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Over the last few years many non-south-facing crags in Northumberland have received a good scrub. This thread is an attempt at following on from last year’s thread (http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=552699&v=1#x7386661) summarizing what has been done and when, so as to encourage traffic. The dates in brackets are the last known clean.
Ravensheugh
Little Idi Area: Always clean
Pendulum *** (VS 4c) Pendulum direct (HVS 5a) – Both spotless (2013)
Baluster Crack ** (Northumbrian HVS 5a & 5b) - Both finishes (2013)
Trouser Legs *** (Northumbrian E1 5b ha ha) (2013)
Easter Grooves (E2) - (light scrub in 2013, but could do with some more brushing).
Easter Crack (VD) - (2013)
Sunny Sunday (E2 5c) - (2013)
Hot Bricks (E1 5c) - (2013)
What is the Victory (E2 5c) / Direct Start (6a) - The arête between Hot Bricks and Cat’s Whiskers - (2015)
Cat's Whiskers * (E1 5b) - (2014)
Scoop Crack (HS 4b) - (2015)
The Squealer (E? ??) Excellent route, but I found this by no means an easy approach to the arête - (2015)
Smarty Pants ** (E2 5c) - (2013 & 2015)
Half Minute Crack (VS?) - (Climbed 2015)
Crescent Wall Climbs - (Always clean and see regular ascents)
Candle in the Wind / Gates of Eden *** - Two of the best around, regularly climbed - (2015).
First Among Equals *** (E6 6b) - (spruced up in 2013).
Ravensheugh Crack *** (HVS 5a) – (Regularly climbed)
Childshood’s End (E4) – (light clean 2015)
Wild West Show ** (HVS 5a) – (Regularly Climbed)
Redskin * (E3 5b) –NMC topo is misleading and depicts Hang em' High, Redskin goes further right before traversing left again - (2014).
Lee Van Cleef *(E4 5c) – New route between Redskin and Sitting Bull - (2013)
Sitting Bull (E3 5b) – (2013)
Moccasin Slab * (HVS 5a) and Buckskin ** (VS) – (Regularly climbed).
Pink Lane ** (E1 5b) – (2013).
St. Cuthbert's Crack * (VS 5a) - Takes some drainage so will always get a bit of dirt, however, its free of soil / plants and the jams / gear are solid (2013).
The Convict (E2 5b) – Has seen a number of ascents, The topo in the NMC guide is misleading and should traverse right. (2013-2015).
High Plains Drifter (E5 6a), Ben’s Wall (E4 5c) – New routes added between Funeral for a Friend and The Convict – bold and hard - (2013).
Great Wanney
Great Wall Direct Finish * (E5) - (2013)
Spare Rib (E4) Excellent highball, worth a star, possibly harder than 6a - (2013)
Osiris (E3) – (2013/4)
Pharaoh’s Face (E3) - (2013)
The Last Retreat * (E4) - (2013)
Nosey Parker * (E5) - (2013)
The First Gone * (E5) A direct finish to The Last Retreat has been climbed at E5 6a, up the wall above the midway ledge, finishing just right of Nosey Parker - (2013)
Nemes (HVS – E2) a new line between Pharaoh’s Face and Main wall - (2013).
E2s on the flanks (possibly Aces High and Pitfall) were cleaned on lead by one party - (2013).
Many of the easier routes and the following were also clean enough to be climbed: Main Wall *** (HVS), Rakes Crack ** (E1), Enery’s Ammer * (E2), Northumberland Wall *** (E2), Broken Wing and Thin Ice *** (E3…), Endless Flight *** (E5), Crisis Zone (E7)***.
Shaftoe
Café Noir (E2-4, 5c)*** – Spotlessly clean, better cam protection than expected - (2015)
Queens Crag
Security Risk (HVS 5c) – The finger slots cleaned - (2013).
Marie Celeste *** (HVS 5b) - (2013).
Jazz * (VS 5a) – (2013)
Gloriana *** (probably more like E4 5c) - (2013).
Bicycle Race (VS 5a) - (2013)
Cleopatra (HVS: hard English 6a) –excellent highball - (2013).
