UKC

I need some advice and recommendations for boots that are good for moderately technical alpine and winter climbing.

Until recently I've been using Scarpa Omegas but the linings look to have become too worn as my toes are suddenly hitting the ends of the boots after years of use without problems. My heels have always lifted a little in the Omegas as well because I can't get a tight enough fit over the insteps. I don't think I need another pair of plastic double boots or double-lined boots though but am not totally sure where the right compromise lies for me between warmth and reduced bulk/weight and technical precision.

I live in Norway so need a boot that's warm enough to ice climb with in January as well as for climbing in the Alps during winter/spring. I have a trip to the Pakistani Karakoram in July, which would be their first outing. We would only be going to around 6000m and on past trips there I've never found the Karakoram to be that desparately cold at these heights compared to other ranges. Andy Houseman I noticed wore Scarpa Phantom Ultras on his last Karakoram trip, which reinforces in my mind that I'm not going to need a particularly warm boot. A double boot would be nice for the trip but, given most of other climbing will be single day ice and Alpine, I think I can put up with the disadvantages of a single boot for this trip.

I'm a UK size 12, with maybe slightly narrow feet and low insteps (but only slightly).

Now here's the catch... The stock levels of boots where I live in Oslo (and also Norway) are proving to basically be shite for my size. The Sportslager website stock levels lies before anybody posts a link Usually I'd try everything on and see what fits best but I'm struggling to actually try stuff on in the first place. Import duty is really high in Norway so it's not very economical to order a load of boots from the UK or Germany and see what feels best. Plus possibly a hastle claiming back the duty for the wrong-sized boots that I return. Currently thinking the best plan will be to get a shortlist of boots best suited for the conditions that I'll be using them in and then fly to somewhere specifically in the UK or Germany to try them on. Boots are a lot cheaper in these countries, which would largely pay for the flights

What I've been able to try so far:

Batura 2.0
Tried the 48. Really liked the fit but the 47 has been in stock for a month. Not sure whether the 48 was too big without trying the smaller size.

Scarpa Phantom Guides
Felt 1/2 size too small in 47 but really good otherwise. Nothing bigger in stock to try.

Scarpa Rebel Ultra GTXs
Not been able to try in my size. Not sure whether I could get away with the Rebel Ultra GTXs for warmth?

Spantiks
Have been out-of stock in 47 but suspect will be too small based on reviews I've read. Don't think I'd want the bulk as previously mentioned.

Phantom 6000s
Hated these boots when I tried them on. The bulk felt way too much for anything technical. Also right faff trying to put on in the shop. Felt like the linings would not last long. My toes were touching the ends of the linings even in 48, which made it really difficult to judge the fit. My Omega had normal space at the toes. Basically this is the type of boot that I don't want

So that's where I'm up to. Would really appreciate some general advice so that when I do try some more boots on the main factor will just be the fit.

In reply to Mr. Lee:



Haven't tried these, but from what others have said if you're used to Omegas I suspect these would be too cold. Uisdean Hawthorn had a pair in the Envers last September and he mentioned they were on the cold side.

Phantom Ultras have served me well for Scottish and Norwegian Winter, so I suspect Guides would be fine.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

You might need to resort to online, at least Telemark-Pyrenees has been good before (as in ship 2 sizes and then you return the wrong one). Also they might be willing to measure then insoles for you to get a better understanding on which size to order.

My advice would be to try the Batura and Guide again and also just the insole (plus measure the insole) to get an idea what kind of measurements you need...

In reply to Mr. Lee:
I really rate the mammut nordwands - but the new version is a (assume bulkier) double boot. Good fit for narrow heels and lowish instep.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Mammut Norwands are supposed to work down to -35 so should be warm enough, since I got mine last year I've not seen any snow so can't confirm (hope they are my feet run really cold!).

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Thanks for the replies. Managed to track down and try on a pair of Batura 2.0s in a 47 in the end. Slightly too small but was 99% sure the 47.5 would be ok. Ordered a pair from Germany and the fit is perfect!

In reply to Mr. Lee: hi lee. You won't go wrong with the Bat 2's. They're awesome boots.