great and moving well, pm - 4/5M in 31:10
W: am - jog to work 15min, pm - run home 7M in 49:48, felt terrible, legs dead
Th: am - run to work 4/5m in 31:42, pm - run home 4/5M in 32:53 still felt rubbish
F: am - jog to work 15min, pm - jog home 15min + strides, finally feeling a bit better
Sa: am - 15min jog + strides
Su: am - GEAR 10K (King's Lynn). Drove up early in ever increasing wind and rain which meant the chances of a PB were slim at best. Then got held on the start line for 10mins as the race got held up which meant we were frezing as it was bucketing down with rain and windy. Was so cold when it started it took almost 2K to get going properly by which time two guys were already ahead. managed to chase down the guy in 2nd and go past after 4K but the leader (and winner) was gone. From there it was just a case of trying to stay focused and make sure no-one came back to me. Finished 2nd in 31:43 around 50 seconds behind the winner and 40 ahead of 3rd. From a PB point of view the damage was already done by 2K which I went through in around 6:26. So......... disappointing not to run a PB but it was still the third fastest I've run 10K and to be only 20 seconds slower than my PB in those conditions was not bad. Overall though I think I've been fit enough to go close to sub 31 over the winter, just haven't had the right opportunity on the right day. So it'll have to wait until the Autumn now as its now time to get on the track and see if my legs can go fast.
Total for the week 60M.
In reply to AJM:
Yeah, he probably knows his stuff. It's probably good news really, because I'm more naturally inclined to endurance than strength so the longer I can milk gains there, the better... I'll reply to your e-mail, but I most likely won't be joining you in the Red this year.
Yeah, he probably knows his stuff. It's probably good news really, because I'm more naturally inclined to endurance than strength so the longer I can milk gains there, the better... I'll reply to your e-mail, but I most likely won't be joining you in the Red this year.
In reply to Dandan: Thanks fella - hope you've enjoyed the bank hols.
STG - Salbit Sudgrat. (Need to start some cardio)
MTG - Climb some lime in Spain. (Need to climb better)
LTG - Salbit West Ridge.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Big Rock. Chucked myself at the V4-6 circuit and one problem in particular, that works some weaknesses and seems relevant to limestone. Did lots of V0/1 when resting. Worked a sequence out for the first five hand movements and nailed it to there once but faded rapidly after that. Great session.
Wed - Pinnacle. Ropes. Did various amounts of laps on stuff from 5+ to 6b. Tired.
Thu - Yoga. Rolled the hell out of my legs.
Fri - Messed about on the fingerboard, mostly pullups and lock offs. Felt stronger.
Sat - Anston Stones. First time there and loved it, will definitely go back. Worked stuff up to 7A. In the evening went to Broomgrove wall in Shef with Dave T - proper crimpy there! Didn't stay long but nice to see what others train on.
Sun - Run/walked along Stanage Edge, there and back from North Lees campsite. Plenty of people bouldering around 4pm but I was too knackered to walk back up.
A really good week. Only three climbing sessions but made them all count. Also nice to get running again, even if it was a pretty poor effort by anyone's standards. Tons of stretching and rolling every day this week too... it's made a big difference.
STG - Salbit Sudgrat. (Need to start some cardio)
MTG - Climb some lime in Spain. (Need to climb better)
LTG - Salbit West Ridge.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Big Rock. Chucked myself at the V4-6 circuit and one problem in particular, that works some weaknesses and seems relevant to limestone. Did lots of V0/1 when resting. Worked a sequence out for the first five hand movements and nailed it to there once but faded rapidly after that. Great session.
Wed - Pinnacle. Ropes. Did various amounts of laps on stuff from 5+ to 6b. Tired.
Thu - Yoga. Rolled the hell out of my legs.
Fri - Messed about on the fingerboard, mostly pullups and lock offs. Felt stronger.
Sat - Anston Stones. First time there and loved it, will definitely go back. Worked stuff up to 7A. In the evening went to Broomgrove wall in Shef with Dave T - proper crimpy there! Didn't stay long but nice to see what others train on.
Sun - Run/walked along Stanage Edge, there and back from North Lees campsite. Plenty of people bouldering around 4pm but I was too knackered to walk back up.
