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UKC Fit Club Week 427
Almost everyone is having blinders this week, (apart from poor broken me) keep it up!
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=615978
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: Open to suggestions this week, I didn't want to just
regurgitate something that has already been posted on UKC and I've not seen many other videos this week. Maybe I should link that video of an Indian guy climbing an ancient ruin in a ridiculous fashion that gets posted to my Facebook timeline at least once a month "Dan's a climber, he'll love this" Eugh.
Last week's posters:
Exile - those 45deg sessions sound intense, how is Countash going?
Mutl3y - 150 press ups, yeah, so weak... More info on diet please!
The Ex-Engineer - Excuse my ignorance but what kind of work gets you to into the hills all week?
Nick Russell - Some awesome ticks! I loved Thread Flintstone, used to be my favourite at the grade
Ian Rock - Careful of taping and climbing, Dave Mac reckons there is no benefit..
hms - really good week, so jealous of Bristol's climbing inside and out
Joyce - Wow, another great, packed week, I don't even know where to start!
mattrm - much better week climbing-wise, good to see you've not abandoned the DIY entirely!
AJM - Stag do sounds amazing, was that run by a company or your mate's creation?
Cheese Monkey - How is the shoulder, do you know precisely what the problem is?
mrchewy - Sorry to hear the wrist is still giving you grief, holding off the trad may be a smart move for now
Joughton - Good week, hope the revision isn't too much of a killer this week...
Dandan82 - How's that boulder shed coming along?
Tyler - Can't knock an enjoyable week!
Ally Smith - Let's hope that's the end of the bad luck, good links despite that!
mbh - still impressive mileage when you can't breathe properly! How was the BGR?
planetmarshall - I'll admit I know little about CrossFit(tm) but have heard some bad things, mostly about technique?
Humperdink - how was the 1500m race?
alexm198 - some good goal-ticking, something I need to do!
Roadrunner5 - are you now tapering for an event?
0.5viking - must be cool to have 7 pitch routes nearby!
Creedence - good to see you getting straight onto more 7a's, don't rest on your laurels!
flopsicle - Welcome back, glad you are getting back into the swing of it
biscuit - I'm in past-tense hell, have/will/did this week go/went as bad as you hope/hoped?
AWOL Just Tintin, Luke Owens, Lancer, JayK, willi crater
Almost everyone is having blinders this week, (apart from poor broken me) keep it up!
Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=615978
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video this week: Open to suggestions this week, I didn't want to just
regurgitate something that has already been posted on UKC and I've not seen many other videos this week. Maybe I should link that video of an Indian guy climbing an ancient ruin in a ridiculous fashion that gets posted to my Facebook timeline at least once a month "Dan's a climber, he'll love this" Eugh.
Last week's posters:
Exile - those 45deg sessions sound intense, how is Countash going?
Mutl3y - 150 press ups, yeah, so weak... More info on diet please!
The Ex-Engineer - Excuse my ignorance but what kind of work gets you to into the hills all week?
Nick Russell - Some awesome ticks! I loved Thread Flintstone, used to be my favourite at the grade
Ian Rock - Careful of taping and climbing, Dave Mac reckons there is no benefit..
hms - really good week, so jealous of Bristol's climbing inside and out
Joyce - Wow, another great, packed week, I don't even know where to start!
mattrm - much better week climbing-wise, good to see you've not abandoned the DIY entirely!
AJM - Stag do sounds amazing, was that run by a company or your mate's creation?
Cheese Monkey - How is the shoulder, do you know precisely what the problem is?
mrchewy - Sorry to hear the wrist is still giving you grief, holding off the trad may be a smart move for now
Joughton - Good week, hope the revision isn't too much of a killer this week...
Dandan82 - How's that boulder shed coming along?
Tyler - Can't knock an enjoyable week!
Ally Smith - Let's hope that's the end of the bad luck, good links despite that!
mbh - still impressive mileage when you can't breathe properly! How was the BGR?
planetmarshall - I'll admit I know little about CrossFit(tm) but have heard some bad things, mostly about technique?
Humperdink - how was the 1500m race?
alexm198 - some good goal-ticking, something I need to do!
Roadrunner5 - are you now tapering for an event?
0.5viking - must be cool to have 7 pitch routes nearby!
Creedence - good to see you getting straight onto more 7a's, don't rest on your laurels!
flopsicle - Welcome back, glad you are getting back into the swing of it
biscuit - I'm in past-tense hell, have/will/did this week go/went as bad as you hope/hoped?
AWOL Just Tintin, Luke Owens, Lancer, JayK, willi crater
In reply to Dandan: Revision's been a bit of a mare this week so I haven't had time for much else, just cramming!
Had my practical/clinical exam on Thursday so gave myself the rest of the day of and went climbing but it wasn't a great session, think my head was still a bit frazzled. Managed a 7a+ in the roof which I'd been trying for a couple of sessions though which I was happy with. Finished with some a good core stuff.
My exams are on Tuesday and Wednesday, and then I've got three months of holiday, so I just need to keep going a little bit longer!
Cheers, Jake
Had my practical/clinical exam on Thursday so gave myself the rest of the day of and went climbing but it wasn't a great session, think my head was still a bit frazzled. Managed a 7a+ in the roof which I'd been trying for a couple of sessions though which I was happy with. Finished with some a good core stuff.
My exams are on Tuesday and Wednesday, and then I've got three months of holiday, so I just need to keep going a little bit longer!
Cheers, Jake
In reply to Dandan:
I'm a Mountaineering Instructor and work freelance doing stuff that varies from fairly cool (Skye scrambles, teaching lead climbing) to fairly pedestrian (supervising school kids on DofE expeditions).
M - working late
T - Boulder @ TCA - 20 blues. Got bogged down working a few of the harder ones.
W - Boulder @ Brookes - Playing on new blocs, fairly unstructured.
T - Boulder @ Huntsham Crags - Big posse including Nick R. and Joyce. Working Ames Low (f7A+). Good progress, two overlapping sections.
F - rest
S- Boulder @ Huntsham Crags - Late session. Worked moves and refined my sequence on Ames Low (f7A+) for 1 hour after work and before it got completely dark. Finding the end span V Hard, all the other moves are fairly OK.
S - work & rest (no skin!)
Keen to get back to Huntsham in the coming week. A day sport climbing would be good and I will hopefully get climbing in the Peak on Saturday en-route to Scotland for work the following week.
I'm a Mountaineering Instructor and work freelance doing stuff that varies from fairly cool (Skye scrambles, teaching lead climbing) to fairly pedestrian (supervising school kids on DofE expeditions).
M - working late
T - Boulder @ TCA - 20 blues. Got bogged down working a few of the harder ones.
W - Boulder @ Brookes - Playing on new blocs, fairly unstructured.
T - Boulder @ Huntsham Crags - Big posse including Nick R. and Joyce. Working Ames Low (f7A+). Good progress, two overlapping sections.
F - rest
S- Boulder @ Huntsham Crags - Late session. Worked moves and refined my sequence on Ames Low (f7A+) for 1 hour after work and before it got completely dark. Finding the end span V Hard, all the other moves are fairly OK.
S - work & rest (no skin!)
Keen to get back to Huntsham in the coming week. A day sport climbing would be good and I will hopefully get climbing in the Peak on Saturday en-route to Scotland for work the following week.
Post edited at 16:55
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fitclub, Dan. This week was a bit full-on for D2 with exams, so I had to rather tiptoe between them for my sessions. Think I got a lot done though.
M - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, ~14 circuits. Spent a lot of time getting frustrated at some new circuits in the cave - a 6c with a stupid hard downhill move at the end and a 7a that I was struggling to link more than a couple of moves on. Mind you, it is the 45degree board, so super pumpy.
T - cycle commute. S&C x 2.
W - cycle commute, 2 mile walk, S&C x 3
T - sneaky before work session at UCR on the upstairs circuits. Dozen in an hour, inc 7ax3. Also a quick go on the 7b in pieces but too late in the session to make much progress. 3 mile walk.
