UKC

Hi!
I'm going to buy my first climbing rope for sport climbing. I need some advice. I'm hesitating between Edelrid Python and Beal Edlinger.
Thanks!

In reply to toshkas:

My first workhorse rope was the erdlinger 10.2mm 60metre. If survived 5 years of abuse, and ive replaced it with the same.

I've have some edelrid half ropes that are a bit nicer handling, although not as durable. Not that I've used the model you mention

I think either will be fine, but if they are similar price, then choose the beal as it should last longer.

In reply to toshkas:

My Python has always been very coily - makes belaying hard. I wouldn't recommend it to be honest.

In reply to toshkas:

I use Edlinger (35m) as my wall rope, but it has seen some action outdoors (mainly just rigging or TR solo). It's over 2 years now and there are some bumps due to climbing indoors and I wish I could retire it, but there's nothing wrong with it so far! It handles well and it's tough.

I really liked DMM Statement though. I suspect that Edelrid makes (or used to make) ropes for DMM as the pattern looks almost identical on some of the ropes. So you can't fail by buying either, I suppose.

In reply to PPP:

I had a Beal Edlinger recently as a wall rope to replace a rope of the same model which wore well. Within 2 or 3 indoor sessions it had a lot of sheath damage as well as some areas where the sheath was quite scorched. We checked quickdraws really carefully and could find no obvious damage. This isn't a problem that the wall has in a general sense as other ropes have not suffered this issue. Friends have had similar problems recently with Beal ropes which have only been used for climbing outside. My rope was sent back to Beal and then returned to me saying that the damage was due to wear and tear and that it must be retired. In 25+ years of climbing I have never seen damage occur to a rope in this way without an obvious cause. I for one won't be buying another Beal rope anytime soon. I'd buy the edelrid.

James

In reply to toshkas:

I have had several beal and edelrid ropes. My beal boost 9.8 used for sport climbing outside has comfortably outlasted my edelrid 10.4? which has only been used indoors. Currently using a Beal Diablo which is wearing very well and have a pair of beal 8.6 half ropes for outdoors. My edelrid half ropes lasted for a good three years of trad use.
The beal is better to handle, and the sheath seems to wear better than the edelrid, which has gone all soft and fluffy.
I am no recommendation as, being a Yorkshireman I am always looking for the best deal. (Bergfreunde? have some good deals and are very quick!)

In reply to toshkas:

I've had three Edlingers (bought the most recent two months ago), all used indoors predominantly. They take a load of abuse, and are a decent rope for the money. Not used a Python, but my half ropes are Edelrid, and have lasted 3 years with very few signs of wear, and still handle well.

In reply to james mann:


Interesting. I recently replaced a Beal Yuji (which had taken maybe a year of abuse and, although now stiff and trimmed down is still usable) with a new Beal Yuji. In 6 weekends of use one end is showing core and the other end stripped the sheath in a fall. It's on my to-do list to return but, like you, have never seen wear like it and suspect something has changed with their materials or manufacturing recently.

In reply to Justin T:

Friends of mine had one of the unicorn sport ropes and used it for a single weeks trip away and it ended up just like yours. The sheath appeared not to be bonded to the core throughout large portions of the rope.

In reply to toshkas:

Go for Beal,
Both my son and I have got Edlingers and a Yugi - they are very good, the Yugi has been used both indoors and out and taken some real stick, its still good and it aint even dry core.

Thanks to everyone !

In reply to toshkas:

I have just ordered my first rope http://www.bergfreunde.co.uk/mammut-zopa-97-bergfreunde-edition/
Considering as a beginner I don't want to spend a fortune
Will let you know how it goes

Has someone used Roca ropes - FANATIC or thicker rope ?

In reply to nabeelfarid:

What did you think of of the Zopa in the end Nabeel?

In reply to Oldsign:

Its been perfect so far. I have used it a couple of times outdoors and few times indoors

Nabeel

In reply to toshkas:

Go for the elderid or mamut ropes they are more hard wearing.

In reply to nabeelfarid:

Thanks mate. I went and got one in the end. I haven't had chance to use it yet but it seems to knot well etc.

In reply to toshkas:

I have both and prefer the Python by far.

In reply to toshkas:


I've had Edelrid ropes and am happy with them.

I don't think the brand is the main thing though, the main consideration is the diameter and length. If you go 10mm and above it will be heavier, stiffer and more likely to lock up if you pay out fast through a Gri Gri. If you go 9.8mm it will handle better, be less weight for the climber to pull up and easy to feed fast through a GriGri but it will wear faster.

If it was me and I was using an ATC I'd maybe go 10mm, with a GriGri I'd go 9.8mm and probably 60m so I could cut a bit off after the sheath starts to wear and still have more than 50m.

Also, don't worry too much because whatever you choose first you will end up with a rope collection