UKC

UKC Fit Club Week 425

How's everyone finding the weather currently? I'm not looking to get outside at the moment but I couldn't even find time between the showers and high winds to go for a pedal on my freshly stolen (from my brother) 24 inch trail bike!


Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=615005

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Psyche video this week: Sorry im all out of video based psyche this week, I'll edit something in if I see a good one soon

Last week's posters:

Planetmarshall - busy week for training! What is a Wall Ball?
Cheese Monkey - Well done on the 7b!
alexm198 - I hate it when work gets in the way of training, better this week?
Roadrunner5 - running along the Appalachian Trail sounds fantastic
Exile - Very steady week, any more chance to get outsdie this week?
Nick Russell - what is your conclusion for going forward with the Fit CLub's collective input?
Joyce - Loads of time on the project, fingers crossed for progress
AJM - Overall decent week? Big ride today, how was it?
Willi Crater - 2 outside sessions sounds good, what is your project called?
hms - one-handed off slopers?! I'm guessing there arent many people can do that...
Tyler - any more info on your new benchmark problems?
The Ex-Engineer - Front lever, the essential climbers party trick
biscuit - Happy to hear you have cleared your head a little
Luke Owens - Awesome work on Nomad! Sounds like more ticks would have been had if not for weather and that damn sun setting
mbh - hope you rib is improving?
Humperdink - fantastic result in the 10k considering the conditions
mrchewy - really positive week, glad the rolling is working for you
mattrm - sounds like you enjoyed the ride, did you get a birthday climb in the end?
Ally Smith - RRG sounded productive, some awesome ticks! How's the whiplash?
Just Tintin - nice to be back in the swing of things?
flopsicle - i'm not sure you can call that a lazy week, looks good from here!
Creedence - unauthorised abscence forgiven, sorry to hear about the lurgy! Any progress on the Dinbren 7a/+?
0.5viking - First 7A! good job, another big milestone
Dandan82 - shouldn't you, like, do some exercise or something?

AWOL Lancer, Joughton, Ian Rock, JayK, Mutl3y

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. And no I certain;y can't but bet Ben West can somehow. Bit of a lacklustre week, with home life getting in the way of both psyche and outdoor climbing.

M - UCR routes. Trying a crimpy 7b, plus a whole load of 7a/+ routes.
T - various domestic complications. Think I did S&C x 3 but may have imagined it.
W - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, 7 circuits to warm up (inc the 7a I'd previously greased off the end of), then put lots of effort into piecing together a 7b, the another 3 circuits to warm down.
T - cycle commute, fingerboard & S&C x 3 in evening
F - Bloc. Had thought there had been a mass reset, but there wasn't. Bumped into Ben West who suggested I try the woody problems, some of which were apparently 'not that hard'. Should have been suspicious about this sortof thing from a British Bouldering Team member - I got precisely 1 of them!
S - rest
S - UCR, trying the 7b route again. Can lead pretty much all the moves apart from 1 which I'm stuck on and annoyed about

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan.

Lazy week in Spain. Did absolutely zero training (I dont think a few lengths of a 10m pool counts), but made up for it with pure hedonism and a little bit of climbing. Even with such little climbing I think I have injured my shoulder slightly. Damn

M- Nothing
T- Amptrax (8 pitch 6a) at El Chorro. Awesome
W- Nothing
T- Nothing
F- Took friends out to play on easy routes on top rope, I did a nice 6c+
S- Nothing. Flew home
S- Nothing

Need to train this week....

In reply to Dandan:

Apols for the AWOL...was on holiday with family and one thing after another sort of scuppers training plans.

This week just gone I thought I would try some sort of strength feats while away but didn't have it in me.

Only thing of note was 490 press ups I did on Tuesday. Was doing sets of 50 and going for 500 but couldn't quite manage it.

This week am doing a bit of cycling as got the Coast 2 Coast this weekend. It's just a social thing over 2 days but should be better than stopping in.