F - coaching session with Ben. I had organised with him to go to Cheddar, but the morning was grey drizzle so ended up being indoors after all. Good session, including routes, some PE problems with big big moves on and some custom circuits. Reallt tired by the end. 3 mile walk. S&C x 3
S - 5 mile walking (a 2 and a 3).
S - Redpoint. First time for ages, so pretty much just onsighting. Lots of ~6c type core things, plus a good go at a 7a+, then a session working the top of the 7a+ which has some v tricky foot placements. Good session. Keep saying I should go the Redpoint more often as the style is so different to UCR.
All the walking is because D2 has discovered that walking and going through exam revision with me reading out the sylabus sheet work v well together. Wish the font was bigger though.
Thanks for doing fitclub, Dan. This week was a bit full-on for D2 with exams, so I had to rather tiptoe between them for my sessions. Think I got a lot done though.
M - cycle commute, cycle on to UCR, ~14 circuits. Spent a lot of time getting frustrated at some new circuits in the cave - a 6c with a stupid hard downhill move at the end and a 7a that I was struggling to link more than a couple of moves on. Mind you, it is the 45degree board, so super pumpy.
T - cycle commute. S&C x 2.
W - cycle commute, 2 mile walk, S&C x 3
T - sneaky before work session at UCR on the upstairs circuits. Dozen in an hour, inc 7ax3. Also a quick go on the 7b in pieces but too late in the session to make much progress. 3 mile walk.
F - coaching session with Ben. I had organised with him to go to Cheddar, but the morning was grey drizzle so ended up being indoors after all. Good session, including routes, some PE problems with big big moves on and some custom circuits. Reallt tired by the end. 3 mile walk. S&C x 3
S - 5 mile walking (a 2 and a 3).
S - Redpoint. First time for ages, so pretty much just onsighting. Lots of ~6c type core things, plus a good go at a 7a+, then a session working the top of the 7a+ which has some v tricky foot placements. Good session. Keep saying I should go the Redpoint more often as the style is so different to UCR.
All the walking is because D2 has discovered that walking and going through exam revision with me reading out the sylabus sheet work v well together. Wish the font was bigger though.
In reply to Dandan:
Fairly standard week, feel like I've settled back into regular training pretty well now. Easy runs didn't seem to bother the legs too much which was promising. Couple of sessions bouldering felt unproductive though, as I've done everything that's within my reach on the current set of problems.
M: Rest
T: 7.61km/201m trail. HR zone 1, took it nice and slow to see how the leg was and made a conscious effort to strike with forefoot. Felt good.
W: 2h bouldering at Llangorse. Wall was mobbed with kids (pretty standard), so it was difficult to be structured. Worked an ungraded traverse line (spoke to a regular who'd done it and he reckoned it was about 6b+/6c). Made all the moves bar one.
T: 12.01km/352m trail. HR zone 3. Tough keeping up the pace but it was actually really nice to just give it some gas rather than trying to stay in zone 1 all the time.
F: Short-lived evening climbing at Dinas Rock. Given a quick tour of the crag by a mate, did a 6b which I found steady apart from one stopper move. Ran away to avoid being eaten alive by midges.
S: 1h30 S&C circuits, core routine to warm up followed by some hangs, pushups for the elbow and wall-squats.
S: Planned another strength session but decided to rest after a mental day at work and in anticipation of 4 days climbing next week.
Last week's goals: 2 sessions climbing Sort of tick, not sure you can call one 6b a 'session' but it's better than nothing... pay attention to the elbow and warm down with some pushups after each session. Tick, pulled pretty hard on Wednesday and there were no issues 2 runs, no more than 20km in total. Tick 2 circuit sessions. Nope.
This week's goals: 4 days climbing in N. Wales, tick Superdirect on Milestone Buttress. 2 runs, aim for about 20-25km again.
Fairly standard week, feel like I've settled back into regular training pretty well now. Easy runs didn't seem to bother the legs too much which was promising. Couple of sessions bouldering felt unproductive though, as I've done everything that's within my reach on the current set of problems.
M: Rest
T: 7.61km/201m trail. HR zone 1, took it nice and slow to see how the leg was and made a conscious effort to strike with forefoot. Felt good.
W: 2h bouldering at Llangorse. Wall was mobbed with kids (pretty standard), so it was difficult to be structured. Worked an ungraded traverse line (spoke to a regular who'd done it and he reckoned it was about 6b+/6c). Made all the moves bar one.
T: 12.01km/352m trail. HR zone 3. Tough keeping up the pace but it was actually really nice to just give it some gas rather than trying to stay in zone 1 all the time.
F: Short-lived evening climbing at Dinas Rock. Given a quick tour of the crag by a mate, did a 6b which I found steady apart from one stopper move. Ran away to avoid being eaten alive by midges.
S: 1h30 S&C circuits, core routine to warm up followed by some hangs, pushups for the elbow and wall-squats.
S: Planned another strength session but decided to rest after a mental day at work and in anticipation of 4 days climbing next week.
Last week's goals: 2 sessions climbing Sort of tick, not sure you can call one 6b a 'session' but it's better than nothing... pay attention to the elbow and warm down with some pushups after each session. Tick, pulled pretty hard on Wednesday and there were no issues 2 runs, no more than 20km in total. Tick 2 circuit sessions. Nope.
This week's goals: 4 days climbing in N. Wales, tick Superdirect on Milestone Buttress. 2 runs, aim for about 20-25km again.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks to me for doing the stats, the boulder shed is nearly there! It's watertight, just needs a few of the inner panels putting up and the shingles on the roof, then it will be time to set some problems!
M:
T:
W: Boulder, indoor: nothing structured, just various problems, ended up working a V8 and V9
T: Strength and Conditioning
F: Boulder shed, fitting exterior panels until 9.30
S: Boulder shed, t-nutting and refitting roof panels, insulating, generally exhausting myself
S: Boulder shed, front face, door, mounting campus board, much easier day
Good times this week, I went for a boulder on Wednesday, thinking I might push on just a little further than last week, maybe do a couple of V3/4 problems. I got warmed up, started working through some problems (only one wall has been reset and I flashed all of them, sigh), everything felt good so I got on some harder bits, eventually ended up working a V8 and V9 and making decent progress! Elbows felt fine, I was really pleased!
Got one S&C session in, so a grand total of 2 training sessions this week, but with the boulder shed DIY as well, i'm happy with that.
We are off to Portland tomorrow though which I am really looking forward to. Just like last week, the elbows didn't enjoy the DIY so I took it steady today, hoping they are ok for some proper climbing tomorrow, Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+) and me have some business to finish.
I saw the physio on Friday, it was only a half hour session and mostly spent chatting about my elbows, i'm going back next Friday, she is confident that she can methodically pick up on weaknesses, imbalances and overuse and work through them all to a good solution. I really liked her attitude to the whole thing so i'm hopeful we can make some progress.
Goals for next week are another positive indoor session and 2 S&C.
Thanks to me for doing the stats, the boulder shed is nearly there! It's watertight, just needs a few of the inner panels putting up and the shingles on the roof, then it will be time to set some problems!
M:
T:
W: Boulder, indoor: nothing structured, just various problems, ended up working a V8 and V9
T: Strength and Conditioning
F: Boulder shed, fitting exterior panels until 9.30
S: Boulder shed, t-nutting and refitting roof panels, insulating, generally exhausting myself
S: Boulder shed, front face, door, mounting campus board, much easier day
Good times this week, I went for a boulder on Wednesday, thinking I might push on just a little further than last week, maybe do a couple of V3/4 problems. I got warmed up, started working through some problems (only one wall has been reset and I flashed all of them, sigh), everything felt good so I got on some harder bits, eventually ended up working a V8 and V9 and making decent progress! Elbows felt fine, I was really pleased!
