UKC

Hi All,

First trip to Paklenica Croatia next weekend. Looking forward to some cragging and some longer multi-pitch days.

Looking for any route recommendations:

1. single pitch upto 6c

2. multi-pitch upto 6b

Also any advice of what rack to bring for the multi-pitch routes?

Appreciate that the lines are mainly bolted but I understand many of the multi-pitch routes "benefit" from some gear to plug the gaps, but the guide book I have isn't too specific on what to bring and I'd like to keep the air baggage down.

thanks in advance!

Robin

In reply to robbiebrookie:

From my own experiences, I wouldn't class the multi pitch routes as sport routes.....more like trad with a couple of bolts in! We had a full set of nuts, and that just about did us. But as always the more you can take, the better. The single pitch stuff up a Belvedere crag was very well bolted (great 6b there btw).

Also, take double ropes! It makes the abbing off much less hassle.

Have a great trip, and watch out for the Bora!

In reply to robbiebrookie:

Hi Robin,

On gear, we've taken a light rack on both trips there - one set of nuts, a few cams (didn't use them at all) and extra slings. Bolts at belays and cruxes are the norm on the multi-pitch we've tackled, but I think many of the harder routes are more fully bolted.

The star system in the guidebook seemed fairly reliable to us in route choice, although it can result in popular routes getting busy here and there. Can't offer any specific route recommendations at your grade, but the style of climbing is quite varied in the gorge, and we found that in general the grades are tougher than some other sport venues in Europe, with some exceptions. I personally found the big multi-pitch routes on Anika Kuk were hard for the grade. Its a big lump of rock.

Its a great place despite the tourists at weekends, atmospheric to climb there, easy to find shade or sun as you prefer, there's a loo and shop in the gorge itself, and there's even a Croatian Pete's Eats where you turn off to the Gorge (Buffet Paklenica).

(I assume you know that you have to buy a climbing permit at the entrance)

Hope this helps

Have fun

Dave

In reply to robbiebrookie:

If you do the trade route up Anika Kuk, the crux pitch has a red herring move that created a long delay when I did it. As I recall there was a polished hold that makes you think you need to bridge, when in fact a hand jam makes the move dead easy.

In reply to robbiebrookie:

Single pitch is really not that special in Paklenica. Grades also vary widely so it is quite difficult to give good recommendations. From the top of my head, three very different 6b routes to get the feel for the grades
Crni Gad (6b+)
Aanvallluhhhh (6b)
Bloody Marija (6b)

For multi-pitch my picks would be:
Diagonalka (6a+)
Domžalski (6a) continue via Brid za Veliki Cekic (5a) to the top of Aniča Kuk
Leva Tržiška (6a+) merges into Brid za Veliki Cekic (5a) towards the upper half
Velebitaški (6a+)
Kača (6a+)
If you have good endurance by all means try Klin (6c+) and just aid over the crux.
Mosoraški (6a) is the most popular route and therefore quite polished and IMHO over-hyped.

As for the rack, a set of offsets, a few smallish to mid sized cams (up to purple Friend or yellow C4) nad some slings should be more than enough. Also 60m doubles are not mandatory but can be quite useful.

Hope this helps.

In reply to robbiebrookie:

Thanks all - helpful!

In reply to robbiebrookie:

Stating the obvious but lots of sun cream and a hat. Just returned from hvar split area and were getting 29+ days. Well above the advertised low 20s on most weather sites.