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Svolværgeita

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Jase_ohh 11 May 2015
Im looking for any info from anyone who has climbed Svolværgeita up at Lofoten Islands in Norway.
Is it bolted at all or all trad?
If trad what equipment did you used, hex's, nuts or cams?

Would appreciate any info.

Thanks
 HeMa 11 May 2015
In reply to Jase_ohh:

Pretty much the only thing bolted is the 2 belays/rappel anchors (plus there's one old rinb-bolt on the last pitch of Forsida).

You need the normal gear of nuts + cams (wouldn't bother with hexes).
 AlH 11 May 2015
In reply to Jase_ohh:
What HeMa said: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=245940
And in this one the person on the left is hanging from the bolted anchors: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=245941
Post edited at 07:43
 HeMa 11 May 2015
In reply to AlH:

True, I forgot that there's one additional bolt on the wall (1st pitch of Englevinger) as well.

So in practice, be prepared to have a full trad rack and be prepared to build your own stands.

I seem to also recall, that there were a few pins on some of the routes. But it's been a few years since I was last there, so they might not be there anymore...
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 11 May 2015
In reply to Jase_ohh:

As above the routes are all trad with no fixed gear apart from the abseil bolts.

Descriptions here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2319


Chris
 d_b 11 May 2015
In reply to Jase_ohh:

In addition to what the others have said, expect to queue. It is THE local honeypot and most of the routes end up at the same belay before the "horns".
 HeMa 11 May 2015
In reply to davidbeynon:

And all end up at the top belay on the horns.... (Ok, I think rappel-ruta doesn't but all others do).
 d_b 11 May 2015
In reply to HeMa:

When I climbed it the choke point seemed to be below the horns, with one party at a time climbing the horns. I think almost everyone was doing the 1910 ruta that day
Jase_ohh 24 May 2015
In reply to Jase_ohh:

Thanks a lot everyone one for your help, not keen on the lining up for the climb but I guess it will be well worth it as all the pics look unreal.

Looks like most of the climbs through Norway are trad so I better not skip on any equipment.

Cheers

Jason

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