UKC

Off to Orpierre very soon and, as I'm currently sat inside trying to recover from a virus, I've been perusing the Rockfax guide to the area. I've also read the fairly recent UKC article. However, I'm interested in any personal recommendations for sectors and routes. Lead up to 6b/+ onsight and I'm particularly looking for good routes up to around 6c to have a go at.

Any other tips for the area welcome, though please note I've been to Buis and surrounds a number of times previously.

Thanks for any suggestions.

In reply to Skyfall:

Long shot I know.....

In reply to Skyfall:

If it's anything like this week, you'll be looking for shade. Next week'll be hotter too. Some of the Orpierre crags do go into the shade for the afternoon. - Chateau and Cascade notably. But it's years since I've climbed on those particular ones and therefore don't know if the routes I enjoyed are still any good or if they're polished (they are the nearest crags to the village). Parts of the higher crags also go into the shade, but later. We did seek out a couple of shady crags elsewhere last year - Savournon, which wasn't great and another nearer Sisteron which I forget the name of but will let you know when I remember it. Not a lot of help but I'm sure someone else will have some better ideas!

In reply to jon:

Nice lunch at Sisteron for when it gets hot. There are some shaded routes in the chasm feature with the rising traverse being memorable. All on fossilised shells in that part. The suntrap bit is limestone and the guide grades are not to be trusted. But the climbs are fine.

In reply to jon:

Thanks - we'll just have to put up with the heat even if not ideal ...

In reply to Skyfall:

It was called Essaillon, not far from Ribiers. Longish drive up a forest track then a short steep approach. But really only worth it if it gets too hot. You could also check out American Mike's in Sisteron. He's selling 80m ropes (Beal and Edelweiss) for €135 or if you don't mind a muddy green colour, €115. Google The Blue Light Sisteron.

In reply to jon and kevster:

Thanks for responses. Is Sisteron worth a day or two's visit?

In reply to Skyfall: i didn't especially rate the climbing in Sisteron and while it's ok i think you can find better. My main problem with Sisteron was that a couple of years ago i had to stay at the hotel in the middle of town, and the food there was quite poor. So don't expect wondered there

In reply to Skyfall:

Anything on the Quiquillon should be pretty good! Diedre Sud is a cool feature, up the giant arete (although the rockfax topo didnt seem very accurate, we used the local guide once we were there).

In reply to Skyfall:

Wings of Desire (Can't remember French translation) at 6C+ is a fantastic route with really varied climbing. Boulder problem start gets you worked but you can the lie down on a ledge for an eternity to recover before tackling the steep section above and then hope you have enough in reserve for the techy slab at the top. One of my favourite routes ever.

Cisteron is definitely worth a visit for the day, the ammonite traverse is a really cool 6a+ following a prominent wave like feature. Also worth a day or 2 is a trip to Ceuse (If you can handle the walk in)

Trick with Orpierre is to chill out during the morning and then head up to the crag around 3 o'clock and climb until it goes dark. There is an amazing reservoir about 20 minutes outside of the village you can go swimming in while you are resting in the morning. Can't remember the name I'm afraid but sure you will see it on a local map.

Hope this helps

Jonny

In reply to Skyfall:

We were there a few weeks ago. At 6c Les ailes du Desir was amazing (gets 6c+ in the rockfax but c in the local), if a little polished. That and the 7b next door, L'Ange Gardien, were probably the two better routes that we did there- a really cool steep wall with lots of big holds, and a few moves to keep it interesting. Even in mid April it was too hot to climb in the sun, but the crag comes into shade in the afternoon.

Cheers

Will

In reply to Jonny Nick:

Ha. Let's get this right... Wings of Desire is the translation, Les ailes du desir is the name! Anyway, this was one of the routes I sort of referred to above that I didn't know if it'd been ruined by 24 years of polish. Apparently not, but seems it's got easier - it was given 7a when I did it, 6c+ in RF, but now as Will notes it's 6c in the local guide. Bugger.

@ Skyfall: It's worth getting the local guide as it's got dozens more routes than the RF - all the sectors to the right of the upper parking, some of which are shady.

In reply to jon, jonnny and will:

Re Wings, I think 6c+ going on 7a might be a bit on the stiff side for me unless I project it all holiday! However, some of the nearby routes look interesting and I may of course get an authentic desire to give it a whirl

Thanks for the tip off re the weather. Having been to the more southerly/lower lying areas at this time of year, I'd hoped this would be ideal but maybe not...

I had planned to buy the local guide but will make sure we do so asap upon arrival, thanks.

Any more tips re specific routes would be very welcome. Looking at the RF database, gradings may be a little stiff so perhaps I should focus on 5's