Got one S&C session in, so a grand total of 2 training sessions this week, but with the boulder shed DIY as well, i'm happy with that.
We are off to Portland tomorrow though which I am really looking forward to. Just like last week, the elbows didn't enjoy the DIY so I took it steady today, hoping they are ok for some proper climbing tomorrow, Zinc Oxide Mountain (7b+) and me have some business to finish.
I saw the physio on Friday, it was only a half hour session and mostly spent chatting about my elbows, i'm going back next Friday, she is confident that she can methodically pick up on weaknesses, imbalances and overuse and work through them all to a good solution. I really liked her attitude to the whole thing so i'm hopeful we can make some progress.
Goals for next week are another positive indoor session and 2 S&C.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dandan!
Mon - bog all!
Tues - 3.5 miles running
Weds - 3 miles running. 1.5 hrs lead climbing/ropes
Thurs - 6 mile bike ride with daughter. Edited to add + epic fight with roof rackage and bike kit, it has to go on, it damn near killed me off!
Fri - 3 miles running but bailed after horrible stitch! second bash at NCC Boulder comp problems, shed loads of fallng off!
Sat - 1hr bouldering, still mopping up SBL probs, only actually got up 1 further climb but did consolidate many fails...
Sun - 2 hrs dragon boat paddling - got worked really hard with race prep. Then I got one of my 2015 goals - 100 laps on the auto belay, all on routes. I actually did 49 on an easy 4 plus 58 on a 5+ - 107 in total. Deducting 7 ft for my height and top hold I climbed 2140ft.
I'm not uber pleased as I would have preferred 2 5+. I think using just one route is a bit daft and even more boring, 2 routes give me a rest from the individual moves if that makes sense.
Off to Mablethorpe till Fri so won't be doing a damn thing apart from kiddy bike rides...
Thanks Dandan!
Mon - bog all!
Tues - 3.5 miles running
Weds - 3 miles running. 1.5 hrs lead climbing/ropes
Thurs - 6 mile bike ride with daughter. Edited to add + epic fight with roof rackage and bike kit, it has to go on, it damn near killed me off!
Fri - 3 miles running but bailed after horrible stitch! second bash at NCC Boulder comp problems, shed loads of fallng off!
Sat - 1hr bouldering, still mopping up SBL probs, only actually got up 1 further climb but did consolidate many fails...
Sun - 2 hrs dragon boat paddling - got worked really hard with race prep. Then I got one of my 2015 goals - 100 laps on the auto belay, all on routes. I actually did 49 on an easy 4 plus 58 on a 5+ - 107 in total. Deducting 7 ft for my height and top hold I climbed 2140ft.
I'm not uber pleased as I would have preferred 2 5+. I think using just one route is a bit daft and even more boring, 2 routes give me a rest from the individual moves if that makes sense.
Off to Mablethorpe till Fri so won't be doing a damn thing apart from kiddy bike rides...
Post edited at 21:13
In reply to Dandan:
Best man plus a few others. A fantastic job. I'm not sure a commercial company would have put the weird and wonderful mix of drinks into the bottles that accompanied each clue!
Been up in Scotland since Friday. Got some trad in, still feeling pretty rusty but getting there slowly, and some bouldering including a 6c and tried some harder stuff. Finger feeling ok except on the harder crimps. Couple of days left. Shame the mountain crags are a bit snowy really...
During the week I had a shit session, tired and wasted. An ok session too although details escape me.
Really good bike session feeling strong and going fast plus improving tactics (eating and drinking on the move mainly). Good prep for this potential 100miler in August to get the tactics down.
> AJM - Stag do sounds amazing, was that run by a company or your mate's creation?
Best man plus a few others. A fantastic job. I'm not sure a commercial company would have put the weird and wonderful mix of drinks into the bottles that accompanied each clue!
Been up in Scotland since Friday. Got some trad in, still feeling pretty rusty but getting there slowly, and some bouldering including a 6c and tried some harder stuff. Finger feeling ok except on the harder crimps. Couple of days left. Shame the mountain crags are a bit snowy really...
During the week I had a shit session, tired and wasted. An ok session too although details escape me.
Really good bike session feeling strong and going fast plus improving tactics (eating and drinking on the move mainly). Good prep for this potential 100miler in August to get the tactics down.
In reply to Dandan:
Morning Campers,
This week picked up as it went along - was busy/distracted/subconciously stressed organising a big project at work for Wednesday at the start of the week. Then things calmed down and the climbing picked up!
Training Diary WC 18/5/15
Project ‘Loop’ – ish (was aiming for volume but I missed on this entirely!)
Monday – Worrrrrkkk! So no fingerboard action – boooo!
Tuesday – TCA – didn’t go well. Intended to do volume but got sucked into the Blue (2nd hardest) circuit. Only managed one or two as got tired quickly and couldn’t pull hard. After a big rest/gossip got an easy Purple (hardest circuit). Should’ve stuck to my original and volumed it up – lesson learned.
Wednesday – Tabata sprints – 10 x 20s sprints with 10s rests – not my best effort but first time in a long time – more beans needed on the ol’ sprinting front next time. A stonking evening though.
Thursday – Standing room only at The Slug! Four good repoint attempts on The Loop, interspersed with great banter, beta and chillin’ with a great bunch of fellas on a multi-coloured sea of mats. Hit my usual Ames Wol span stopper move but felt smoother, steadier and less boxed to that point on each go. Fifth attempt (ambitious) got to the span on Ames High. After a discussion with Reuben, I’m gonna tweak my foot sequence for my ‘lower percentage ninja kick’ Ames Wol span move so it’s more static and doable.
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Trym Valley Gorge. Led Terrorist 7b+: two top rope goes to start, working moves to the second bolt - didn't have any of it sorted at all. Bit peeved at this point as it was all vertical, crimpy, balancy, sequency oddness which I’m normally alright at. However, Ross and Tom worked out a sequence and I led it on my next go - first redpoint - flashing the top half of the route, replete with ridiculous shenanigans while trying to clip from the wrong hold with loads of rope out and it clamped between my teeth. A real confidence boost and my hardest sport redpoint, up from 7a. Got the Send Train rolling too - toot toot!
Sunday – Run: felt heavy legged and hard work but actually did alright. 5.5km in 22:56 including 5 stiles and overtaking a man on a bike while running up the final hill.
Weight = No idea as on holiday.
Goals: will rejiggify these this week – feel I need to as the ‘training’ has slipped recently and I seem to be in ‘get weak for Summer’ mode. Hmmm, will have a think on this.
Good to see Nick and the Ex-Engineer out at The Slug!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
This week picked up as it went along - was busy/distracted/subconciously stressed organising a big project at work for Wednesday at the start of the week. Then things calmed down and the climbing picked up!
Training Diary WC 18/5/15
Project ‘Loop’ – ish (was aiming for volume but I missed on this entirely!)
Monday – Worrrrrkkk! So no fingerboard action – boooo!
Tuesday – TCA – didn’t go well. Intended to do volume but got sucked into the Blue (2nd hardest) circuit. Only managed one or two as got tired quickly and couldn’t pull hard. After a big rest/gossip got an easy Purple (hardest circuit). Should’ve stuck to my original and volumed it up – lesson learned.
Wednesday – Tabata sprints – 10 x 20s sprints with 10s rests – not my best effort but first time in a long time – more beans needed on the ol’ sprinting front next time. A stonking evening though.
Thursday – Standing room only at The Slug! Four good repoint attempts on The Loop, interspersed with great banter, beta and chillin’ with a great bunch of fellas on a multi-coloured sea of mats. Hit my usual Ames Wol span stopper move but felt smoother, steadier and less boxed to that point on each go. Fifth attempt (ambitious) got to the span on Ames High. After a discussion with Reuben, I’m gonna tweak my foot sequence for my ‘lower percentage ninja kick’ Ames Wol span move so it’s more static and doable.
