UKC

Anyone got any beta on academic at avon gorge they would like to share. Seems like the kind of route where the right beta will make the moves much easier than the crazy stuff I was trying today.

Sam

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

My beta from 1 year ago. May not make sense I'm afraid:

"Finally did the crux sequence from the jug, well in overlapping halfs, just need better conditions! From jug at end of trav, left hand in big sidepull, right hand up to gaston with thumb wrapped. Big dropknee, left hand to crimp. Adjust body and sink, do a little headbutt and grab the top of the pinch (RH). Stay in the dropknee and pop to the flat sidepull (LH). Untwist (don't let the left foot come off), swap feet (quickly), high left toe, flag right leg behind then pop into a high gaston with right, then big incut sidepull with left. Perhaps swap feet instead of flagging to get to the juggy sidepull. Crux over!"

In reply to cha1n:

That way my beta for the top section, pretty much spot on. Left hand just, gaston right, drop knee, left to crimp, right to pinch etc etc. I was struggling with the traverse section, hands were obvious with the chalk but the feet! That was my main problem. Jug to the top was pretty good climbing and made that a few times, just couldn't get to the jug.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Ah right, I never really made a note of that bit as although it's a bit techy, it's only 7a climbing or something? I'll double check my logbook entry.

In reply to cha1n:

I must have just been being really stupid and missing the obvious moves. There were some tick marked feet last few moves of traverse seemed really hard.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:
"After crossing over at the start of the traverse I step left foot down onto a smear and put right foot straight up onto the slab and into the hold at the bottom of the roof, missing out the waist height pinch. Tris does a step through move where I match feet at the crux. Could be easier? Should try next time."

Nothing overly helpful I'm afraid. I assume you were doing a left side in drop knee to enter the traverse with the left hand crossing over the right? I'm quite tall and Tris is quite short and he had to use a pinch half way along the traverse. You just have to trust your feet and work out the body positions and you'll fly through it. I think the hold in the bottom of the roof was a gaston? I can't really remember that section very clearly. I know I was getting through it consistently and falling off near the end of the crux so it can't be that hard!

In reply to cha1n:

Think I need another day when its not sweltering hot.

If anyone or you cha1n has a video it would be amazing, will make beta explaining much easier. Always hard to understand when you don't have the route in front of you. Thanks for the help though.

In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Yeh, it's a very conditions dependent route. I wouldn't really bother trying it if it wasn't in the shade personally. It's a great route to save for the winter as it's quick drying and gets the sun.

If you can take a picture of the traverse I could be more specific. I don't think you'll find any videos though, don't think it gets done much (which is crazy as it's got really cool moves on it).

In reply to cha1n:

Which way do you traverse in? I've never seen a topo so was just following the staples. Never got to the peg but just thought it must have gone. I was traversing from the left looking at the drag starting up the corner filled with ivy.