UKC

I've just finished a blog post of my very stylish ascent of horrible roof test-piece Billy Pigg at Swanage. Perfect reading for anyone looking for inspiration to go climb the bloody thing. Any feedback is much appreciated;

http://abropeanyone.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/getting-buggered-by-billy-pigg.h...

In reply to David Gainor:

Well done Dave. Interesting and witty account of what sounds like an epic
Everything I've read about this route makes it sound like a total sandbag, and yet it still sits there quietly foreboding on my ticklist. I could just take it off, but I know that sometime soon I've gotta step up to the plate and as betty boo would say "do the do ".
The quest for the golden jug awaits - apparently it's the size of a small F@cking coffee table - yeh right !

In reply to David Gainor:
And btw love the blog title - getting buggered by billy pigg lol

Cheers Ciderslider! Must be a pretty small coffee table then...

To be fair the gear is very good, and, as we found out, you can easily aid through the crux if it all goes tits up. Maybe I'll give it another try one day as well!

In reply to David Gainor:

The hidden jug is there, and is very good. If we told you where it is there would be no joy for you when you find it! Billy Pigg plays to the strengths of old Swanage climbers, lots of upper body strength, useless footwork (so we don't get confused), and not much imagination.
Find the hidden jug, cut loose, get a foot jam, yard up to the even bigger jug and it is all over. If you think that the lovely, solid corner of the second pitch is "loose" then the Ruckle has many more surprises waiting for you.
The guide book description is spot on, it is a great introduction to roof thuggery and the steeper Swanage routes.

In reply to David Gainor:

Very entertaining indeed. We've all been there. I'm very fond of this route for personal reasons, but your piece has increased my affection for it. ( though I think 'metre' and 'earshot' would improve it.)

Not really following this 'hidden jug' business. There's a f**k-off huge slot staring you in the face right by the gear in the break in the roof, and once you've got hold of that and got your feet up the holds are exactly where they look from below like they're going to be.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Cheers John! I'm actually getting more and more tempted to have another crack at it, god help me...

In reply to David Gainor:

I thought it was good fun.
Nice.

In reply to David Gainor:
Yeh, you know you want too
I'm gonna have to take a punt when I'm next down ( which could be next week)
And hopefully I'll be the buggerer rather than the buggered

In reply to David Gainor:

Just back from Swanage and thought we'd visit the Pigg - what fun !!!!! So nearly got him - found all the holds and cut loose - just couldn't quite find feet - tried to jam my left knee in the crack above the overhang - I'll be back !!!

In reply to David Gainor:

In common with pretty much every roof anywhere in the world success on billy pig is assured if you have the core strength to hold up your belly when absolutely horizontal. I fear few of us are that fit ( I am certainly not at the moment) and will suffer the same fate as you have so amusingly related. In years gone by however Bill pig has been a hoot, and really isn't that difficult once the roof has been surmounted and the one arm pull up (with full trad rack attached) been completed. Happy days.
Matt

In reply to David Gainor:

I found the free version easier than when I aided the roof!

In reply to mutt:

I would say that BP requires roughly the core strength of a chihuahua, given that I managed to get up it. Stuff like rolling your shoulders and using your feet will do fine.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yes but why are so many people finding this easy route impossible? Clearly reaching up and grabbing the massive jug is beyond some people - are their arms too short,..... or their sholder too un-rolly? I suspect their legs are coming adrift after letting their arse droop. or the arse droop pulls them away from the massive jug!

In reply to mutt:

I like many others was buggered by the Pigg ! I had no problem with the roof and even got up to the mythical jug, I cut loose ( forgot to roar) all no problem - The fun started when I tried to find somewhere to jam my feet - I tried a knee bar with my left leg, but all that did was push me out - if there had been somewhere to put my feet I would have cruised it - it seems that once you get the jug(s) you've still gotta campus up - hard for 5B