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Rock shoe recommendations

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 planetmarshall 28 May 2015
Tricky one this, as everyone has their personal preferences and fit, but basically just looking for a few suggestions.

- I currently have 1 pair of rock shoes, a pair of 5.10 Ansazi Guides. These are great for long multipitches and are comfortable for day long use.
- I'm climbing a bit more indoors now, and I find the guides a bit soft for the steep routes.
- The vast majority of my climbing is on grit.
- I had a pair of Scarpa Vapor lace, but found them excrutiatingly uncomfortable.

So looking for 1, maybe 2 recommendations. Mainly for indoors as it's there I find the guides to be a bit deficient, but would be interested if another choice would also be beneficial for the grit.
 galpinos 28 May 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

Aren't the guides quite stiff? They're designed to have your toes flat, not bunched up so you might find they feel a bit clumpy?

I'd say shoes are ore important outdoors than indoors. For indoors, the holds are generally pretty big so you can get away with less technical/sensitive shoes. Outdoors, on grit, I climb in pinks.
 Skyfall 28 May 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

I've been using La Sportiva Miuras (lace up) for a few years now and love them as a medium stiffness precise technical shoe. Fitting them is interesting; as with all La Sportivas you need to drop several shoe sizes (I hover around a 42 whereas my street shoe size is 44.5). They are a bit of an odd shape and take a while to break your foot into (!) but I have found them very comfortable, even on multi-pitch, once they are broken in. As lace-ups, I guess they aren't that quick to take on and off but they're not too bad as it's a sort of speed lacing system and I can wear mine for a full wall session/long route without any trouble anyway (and I'd say I wear mine quite snug). They must fit narrow/low volume feet ok (i.e. mine) but I would guess tolerate a wide range due to being lace-ups. Excellent for trad, sports climbing and indoors imho - though are you looking for something with a more downturned toe maybe if on really steep stuff a lot?

A quicker on/off shoe I like a lot are the velcro Katanas also by La Sportiva. Would fit wider feet, more comfy out of the box than Miuras, but not as precise. Still, moderately stiff and a good compromise between edging and smearing ability.

I used to love the old 5-10 pinks and have extensively used the greens and the new pinks but, for me, neither of these cut the mustard against the Miuras. Leastways for precision - on my feet they feel very clumsy in comparison. I think the whites were supposed to be better (and v stiff) but seem to recall they are no longer being made. I do think the 5-10 set up works well on grit but, for less smearing work (e/g limestone and volcanics), I'd go for my Miuras any day.
Post edited at 12:21
 Fraser 28 May 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

Only one pair?! Yowsa, I think I have about 10 just now!

Miuras are my 'go-to' shoe, followed by Solutions or Scarpa Vapor Vs. It's all about the bass ... I mean the fit.
In reply to Skyfall:
> - though are you looking for something with a more downturned toe maybe if on really steep stuff a lot?

I have a trip to Kalymnos planned in Oct so something suitable for steep sport climbing would be good, though I don't forsee myself owning dozens of pairs of rock shoes. I guess I'm looking for something that will complement the Guides.
Post edited at 12:32
In reply to galpinos:
> Aren't the guides quite stiff? They're designed to have your toes flat, not bunched up so you might find they feel a bit clumpy?

Interesting - I certainly wouldn't describe them as stiff, though it's possible that mine are just well worn in having survived a fair amount of gritstone crack bashing.
Post edited at 12:32
In reply to Fraser:

> Miuras are my 'go-to' shoe, followed by Solutions or Scarpa Vapor Vs. It's all about the bass ... I mean the fit.

I see the miuras getting several recommendations, I'll add them to the list.

 Fraser 28 May 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

La Sportiva have made them for years, following the old addage: "if it ain't broke..." etc

I've had loads of pairs, they just seem to fit my feet perfectly.

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