In reply to Dandan:


Cheers Dan. It was good thanks. Felt strong on the bulk of it, faded in the last 10-15km but thankfully it wasn't that hard by then, although it felt it. I think maybe a mixture of cumulative tiredness and also not quite eating enough at the last food stop did it. By far the hilliest ride I've done and by a small margin the longest too.

May have talked myself into entering two more - a 100m in the New Forest and a super hilly 75m in the Peak District potentially.

Went climbing outdoors on Saturday, did some Boulder problems, and my finger didn't hurt once! And they were moderately hard by my standards too. This is very exciting.

During the midweek itself I felt pretty wiped out, I'm not really sure why, which means I probabky didn't get as much done as I'd have hoped, so have only managed about 50% of plan this week, with a lot of rings/offset pullups and some finger boarding not done. Have to try harder next week.

Monday - nothing
Tuesday - bottom pullups and wide grip pullups before work. Rings(shoulders) and rings(core) at the wall. Bottom pullups and wide grip pullups before bed.
Wednesday - stuck in work later than planned, then wall. Continuity and max distance offsets.
Thursday - feeling knackered. Cycle commute. Rest.
Friday - quick continuity session
Saturday - afternoon in the cuttings boulder field. Boulders to V4 incl one flash. Finger didn't hurt. Very excited!
Sunday - Jurassic Beast Sportive. 63.8m, 4298ft. Big day but less brutal than the February ride. Training and better logistics etc clearly helps.

In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing the stats.

STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.

Weight - 12st 2lbs (3lbs loss)

M - S - Rest, DIY, cleaning, tidying, birthday stuff, family trip to the Gower
S - DIY - flooring the shed + 100 dish tucks

Parents down this weekend and my birthday this week means another lazy week. I've been doing loads of DIY and stuff, but no exercise per se. However I'm now walking about 2 miles a day to and from work and eating a lot less so lost 3 lbs in weight. Which I'm happy with. Keep that up and I'll be at 12st by next week. Which will be good. Also the weather promises to be good for the next week or so. I'm planning to go out climbing next weekend ideally for the whole weekend. So fingers crossed it stays good. The 'birthday' session didn't happen as the leisure center wall was closed for the day. Lots of the big DIY jobs are now done, so hopefully I'll be getting back into climbing for the next few months.

Just measured it, 2 miles exactly to and from work each day. That's got to be helping.

In reply to Dandan:

Hope recovery is going well dan and nice to hear AJM that the finger's ready to play.

Been totally wiped out this week, resulting in an 18hr sleep on Tuesday night and straight to bed after work on Thursday for 12 hrs. Been overdoing everything lately and the extra hours at work finally caught up.

STG - Salbit Sudgrat. (Need to start some cardio)
MTG - Climb some lime in Spain. (Need to climb better)
LTG - Salbit West Ridge.

Mon - Edale Horseshoe. 16 mile chomp with my physio and her friends. Kept a good pace and the knee felt okay but it was tough, not done anything like this since Swizzy last summer.
Tue - Bed
Wed - Woke up about noon and felt like death but was climbing with a mate later who's had 6 chemo sessions so far... how could I cancel for being tired?! 6b felt easy, tried to flash 6c and should have got it, just couldn't manage a pullup over the overhang. I was way too knackered. Gutted. It'll go next time tho.
Thu - Bed
Fri - Boulder. Good session, felt strong. Almost flashed an Alex Fry V4 but didn't take the biscuit on the top move due to the dodgy knee.
Sat - Work
Sun - Reynard's Arch was wet, then Embankment was wet - ended up at Masson Lees. Flashed 6a for warmup, worked a couple of 6cs and then finished on 6b. Easy enough. Good day.

Definitely climbing much better and starting to understand how to get around my lack of wrist movement. 6c this week has felt totally doable, a wrist stopping move on one and the other a strong boulder start that stopped one of my much better climbing mates.

