UKC

Cramp in hands climbing

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 Cake 08 Jun 2015
The other night I was at Cratcliffe. We did Suicide Wall and I belayed in the Bower, but I didn't get cold as it was a warm evening. I followed the second pitch and got a bit pumped, but put it down to having been at the belay for quite a while and thought it was a bit of a flash pump, but fine as it would warm me up for the next route...

I then went to lead Fern Hill E2 5c and was dismayed to find that after I had done the initial pumpy crux with no feet I had cramp in both hands and couldn't get rid of it as there is no true rest for a few metres. I could place gear, but no more and fell, needless to say, very pi55ed off.

This has never happened before and I would love it if it never happens again (particularly on a big classic that I really, really want to on-sight). Does it happen to other people quite often, and what precautionary measures do you take?

I googled it and the first few hits seemed a load of twaddle and conjecture. Obviously, UKC forums are always reliable
OP Cake 08 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:

Bump
 Alun 08 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:

I get cramp in my hands/fingers when I am very tired. I remember somewhere high on Fiesta de los Biceps, in Riglos, seeing the middle finger of my right hand literally curl in on itself, completely against my will, as the forearm muscle cramped. I spent the rest of the pitch (and route) trying to climb one-handed, and in considerable pain.

I have had it come and go over the years - it usually occurs when I have been climbing down the wall a lot (i.e. short bursts, 2/3 hours max) and then go for a day's cragging (i.e. effort spread over 8ish hours), so I get tired and cramp.

Unfortunately, I have no specific advice to help get rid of it, beyond "climb outside more", which is probably the best advice 99% of the time anyway! I hope you manage to find a way around it.
 veteye 08 Jun 2015
In reply to Alun:

I would agree that cramp often occurs when I am very tired.What I must point out is that I mean that I am tired before I get to the crag,whereas Alun,you may be meaning that you are tired just with climbing.
I generally don't get enough sleep and work too much,so go climbing when I can and realise that I am handicapped with my work.
In my case my middle finger tends to stick out at right angles.I can sometimes get round it if I am on an easy enough route by using the opposite limb more.
 mary 08 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:

There was a post a few days ago on cramp:-

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=617147

M
OP Cake 09 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:

Cheers for your offerings. One odd thing is that I had literally only climbed 25 metres beforehand, so fatigue could not be the main factor. Perhaps the fact I was attempting a lead at my limit after two weeks of no climbing was a factor.
 johncook 09 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:
I usually find that I get cramps if my electrolyte levels are out. On 'sweaty' days a bag of crisps or other salty snacks before a route prevents this. (I have a kidney problem which makes my electrolyte levels difficult to maintain.) Good luck and you can try it for the price of a bag of crisps, if it works great, if not no great loss.
I was told that drinking too much water (especially cheaper bottled water, little mineral content.) could make matters worse. There is a page re colour of urine which will give a clue to your problem. I will try to find it and post it here, but basically it says if your urine is clear and colourless you may be drinking too much. It should be clear and pale/lemon yellow. I am not a doctor, but my urologist liked/agreed with the site.
Post edited at 10:12
 LeeWood 09 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:

You've just reminded me of the most notorious instance of cramp - on Kestrel Cracks at Tremadog, 1987 approx. I'd just got established above the lip of the overhang when the cramps set in as I desperately tried to fiddle some gear into place; it was early days and I remember wishing for a friend to fit the parallel crack. Anyway, after some faffing I fell off, (leaving feet well placed!) head first & might well have struck the rocky grrove were it not for my mate's presence of mind to leap down the bank and thus shorten the slack rope.

I used to suffer with such cramps frequently (when tired) when I was younger. I think any electrolyte imbalance can do it, and for me that would more often be a lack of water. Once you get deep fatigue ie. relating to current fitness and the demands placed, then it can occur. Could also be low blood sugar, or more simply 'the body's lack of ability to sustain the demands imposed upon it' at metabolic level.
 BarrySW19 09 Jun 2015
In reply to Cake:

I always find cold is the main factor in my getting cramps. Maybe make sure you're wearing long sleeves to help maintain blood flow to the arms and consider wearing (fingerless/belay) gloves when not climbing.

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