UKC

I've done a search but not found anything about this specific problem. About a month ago I knackered one of my fingers. I've assumed, based on internet research, past experience and the Dave Macleod book that it was a partial tear of the A2 pulley. At the time I was unable to open hand or crimp without pain, and it was even pretty bad changing gear or using the handbrake in my car.

I've given it a bit of rest, a bit of careful climbing and lots of cold water baths and it seems to be on the mend, albeit slowly and whilst still feeling quite weak. However I'm getting quite a lot of crampy type pain in my palm (as well as around the finger) and the area of my palm directly under the injured finger is very tender to touch. I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced this with an A2 pulley injury as it doesn't seem to be a common symptom?

In reply to climbingpixie:

Hey up,

I have exactly the same issue....partial tear of the A2..ive started climbing gently on it now. I taped up the finger the other day just as an extra support(if taping actually works). When i got down from the climb, the palm had a "sticky" type of feel/pain. I have been gently massaging it in the tendon. Physio said it was the sheath for the tendon in the palm ir something like that..

Pain has subsided but is stiff in the morning soni assume it may be scar tissue that a simple massage would break down.

Might not be helpful but in answer to your question, yes, i am experiencing those symptoms too...

In reply to climbingpixie:

I have a big lump in my palm where one of my tendons was damaged. I can't now recall if it was coupled with an A2 injury.

In reply to jugforathug:

Cheers. I haven't done much massage as it's been too painful but I might try now that it's calmed down a bit. I'll extend the massage down into my palm to see if that helps at all.

How long has yours been bad for? I haven't been to see anyone as my experience has been that most phyios don't know much about fingers and the likelihood of getting a referral to a specialist through the NHS (within a reasonable timeframe) is slim to nil.

In reply to climbingpixie:

Popped mine in my little finger about 6 weeks ago and still getting pain from it. Taping has helped alot, even in everyday use. Read up a lot about it and it seems to suggest that surgery should only be used as last resort for climbers and only if their is bowing in the finger. Didn't try the medical route as lm not sure how serious a booboo on my little finger would be taken.

In reply to climbingpixie:

About 3 weeks ago the actual injury happened but there were signs prior to that I ignored just so I could carry on climbing. (We live and learn)! I reckon there had been minor trauma to it and the actual injury happened warming up on a route, i went for the crimp and then pain...!

I can climb lightly openhanded but no crimping possible at the mo. There is a good Physio I can recommend I use in Leeds if you want to see someone just as a guidance to check it out? For me defo worth it.

Defo massage, it is the way to recovery. The scar tissue needs to be broken down. I am continually massaging mine and already seeing good signs.

In reply to climbingpixie:

I had the same injury a few years ago and had pain in the palm under the finger. Think this is common in an A2 or more likely an A1 pulley injury. As others say, some deep massage of the palm and up over the finger in small circular motions really helps to loosen things up, but only once the swelling is down, which should be the case after a month.

Cramp type pain or general stiffness in the finger and palm is also normal, especially first thing in the morning due to the finger not being flexed all night. This can last for months/ a year, but I found I could still climb on it once the 'proper' pain was gone and full range of movement returned to the finger.

In reply to jugforathug:


Oh that all sounds very familiar. A tweaky strain that was exacerbated by some poor decisions on which problems to climb.


That could be useful if you don't mind. I can climb open handed now as well but I'm still intensely nervous about pulling too hard on that hand and undoing 4 weeks of careful recovery.

In reply to ogreville:

Thanks. That sounds about right actually, the cramping is worse in the morning. Started massage as well so will see whether it helps.

How long did it take until you could climb normally on the finger?

In reply to climbingpixie:

I was back climbing easy stuff in 3 months, 6 months to tentatively start on crimps and harder grades, about a year before I was happy to move dynamically off the finger and all pain had disappeared post-climbing session.

Don't despair, if you're already climbing on easy stuff, you're probably not too badly injured.

Best piece of advice I can give - go easy! Climb REALLY easy stuff for the foreseeable future. Low grade climbing is much much better than no climbing due to re-injury.
It requires the discipline of a monk to avoid the temptation to move up the grades after a bit of recovery, but try to concentrate on other aspects of your climbing - Slow paced endurance, body position, core strength, footwork etc.

In reply to climbingpixie:

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