A really good week. Only three climbing sessions but made them all count. Also nice to get running again, even if it was a pretty poor effort by anyone's standards. Tons of stretching and rolling every day this week too... it's made a big difference.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (same)
M - DIY
T - DIY
W - Funeral
T - Last day at work
F - Rest
S - DIY
S - 37 miles MTB ride 1800m of ascent, Dyfi Enduro
Bit of an odd week. Again poor from a fitness/training perspective. To be honest, I'm just trying to keep the weight the same while a load of 'life stuff' goes on. Hopefully once the current wodge of big DIY jobs are done, I'll be able to get out climbing again. It's my birthday next week, I suspect my treat to myself will be a trip to the local wall. Had a family funeral and started a new job, that was the 'life stuff' basically. Also I finished the decking and the pergola, which was nice. So I hope that's a lot of brownie points stored up.
The Dyfi was good fun on Sunday tho. Not sure I've ever done 37 miles on a bike, let alone on an MTB. Lots of long slow climbs followed by some fairly tough descents. However I was happy with 5h 35mins. I kept a very steady pace and basically didn't stop at all. Got my clothing spot on as well, unlike most of the rest of the field who kept stopping to change jackets. Had a nasty crash after the feed station and my right leg is a mess of scabs now. Lost my rear wheel on a wet rock and just went down. I've been meaning to do it for at least the last 10 years, so happy to have done it now.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (same)
M - DIY
T - DIY
W - Funeral
T - Last day at work
F - Rest
S - DIY
S - 37 miles MTB ride 1800m of ascent, Dyfi Enduro
Bit of an odd week. Again poor from a fitness/training perspective. To be honest, I'm just trying to keep the weight the same while a load of 'life stuff' goes on. Hopefully once the current wodge of big DIY jobs are done, I'll be able to get out climbing again. It's my birthday next week, I suspect my treat to myself will be a trip to the local wall. Had a family funeral and started a new job, that was the 'life stuff' basically. Also I finished the decking and the pergola, which was nice. So I hope that's a lot of brownie points stored up.
The Dyfi was good fun on Sunday tho. Not sure I've ever done 37 miles on a bike, let alone on an MTB. Lots of long slow climbs followed by some fairly tough descents. However I was happy with 5h 35mins. I kept a very steady pace and basically didn't stop at all. Got my clothing spot on as well, unlike most of the rest of the field who kept stopping to change jackets. Had a nasty crash after the feed station and my right leg is a mess of scabs now. Lost my rear wheel on a wet rock and just went down. I've been meaning to do it for at least the last 10 years, so happy to have done it now.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Yep - read it through - my thoughts:
- Your current Font 6C strength could get you up an awful lot of continental f8a's but you're likely to come up short on many UK routes in that grade range.
- Being 7A strong would be a good starting place for UK 8a's, and 7B strength would open up the vast majority (hardest Tor 2 bolt 8a's are 7B+'ish).
- There are exceptions in the UK and i'm happy to point out 8a's that have got nothing harder than V3 on, but long term progression is going to an improvement in both absolute strength (max Font grade) and an increase in an-cap (the font grade you can pull off whilst pumped).
- Trad makes you weak (perfectly normal adaptation of the body to aerobic stimuli is to lower an-cap and max power)
How to get stronger over the summer without indoor bouldering?
- Finger-boarding! if you've got the psyche, a pre-work fingerboard session is a great method to add in an extra max strength session to the training week. Has the added bonus of giving you time in the evening to go out ledge shuffling.
- Sport - choose some fierce short sport objectives instead of stamina plods. Bristol/SW has plenty to choose from. Mail me for suggestions if you can't think of any.
- Trad - avoid the Avon gorge ledge shuffling style and actually pull hard! (Think Upper Wall for evening sessions?)
- Outdoor bouldering - get the connoisseurs choice micro routes/boulder problems wired - great for finger strength and precision footwork.
Yep - read it through - my thoughts:
- Your current Font 6C strength could get you up an awful lot of continental f8a's but you're likely to come up short on many UK routes in that grade range.
- Being 7A strong would be a good starting place for UK 8a's, and 7B strength would open up the vast majority (hardest Tor 2 bolt 8a's are 7B+'ish).
- There are exceptions in the UK and i'm happy to point out 8a's that have got nothing harder than V3 on, but long term progression is going to an improvement in both absolute strength (max Font grade) and an increase in an-cap (the font grade you can pull off whilst pumped).
- Trad makes you weak (perfectly normal adaptation of the body to aerobic stimuli is to lower an-cap and max power)
How to get stronger over the summer without indoor bouldering?
