UKC

Looking for folks recommendations for footwear in the mountains that is both light and climbs rock well.

I've been wearing Nike trainers on the Munros for years and they work really well for that purpose. So I'm quite happy to go completely minimal. But for easy climbing in the Mod/Diff range, their lack of sensitivity or stability in the toe makes them not ideal for climbing in.

I remember La Sportiva (I think?) used to do a shoe that was a lightweight walking/climbing shoe hybrid, which looked brilliant. Can't remember the name.

Anyway, essentially looking for something I can scramble the length of the Cuillin crest on. Thoughts would be great.

Cheers

In reply to kwoods:

I guess you are looking for an approach shoe. I would say them being waterproof is quite important. At least that's a priority for me, as I tend to walk off the path most of the time and I had Asolo boots which leaked. After two days of soaking wet boots/feet I ended up with so painful blisters that I had wore Crocs at work the next day.

I have La Sportiva Crossover shoes, but I got them for 30 pounds - wouldn't pay the full price. They also look a little bit strange, but they are quite nice for all sort of stuff.

In reply to kwoods:

5.10 Guide Tennies are awesome. I wore out a pair between 2008-2010 — used them for everything bar full-blown winter conditions.

I'm currently an Inov-8 user, but their shoes are more suitable for walking and running than scrambling.

In reply to kwoods:

Some form of approach shoe... the features that I think you need in Britain (which aren't always there!) are:

* A fairly aggressive tread, to avoid sliding down wet grass;
* Waterproof (/ water resistant)

I like the new 5.10 Camp Fours for this. They are a lot more waterproof than the old model. A lot of people like the Guide Tennie, although I always think the tread looks wimpy? Lots of other options are out there.

In reply to kwoods:

Quite a few "approach" shoes, that have semi technical toe for climbing.

Some are more rigid and have bigger lugs than others.

5.10 Tennie Guide is the classic well climbing option. 5.10 do however have varied build quality. You may get the best shoe... or the lemon.

A bit more climbing focused model used to be 5.10 Daescent. Which is actually my choice (as long as there is no snow).

In reply to kwoods:

You might be thinking of La Sportiva Boulder X. They're more substantial and heavier than a trainer but I find them great for scrambling. Of course, it's all about fit and they are great for my narrow, low volume feet. Whereas I found the 5.10 equivalent quite a sloppy fit.

In reply to kwoods:

Cheers for the recommendations. Looks like I'm sorted with these.

On the subject of waterproofness (or lack of), the Nike trainers seem not to give blisters because the water passing through is always replaced - they're full of holes. In my old boots (which leaked and then trapped the water), my feet would get hot, stingy then blistered. In the Nikes its actually really refreshing to have cool water going between my toes and they don't appear to blister even on long, wet days.

The shoes stability on wee holds is primarily what I'm looking for, these recommendations look like the business judging by the Google reviews.

In reply to kwoods:

The La Sportiva Rockjock. Great hybrid rock approach shoe. Still have a pair and love them.

In reply to Nigel Thomson:

That was the shoe I meant! Apparently discontinued, I heard.

In reply to kwoods:

Also look at the scarpa zen. I'm going to buy a pair when I've saved up for the next 3 years

In reply to toasted:

Zens are nice — I've had a pair for a couple of years — but they're quite heavy and stiff for approach shoes, and they're definitely warm due to the high amount of leather. They don't drain or dry out much faster than many full-blown boots.

The sole unit is fantastic for climbing and scrambling, though.

In reply to kwoods:

Worth considering that Guide Tennies and similarly flat soled shoes are useless / dangerous on wet grass on a slope. I have used fell running shoes as approach shoes which work well though mine seem to be designed to let water in / out which can be a pain.

In reply to Brian Pollock:

It depends on technique, though. I have safely used Guide Tennies on steep, slick grass slopes. The tread is optimised for rock rather than general hill terrain, but with some adaptation it isn't too bad.