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Trym Valley Gorge. Led Terrorist 7b+: two top rope goes to start, working moves to the second bolt - didn't have any of it sorted at all. Bit peeved at this point as it was all vertical, crimpy, balancy, sequency oddness which I’m normally alright at. However, Ross and Tom worked out a sequence and I led it on my next go - first redpoint - flashing the top half of the route, replete with ridiculous shenanigans while trying to clip from the wrong hold with loads of rope out and it clamped between my teeth. A real confidence boost and my hardest sport redpoint, up from 7a. Got the Send Train rolling too - toot toot!
Sunday – Run: felt heavy legged and hard work but actually did alright. 5.5km in 22:56 including 5 stiles and overtaking a man on a bike while running up the final hill.
Weight = No idea as on holiday.
Goals: will rejiggify these this week – feel I need to as the ‘training’ has slipped recently and I seem to be in ‘get weak for Summer’ mode. Hmmm, will have a think on this.
Good to see Nick and the Ex-Engineer out at The Slug!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
How's Thursday evening for you? I'm keen to get down there again too. I may even consider getting a pad if this is going to become a regular thing!
> Keen to get back to Huntsham in the coming week.
How's Thursday evening for you? I'm keen to get down there again too. I may even consider getting a pad if this is going to become a regular thing!
In reply to Dandan:
Ha ha! That's what happens when you post late and you've already done most of the current week whilst talking about the last week.
2 sessions this week. One OUTDOORS! Woo hoo!
Went to work early on Thursday to get a good couple of hours in. I was going to have a go at that an cap thingy. Got called into a '5 minute chat' that went on for an hour and a half. So a quick rush on the auto's. Not bad in the end:
2x5, 2x6a, 2x6b non stop. 5 min rest. 3 and 3/4 non stop on the 7a. 2x6b, 2x6a, 2x5 to cool down. Pooped after that. Not sure where the near 4 repeats of a 7 a came from. Pleased with that.
Went bouldering at Stony Bank on Saturday. Sunny day, nice walk in, beautiful place, doggies running around and a nice pack up = perfect day. First time on natural grit for years and years. Anything crimpy= good. Anything slopey=bad. Flashed up to V4 and failed miserably on some up to V4. Had a go on a V7 that feels do able, but conditions need to be cooler. It's very rough, large grained grit, almost granite like and you either stick or you don't. Amazing to get out again.
Hopefully this week will see 3 sessions. Fingers crossed.
Ha ha! That's what happens when you post late and you've already done most of the current week whilst talking about the last week.
2 sessions this week. One OUTDOORS! Woo hoo!
Went to work early on Thursday to get a good couple of hours in. I was going to have a go at that an cap thingy. Got called into a '5 minute chat' that went on for an hour and a half. So a quick rush on the auto's. Not bad in the end:
2x5, 2x6a, 2x6b non stop. 5 min rest. 3 and 3/4 non stop on the 7a. 2x6b, 2x6a, 2x5 to cool down. Pooped after that. Not sure where the near 4 repeats of a 7 a came from. Pleased with that.
Went bouldering at Stony Bank on Saturday. Sunny day, nice walk in, beautiful place, doggies running around and a nice pack up = perfect day. First time on natural grit for years and years. Anything crimpy= good. Anything slopey=bad. Flashed up to V4 and failed miserably on some up to V4. Had a go on a V7 that feels do able, but conditions need to be cooler. It's very rough, large grained grit, almost granite like and you either stick or you don't. Amazing to get out again.
Hopefully this week will see 3 sessions. Fingers crossed.
1
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers for doing FC Dan. Interesting to hear that Dave Mac reckons there is no benefit to taping, tried it a couple of times this week and definitely felt some support and less pain - but that could have been psychological. One of the side benefits of the injury has been that is forcing me to use better footwork and adopt an open handed style (I used to crimp and over grip pretty much everything).
Pretty happy this week considering.
M - Cycle commute. Swim 200m warm up, 600m front crawl / breast stroke. Haven't been swimming for a while, so eased my way back in.
T - CC. Evening Run - 6.4km @80% max heart rate.
W - CC. Climbing Routes - mix of stuff up to 5+. Failed on a couple of new routes that required a momentary hang from the right hand, I'm sure there is another way to climb them though so will have another go.
T - CC. Evening Run - 6.2km. Found a small hidden country park that has a good mix of hills that is great for running round. Tried to keep below 80% HR but inevitably went over this quite a few times - didn't do my recovery any harm so all's good!
F - CC. Rest / walk.
S - 8km run. Was going for a curry in the evening so felt the need to give myself some negative calories before hand.
S - Routes at Pinnacle - again just a random mix of stuff whilst the finger heals. Surprised myself on a route that uses a lot of slopers and corner friction moves, not my style and always felt on the edge of coming off - but didn't! Got spat out on a 5+ on the back slabs that seems under graded, very thin and reachy (and I'm 6'2") with small crimps and no clear alternative way to attack it. Will need to get some beta to see how other folk approach it.
Also signed up for a Sprint Triathlon. It's in open water and at the proper distances, rather than a beginner-lite version. Got till September, but have already felt a pang of nervousness - the slowest 5km run times for last year are equal to my fastest effort and I had the benefit of not doing an 800m swim and 20km bike ride before hand!
Coming last is NOT an option!!!
Cheers for doing FC Dan. Interesting to hear that Dave Mac reckons there is no benefit to taping, tried it a couple of times this week and definitely felt some support and less pain - but that could have been psychological. One of the side benefits of the injury has been that is forcing me to use better footwork and adopt an open handed style (I used to crimp and over grip pretty much everything).
Pretty happy this week considering.
M - Cycle commute. Swim 200m warm up, 600m front crawl / breast stroke. Haven't been swimming for a while, so eased my way back in.
T - CC. Evening Run - 6.4km @80% max heart rate.
W - CC. Climbing Routes - mix of stuff up to 5+. Failed on a couple of new routes that required a momentary hang from the right hand, I'm sure there is another way to climb them though so will have another go.
T - CC. Evening Run - 6.2km. Found a small hidden country park that has a good mix of hills that is great for running round. Tried to keep below 80% HR but inevitably went over this quite a few times - didn't do my recovery any harm so all's good!
F - CC. Rest / walk.
S - 8km run. Was going for a curry in the evening so felt the need to give myself some negative calories before hand.
S - Routes at Pinnacle - again just a random mix of stuff whilst the finger heals. Surprised myself on a route that uses a lot of slopers and corner friction moves, not my style and always felt on the edge of coming off - but didn't! Got spat out on a 5+ on the back slabs that seems under graded, very thin and reachy (and I'm 6'2") with small crimps and no clear alternative way to attack it. Will need to get some beta to see how other folk approach it.
Also signed up for a Sprint Triathlon. It's in open water and at the proper distances, rather than a beginner-lite version. Got till September, but have already felt a pang of nervousness - the slowest 5km run times for last year are equal to my fastest effort and I had the benefit of not doing an 800m swim and 20km bike ride before hand!
Coming last is NOT an option!!!
In reply to Ian Rock:
I found tape around the joint itself useful in order to mummify the finger to stop it bending, to give no option but to be completely open hand.
I found tape around the joint itself useful in order to mummify the finger to stop it bending, to give no option but to be completely open hand.
2
In reply to Dandan:
I'm on holiday in the Lakes this week so I'll post twice when I get back. okish week last week. Still a long way to before my trad head is back on tho. Training with John Kettle which I'm looking forward to.
I'm on holiday in the Lakes this week so I'll post twice when I get back. okish week last week. Still a long way to before my trad head is back on tho. Training with John Kettle which I'm looking forward to.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks for doing fitclub Dan. Are you planning on posting pictures of the bouldershed? It sounds awesome to have a wall in the backyard! It is really nice to have such routes nearby, in the neighbouring valley of the 7 pitch route there are some 10 pitch routes and we even have a big wall, which is on the wish list, but that’s one for the really long term (say 3 years). Have my last exam this week, so time for some goals again.