- Finger-boarding! if you've got the psyche, a pre-work fingerboard session is a great method to add in an extra max strength session to the training week. Has the added bonus of giving you time in the evening to go out ledge shuffling.
- Sport - choose some fierce short sport objectives instead of stamina plods. Bristol/SW has plenty to choose from. Mail me for suggestions if you can't think of any.
- Trad - avoid the Avon gorge ledge shuffling style and actually pull hard! (Think Upper Wall for evening sessions?)
- Outdoor bouldering - get the connoisseurs choice micro routes/boulder problems wired - great for finger strength and precision footwork.
In reply to Dandan:
Which Shelby do you want to hear more about? The racy number with the potty mouth, or the V8 Ford?
RRG came up trumps on the final day and the head-cold is just about receeding now. However, I beat myself up on Sunday MTB’ing and now need a few days R&R.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Well Done finish
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the whiplash.
- Survive the Jurassic Beast.
Last week:
M - Lazy day visiting Woodford Reserve bourbon distillery, then working.
T - Mother-frickin’-lode! The classic steep RRG crag. Still snotty on the 12a/b warm-up and heart racing, wasn’t sure whether it was the cold or that mornings coffee? Got some incomplete beta and had a really good go at flashing the madness cave classic - BOHICA, 13b (bend over, here it comes again!). Came up just short of a massive jug, 1 clip below the chains. Super fun RP and took the victory whip – 40ft into thin air. Then tried to complete unfinished business from last year – Stain, 12c. Fluffed the amnesia flash, 2nd go RP wasn’t a formality either, and neither was the 12b (not really a) warm-down. Travelled to Houston.
W - Presentation was well received and had lots of productive discussions about working in Houston. 3 rounds S&C back at the hotel.
T - City tour of Houston after work; no exercise, still snotty.
F - 32 hour long Friday courtesy of time zone changes, but still no exercise!
S - Bleary eyed with jet lag – managed to leave the house at 1pm and pootle down to the cave. Did biggest links yet on Broken Trigger (8A) and managed to repeat Hatch Life (low – 7C+). Just about stayed awake for drive home. 13hrs sleep.
S - After 1.5hrs of sprocket wrangling, 1 workable MTB emerged from 2 bikes and 3 wheelsets and I set off for Llandegla. Slowest loop of the black for quite a few years, with an off trail detour that finished with a 8ft high somersault over the handlebars and head-first landing. Think I’ve got whiplash…
M - Very slow start; pounding headache. Malham. Decided not to join the queue on Zoolook and tried Straightened instead; stout for 8a. Struggling to put more than a few moves together. Stiffened up something rotten this morning.
Which Shelby do you want to hear more about? The racy number with the potty mouth, or the V8 Ford?
RRG came up trumps on the final day and the head-cold is just about receeding now. However, I beat myself up on Sunday MTB’ing and now need a few days R&R.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Well Done finish
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the whiplash.
- Survive the Jurassic Beast.
Last week:
M - Lazy day visiting Woodford Reserve bourbon distillery, then working.
T - Mother-frickin’-lode! The classic steep RRG crag. Still snotty on the 12a/b warm-up and heart racing, wasn’t sure whether it was the cold or that mornings coffee? Got some incomplete beta and had a really good go at flashing the madness cave classic - BOHICA, 13b (bend over, here it comes again!). Came up just short of a massive jug, 1 clip below the chains. Super fun RP and took the victory whip – 40ft into thin air. Then tried to complete unfinished business from last year – Stain, 12c. Fluffed the amnesia flash, 2nd go RP wasn’t a formality either, and neither was the 12b (not really a) warm-down. Travelled to Houston.
W - Presentation was well received and had lots of productive discussions about working in Houston. 3 rounds S&C back at the hotel.
T - City tour of Houston after work; no exercise, still snotty.
F - 32 hour long Friday courtesy of time zone changes, but still no exercise!
S - Bleary eyed with jet lag – managed to leave the house at 1pm and pootle down to the cave. Did biggest links yet on Broken Trigger (8A) and managed to repeat Hatch Life (low – 7C+). Just about stayed awake for drive home. 13hrs sleep.