Crag Lough has had a number of concerted clean ups in 2013/14. Many low to mid-grade route are now spotlessly clean. Some are listed here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=557861
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=596870
Others (e.g. Spot the Dog and Wooden Tops) have been cleaned by independent parties.
Fox Holes Crag
A bouldering venue near Wolf Crag was cleaned and documented in 2014. Guide here: http://geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Foxholes%20Miniguide.pdf
Lower Tosson
Has had various developments over the last year or two (notably easier bouldering), and a team has also been in the perma-dry cave. An updated guide is available here: http://geoquest-verlag.de/?q=en/node/218
NMC Miniguides
The NMC are in the process of producing mini-guides for newly developed areas. Blakey’s Block and The Stell can be found here: http://northumberlandclimbing.co.uk/
Traffic is really needed to keep these routes in good condition as the combination of warm winters and drainage can result in them quickly getting dirty again.
Ravensheugh
Little Idi Area: Always clean
Pendulum *** (VS 4c) Pendulum direct (HVS 5a) – Both spotless (2013)
Baluster Crack ** (Northumbrian HVS 5a & 5b) - Both finishes (2013)
Trouser Legs *** (Northumbrian E1 5b ha ha) (2013)
Easter Grooves (E2) - (light scrub in 2013, but could do with some more brushing).
Easter Crack (VD) - (2013)
Sunny Sunday (E2 5c) - (2013)
Hot Bricks (E1 5c) - (2013)
What is the Victory (E2 5c) / Direct Start (6a) - The arête between Hot Bricks and Cat’s Whiskers - (2015)
Cat's Whiskers * (E1 5b) - (2014)
Scoop Crack (HS 4b) - (2015)
The Squealer (E? ??) Excellent route, but I found this by no means an easy approach to the arête - (2015)
Smarty Pants ** (E2 5c) - (2013 & 2015)
Half Minute Crack (VS?) - (Climbed 2015)
Crescent Wall Climbs - (Always clean and see regular ascents)
Candle in the Wind / Gates of Eden *** - Two of the best around, regularly climbed - (2015).
First Among Equals *** (E6 6b) - (spruced up in 2013).
Ravensheugh Crack *** (HVS 5a) – (Regularly climbed)
Childshood’s End (E4) – (light clean 2015)
Wild West Show ** (HVS 5a) – (Regularly Climbed)
Redskin * (E3 5b) –NMC topo is misleading and depicts Hang em' High, Redskin goes further right before traversing left again - (2014).
Lee Van Cleef *(E4 5c) – New route between Redskin and Sitting Bull - (2013)
Sitting Bull (E3 5b) – (2013)
Moccasin Slab * (HVS 5a) and Buckskin ** (VS) – (Regularly climbed).
Pink Lane ** (E1 5b) – (2013).
St. Cuthbert's Crack * (VS 5a) - Takes some drainage so will always get a bit of dirt, however, its free of soil / plants and the jams / gear are solid (2013).
The Convict (E2 5b) – Has seen a number of ascents, The topo in the NMC guide is misleading and should traverse right. (2013-2015).
High Plains Drifter (E5 6a), Ben’s Wall (E4 5c) – New routes added between Funeral for a Friend and The Convict – bold and hard - (2013).
Great Wanney
Great Wall Direct Finish * (E5) - (2013)
Spare Rib (E4) Excellent highball, worth a star, possibly harder than 6a - (2013)
Osiris (E3) – (2013/4)
Pharaoh’s Face (E3) - (2013)
The Last Retreat * (E4) - (2013)
Nosey Parker * (E5) - (2013)
The First Gone * (E5) A direct finish to The Last Retreat has been climbed at E5 6a, up the wall above the midway ledge, finishing just right of Nosey Parker - (2013)
Nemes (HVS – E2) a new line between Pharaoh’s Face and Main wall - (2013).
E2s on the flanks (possibly Aces High and Pitfall) were cleaned on lead by one party - (2013).
