UKC

Hi all. Just wondered if anyone could think of a steep gully somewhere in the Peak that was mostly scrambling but had bits that might justify a rope? I'm trying to introduce my girlfriend to climbing, see? She's pottered around on boulders at the Roaches, but wants to do a proper climb with a harness! I want to bolster her enthusiasm, but I know that a gritstone moderate would make her quit now! Any ideas?

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

Not sure why you think some dank gully in the Peak would be less frightening than a Mod at Birchen. Are you a caver, or just frightened to let your girlfriend meet other climbing males?

Castleton may be your bag.

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

Don't risk some dank route in the Peak, head N or W to the Lakes or Snowdonia. Jakes Rake would be good fun.

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

There's some great low grade routes at the Roaches you could take her up which are ideal for novices and to be honest, if they put her off then maybe climbing's not for her

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

Trail magazine did a feature about this a while back.

But like others here im not convinced

I'd have thought snowdonia would be your best bet- something like bristley ridge would be good- there are a few passages where a less confident scrambler would feel the benefit of a rope, but its only grade 1. And it's a fantastic line.

And if she liked it then head down the hill to tryfan bach where there are lots of rock climbs at a friendly angle. Even the severes feel like vdiffs.

Jacks rake? Yes, only grade 1 , but there are some insecure steps crossing gullies with substantial exposure. If she's not happy with gritstone mods then she might find those a bit offputting

Cheers

Gregor

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:


Why do you think that? If she's happy doing easy bouldering, what makes you think that seconding an (easier) climb would freak her out? Is this something you've discussed with her?

For someone who's nervous but okay on boulders, I suspect an exposed scramble might be a lot more daunting than following a short easy climb.

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

Head over to Wales. Tryfan north ridge, and bristly ridge make a great day out with some rock climby bits

In reply to slab_happy:
Not necessarily. My other half finds bouldering scary and hard, but will happily stick her neck out on some quite exposed ground. It's not out of ignorance of the risks - she's cautious and has a lot of experience in the hills.

It's tricky in places like the Peak because with outcrops there's quite a clear divide between walking around the rocks and and climbing up/over them. I appreciate it's not quite what the OP is after, but my GF seems to appreciate the classic ridge walks in Lakes/Scotland where she can choose harder/easier lines, and after getting her eye in on that stuff is usually happy getting into grade 2 territory with a harness if the weather is OK. I normally buy the local scrambling guide for an area if we are taking a walking holiday, and if we get the chance it gives options.

To the OP: make sure your own rope skills are up to it. Apologies if this is completely obvious (for all I know you might be an Alpine veteran), but the skills needed to safely escort a less confident partner on exposed easy ground are very different from those needed in pitched climbing.

Mark

In reply to hamsforlegs:


I didn't mean to say that one is inherently scarier than the other -- in fact, that's sort of my point, that it depends very much on the individual.

For example, I'm fine with bouldering and climbing, but struggle with exposed scrambling and iffy descents, probably partly because I don't have that hillwalking background. And of course I know people who are the exact opposite.

So, it seems better for the OP to have a discussion with his girlfriend about what she feels okay with and what seems more nerve-wracking to her, rather than assuming that she'll go to pieces on a Mod and that scrambling is inherently less scary.

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

I've got various ideas of routes and locations but trying to keep my answer as true to what you have requested, I would suggest any number of descent routes that litter the popular Peak crags. Obviously make sure there's no other burger around who wants to use them for that purpose.

In reply to slab_happy:

Very sensible.

My other half is always terrified by the look/idea of scrambles right up until she's doing them, and then it's fine, so the discussion should be approached with care!
We've learned that as a 'team' we always benefit from the ancient climber's art of 'having a look'...

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

Go to the Lake District.

Jack's Rake on Pavey Ark is exactly what you describe

In reply to DoctorYoghourt:

I think a Gully might be worse. There can be a feeling of claustrophobia, that if you get stuck or scared you can't escape.

In reply to Trangia:

i dont agree- short passage of uninspiring clambering up a watercourse, then exposed walking, with an unpleasant very exposed crossing of a gully

yes the line is fantastic- but once your on it i dont think it lives up to the promise from afar...

cheers

gregor

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:
WHAT!!! - its bloody brilliant in any weather or condition - 400m of fun
https://www.facebook.com/NTLakescampsites/videos/vb.211202675568176/9253045...

In reply to John Kelly:

lol, brilliant video- reminds me of several great days in the lakes...

'its too wet for a climb- lets do a scramble instead'

2 hours later, nerves shredded from skittering about on exposed ledges with all the friction of buttered glass-

'didnt we say "never again!" the last time this happened? and the time before for that matter...?!'

cheers
gregor

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Agree with n_m_s_e.

Great video, though it doesn't show how bad the exposure can be if you are not that way inclined. I've done it about half a dozen times over the last 20 years and each time said never again as it gets slippier and more eroded.

Rather than the spectacular half way point with a huge amount of 'down' on the left I think it is the last section where you turn for the top that catches people out. Certainly the scene of recent deaths, though they have also unfortunately occurred lower down too.

To answer the OP, I can't help with Peak, but my go-to day out in your situation would be Cam Crag Ridge in Borrowdale. Listed as a Grade 2 scramble you can pitch it without getting in anyone's way and make it as easy or hard as you want.

Excellent route to decide if you are a dangler, scrambler or walker IMHO.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

We'll have to agree to disagree re Jack's Rake. I did it for the umpteenth time last week with a walking friend who is a bit nervous of exposure. Took a confidence rope with me, but in the event she was fine without it and really enjoyed it.

It has a the "feel" of a mountain route and the OP could rope his gf up it

It's a great winter route too when it's in condition, but not for a beginner!

In reply to Philip:


That'd be "Jack's Rake", Philip, not "Jake's". You touched a nerve with me there - one of my little pet hates. One of many! Good suggestion though.

In reply to Trangia:

I love Jack's Rake, but I can't help thinking that if you need to start someone off gently by roping them up a grade 1 scramble that energetic pensioners and small children are generally happy to do unroped then it's going to be a long uphill road to get them onto actual climbs!

OP: in the Peak, if you're worried about the "grittiness" of grit, have you considered Harborough? It's about the most approachable bit of rock I've ever climbed - fairly short, with massive jugs everywhere.

In reply to Ramblin dave:


I agree it's not difficult, but having said that it's had far too many fatalities on it, so needs treating with repect.

In reply to Martin Bennett:


Jack , Jake, they're just different spellings of the same original name. Chill out Marty.