Need to do more cardio this week.

In reply to Dandan: Not a great week and currently on a coffee stop on another silly commute (Sussex to Skye) between work today and tomorrow's job

M - Routes@ Brookes Got the crimpy f7a+ that really isn't.
T - nowt
W - nil
T - nothing
F - work
S - work + impromptu short conditioning session courtesy of a handy tree branch - 20x7 pull ups on the minute (132/140), L hangs, Offset pull ups, press ups, FL progressions.
S - work + crazy drive

Next week not looking good either with work and weather but I might be able to salvage something: Malham on Friday anyone?

In reply to Dandan:

Not such a good week this week, find it difficult to get out in poor weather - just need to bite the bullet, really. Looking forward to another good week with an improvement in the weather forecast this week.

Mon - Trail Run. 10.58km/230m
Tue - CrossFit.

• 5 Sets 5 reps Bench Press (Max 45kg)
• Tabata - 20 Secs work 10 Secs rest. Totals Situps - 42, Pullups - 16, Pressups - 29, Air Squats - 145

Wed - Rest
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Trail Run 9.78km/171m
Sun - Rest

By the way - wall balls: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=200&v=S23_4LcHC2k

In reply to Dandan:
Didn't return to the Outhouse this week but I'm more convinced than ever of their value, hopefully they won't be removed

M: Needed a second rest day from climbing so decided to travel to London early. Did an hour on the exercise bike
T: Didn't need a third rest day but back home late
W: Boulder UK
T: Working late
F: Preston wall bouldering for a change, something to be said for Friday training
S: Rest day justified after last night training
S: Malham, SYT wet so forced on to Toadal as the only dry route. Miles away from the crux but that's nothing new. 2 x 20 pull ups just now

In reply to Dandan:

Weather's fine here. It was pretty grey midweek but I got out climbing 4 of the 7 days!

AJM convinced me that I don't need to get any stronger (for current goals of 8a and building a base at E4) so no big push on that front until the winter. Over the summer it will be a case of one fingerboard session/week as maintenance, making some effort to select shorter, harder sport routes and doing some outdoor bouldering. This should help avoid getting weak from too much trad!

This week:
M - Avon. Just one HVS, but good to get out. (Still not got over the lurgy.)
T - Nothing. (Lurgy lingering.)
W - Some attempts at hanging on the fingerboard, nothing structured/productive.
T - Cheddar, Burmese Wall. 3 goes on Mercurial (putting clips in, shaky redpoint attempt, smooth redpoint losing power in crux).
F - Short run. Just stretching legs really. Coughing not entirely subsided.
S - Portland, Cuttings. Quick RP of Haute Cuisine (7a+). Had a look at The Mind Terrorist (7c/+/may as well be impossible). I found a few static positions where I could pull on to the holds. Evening bouldering with AJM.
S - Portland, Battleship. Light drizzle in the morning. Later on had a decent flash attempt on Victims of Fashion (7a+). Got through the crux the fell on blind section at the top. Two RP attempts but a bit too ruined from the flash attempt/not enough rest?

Hopefully the lurgy is well and truly gone now. I seem to have had one cold or another for 4 of the last 9 weeks.

Assorted goals:

Trad routes at E4
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 2; Clean onsight: 2

Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid

Get stronger
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer. Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.

Sort out the assymetry (ongoing)

In reply to mattrm:


Hi Matt - can you explain your notation here?

Cheers -
Andrew.

In reply to Dandan:

I’ve now had a headache on and off for the last 8 days. The codeine I got given by the docs makes me feel more ropey than the headache.
Probably not training again this week; going to take the opportunity to re-assess my goals, make some tick-lists & get some trips booked. (oh, and do some life $hit like DIY/gardening/admin/online dating).