Many of the easier routes and the following were also clean enough to be climbed: Main Wall *** (HVS), Rakes Crack ** (E1), Enery’s Ammer * (E2), Northumberland Wall *** (E2), Broken Wing and Thin Ice *** (E3…), Endless Flight *** (E5), Crisis Zone (E7)***.
Shaftoe
Café Noir (E2-4, 5c)*** – Spotlessly clean, better cam protection than expected - (2015)
Queens Crag
Security Risk (HVS 5c) – The finger slots cleaned - (2013).
Marie Celeste *** (HVS 5b) - (2013).
Jazz * (VS 5a) – (2013)
Gloriana *** (probably more like E4 5c) - (2013).
Bicycle Race (VS 5a) - (2013)
Cleopatra (HVS: hard English 6a) –excellent highball - (2013).
Crag Lough has had a number of concerted clean ups in 2013/14. Many low to mid-grade route are now spotlessly clean. Some are listed here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=557861
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=596870
Others (e.g. Spot the Dog and Wooden Tops) have been cleaned by independent parties.
Fox Holes Crag
A bouldering venue near Wolf Crag was cleaned and documented in 2014. Guide here: http://geoquest-verlag.de/sites/default/files/Foxholes%20Miniguide.pdf
Lower Tosson
Has had various developments over the last year or two (notably easier bouldering), and a team has also been in the perma-dry cave. An updated guide is available here: http://geoquest-verlag.de/?q=en/node/218
NMC Miniguides
The NMC are in the process of producing mini-guides for newly developed areas. Blakey’s Block and The Stell can be found here: http://northumberlandclimbing.co.uk/
Traffic is really needed to keep these routes in good condition as the combination of warm winters and drainage can result in them quickly getting dirty again.
6
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Good stuff Si.
At the NMC meet at Gt Wanney a couple of weeks ago they thought some routes were a bit scruffy, all in the Diff-E1 range I think. Always worth having a bristle brush on these N facing crags.
A crowd were at Jack Rock last Saturday, maybe someone will come along on this thread and say what's clean there.
Good stuff Si.
At the NMC meet at Gt Wanney a couple of weeks ago they thought some routes were a bit scruffy, all in the Diff-E1 range I think. Always worth having a bristle brush on these N facing crags.
A crowd were at Jack Rock last Saturday, maybe someone will come along on this thread and say what's clean there.
In reply to JDal:
hang on, I have been climbing Diff - E1 for 10 years and never felt the need to carry a brush.
I would suggest that it's a very bad idea to"always have a bristle brush on north facing crags" especially if it is soft Northumberland sandstone, such as Ravensheugh or Great Wanney.
What is the BMC's view on brushing sandstone? I would suggest it is probably strongly discouraged as it causes more erosion.
I accept that on E5's and the like that that small hold may need that bit of lichen brushed off it to make it climbable, but I have never found that to be the case on a climb up to E1.
hang on, I have been climbing Diff - E1 for 10 years and never felt the need to carry a brush.
I would suggest that it's a very bad idea to"always have a bristle brush on north facing crags" especially if it is soft Northumberland sandstone, such as Ravensheugh or Great Wanney.
What is the BMC's view on brushing sandstone? I would suggest it is probably strongly discouraged as it causes more erosion.
I accept that on E5's and the like that that small hold may need that bit of lichen brushed off it to make it climbable, but I have never found that to be the case on a climb up to E1.
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Good thread.
as an update:
The Last Retreat * (E4)
-This was pretty dirty when I tried it the other day (may 2015). Head wall in particular had fine dusty lichen making holds rather uninspiring. If I go back this year it will be with a brush!
Good thread.
as an update:
The Last Retreat * (E4)
-This was pretty dirty when I tried it the other day (may 2015). Head wall in particular had fine dusty lichen making holds rather uninspiring. If I go back this year it will be with a brush!
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Nice work. Went for a walk over Simonside and beyond yesterday. We were aiming for Tosson Hill, but we didn't quite get there. What a fantastic area though - haven't been up there for years, but some of the routes look fab (some noticeable gaps too). Command Performance (E4 6b) and A.K.A Mr. Vegas. (E7 6c) looked particularly cool - they look like they need a good clean though.
