In reply to Coel Hellier:
> Yeah, but the point is that the routes he is doing are hugely bold. Psychologically these are hugely "personal" ascents, as is clear if you read his blog. Given that, it is entirely understandable if he only feels inspired on first ascents, but not repeats, or if he only feels inspired in the home territory that he clearly loves. It is simply unreasonable to expect that level of performance across the board.
> Yes, the very, very best, people like McLeod and Birkett might be capable of that, but climbing hugely bold E8/9/10s is clearly a hugely personal activity.
> So maybe Franco is indeed only judging from his own routes and by extrapolating from easier routes elsewhere. That in itself doesn't mean they are wrong, and the evidence from Birkett (who had no issue with knocking 3 grades off Walk of Life) is that Franco's grading is fair. Further, I suspect that were these only ~ E6 or so, enough people would have repeated some of them and reported a downgrade, even if it is not a mainstream area.
The hardest route he has evidence for outside his own area is a well trodden grit E6. Extrapolating E10 is a bit of a jumps, 2 E8's in his own area notwithstanding. Franco won't be the last person to have his grades challenged by others. They may well be very hard and bold, but how would he know how hard they are on a nationally agreed scale without national experience?
> Yes of course we will only have real confirmation when more of them have had more ascents, but in the meantime Franco is doing his best to grade them as accurately and honestly as he can, which is all he can do. Yet you seem to be being mean to him just for the fun of it.
See my points previously. He can be honest, but accurate? He has no agreed yardstick. No point of agreed reference. It wouldn't matter who put the route up, but if someone is claiming the big numbers without the backing they need to be asked how they came up with the grade. They are after all national, not just N. Yorks grades.
Andy F