In reply to Only a hill:

As have I - the guide tennies have been my main mountain shoe for the last couple of years. You do have to be careful in certain circumstances, but the benefits far out weigh that for me!

In reply to kwoods:

Five.Ten changed the sole pattern on the Guide Tennies and Camp 4 last year, they're both now deeper and more open over most of the sole with a smooth area around the toe. I think it's compromised the climbing ability on the Camp 4, but it's definitely better on muddy, grassy slopes
Adidas approach shoes are worth a look too, slightly narrower fit than the Five.tens.
Solo Stealth is probably closest to old Guide Tennies, but slightly stiffer http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Terrex+Solo+Stealth
And there's the Scope http://www.outside.co.uk/shop/Terrex+Scope which is more like the old Camp 4.

In reply to kwoods:

+1 again for the Five Tennies, no other walking shoe crosses over into technical scrambling/easy climbing so competently. I've worn out two pairs and done big hills, long walks and led HVS in them.

Not had any for a few years though, and did find their drawback was a bit slippy on soft ground and mud. And the soles wear through a bit quick; drawback of being so sticky. Currently got some gore-tex lined sturdy Inov8's (not running ones) which are better on muddy vegetated scrambles, but just not a patch when rock gets steep.

I might take a look at those Adidas stealths that Simon linked above.

In reply to kwoods:

Nah, had a look, I'll get some new Tennies. No two ways about it.

In reply to Only a hill:

Interesting, and I agree it's a technique thing. I don't mind the flat soled thing, I've been walking up hills for years with trainers with absolute beggar all tread. So the Five Tennies in the old style would probably good.

Think I'll take a run down to the shop. This feedback is really encouraging, glad to hear theres so much available.

In reply to Brian Pollock:


I've worn La Sportiva Rock Jocks for climbing. They have no tread at the front of the sole but a fairly grippy tread at the rear. They gave me the fright of my life on wet grass at the top of a sea cliff when I wasn't roped up, when I put my foot down using only the front of the sole.

In reply to kwoods:

A couple of my pals swear by their La Sportiva Ganda Guide boots.

Lightweight boots, with some ankle support for longer walk ins, but still fairly technical for climbing/scrambling. Pretty cool bits of kit if you ask me.

In reply to kwoods:
Surprised everyones recommending guide tennies and the likes for walking and mod-diff climbing in scotland - as others have said you'll end yourself on steep grass and they'll get ruined by getting constantly soaking. They're really made for less boggy countries imo and yeah they're great on nice dry rock but when it comes to thurtching your way up that grassy chimney you'll be wishing you had a pair of boots on.

I usually walk in light weight fell running shoes if it's dry, a short walk or its somewhere like the lakes where there's loads of paths. I've climbed in them and they work but they're not great. For Scotland I'm tending to go back to leather boots these days, for climbing around diff they climb as well as a rock shoe, they'll not die after two minutes touching gabbro and let's face it how many times do you go out and not get ankle deep in bog? At least in the pissing rain and boggy ground you'll keep dry feet, maybe I'm getting soft. Was bouldering with them while I was on holiday and even though my boots (lowa non gtx) are old and bendy now they edge and smear really well, still think a good pair of leather walking boots are just made for scottish ground.

5.10 are cheating. They make a preproduction shoes in USA and send them to reviewers. But main production is outsourced to China and the shoes we see in stores are not the same as in reviews.

In reply to nutme:


Source?

In reply to kwoods:

i have pair of salewa wildfire gtx which are great. Scrambled in them and seconded vs in them. well worth a look.

In reply to wookie667:

If you're a trainer user you'd probably like a pair of Inov8's. They do lots of different models now but my 285's are brilliant for scrambling and still very grippy on grass and mud. Water just runs through them. Only thing to avoid is early season snow dusting because that runs through them too!

In reply to kwoods:

Adidas Terex approach shoes with stealth rubber.

Comfy and great to climb in.