STG (this week): get an outdoor session in before I go ‘home’ (to the Netherlands, so no outdoor climbing there) for the holidays
MTG (summer): climb more outside –> definitely an improvement compared to last year.
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade) –> also considered this as ticked, have either onsighted or flashed the 6’s I did, although I fell on a 6- this week.
weight: 68/70 kg -> hovering between 70,5 and 71, pleased enough with that.
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7 or 7+ outside
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
Climb all the routes on duelifjell (2 pitch trad on slab up to 5+)
Weight: 70.4kg
M: bouldering indoors, managed to flash an orange (medium) problem, and then went to try a 6B+, which I almost flashed, got it third go. Some core and campussing afterwards, managed to campus up the half balls.
T: upperbody strength training
W: climbing indoors, autobelay up to 6b+, incl 2 6a’s onsight
T: climbing outdoors, went to the crag where a friend of mine wanted to open a route. I fell off at the crux in every linked try, to me the crux felt like a 6B/+ boulder problem, he thought it was harder, but didn’t want to overgrade, so he put the route as f7a, does that sound reasonable?
F: rest
S: bouldering/climbing indoors: repeated every boulder in the yellow, red and hearts circuit (5-6B) and tried an orange 7+ on the autobelay afterwards and reached a new highpoint.
S: rest/walk
Thanks for doing fitclub Dan. Are you planning on posting pictures of the bouldershed? It sounds awesome to have a wall in the backyard! It is really nice to have such routes nearby, in the neighbouring valley of the 7 pitch route there are some 10 pitch routes and we even have a big wall, which is on the wish list, but that’s one for the really long term (say 3 years). Have my last exam this week, so time for some goals again.
STG (this week): get an outdoor session in before I go ‘home’ (to the Netherlands, so no outdoor climbing there) for the holidays
MTG (summer): climb more outside –> definitely an improvement compared to last year.
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade) –> also considered this as ticked, have either onsighted or flashed the 6’s I did, although I fell on a 6- this week.
weight: 68/70 kg -> hovering between 70,5 and 71, pleased enough with that.
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7 or 7+ outside
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
Climb all the routes on duelifjell (2 pitch trad on slab up to 5+)
Weight: 70.4kg
M: bouldering indoors, managed to flash an orange (medium) problem, and then went to try a 6B+, which I almost flashed, got it third go. Some core and campussing afterwards, managed to campus up the half balls.
T: upperbody strength training
W: climbing indoors, autobelay up to 6b+, incl 2 6a’s onsight
T: climbing outdoors, went to the crag where a friend of mine wanted to open a route. I fell off at the crux in every linked try, to me the crux felt like a 6B/+ boulder problem, he thought it was harder, but didn’t want to overgrade, so he put the route as f7a, does that sound reasonable?
F: rest
S: bouldering/climbing indoors: repeated every boulder in the yellow, red and hearts circuit (5-6B) and tried an orange 7+ on the autobelay afterwards and reached a new highpoint.
S: rest/walk
In reply to Dandan:
Hi dandan,
Yeah 150 press ups is pretty weak relatively. The diet....lets just say I'm working on it. My ideal is inspired/influenced by the ideas in China Study, Forks over Knives, Esseltyn, Macdougal etc. basically saying that plant based minimum oils, minimum process is the best diet and that things like heart disease are eliminated where this is followed. I'm sure they are right but it is fairly extreme. And as I am working out, trying to vaguely follow the ideal diet is no substitute for eating pretty much anything but being really strict with calories. It's been an eye opener reading about it tho.
Training notes:
M-150 press, 60 leg raises, 60 pull ups
T-150 press ups. Stomach sore from M.
W-nowt
T-works session. On the yellows. Struggled. I think I did all of them in under an hour a while ago. This time I didn't get half that done. Very weak.
F,S,S - no training. Lots of domestic stuff.
Aims - realistically, if I can find my training mojo again before the end of June it will a triumph.
Cheers
Hi dandan,
Yeah 150 press ups is pretty weak relatively. The diet....lets just say I'm working on it. My ideal is inspired/influenced by the ideas in China Study, Forks over Knives, Esseltyn, Macdougal etc. basically saying that plant based minimum oils, minimum process is the best diet and that things like heart disease are eliminated where this is followed. I'm sure they are right but it is fairly extreme. And as I am working out, trying to vaguely follow the ideal diet is no substitute for eating pretty much anything but being really strict with calories. It's been an eye opener reading about it tho.
Training notes:
M-150 press, 60 leg raises, 60 pull ups
T-150 press ups. Stomach sore from M.
W-nowt
T-works session. On the yellows. Struggled. I think I did all of them in under an hour a while ago. This time I didn't get half that done. Very weak.
F,S,S - no training. Lots of domestic stuff.
Aims - realistically, if I can find my training mojo again before the end of June it will a triumph.
Cheers
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks, Flintstone was great. Really enjoyed that day at Torbryan. What's your new favourite at the grade?
M - 3km run, fingerboard session
T - Bouldering at TCA. Probably there at the same time as Joyce but didn't recognise him then! Working through the blue circuit on '3 strikes' rules - really good to get me thinking about the problem before jumping on.
W - Cheddar, Ginsberg Wall. Climbed a really good, technical 7b called Ripe Old Age. Quite a lot of work on the first time up, but I got it first RP.
T - The Mighty 'Sham, with our very own Joyce. Great bit of rock, that Sliced Slug. Made decent progress on Ames Low (thanks to the excellent beta from Joyce and the sea of pads). It could go next time, if I'm on form and well rested.
F - Rest.
S - Portland. A few routes at Cheyne Wears including Julie Ocean - bouldery 6c+. Moved to Coastguard South in the evening and had a go on Full Fathom Five (7b). Very hard crux at the top, and I was a bit too tired. Gave it a good shot, but it's now one to come back to.
S - Portland, Blacknor South. Just about dragged myself up Medusa Falls (7a) after a lot of work. Tired, sore skin. Drove back to Bristol when the drizzle started.
A lot of climbing this week, and some good variety but not enough rest recently. I was out climbing again today, but I feel like I'm now (over)due a couple of days off. Huntsham was great, and I'm keen to go back!
Assorted goals:
Trad routes at E4
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 3; Clean onsight: 3
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Get stronger
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer (Tick this week). Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.
Sort out the asymmetry (ongoing)
> Nick Russell - Some awesome ticks! I loved Thread Flintstone, used to be my favourite at the grade
Thanks, Flintstone was great. Really enjoyed that day at Torbryan. What's your new favourite at the grade?
M - 3km run, fingerboard session
T - Bouldering at TCA. Probably there at the same time as Joyce but didn't recognise him then! Working through the blue circuit on '3 strikes' rules - really good to get me thinking about the problem before jumping on.
W - Cheddar, Ginsberg Wall. Climbed a really good, technical 7b called Ripe Old Age. Quite a lot of work on the first time up, but I got it first RP.
T - The Mighty 'Sham, with our very own Joyce. Great bit of rock, that Sliced Slug. Made decent progress on Ames Low (thanks to the excellent beta from Joyce and the sea of pads). It could go next time, if I'm on form and well rested.
F - Rest.
S - Portland. A few routes at Cheyne Wears including Julie Ocean - bouldery 6c+. Moved to Coastguard South in the evening and had a go on Full Fathom Five (7b). Very hard crux at the top, and I was a bit too tired. Gave it a good shot, but it's now one to come back to.
S - Portland, Blacknor South. Just about dragged myself up Medusa Falls (7a) after a lot of work. Tired, sore skin. Drove back to Bristol when the drizzle started.
A lot of climbing this week, and some good variety but not enough rest recently. I was out climbing again today, but I feel like I'm now (over)due a couple of days off. Huntsham was great, and I'm keen to go back!
Assorted goals:
There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
Attempted: 3; Clean onsight: 3
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer (Tick this week). Dedicate some time to this over winter.