Does stuff tend to stay cleanish year-on-year? It looked like a fairly active area for greenness..
Tosson looks class - Good work on that! - can't wait to move up in July.
Nice work. Went for a walk over Simonside and beyond yesterday. We were aiming for Tosson Hill, but we didn't quite get there. What a fantastic area though - haven't been up there for years, but some of the routes look fab (some noticeable gaps too). Command Performance (E4 6b) and A.K.A Mr. Vegas. (E7 6c) looked particularly cool - they look like they need a good clean though.
Does stuff tend to stay cleanish year-on-year? It looked like a fairly active area for greenness..
Tosson looks class - Good work on that! - can't wait to move up in July.
Post edited at 18:27
In reply to ablackett:
Both JDal and I regularly attend BMC North East meetings. The state of crags is regularly discussed at these meetings along with the need for many of the North facing crags to be cleaned. Indeed the Ravensheugh clean-up, organised by the NMC in 2013, and the Crag Lough clean-ups (2013/14) were discussed and supported. I, therefore, do not believe that there is a BMC moratorium against cleaning routes with brushes.
Wire brushing is not permitted on sandstone crags. However, as p.10 of the NMC guide to Northumberland show, soft brushes are permitted to clean lichen. Therefore anyone reading this forum is requested to brush responsibly and consult the relevant literature.
North facing Northumberland crags for a number of years have had a reputation for being dirty and a vicious circle arose: as the crags were dirty, people didn’t climb on them. As people didn’t climb on them the routes got dirtier. Starred routes were neglected, as logbook comments describe:
Ravensheugh: Pendulum / direct: ‘Found this a massive struggle due to having to clean the rock as I went’ (2011), ‘Lichen snow storm!’; Easter Grooves: ‘dirty’ (2009); and routes like Half Minute Crack or Smarty Pants saw barely any ascents. The list is not confined to Ravensheugh. Cleopatra at Queens had bushes in it, Café Noir at Shaftoe had a small garden on top, and Osiris at Great Wanney was unclimbable until the heather was removed from the crux hold.
Through the hard work of activists (be it though organised events via the NMC / BMC or alone) many routes have been brought back into a climbable state. This can have a positive impact on route/crag conservation by: encouraging climbers away from the south facing crags that are being eroded by overuse; and spreading the load so that it is not just a narrow number of 3 star routes at a crag that are climbed. Again this is borne out by the logbooks: Ravensheugh: Half Minute Crack, Pink Lane, Futility all have stars and only two ascents logged each, compared to Pendulum (73), and Crescent Wall (38).
Pretty much every established route that we climb on has been cleaned at some point, and we all have probably benefitted from someone else’s cleaning at some point. Carrying a brush a soft brush to clean a neglected line and give back to the climbing community is something that users can do, but do not have to do.
My intention for this thread was to promote traffic to these routes, to keep them clean and to provide a forum so that others share knowledge of other routes that have been cleaned. I am not asking for clean routes to be re-cleaned unnecessarily. Further, I would ask that this doesn’t turn into an ethics debate and am not looking for credit for cleaning… I am sure that the former can be had elsewhere on these forums and as for the latter I am sure my MBE for cleaning services was just lost in the post this year.
Both JDal and I regularly attend BMC North East meetings. The state of crags is regularly discussed at these meetings along with the need for many of the North facing crags to be cleaned. Indeed the Ravensheugh clean-up, organised by the NMC in 2013, and the Crag Lough clean-ups (2013/14) were discussed and supported. I, therefore, do not believe that there is a BMC moratorium against cleaning routes with brushes.
Wire brushing is not permitted on sandstone crags. However, as p.10 of the NMC guide to Northumberland show, soft brushes are permitted to clean lichen. Therefore anyone reading this forum is requested to brush responsibly and consult the relevant literature.