S - After 1.5hrs of sprocket wrangling, 1 workable MTB emerged from 2 bikes and 3 wheelsets and I set off for Llandegla. Slowest loop of the black for quite a few years, with an off trail detour that finished with a 8ft high somersault over the handlebars and head-first landing. Think I’ve got whiplash…
M - Very slow start; pounding headache. Malham. Decided not to join the queue on Zoolook and tried Straightened instead; stout for 8a. Struggling to put more than a few moves together. Stiffened up something rotten this morning.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan. Slowly getting back to it, though this week has had hangover from the cyclesportive organisation (my god it takes forever to put up and take down arrows) and the discovery of mice in the tool cupboard in my Peak sanctuary…mice that eat chainsaw oil and nikwax in preference to cardboard and dusters…?! Seriously?
M – Lead Brookes to 6c+
T - rest
W – Lead Brookes to 6c
T - rest
F – Stamina boulder Climbing Unit.
S – lead Froggatt. 3 warm ups then the heavens opened…
S – lead/boulder Wirksworth to 6c+ and v4
Thanks Dandan. Slowly getting back to it, though this week has had hangover from the cyclesportive organisation (my god it takes forever to put up and take down arrows) and the discovery of mice in the tool cupboard in my Peak sanctuary…mice that eat chainsaw oil and nikwax in preference to cardboard and dusters…?! Seriously?
M – Lead Brookes to 6c+
T - rest
W – Lead Brookes to 6c
T - rest
F – Stamina boulder Climbing Unit.
S – lead Froggatt. 3 warm ups then the heavens opened…
S – lead/boulder Wirksworth to 6c+ and v4
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks again Dandan!
Feels like it's been another lazy week but on the upside I think I've given plenty of effort when I've been climbing.
Mon - 5 mile bike ride with daughter (not sure these belong here as they're so chilled - but better than the sofa?)
Tues - 3 mile run, hills, woods and bluebells!
Weds - 3.5 mile run
Thurs - 2 mile run, tried to beat PB up a decent hill so short but felt worthy.
Fri - 2 mile run, 4 hrs at wall, some climbing right at my limit, some leading right at the edge of what I manage - included a sweaty armpit clamp over a volume which I felt was inventive.... Also some chilling too so time a bit hard to really tell. I pushed myself quite hard psychologically over stuff I won't share as you'd all laugh! 5 mile bike ride with daughter after school.
Sat - 1.5 hrs bouldering while daughter was in kids club.
Sun - 2 hrs bouldering at Depot. Didn't really know anyone so worked really hard, lots of overhnging stuff and got 2 problems that had seemed really hard last week, one seemed dead easy (real DOH! moment) the other one still hard but came sweet with some practice. Made progress with no handed stuff managing the 'ickle purple on the slab with no palming (finally!), almost got the green which is easier than purple with palming but I find harder without - kept touching the wall with my hands!
Thanks again Dandan!
Feels like it's been another lazy week but on the upside I think I've given plenty of effort when I've been climbing.
Mon - 5 mile bike ride with daughter (not sure these belong here as they're so chilled - but better than the sofa?)
Tues - 3 mile run, hills, woods and bluebells!
Weds - 3.5 mile run
Thurs - 2 mile run, tried to beat PB up a decent hill so short but felt worthy.
Fri - 2 mile run, 4 hrs at wall, some climbing right at my limit, some leading right at the edge of what I manage - included a sweaty armpit clamp over a volume which I felt was inventive.... Also some chilling too so time a bit hard to really tell. I pushed myself quite hard psychologically over stuff I won't share as you'd all laugh! 5 mile bike ride with daughter after school.
Sat - 1.5 hrs bouldering while daughter was in kids club.
Sun - 2 hrs bouldering at Depot. Didn't really know anyone so worked really hard, lots of overhnging stuff and got 2 problems that had seemed really hard last week, one seemed dead easy (real DOH! moment) the other one still hard but came sweet with some practice. Made progress with no handed stuff managing the 'ickle purple on the slab with no palming (finally!), almost got the green which is easier than purple with palming but I find harder without - kept touching the wall with my hands!
In reply to Dandan:
Update...
Finally got a clinic appointment for my hand - 26th May at Stepping Hill. Obviously this isn't ideal so I've contacted the specialist unit at Derby to see if they'll do me a private appointment. Failing that at least we appear to be making some progress even if it is a bit glacial.
Update...