STG (next week)
- Get over the concussion/whiplash. Apparently the headache could linger up to 2 weeks

Last week:

M - Very slow start; pounding headache. Malham. Decided not to join the queue on Zoolook and tried Straightened instead; stout for 8a. Struggling to put more than a few moves together. (In retrospect, I really shouldn’t have gone out. Thankfully got away with some poor judgements whilst driving home).
T - Headache = Rest. 13 hours sleep (very atypical).
W - Headache = Rest. Neck very stiff.
T - Headache = Rest. Feeling very wobbly.
F - 5 day headaches are no fun. Spent the day being shunted around different parts of the NHS. Diagnosed with mild concussion and a torn neck muscle. Totally off my game and missed a massive opportunity with a pretty A&E doctor.
S - Headache = Rest. Gear shopping. Attempted a gentle boulder. Almost failed to even do the walk-in. Turned around and went home - Breaking Bad boxset and trawling POF saved the day.
S - Headache = More rest. This is starting to get boring.

In reply to The Ex-Engineer:


I'm not a physiologist, but I have read that training a high volume of pullups ( ie, more than 100 ) can increase risk of elbow tendonitis. If you can do this number of pullups it might be worth making them more difficult, ie adding weight or doing frenchies.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks me,
Another very slow week, tennis elbow still hanging around and not really feeling like it is improving, I might try for a gentle climb this week to see if it makes it better/worse/niether of the above.
Physio is on Friday so no doubt i'll come away with a fresh list of stretches and exercises to fill my days...

I did manage a strength and conditioning session mid week which kept me happy, I really need to try to do two of these a week at the moment, especially if i am doing very little else, I will aim for that this week.

In more exciting news, I ordered the wood for my boulder shed on Friday, i've got this coming Friday off work so i'm hoping to get the majority of it built in the 3 day weekend. It's going to be great to have some half decent home training facilities (if my elbows ever let me use them), now all i need is a job close to home so i don't have to commute away all week...

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan.

I'm not sure if my ribcage whatever-it-is is improving, actually. I did go to a GP last week, and she thought it was an intercostal strain. I have done some running, which may be unwise, but have kept my "pace" in check because although the pain while running is not great, that is only true if I don't breathe deeply, so I try not to. That applies the rest of the time too, and I surmise that this is why I always feel out of breath.

So, after 26 50+ mile weeks in a row, I now post the third below that level. I might have made it to 50 if it weren't for a long drive to London and back on Saturday, and 18 hours of solid study on Sunday, trying to meet an inflexible MOOC deadline, which I did by one minute!

M - 2.9 miles to retrieve car from wedding place where I had been Dad Dancing only hours before.
T - 6.8 miles over Carn Brae
W - 10 miles, mainly flat @7:59
T - 7.6 miles of coast path.
F - 9.2 miles @7:57
S - driving and London
S - work

I have a 44 mile ultra on 13th June. This rib thing has severely got in the way of preparing for it.

In reply to Ally Smith:

If you're looking for a cure for the headache... I doubt this will help

In reply to planetmarshall:

I completely agree. I have almost stopped doing ordinary pull-ups at the wall entirely and have introduced offsets and other stuff.

Unfortunately standard pull ups are fairly easy to do almost anywhere compared with the faff of finding a suitable 10-15kg weight. I also tend to generally do twice as many press ups as antagonist training and so far haven't had even minor niggles.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing FC again Dan! Be careful with setting up your wall, don’t overwork your elbow with it.

Weight: 71.3kg
M: climbing indoors, did some bouldering trying an orange (medium) route, got stuck on one move. Autobelay afterwards, reached a new highpoint on a 7+/8-.
T: running, 30 minutes at 10 km/h, shoulder and core afterwards.
W: climbing indoors, got pumped halfway up the warm-up 5b, went bouldering after.
T: rest
F: travel to the climbing festival. Climbing outdoors, did 3 routes, was really excited to go climbing on Saturday.
S: climbing outdoors, got only 2 routes done because everybody drove to the supermarket at 2pm, to the crag afterwards, to be back for the bbq at 5pm.
S: climbing outdoors, just climbed 2 routes, as most people had big hangovers, drive home afterwards.

