UKC

I need to do a bit of stamina training, in case I get the chance to go and do some proper trad routes on big cliffs with big holds this year.

Any ideas for training venues on Eastern Grit. I'd like to be on french 6b/c territory that I can stay on for a while without proper rests. The only long traverse I can think of - maybe not quite steep/hard enough is the one at Stanage far right which I could go back and forth along for a bit. Maybe there are other bits and bobs up there too which might be suitable.

Any ideas for other venues? I'm working on some long links on the Heeley Boulder, but something on grit would be preferable. The limestone's a bit far and not terribly enjoyable - although Rubicon is the obvious choice for a hot day.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
Not grit but closer to home. The mighty broomgrove wall

In reply to deacondeacon:

I was wondering about other Sheffield urban venues, there's Endcliffe Park wall too. Does Broomgrove have f6b/c territory? I always assumed it was tiny edges for the Moffatts (and Mark20s) amongst us.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Bell Hagg, burglar buttress seems good for this kind of thing. Likely to be dry in the rain/murk as well.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Two recommendations off the top of my head — the wall left of Leaning Block at Higgar Tor and the Keyhole Traverse 4 (f7B+) (until it gets properly hard) at Millstone.

Not Grit, but Stoney has a few pumpy low levels...

Pete.

In reply to PLM:

Good call. Never really bothered with the Hagg - will check it out.

In reply to Pete O'Donovan:


Great - I'd never have thought of that.

and the Keyhole Traverse 4 (f7B+) (until it gets properly hard) at Millstone.

Maybe...always struck me as a bit painful and nasty?

Thanks!

In reply to Jon Stewart:
I think Red Lane was the king of long traverses back in the day. The wall still exists, but since the derelict tennis courts it used to run alongside were redeveloped it is now sadly divided up between the back gardens of a dozen or more houses.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Yes, come to think of it, you're right!

Pete.

In reply to Jon Stewart:
The Walnut below Baslow. That would be proper hard though, back and forth

In reply to Jon Stewart:

I can't remember all the grades there but you could do laps on the RHS wall (think it was around 6a+ ish)

Also the longer LHS wall is around French 7c but you could go L to R until the crux and then reverse it. It's got the semi rests in the middle and if it's a bit too easy you can always use a smaller hold on a different brick.

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Somewhere you can go up and down a bit rather than side to side. Traversing can be overrated.

In reply to Stig:



And quite the approach in spring/summer.