Finally got a clinic appointment for my hand - 26th May at Stepping Hill. Obviously this isn't ideal so I've contacted the specialist unit at Derby to see if they'll do me a private appointment. Failing that at least we appear to be making some progress even if it is a bit glacial.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for keeping Fit Club going Dandan. And apologies for my unauthorised absence, been sorting house move stuff mostly.
Last week:
Had a cold in the middle of the week, so not a lot of volume, need to get back to the weekly strength maintaining fingerboard sessions, which have been missing the last couple of weeks.
M - Castle Inn. Had aims of onsighting the 6c’s, but it was freezing so bailed after a couple of warm up routes.
T - Rest
W - Penmaen Head. 6b+ retro flash, worked the moves on a 7a. Happy enough that it should go after a few RP attempts, I just need to remember the sequence better. This seems to be a weakness of mine, as I had a couple of goes on TR and promptly fell off at the crux due to getting the moves wrong!
T - Lurgy enforced rest.
F - Lurgy enforced rest.
S - Lurgy enforced rest.
S - Dinbren. First it rained. Then it stopped. Then it got windy. Still, put the clips in one of the retro bolted trad routes, about 7a/+ I think. Really nice route, and feels obtainable with a little more practice..
Does anyone climb at Dinbren much? I could do with sorting out a regular midweek partner for either Wednesday or Thursday evenings, or both!
Thanks for keeping Fit Club going Dandan. And apologies for my unauthorised absence, been sorting house move stuff mostly.
Last week:
Had a cold in the middle of the week, so not a lot of volume, need to get back to the weekly strength maintaining fingerboard sessions, which have been missing the last couple of weeks.
M - Castle Inn. Had aims of onsighting the 6c’s, but it was freezing so bailed after a couple of warm up routes.
T - Rest
W - Penmaen Head. 6b+ retro flash, worked the moves on a 7a. Happy enough that it should go after a few RP attempts, I just need to remember the sequence better. This seems to be a weakness of mine, as I had a couple of goes on TR and promptly fell off at the crux due to getting the moves wrong!
T - Lurgy enforced rest.
F - Lurgy enforced rest.
S - Lurgy enforced rest.
S - Dinbren. First it rained. Then it stopped. Then it got windy. Still, put the clips in one of the retro bolted trad routes, about 7a/+ I think. Really nice route, and feels obtainable with a little more practice..
Does anyone climb at Dinbren much? I could do with sorting out a regular midweek partner for either Wednesday or Thursday evenings, or both!
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan! Do you have any news from the physio? Thanks for the advice on the shoulder I’ll try to not push It too hard. It’s lock offs that hurt, so easy to avoid.
Weight: 70.5kg
M: climbing indoors, routes up to 7-, nothing special really, just fun training
T: rest
W: climbing outdoors, was still wet and started raining halfway up the first route, worked a 6+ as warm-up and onsighted a 6
T: bouldering indoors, did my first ever 7A, afterwards some campussing (they installed new rungs from wood grips) and 3 sets of deadhangs on the half balls 1x12sec and 2x10 sec
F: running, just 15 minutes, don’t know at what pace, core exercises afterwards
S: Climbing outdoors at duelifjell, I led the first pitch, a slab without any decent pro, got 3 bad nuts in on 65m, luckily it was easy climbing (n4), but still a little scary without holds, second pitch we did the neighbouring route, also graded 4, but definitely harder, but with decent pro. Afterwards we decided to go a 5-, but ended up on a 5+ due to misinterpreting the drawings (I’d love to have photo guides instead of drawings) and did the last pitch of the 5-, so unfortunately no routes to tick from the LTG list, since we mixed them up.
S: rest
Still in exams, so not a short term goal, although I hope to visit a climbing festival on the other side of the country this weekend, to have some time off from learning and to visit a presentation of the wideboyz.
Thanks Dan! Do you have any news from the physio? Thanks for the advice on the shoulder I’ll try to not push It too hard. It’s lock offs that hurt, so easy to avoid.
Weight: 70.5kg
M: climbing indoors, routes up to 7-, nothing special really, just fun training
T: rest
W: climbing outdoors, was still wet and started raining halfway up the first route, worked a 6+ as warm-up and onsighted a 6
T: bouldering indoors, did my first ever 7A, afterwards some campussing (they installed new rungs from wood grips) and 3 sets of deadhangs on the half balls 1x12sec and 2x10 sec
F: running, just 15 minutes, don’t know at what pace, core exercises afterwards
S: Climbing outdoors at duelifjell, I led the first pitch, a slab without any decent pro, got 3 bad nuts in on 65m, luckily it was easy climbing (n4), but still a little scary without holds, second pitch we did the neighbouring route, also graded 4, but definitely harder, but with decent pro. Afterwards we decided to go a 5-, but ended up on a 5+ due to misinterpreting the drawings (I’d love to have photo guides instead of drawings) and did the last pitch of the 5-, so unfortunately no routes to tick from the LTG list, since we mixed them up.
