UKC

Is the current trend of 60m ropes now necessary for well established Alpine routes which in my estimation are often geared at belays for Guides and these belays are usually comfortably within 50m. I know there are exceptions but unless recent Alpine developments have changed routes, my limited experience says 'No' to 60m.

However, I am finding it increasingly difficult to source good ropes @ 50m.

Comments and views welcome...and of course the usual slagging from those who just like to have-a-go.

In reply to Andy Cloquet:
I would always take 60 to have more margin for linking pitches and abbing off, especially when having to do DIY abseils leaving gear behind...

In reply to Andy Cloquet:

It really depends on the route and time of year. Many routes will have old gear every 25m if they are used in decent. Plus it's snow level dependant, you might have masses of options or very little of the insitu.

If you plan to climb stuff that is mainly pitched climbing, ie harder routes, then 60 has some slight advantages, but if you are only on easier ground and will spend loads of time in coils there is no gain in practical terms, but more weight and bulk to share between you. Horse for courses, there is no reason why any of the standard routes won't be entirely possible with 50s, they've been done that way for decades.

In reply to Andy Cloquet:

50m Ropes are fine for most classic alpine routes and alpine rock routes. If 60m ropes are needed it is usually explicitly mentioned in the guidebook. 60m Ropes are necessary for a lot of ice climbs however.

In reply to Andy Cloquet:

50m are fine for summer routes I wish we'd had them on the Walker for example. you need 60m for ice and snow routes though.

In reply to Andy Cloquet:

Depends on the route- this one for example (on my wish list!) has been recently equiped for 50m ropes;

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54496/fr/aiguille-de-sialouze-traversee-ar...

In reply to Andy Cloquet:
There's an unofficial policy around the Chamonix area to equip new (multi pitch) rock routes for 50m ropes. This has been the case for a long time. If you think about it from an equipper's point of view, no-one's going to do your new route if they have to go out and buy new 60m ropes for a one-off. Obviously, as you say, there are exceptions, but two 50m will get you up and down most routes safely.

In reply to Andy Cloquet:

Keep in mind also that with plenty of rock routes you may need multiple abseils to get off and if your using 60m ropes you've more rope which can potentially get stuck when pulling through.