The climbing festival was a disappointment for me, since I thought it would be about climbing as much as possible, but it was more about socialising, talking about climbing and drinking beer. The big highlight was a presentation from Tom and Pete, which did made visiting the festival worthwhile.

In reply to Dandan:

Morning Campers,

Thanks a lot Dan, interesting to see that loads of us were ill this last week or so, must be something going around the forum!

Training Diary WC 04/05/15
An Cap Training Week 1/2 and Project ‘Loop’
Monday – DIY Club then 5K run in 20:25 then antagonistic exercises.
Tuesday – Rest; cold lingering – natch.
Wednesday – Rest
Thursday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a). Top holds on Ames High were wet. Did Ames Wol but slumped through last drop down to rail (99% there). Did two bodged redpoint attempts, avoiding the wet holds. Got to the Wol span first go then failed on a ‘peely off move’ on the bodged bit second go. Switched to doing 10 An Cap reps; Set 1 = 3 x Ames Wol past gaston move(15 - 17 moves!) then 1 of Ames Low (12 moves). Set 2; 3 goes on Ames Wol – to gaston move twice. Ames Low rep was about 10 moves. Set 3: slumped off start of Ames Wol so did 2 reps of first 8 or 9 moves on Low. Canned it as ‘empty’. Press ups and shoulder rehab to finish.
Friday – Rest – ill; feeling much better.
Saturday – Park Run: 5K in 18:57. A bit of a headwind so well happy.
Sunday – Huntsham – working The Loop project (8a). Two attempts at High Blow( 7B+) – sailed past finishing jug on first go, two moves back on second go. The Loop repoint attempt got to same span and fell off, chalked up, rested for 1 min then did that move and the surrounding sequence nae bother. An Cap reps x 11. Skin gave out after 6 or 7 reps so had a couple of poor (painful) efforts then did 3 x 20 moves on a slightly easier problem. Press ups and shoulder control muscle stuff to finish. Really enjoyed this session, felt back on it after being ill.

Gonna do a few weeks of endurance/fitness work at TCA/other crags to mix it up, shock my body into improving as I haven’t got past this span move in 8 redpoints. I feel like I need a change in tack to make progress as I’m solid to the span then off.
Weight = 72.2kg

Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX

In reply to Dandan: Cheers Dan, apologies for the two weeks off I've been ill and busy revising!

Weird week really, only managed two sessions but both were good.

Wed - still quite ill. Hadn't climbed in a week and half so I felt a bit off. Strong but not very coordinated. Failed on some easy stuff but managed some harder things too. Finished by doing a quick campus session with amazing, surprising results. After no campus work in three months or so I managed 1-3-5-7-9-7-5-3-1 on the big rungs (never managed before), felt very solid on 1-3-5 and 1-4-5 on the middle rungs, and then the crazy bit was managing 1-3-5 on the little rungs which is something I've never come close to! Maybe a weeks rest is good.

Fri - big annual comp at Climb Newcastle. Big cash prize so lots of strong people around. Thought I climbed rubbish because I slipped off and made silly mistakes on four problems which meant I got second go, but then there were only two other problems I didn't manage. Thought I hadn't performed well and had a birthday to go to so I didn't stick around for the final. Turns I came 5th so I had qualified, out of around 150 in the adult male category. Bit disappointed to miss out on competing against the likes of Adam Watson and Nathan Phillips but I probably would've juat embarrassed myself anyway!

So a funny week, pleasant surprise to be feeling strong though.

Cheers, Jake

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dandan, it has seemed to be a week of rain dodging this week, with some aborted outdoor attempts. Hopefully it will be better this weekend. But at least I finally got a 7a done...

