UKC

Hi,

I'm staying in ambleside in a week or two and normally boulder when in the lakes. Been looking at crags like scout scar, mill side scar and dalt quarry. After visiting hodge close a few years ago with it being in poor condition with bolt missing etc. what are these places like? Or just bring the pad for sampsons, langdale or kentmere boulders? Want to stay local as with some less dedicated climbers so giggleswick is a bit too far for a morning climb. Chapel head would have been good but that's under bird ban.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

No idea on Dalt Quarry, Scout faces west so unless it's warm it's better as an evening crag, I believe it was rebolted a few years ago. Millside is fairly limited in route numbers, not been since before the last wave of development some years ago.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Dalt quarry, although at first site looks like a dirty hole in the ground with a manky pond in it's base has a few short slate routes some of which are actually half decent to climb. However, I wouldn't travel far to climb there and also the lower off bolt(s) in a few routes are pretty iffy unless they have been updated in the last year or so.

Bram crag quarry has undergone a lot of development in recent years and has a lot of lower grade routes although the rock above the routes and quarry in general is quite loose.

If Hodge is a was a bit off putting then Tilbethwaite quarry (the next turn off from hodge) has a small selection of fully bolted routes as well as some trad and semi bolted climbs. I quite like that place and have climbed a good number of the routes.

Scout scar is Limestone and near Kendal, quite well bolted if I recall and a reasonable selection of routes and grades.

In reply to Lord_ash2000:

went to tilbethwaite on the same trip i went to hodge. On the ukc page is says around spare rib has been a rockfall and they are unclimbable. Hodge looked amazing if the routes had been maintained.

Scout scar is the best choice then? Looks ok from the pics on ukc and is the closest to where we are staying.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

There was a bit of a rockfall at Tilbethwaite, I think it may have taken out one or maybe 2 routes but the majority are fine. A lot of what's in Tilbethwaite is not really "sport climbing" in the same sense as Malham etc (many routes still rightfully get E grades) but Ingrams route is pretty good, a well bolted 7c vertical / slabby route in the upper quarry.

I forgot to mention Thrang quarry too, in Langdale. It's only got 3 or 4 routes at 7a+, 7c and 8a+ I think very steep and pumpy. Again it looks like a dirty hole in the ground but the quality of the climbing (the 7c in particular) is top notch.

But if you're after proper sport climbing as most people know it then yes Scout scar is probably your best bet I'd say.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Millside is a pleasant little crag too, though not as much there as Scout Scar. Cadillac, Countach and Straight-8 are all well worth doing.