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North pembroke - what are the best HVS and E1 routes

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 mutt 15 May 2015
First trip weekend after next so I would appreciate any advice on where to go for the best routes.
thanks
Matt
 Stu McInnes 15 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

Its VS but do Amorican at Caerfai - one of the best around.

HVS -Dreamboat Annie at Porth Clais,
-Ethos - Carreg y Barcud
-The Great Valerio - Barcud, its given E1 for the second though but climbing is straightforward
-Twinkler, Trwyn Llwyd
- Shiraz, St Nons Bay

E1- Sinecure, Barcud
Beyond the Azimuth, Barcud
Barad, Trwyn Llwyd
Be Brave, Barcud

There are of course heaps of amazing routes outside those grades!
 Kemics 16 May 2015
In reply to Stu McInnes:

Amorican is definitely a must do regardless of grade.

Above the azimuth was quite good too.

Pembroke sandstone is lurverly
In reply to mutt:

Barad is by far the best route at those grades in North P, though some of the others mentioned are pleasant enough as well.

jcm
 The Ivanator 16 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

Sinecure (E1 5b) at Barcud (E1). Another VS worth doing is Act of God (VS 4c) at Craig Coetan.
Rigid Raider 16 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

Where's Heart of Darkness? That has to be one of the most amazing climbs I ever did.
 The Ivanator 16 May 2015
In reply to Rigid Raider:

In South Pembroke?
 mjeffery 16 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

Dekapod and The Pear are good on pencarnan slabs. Also aquaplane and the purple people eater on Porth-y-Ffynnon are worth a look ( the climbing good but the top out is a bit chossy). Heart of darkness is on mowing word in south pembroke.
 Bulls Crack 16 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

The one's with most stars?
OP mutt 16 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

thanks everyone, and yes I do know about the star system but there at too many of them to do in one weekend! I'd rather take recommendations from those who know the best of that bunch.
 John2 16 May 2015
In reply to Stu McInnes:

I agree with Shiraz, but Chinon is also worth doing on that crag.
 pacman 17 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

Barad's worth a trip; change of scenery and a good climb
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=45895
 Jon Stewart 17 May 2015
In reply to mutt:

It's hard, but Be Clever (E2 5c) is one of my favourite routes ever. It's got a run-out in the first half and then when you get the solid gear you have a nails crux right at the top - ace!

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