Write a training app for the fingerboard.
In reply to Dandan:
Last week I predicted that “Things can only get better…”
That has been completely disproved with the appearance of a chesty cough and finger tweak; F*ck, f*ck and double f*ck!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger.
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough
- Finish bolting/cleaning Orme project (still needs a belay and maybe an extra runner).
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C (maybe do a comparative foot-on campus test if feeling better?)
- Aim for 75.5kg (No change at 76.2kg – ate lots to combat cough)
Last week:
M - Felt frazzled from work, but better after an aero-cap session. 1 on/off foot-on campus x15 sets.
T - Yay! 9hrs at work and head didn’t feel frazzled.
W - Malham after work. Finally sorted out the starting sequence on Straightened, then dropped the 2nd (Baboo) crux like a punter.
T - Orme after work, chesty cough building. Brief Parisella’s boulder upto 7B+, and 2 tie ins on the newbie. Probably a number grade harder than I thought it was going to be…
F - Rest - chest full of crap.
S - Malham. Coughing like a 40 a day for life smoker. Wheezed my way up Straightened and had another play on Straight Jacket. Tweaked ring finger (again!) on pocket of GBH.
S - Rest. Gluttony. Coughing.
M - Back to Malham. Attempted ABH link-up; hard for 8a. SJ still damp. Coughing still.
Last week I predicted that “Things can only get better…”
That has been completely disproved with the appearance of a chesty cough and finger tweak; F*ck, f*ck and double f*ck!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger.
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough
- Finish bolting/cleaning Orme project (still needs a belay and maybe an extra runner).
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C (maybe do a comparative foot-on campus test if feeling better?)
- Aim for 75.5kg (No change at 76.2kg – ate lots to combat cough)
Last week:
M - Felt frazzled from work, but better after an aero-cap session. 1 on/off foot-on campus x15 sets.
T - Yay! 9hrs at work and head didn’t feel frazzled.
W - Malham after work. Finally sorted out the starting sequence on Straightened, then dropped the 2nd (Baboo) crux like a punter.
T - Orme after work, chesty cough building. Brief Parisella’s boulder upto 7B+, and 2 tie ins on the newbie. Probably a number grade harder than I thought it was going to be…
F - Rest - chest full of crap.
S - Malham. Coughing like a 40 a day for life smoker. Wheezed my way up Straightened and had another play on Straight Jacket. Tweaked ring finger (again!) on pocket of GBH.
S - Rest. Gluttony. Coughing.
M - Back to Malham. Attempted ABH link-up; hard for 8a. SJ still damp. Coughing still.
In reply to Ally Smith:
sounds like you were indeed better off not trogging all the way down to Bristol then - hope you throw the cough off soon.
sounds like you were indeed better off not trogging all the way down to Bristol then - hope you throw the cough off soon.
1
In reply to hms:
Yeah - I hope the multiple lie ins/lunchtime starts have given my body the recovery it needs to get over the lurgy
Yeah - I hope the multiple lie ins/lunchtime starts have given my body the recovery it needs to get over the lurgy
In reply to biscuit:
Don't forget the boulder mat sledging! Schlepping up that hill a few times has to go down as some decent cardio.
Don't forget the boulder mat sledging! Schlepping up that hill a few times has to go down as some decent cardio.
In reply to 0.5viking:
I will put some pics up of the boulder shed when it's finished, still got a fair bit of work to do and realistically I can't set any problems until it's completely finished. Another couple of weekends work should do it.
Nick; I had a look through my logbook, I reckon Chanidangersch at Arboli near Siurana was a contender, it was the first time I had climbed a route longer than 35m and the atmosphere just blew my mind.
Then last month, Nickel at sector Kalydna on Kalymnos was just flawless, I think Kalydna could be my favourite sector so far, so much more to go at there.
Also, I just couldn't wait until next week, I've got to mention that my business with Zinc Oxide Mountain was concluded yesterday...
I will put some pics up of the boulder shed when it's finished, still got a fair bit of work to do and realistically I can't set any problems until it's completely finished. Another couple of weekends work should do it.
Nick; I had a look through my logbook, I reckon Chanidangersch at Arboli near Siurana was a contender, it was the first time I had climbed a route longer than 35m and the atmosphere just blew my mind.
Then last month, Nickel at sector Kalydna on Kalymnos was just flawless, I think Kalydna could be my favourite sector so far, so much more to go at there.
Also, I just couldn't wait until next week, I've got to mention that my business with Zinc Oxide Mountain was concluded yesterday...
1
In reply to Dandan:
I enjoyed Nickle too. Probably my best day's climbing ever with 2 7a+ onsights! The other that springs to mind is French Kiss at Boffi. A glorious technical corner with bolting that can only be described as sparse. Got to the point where falling off just wasn't an option so just kept on clinging on & clwing upwards.
I enjoyed Nickle too. Probably my best day's climbing ever with 2 7a+ onsights! The other that springs to mind is French Kiss at Boffi. A glorious technical corner with bolting that can only be described as sparse. Got to the point where falling off just wasn't an option so just kept on clinging on & clwing upwards.
In reply to Dandan:
A mixed week but finished with a great day out on Skye
Mon - Snatch - 5x35kg. 9 sets 3xDeadlift @80kg, 10x over-bar burpees.
Tue - Climbing AW Stockport. 40 mins laps at 6a/5+. 1 route at 6a
Wed - Core
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Climbing @ Neist.
Sun - Trail Run/16km/1359m.
Regarding CrossFit, it's basically High Intensity Interval training (HIIT) with a focus on big compound lifts like the Clean and Press and Snatch, performed in a group. I don't think there's anything intrinsic to CrossFit that promotes bad technique - as with any other discipline it's on the onus of the athlete and the coach to make sure that they choose weights that ensure their technique doesn't suffer when performing high numbers of repetitions.
A mixed week but finished with a great day out on Skye
Mon - Snatch - 5x35kg. 9 sets 3xDeadlift @80kg, 10x over-bar burpees.
Tue - Climbing AW Stockport. 40 mins laps at 6a/5+. 1 route at 6a
Wed - Core
Thu - Rest
Fri - Rest
Sat - Climbing @ Neist.
Sun - Trail Run/16km/1359m.
Regarding CrossFit, it's basically High Intensity Interval training (HIIT) with a focus on big compound lifts like the Clean and Press and Snatch, performed in a group. I don't think there's anything intrinsic to CrossFit that promotes bad technique - as with any other discipline it's on the onus of the athlete and the coach to make sure that they choose weights that ensure their technique doesn't suffer when performing high numbers of repetitions.
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan. Yep, trying to find myself another project to work at. Not too much luck finding regular partners for Dinbren, so didn't make it up there this week. But progress has been made on the house, and moving day is Friday!
M - DIY club
T - Fingerboard. Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+5kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (+4kg), 35° sloper (+1kg).
W - Dyserth Waterfall. 6b to warm up. Then intended to get on a 7a that was miles too hard for me last year so I could compare, but the start was still in the river...
T - Rest/DIY Club
F - Rest
S - Sunny trad in the Moelwyns. Did a great HVS winding it’s way up a quartz slab, giving a stunning 45 metre pitch.
S - More sunny trad. A tough VS, and a soft HVS, mixing it up from yesterday with a steep juggy crag, good fun.
Cheers Dan. Yep, trying to find myself another project to work at. Not too much luck finding regular partners for Dinbren, so didn't make it up there this week. But progress has been made on the house, and moving day is Friday!
M - DIY club
T - Fingerboard. Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+5kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (+4kg), 35° sloper (+1kg).
W - Dyserth Waterfall. 6b to warm up. Then intended to get on a 7a that was miles too hard for me last year so I could compare, but the start was still in the river...
T - Rest/DIY Club
F - Rest
S - Sunny trad in the Moelwyns. Did a great HVS winding it’s way up a quartz slab, giving a stunning 45 metre pitch.
