With sadness I inform the community of a loss of a Portland classic, The Right Mix (F6b+), Wallsend North, due to a completely snapped off second hold. The jug this guy has his left hand in here http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=55050
On Saturday 2nd of May I led this and then belayed my friend as he led it too. When he came to make the big move from this jug to another out right the entire thing snapped off, he took a nice fall, and I narrowly avoided having my head broken in two by the falling 14"x5" long piece. The wall now looks blank - as if it were a climbing wall and had stripped its holds.
I loved this line and it's a great shame that I was possibly the last to climb it. Please take this as a reminder to be careful on flowstone formations and the friable limestone in Portland. My friends that saw this say it was only because the leaders fall took me off my feet and pulled me into the overhang that the piece bounced off my back and not my skull. We must all invest in helmets. I'm waiting for pictures from my friends camera when I have them I'll upload to the crag pages.
If someone has the necessary experience, time and resources then we still have the hold in our possession and will happily pass it to a local. I wouldn't know where to start, which glue to use or where to source it.
In reply to AdamBrown: Definitely keep the hold. It can be easily glued back in place - completely invisibly - using Sikadur, a two part resin. I'd have thought Mick Ward http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=17970 would be the person to contact.
In reply to AdamBrown: I have just spoken to a mate of mine who climbed this on Saturday. He said he thought it was a 'bit tricky' for 6b+ but still managed to flash it...no need for glue after all!
Yes, following Tom R's comment, I climbed it on Saturday 9th May. With a left hand on the jug rail, right hand on the black side pull, a poor right heel hook, and poor left foot smeer, dyno for a goodish sloper high with the right hand. I thought it was about 6C+ maybe 7A.
> Yes, following Tom R's comment, I climbed it on Saturday 9th May. With a left hand on the jug rail, right hand on the black side pull, a poor right heel hook, and poor left foot smeer, dyno for a goodish sloper high with the right hand. I thought it was about 6C+ maybe 7A.