MTG (End of 2015)
• Sport Pyramid - 1/12 x 6c/+, 1/6 x 7a, 0/2 x 7a+
• Trad Pyramid - 7/40 x HVS, 0/30 x E1, 0/1 x E2

M - Bank Holiday Monday. Stanage. A few routes to get used to grit again, and then a couple of HVS classics done. Queersville was the route of the day, with some fun moves.
T - Rest
W - 5x5 pull ups (+8kg). 5x5 push ups (+10kg)
Fingerboard - Repeaters. 3 sets of
Half crimp 30mm (+5kg), Front 3 30mm (+5kgs), 35° Sloper (-4kgs).
T - Rain enforced aborted outdoors session.
F - Rest
S - Rain enforced strength session: 5x5 pull ups (+9kg). 5x5 push ups (+11kg)
Fingerboard - Repeaters. 2 sets of: Half crimp 30mm (+6kg), Front 3 30mm (+6kgs) +1kg on both
S - Penmaen Head - 6b+ warm up, then a 7a redpoint! My first one at last.

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan. Yep, work has been pretty frustrating! Swings and roundabouts this week. Started with best intentions but I think that picking the running back up after a couple of months' lay-off in Scotland was starting to take its toll. Felt like I was developing some sort of shin splints type thing on my right shin, but the pain was focused in quite a small area. I worried that it might be a stress fracture, so decided to take it easy on the running for the next week or so and focus on strength. The good news is that the shin is feeling much better currently so a bit of rest seems to be working.

M: 7.65km/198m trail run. HR Zone 1. Felt good and strong, but leg was sore afterwards.
T: Rest
W: 90 minute strength circuits (core routine to warm up, then max strength session)
T: Short session of frenchies (5s lock, 1x5)
F: 2hr session bouldering indoors after work. Long, easy warm up just traversing around, then sent everything up to f6a+ and a couple of 6bs.
S: In London with the other half
S: London

Goals for this week: 2 sessions climbing (indoors/outdoors weather dependent), 2 circuit sessions. Continue to rest leg, if feeling better try a short run on Sunday.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Getting there slowly but seriously behind for the year on real rock sessions. Need to do some serious plotting to work out where they might come from!

M – May the fourth climbing at High Neb/Crow Chin
T – last attempt at the Brookes boulder set – 3 new blues
W – coaching then mixed routes/boulder at Brookes
T – rest
F – Stamina bouldering at the Climbing Unit
S – Routes topping out at 6c,6c,6c,7a+ at The Reach
S – rest. Family wedding anniversary thingy.

In reply to Dandan:

Thanks for doing fit club again fella.

Yep, got outside but only training. Still, the weather will come good sooner or later and I'll be ready!

2015 aims:

Winter VI 7 - Tick.

Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - started.

Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade

Summer -get on some slate

Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

M: am. 1hr road ride - got a puncture (Mountain endurance)
T: am. 1hr 30min 6 move boulder problems on 45 degree board & core (power)
pm. 1hr 10min trail run in New Forest - away with work (mountain endurance)
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: am. 1hr 30min 6 move boulder problems on 45 degree board & core (power)
S: Rest
S: am. 1hr 30min top roping one of the E3s on Red Wall x 10, (set of 3 then set of 7,) Trowbarrow (Endurance)

Steady week given away with work Tuesday morning to Thursday evening.

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan,

M: 6M easy in 41:22
Tu: am - run to work 4/5M in 31:41, pm - run home 7/8M in 49:07
W: Lunchtime - session on the road: 6 x 1K off 75secs recovery, 5min jog then 6 x "200" off 60 seconds recovery. Was windy so pleased to be doing the K's in around 3mins and found the 200's hard! 8M total. pm - 4/5M easy in 30:52
Th: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:14. pm - run home 7/8M in 49:15, legs sore!
F: Legs still sore from Weds!! am - jog to work 1/2M, pm - run home 4/5M in 30:12
Sa: Went to Crawley to support the wife who was doing a 3000m race on the track. She had a solid run which was good and I managed to fit my session in on some trails by the track session was: 3min (3min recovery) 3 x (4 x 400) off 60secs and 3min between the sets. Legs felt tired so it was a struggle. Did a good cool down afterwards of nearly 40mins so in total it was 12/13M -tired when we finally got home.
Su: am - 80mins easy, not sure who was most tired: me or the wife! 11/12M

72M Total and some good quality so think its starting to come together.