S - More sunny trad. A tough VS, and a soft HVS, mixing it up from yesterday with a steep juggy crag, good fun.
Post edited at 15:06
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan.
Just a minor tweak that's sorted itself out now.
Bloody great week.
M- cycled home fast and cracked straight into 30min run. Good
T- swim before work, diy after
W- New clips fitted to pedals, 1hr cycle in them. So much nicer!
Finished my first proper 7b on the first redpoint!! Guidebook gives it 7b+ n all. Super pleased
T- run before work, bouldering at Ladye bay in the evening. Crap climbing but beautiful setting
F- rest, drove up to Ross on Wye for wedding anniversary. Nice hotel n meal and loads a wine
S- canoeing down Wye. Lovely
S- bouldering at Huntsham. First visit, first V5! Golden Bicep, very cool problem. Ticked loads. Feeling the Huntsham love. 'Spotted' my mate on Appointment with Beer. I'd be keen with some more pads
M- Trad wet dream. Mother Careys Kitchen - no idea why people think it's scary it's bloody great. Warmed up following a VS. Was going to get on Rock Idol but tide wasn't out enough. Got pointed at Brazen Buttress E2 5b, pushing my trad grade. Only bloody CRUISED it. Beautiful climbing, everything flowed so perfectly, so stoked!! Followed mate up Straight Gate which was cool then I danced up Rock Idol to finish. 4 E points and 11* not bad
Total downer on the triathlon plan right now. I want to be out climbing. Not mincing around in a swimming pool. 3 weeks to go thank god
STG- train every day this week at least and no climbing
MTG- triathlon, proper 7b+, more E2- any Avon (not scary) suggestions?
LTG- solid at E2, train climbing again, 7c
Cheers Dan.
Just a minor tweak that's sorted itself out now.
Bloody great week.
M- cycled home fast and cracked straight into 30min run. Good
T- swim before work, diy after
W- New clips fitted to pedals, 1hr cycle in them. So much nicer!
Finished my first proper 7b on the first redpoint!! Guidebook gives it 7b+ n all. Super pleased
T- run before work, bouldering at Ladye bay in the evening. Crap climbing but beautiful setting
F- rest, drove up to Ross on Wye for wedding anniversary. Nice hotel n meal and loads a wine
S- canoeing down Wye. Lovely
S- bouldering at Huntsham. First visit, first V5! Golden Bicep, very cool problem. Ticked loads. Feeling the Huntsham love. 'Spotted' my mate on Appointment with Beer. I'd be keen with some more pads
M- Trad wet dream. Mother Careys Kitchen - no idea why people think it's scary it's bloody great. Warmed up following a VS. Was going to get on Rock Idol but tide wasn't out enough. Got pointed at Brazen Buttress E2 5b, pushing my trad grade. Only bloody CRUISED it. Beautiful climbing, everything flowed so perfectly, so stoked!! Followed mate up Straight Gate which was cool then I danced up Rock Idol to finish. 4 E points and 11* not bad
Total downer on the triathlon plan right now. I want to be out climbing. Not mincing around in a swimming pool. 3 weeks to go thank god
STG- train every day this week at least and no climbing
MTG- triathlon, proper 7b+, more E2- any Avon (not scary) suggestions?
LTG- solid at E2, train climbing again, 7c
1
In reply to Ian Rock:
Ian I feel your pain. I have just resigned myself to coming last in my age group and am going to try and enjoy it as much as possible
Ian I feel your pain. I have just resigned myself to coming last in my age group and am going to try and enjoy it as much as possible
1
In reply to Dandan:
re the BGR - I didn't get up to the Lakes, for the 2nd year running. In fact, I didn't do anything all week, except work, around the clock on meeting deadlines for four courses I am doing, besides the day job. There were 5 deadlines for Sunday night, and if we were to go away it meant getting it all done by Friday am. By midnight Thursday I had all bar one piece done and had high hopes of joining my wife up north, but that piece took me until late Sunday, despite working through night on Thursday and barely skimming the bed for the next two, so no Lakes.
Anyway, for the same reason, and also because I thought it might be good to just rest my ribs completely and help them mend, I didn't run at all.
I've done a couple of 10 mile runs in the last two days, and I ache so much - but I did them!. I have 18 days to go until the 44m Classic Quarter. Eeek!
re the BGR - I didn't get up to the Lakes, for the 2nd year running. In fact, I didn't do anything all week, except work, around the clock on meeting deadlines for four courses I am doing, besides the day job. There were 5 deadlines for Sunday night, and if we were to go away it meant getting it all done by Friday am. By midnight Thursday I had all bar one piece done and had high hopes of joining my wife up north, but that piece took me until late Sunday, despite working through night on Thursday and barely skimming the bed for the next two, so no Lakes.
Anyway, for the same reason, and also because I thought it might be good to just rest my ribs completely and help them mend, I didn't run at all.
I've done a couple of 10 mile runs in the last two days, and I ache so much - but I did them!. I have 18 days to go until the 44m Classic Quarter. Eeek!
Post edited at 20:20
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
New Horizons II & Banshee, Upper Wall.
Lich Gates, Main Wall (more adventurous than the other recommendations).
Earl of Perth/Oblivion combo, SBB.
> Bloody great week.
Sounds it!> S- bouldering at Huntsham. 'Spotted' my mate on Appointment with Beer. I'd be keen with some more pads
Pads? That's a bit lame...> MTG- triathlon, proper 7b+, more E2- any Avon (not scary) suggestions?
Padansac, Sea Walls.New Horizons II & Banshee, Upper Wall.
Lich Gates, Main Wall (more adventurous than the other recommendations).
Earl of Perth/Oblivion combo, SBB.
Post edited at 20:38
In reply to Ally Smith:
It might be lame but I like my legs and I have no shame!
Seconded padansac once, not keen tbh. Fell off banshee several times so yeh, need to sort it. Definitely will get on new horizons though for the onsight at least!
It might be lame but I like my legs and I have no shame!
Seconded padansac once, not keen tbh. Fell off banshee several times so yeh, need to sort it. Definitely will get on new horizons though for the onsight at least!
In reply to Ally Smith:
and not bird-banned this year. According to the RAD the peregrines are nesting somewhere else.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Brilliant week! I think I could see you on Yew Tree Wall on Wednesday. I'd have come over to say hi if I'd known it was you.
> Lich Gates, Main Wall (more adventurous than the other recommendations).
and not bird-banned this year. According to the RAD the peregrines are nesting somewhere else.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Brilliant week! I think I could see you on Yew Tree Wall on Wednesday. I'd have come over to say hi if I'd known it was you.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Yeh I was there! You have a good one? I tried the 7a+ next door to Tell it Like it is afterwards but thought it was a bit rubbish.
Lucy Gates is creeping up in the priority list...
Close to missing my STG already, bloody pool closed. Going to have to run in the dark
Yeh I was there! You have a good one? I tried the 7a+ next door to Tell it Like it is afterwards but thought it was a bit rubbish.
Lucy Gates is creeping up in the priority list...
Close to missing my STG already, bloody pool closed. Going to have to run in the dark
Post edited at 21:22
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
> ...I like my legs and I have no shame!
I dropped off from the lip with no spotters or pads and it was fine (back in the day - piled up autumn leaf litter as pseudo "pad") In reply to Ally Smith:
Have a man point
Was one I'd always thought looked cool but never quite mustered the bottle to try.
Have a man point
Was one I'd always thought looked cool but never quite mustered the bottle to try.
2
In reply to Dandan:
Cheers Dan! Sadly the 1500m race didn't happen (see below):
M: am - 4.5M in 32:56 got soaked
Tu: am - 15min jog to work + strides. As soon as I did the strides my left leg didn't feel right and was painful at the top of my quad/ into my hip flexor. So decided to play safe and not race - DAMN!