S: rest
Still in exams, so not a short term goal, although I hope to visit a climbing festival on the other side of the country this weekend, to have some time off from learning and to visit a presentation of the wideboyz.
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks, all good advice!
If I'm going to attempt pre-work fingerboard, I feel like I'll have to ease myself into it a bit... I'm a morning person when it comes to desk work but not exercise. I occasionally run in the mornings, feel very creaky and the watch shows I'm well below pace.
There's a few things on Upper Wall to have a go at, and I've never even pulled on to Connoisseur's Choice et al. so that will be worth a hit.
Thanks, all good advice!
If I'm going to attempt pre-work fingerboard, I feel like I'll have to ease myself into it a bit... I'm a morning person when it comes to desk work but not exercise. I occasionally run in the mornings, feel very creaky and the watch shows I'm well below pace.
There's a few things on Upper Wall to have a go at, and I've never even pulled on to Connoisseur's Choice et al. so that will be worth a hit.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks me,
Another week of diddly squat, this tennis elbow takes a lot longer to shift than any of my other elbow issues. Weirdly i'm not particularly annoyed about it, keen to get back to climbing yes, but i'm happy to let it take the time it needs.
I did some light DIY over the weekend, digging over ground, laying slabs, shifting rubble, you know, just the easy stuff It doesn't seem to have bothered my elbows though so it's all good, I avoided my usual party tricks like picking up breeze blocks in a one hand pinch grip though...
The upshot of not climbing is I had time to sort out my garage and consolidate the bits and bobs of climbing wall that I have collected, I now have 4 large boxes full of holds and enough t nuts and bolts to mount them all, when my boulder shed is built it should be pretty good from day 1!
Thats really it for now, my STG is to get my elbows back up to speed, nothing else I can really do until then.
Thanks me,
Another week of diddly squat, this tennis elbow takes a lot longer to shift than any of my other elbow issues. Weirdly i'm not particularly annoyed about it, keen to get back to climbing yes, but i'm happy to let it take the time it needs.
I did some light DIY over the weekend, digging over ground, laying slabs, shifting rubble, you know, just the easy stuff It doesn't seem to have bothered my elbows though so it's all good, I avoided my usual party tricks like picking up breeze blocks in a one hand pinch grip though...
The upshot of not climbing is I had time to sort out my garage and consolidate the bits and bobs of climbing wall that I have collected, I now have 4 large boxes full of holds and enough t nuts and bolts to mount them all, when my boulder shed is built it should be pretty good from day 1!
Thats really it for now, my STG is to get my elbows back up to speed, nothing else I can really do until then.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Morning Camper,
I can recommend Connoisseur's Choice, it's great - the E3 up the scoop to the left is also ace, although I'm still to stick the last move and top out on that. Critic's Choice is also great, my high point is almost halfway up that - still below the bolt.
The Slug at the'Sham will definitely help you pull through some Font 7A crux sections on routes, I'll be out there on Thursday evening from about six pm and then should make it there on Sunday - dunno about the time yet. Got loads of beta, different sequences and spurious and irreverent link-ups for you to play on. My mate Tom and I have five mats and a tarp so we 'pad out' the whole wall so you can get on or off anywhere!
Love from,
Joyce,
Xxxx
Morning Camper,
I can recommend Connoisseur's Choice, it's great - the E3 up the scoop to the left is also ace, although I'm still to stick the last move and top out on that. Critic's Choice is also great, my high point is almost halfway up that - still below the bolt.
The Slug at the'Sham will definitely help you pull through some Font 7A crux sections on routes, I'll be out there on Thursday evening from about six pm and then should make it there on Sunday - dunno about the time yet. Got loads of beta, different sequences and spurious and irreverent link-ups for you to play on. My mate Tom and I have five mats and a tarp so we 'pad out' the whole wall so you can get on or off anywhere!
Love from,
Joyce,
Xxxx
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