UKC

Hi,

Any recommendations for routes and crags in Frankenjura.

Got my eye on fight gravity and magnet and Richard Wagner fels. Other than that there is just tons of climbing.

Recommendations 6a-8a would be good.

Sam

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

I enjoyed Freundschaftsweg at Napolean which is 7. Probably not worth going there specifically to climb it but it is close to Ober Gossweinstein, which has a few good harder climbs such as Sautanz (7b) and the villiage itself is nice.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Didn't get around a lot of places while I was there but I quite liked the crag Streitberger Schild with it's Wolfgang Gullich and Kurt Albert routes.

I was keen for this one...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=339743
...but it proved a bit too hard for me to do in the timescale, generally the grading seems very tough, this felt like 7b rather than the 7a I'd expected.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Hey Sam,
My favourite crag was probably Schlosszwergwand (I can't link to the logbook on this crappy computer), lots of routes there across the grades from 6a and into the f8's.
I really enjoyed flailing ineffectually at some of the harder stuff (stories of stiff grades are not exaggerrated) and Lisa found some great 6a-b routes so everyone was happy.
Rothelfels was pretty good too, the base of the crag is shaded by trees so good for a hot day (until you climb above the treeline...)

I have the ginormous 2 part guidebook if you want to borrow it?

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

If you look in my profile there are links to a few of my blog posts about the Frankenjura. Might have some useful stuff in it.

I thought fight gravity was really very polished.

Hitchhike the plane is very good and is a frankenjura 7c+ that's more accessible to people who aren't utter pocket mutants. Plenty of other good stuff round there too.

In reply to Dandan:
You suggestion sounds good Dan although all will go on the list.

Need some good places with stuff for me and stuff for Steph.

For guides I have the franken 1 and the franken 2 guide - are these what you have?

There is just so many crags and climb it's hard to work out what's good. Only have two weeks not long enough really haha.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

http://topoguide.de/topoguide-Magazin/Sektoren_und_Routen_Franken.pdf