In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan

STG: Senile Penile Extension (7b+), The Screaming Skull (7b), Strawberry Tubin (7b)
MTG: Flowers are for the Dead (7c), Diamond Project, 7b+ Redpoint in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a

M: Rest

T: Raining everywhere, only place dry was Dulas cave. Did a few laps on Zoidburg (6c) and a couple on Spider Mite (6b).

W: Rest

T: Orme - Warmed up repeating Contusion (6c) then dogged the "Senile Penile Extension" (7b+). Took awhile to work out. Came down for a rest, some guys wanted a go on the 6c and took a life time on it. Felt cold and was in a rush by the time I could get back on, got through a couple of the moves on the extension fell off then had to bail.

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Orme - Wanted to get back on the extension some guys were on it. Waited ~2 hours for a go and it never happend, the whole wall was busy. Got annoyed and went to the Cutaway. Dogged up "Half Man Half Beard" (7a) had a redpoint and fell off after the crux with bad beta had a further 2 redpoints the last one falling off looking at the chains... powered out to hell, annoyed.

In reply to Creedence:

Nice one!

In reply to planetmarshall:

Yeah, basically, I've done 2 6as out of the 10 I've got planned or 5 out of 10 VSes. It's all a bit moot at the moment, as I'm just not climbing as much as I'd planned to. So that's it. Make sense?

In reply to Dandan:

Cheers Dan. Good work on the thread and some excellent standards for early in the season.

Last week wasn't bad. I got the motivation to get a couple of fingerboard sessions done along with antagonist and core. Very easy finger boarding as just getting back into it.

One Boulder session which was quite good. All problems done up to v4 (30) then 9 out of 12 v5's, 3 v6's and one surprising v7. Soft though. The lower grades were tougher than usual, following customer feedback they'd been a bit easy if late, so a good workout.

Just about to start day nine of ten in work so this week has not been good so far.

Race this weekend as a prep for the fifty. Just to sort out kit and race day stuff. It's a half marathon round the howgills with a local hilly marathon next month.

Hopefully get a session in tomorrow at the wall after work but after setting all day and being tired from work I'm not holding out much hope for a good session. I may go for mileage and falling practice.

In reply to Humperdink:

I like that groups of 400.. I do similar.

m: 5 miles easy legs tired
t: 10 miles a bit quicker feeling better
w: am: easy 5. pm: 9 miles on the road 6:50 pace. pm: final slow 3 with the wife
t: 9 miles on trails easy
f: 12 miles 4000 foot ascent Catskills
s: 33 miles 11,000 feet of ascent long day in the catskills
s: rest day, just felt tired

Last proper week, now just tune ups, more quicker running, a few track sessions and build back.

In reply to Roadrunner5:

Good week! Yeh the sets of 400's is classic. Its normally 3 or 4 x (3 x 400) great little session and a bit of a change from the standard 10 x 400 as you run faster off shorter recovery during the sets rather than 10 reps same recovery. Looks like your training is coming together nicely, hope the taper goes well now. Good luck!

In reply to Roadrunner5:


wuss.

In reply to Humperdink:

I actually went to do that tonight.. 4 mile loop to the track, did my strides, A skips, stretches.. and just didn't want to do it. I actually walked the 1.5 miles home rather than running.. a lovely night and a nice walk through the park. There's maybe 1-2 days a year when this happens..

In reply to Roadrunner5:

Well I wouldn't worry about that, its probably your mind telling you something! You've done all the hard work so no need to over think it as to why you didn't do it and your legs will prob thank you for an easier day. Its all about the performance in the race now anyway