UKC

Hello helpful peoples,
I am in the market for some new half ropes and am attracted by the lovely looking Mammut Pheonix's. Does anybody have any opinions of these ropes or the use of 8mm half ropes in general? Is 8mm a bit skinny for good rope handling? They are to be used for be used for trad climbing of course (I likes me sea cliffs in particular). It's not that I lack experience that I ask, only that I am a little old school now (8.5 used to be considered skinny....) Weight saving is good in my book, they also look sexier than my current strings and that will surely make my climbing experience more enjoyable.......

...but then it's quite a good thing to be able to hold a fall without too much difficulty, or is it that a modern skinny ropes needs a modern type of belay plate and not my retro 90's ATC...?

Jb.

In reply to John Mcshea:


I found using thin halfs (Icelines, so 8.1 IIRC) terrifying with an old ATC, abseiling in particular. I remember going down the S Face of the Midi thinking, "I really wish I didn't need to grip this hard"! And that was with a prussik. ATC Guides are great with thin ropes, but so are Reversos Mega Juls and I'm currently using a DMM Pivot. All work fine.

In reply to John Mcshea:

I agree with Toby. Original ATCs are obsolete & dangerous with modern skinny, slippery ropes. You need to get something newer with more bite.

In reply to TobyA:

Thanks guys,
that's what I wanted to hear, I can get some lovely light ropes and just need the right plate to go with them.
Thanks,
Jb.

In reply to John Mcshea:

Thin ropes are lovely.

However, they do tend to enjoy tangling themselves above and beyond what a thicker rope can manage.

In reply to John Mcshea:
I have the Mammut Phoenixes and think they are great. They are a perfect combination with a DMM Bugette which is featherlight and only a tenner, although a Reverso gives you guide mode in return for a few extra pounds and grams.

In reply to TobyA:

Seconded, using Icelines with the DMM Pivot. Work like a charm, but as someone else said, they like to tangle a lot. Also, my climbing partners get surprised that I fit two 60m ropes and full trad rack with few other bits (guidebook, kindle, water, snacks, jacket, etc.) in the Blue Ice Octopus, a 40l pack. It needs some work to fit everything in, but it's not too bad!

My partner also held a fall this weekend with a DMM Bug which is meant to be used with thicker ropes! I can't complain as it was really soft fall on a single nut 5-6m above the ground...

My mate has 8mm ropes and I had to rappel on those several times. They feel like shoelaces and at first it's hard to trust them.
Works fine with my rappel setup: Wild Country VC Pro for friction and Petzl Shunt for safety.

In reply to John Mcshea:

Skinny is defined by what you're used to, not half a millimeter here or there. You'd get used to your new 8mm ropes in no time.

I use a grabby old Stitch without a spring, that works fine but there are loads of modern devices to handle thin slick ropes, I wouldn't let £10-15 of new belay plate put you off nice lightweight ropes.

jk

In reply to John Mcshea:
Have been using pheonix for many years for alps, scot winter and summer trad. They have worn well and handled fine. I use a reverso 3 and carry a spare incase partner has no compatible belay device. Every time someone picks them up they can't believe how lite they are.

Recently bought 2 x 60 m http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Ropes/Half-Ro... for ice climbing in Norway. Initial thoughts are good and the price is amazing.

Davey

In reply to Mountain Llama:

Thanks, I've just bought the Meteors, it's too good a deal to let slip (!).... I have also ordered a reverso 4 to suit, I know the guide option is very handy for comfy belaying. Now to put them to good use, roll on Pabbay......
Jb.