W: Rest - went to race anyway as moral support for the wife (who had a really encouraging run 4:38ish for 1500m) and then watched some of my training partners run 3:52, 3:50 and 3:49 for 1500m respectively!! (not that I am anywhere near in that kind of shape - I wish!)
Th: Rest - got v. painful massage on my hip - turns out my tensor facia lata was very tight - ouch!
F: pm - leg feeling much better, did 5/6M steady in 38:41 and a couple of gentle strides so decided to do session on Sat
Sa: Bit of trepidation for the session as didn't know how my leg would be. Grass Session which was: 5x400 (45sec recovery), 4x400 (60 sec recovery), 3x400 (75 sec), 2x400 (90sec), 1x400 with 3mins recovery between the sets. The only hitch in this: the 400's have to get quicker with each set. So for me target was 70secs then get quicker by 2seconds with each new set. times were: 70.4,70.3,69.2,69.0,70.4.... 67.2,68.4,67.2,68.4.... 65.2,65.2,65.7....... 63.2,63.3 - sat the last one out for fear of aggravating my leg. (This turned out to be a good thing as the big boys ran a 57 for the last rep!). Really pleased with how the session went, no reaction from my leg and unlike some I did get quicker as desired. Then "ruined" it by having a night out on London and eating/ drinking too much
Su: Feeling a bit delicate, 70mins v easy 8/9M
Total - only 30M but fortunately the "injury" didn't really turn out to be serious and I lie to fight another day (which fingers crossed will now be Saturday for first track race of the season). Although I've done some good sessions I have no idea what shape I'm in so will be good to get a marker down.
Cheers Dan! Sadly the 1500m race didn't happen (see below):
M: am - 4.5M in 32:56 got soaked
Tu: am - 15min jog to work + strides. As soon as I did the strides my left leg didn't feel right and was painful at the top of my quad/ into my hip flexor. So decided to play safe and not race - DAMN!
W: Rest - went to race anyway as moral support for the wife (who had a really encouraging run 4:38ish for 1500m) and then watched some of my training partners run 3:52, 3:50 and 3:49 for 1500m respectively!! (not that I am anywhere near in that kind of shape - I wish!)
Th: Rest - got v. painful massage on my hip - turns out my tensor facia lata was very tight - ouch!
F: pm - leg feeling much better, did 5/6M steady in 38:41 and a couple of gentle strides so decided to do session on Sat
Sa: Bit of trepidation for the session as didn't know how my leg would be. Grass Session which was: 5x400 (45sec recovery), 4x400 (60 sec recovery), 3x400 (75 sec), 2x400 (90sec), 1x400 with 3mins recovery between the sets. The only hitch in this: the 400's have to get quicker with each set. So for me target was 70secs then get quicker by 2seconds with each new set. times were: 70.4,70.3,69.2,69.0,70.4.... 67.2,68.4,67.2,68.4.... 65.2,65.2,65.7....... 63.2,63.3 - sat the last one out for fear of aggravating my leg. (This turned out to be a good thing as the big boys ran a 57 for the last rep!). Really pleased with how the session went, no reaction from my leg and unlike some I did get quicker as desired. Then "ruined" it by having a night out on London and eating/ drinking too much
Su: Feeling a bit delicate, 70mins v easy 8/9M
Total - only 30M but fortunately the "injury" didn't really turn out to be serious and I lie to fight another day (which fingers crossed will now be Saturday for first track race of the season). Although I've done some good sessions I have no idea what shape I'm in so will be good to get a marker down.
In reply to Dandan:
Thanks Dan, Apologies for AWOL. My aunt died and I had a bit of a rubbish training week, though had come 4th behind Tara Hayes and two junior bouldering team in a Comp the Friday before, which is the only thing worth mentioning. Slow and tired week last week.
M – rest
T – rest
W – Lead Brookes. One fall on 7a so will aim to put that together soon.
T – Lead Brookes. 9 route pyramid to 6b+. Feeling tired.
F – 25 mile road bike.
S – Boulder Apparent North to V3.
S – Mixed Wirksworth. Routes to 6b and bouldering t V4 onsight.
Thanks Dan, Apologies for AWOL. My aunt died and I had a bit of a rubbish training week, though had come 4th behind Tara Hayes and two junior bouldering team in a Comp the Friday before, which is the only thing worth mentioning. Slow and tired week last week.
M – rest
T – rest
W – Lead Brookes. One fall on 7a so will aim to put that together soon.
T – Lead Brookes. 9 route pyramid to 6b+. Feeling tired.
F – 25 mile road bike.
S – Boulder Apparent North to V3.
S – Mixed Wirksworth. Routes to 6b and bouldering t V4 onsight.
In reply to Dandan:
Cool that you´ll be uploading some pictures! Can you already give some details about what kind of walls your planning to build? It seems most people just built an overhanging wall, but a shed sounds like there is place for multiple walls?
Enjoy working on it this weekend!
Cool that you´ll be uploading some pictures! Can you already give some details about what kind of walls your planning to build? It seems most people just built an overhanging wall, but a shed sounds like there is place for multiple walls?
Enjoy working on it this weekend!
In reply to Just Tintin:
My condolences, hope things pick up for you soon.
> Thanks Dan, Apologies for AWOL. My aunt died and I had a bit of a rubbish training week,
My condolences, hope things pick up for you soon.
In reply to Dandan:
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (same)
M - Indoor routes, 1h 30mins
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
F - Rest
S - Bulliber - Routes at Range West
S - Travelled up to the Lakes
Month - 46%
Year 66%
Okish week. Didn't do anything major really. Got to the briefing for Range West. Which is much more amenable than East, lots of routes in my grade range. However Pembroke is generally not feeling too mental these days, I'm getting used to climbing there. Bulliber is an ok crag. Had a big wobble on a HS, my head still isn't in the game. So really going to have to go back to seriously easy routes. But they are dull. So there we go. Really going to have to up things a bit if I want to get my averages for the year above 70% again. Need to hit the diet again so I can get back under 12st.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 2lbs (same)
M - Indoor routes, 1h 30mins
T - 100 dish tucks
W - Rest
T - 100 dish tucks
F - Rest
S - Bulliber - Routes at Range West
S - Travelled up to the Lakes
Month - 46%
Year 66%
Okish week. Didn't do anything major really. Got to the briefing for Range West. Which is much more amenable than East, lots of routes in my grade range. However Pembroke is generally not feeling too mental these days, I'm getting used to climbing there. Bulliber is an ok crag. Had a big wobble on a HS, my head still isn't in the game. So really going to have to go back to seriously easy routes. But they are dull. So there we go. Really going to have to up things a bit if I want to get my averages for the year above 70% again. Need to hit the diet again so I can get back under 12st.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt. Much appreciated. The highlight this week was that I found I could make a chicken - shaped wreath in a moving vehicle on the A34 (my aunt kept chickens), so I'm sure that skill will come in useful at some point...
Thanks Matt. Much appreciated. The highlight this week was that I found I could make a chicken - shaped wreath in a moving vehicle on the A34 (my aunt kept chickens), so I'm sure that skill will come in useful at some point...
In reply to Dandan:
M: I think I went out on my bike
T: BoulderUK
W: Watched Mad Max, well worth it
T: Outhouse, almost managed the White, did all the moves on the pink, due to new foot sequences not strength gains
F: quick bike ride up the coal road, came down the same way
S: Malham, SYT was wet so two goes on Main Overhang, didn't do the moves. Went on SYT as it had dried but skin was gone.
S: Buttermere, walked to Grey Crag but too cold to climb
M: I think I went out on my bike
T: BoulderUK
W: Watched Mad Max, well worth it
T: Outhouse, almost managed the White, did all the moves on the pink, due to new foot sequences not strength gains
F: quick bike ride up the coal road, came down the same way
S: Malham, SYT was wet so two goes on Main Overhang, didn't do the moves. Went on SYT as it had dried but skin was gone.
S: Buttermere, walked to Grey Crag but too cold to climb
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