North facing Northumberland crags for a number of years have had a reputation for being dirty and a vicious circle arose: as the crags were dirty, people didn’t climb on them. As people didn’t climb on them the routes got dirtier. Starred routes were neglected, as logbook comments describe:
Ravensheugh: Pendulum / direct: ‘Found this a massive struggle due to having to clean the rock as I went’ (2011), ‘Lichen snow storm!’; Easter Grooves: ‘dirty’ (2009); and routes like Half Minute Crack or Smarty Pants saw barely any ascents. The list is not confined to Ravensheugh. Cleopatra at Queens had bushes in it, Café Noir at Shaftoe had a small garden on top, and Osiris at Great Wanney was unclimbable until the heather was removed from the crux hold.
Through the hard work of activists (be it though organised events via the NMC / BMC or alone) many routes have been brought back into a climbable state. This can have a positive impact on route/crag conservation by: encouraging climbers away from the south facing crags that are being eroded by overuse; and spreading the load so that it is not just a narrow number of 3 star routes at a crag that are climbed. Again this is borne out by the logbooks: Ravensheugh: Half Minute Crack, Pink Lane, Futility all have stars and only two ascents logged each, compared to Pendulum (73), and Crescent Wall (38).
Pretty much every established route that we climb on has been cleaned at some point, and we all have probably benefitted from someone else’s cleaning at some point. Carrying a brush a soft brush to clean a neglected line and give back to the climbing community is something that users can do, but do not have to do.
My intention for this thread was to promote traffic to these routes, to keep them clean and to provide a forum so that others share knowledge of other routes that have been cleaned. I am not asking for clean routes to be re-cleaned unnecessarily. Further, I would ask that this doesn’t turn into an ethics debate and am not looking for credit for cleaning… I am sure that the former can be had elsewhere on these forums and as for the latter I am sure my MBE for cleaning services was just lost in the post this year.
6
In reply to ablackett:
I don't know if Si Litchfield knows it, but he's quoting from my logbook comment from when you and I climbed Pendulum Direct. Do you remember the black powder lichen on several of the climbs that day? I don't know what the best thing to do about it is, but it can be hard work climbing them as-is.
I don't know if Si Litchfield knows it, but he's quoting from my logbook comment from when you and I climbed Pendulum Direct. Do you remember the black powder lichen on several of the climbs that day? I don't know what the best thing to do about it is, but it can be hard work climbing them as-is.
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Visited Ravensheugh about 2 weeks ago and yes, some of the stuff could do with a good brush. Even Baluster Crack had bits of dirt coming off it, and Pendulum Direct didn't look quite as good as the normal route (which is fine, as is Ravensheugh Crack and The Crescent).
Half Minute Crack is OK at the moment but god this has got to be the most undergraded route I've come across in a long time! Personally I'd say E2 5c but even allowing for the harsh grades at this crag it would surely be E1 5b minimum (at least a grade harder than Ravensheugh crack). This may account for lack of ascents!
Smarty Pants is really very dirty at the moment and could really do with a clean as it looks to be a great line other than that. Would probably have considered it myself if we'd had a brush with us. The heathery top outs to this and Half Minute Crack aren't too inspiring either unfortunately.
Little Leaner / Bede Crack are nice and clean; St Cuthbert's could do with a quick brush again.
Visited Ravensheugh about 2 weeks ago and yes, some of the stuff could do with a good brush. Even Baluster Crack had bits of dirt coming off it, and Pendulum Direct didn't look quite as good as the normal route (which is fine, as is Ravensheugh Crack and The Crescent).
Half Minute Crack is OK at the moment but god this has got to be the most undergraded route I've come across in a long time! Personally I'd say E2 5c but even allowing for the harsh grades at this crag it would surely be E1 5b minimum (at least a grade harder than Ravensheugh crack). This may account for lack of ascents!
Smarty Pants is really very dirty at the moment and could really do with a clean as it looks to be a great line other than that. Would probably have considered it myself if we'd had a brush with us. The heathery top outs to this and Half Minute Crack aren't too inspiring either unfortunately.
Little Leaner / Bede Crack are nice and clean; St Cuthbert's could do with a quick brush again.
In reply to ablackett:
The Ravensheugh area isn't soft sandstone like you get at the likes of Bowden. Seemed exactly like gritstone to me (in fact I'd say it is grit).
The Ravensheugh area isn't soft sandstone like you get at the likes of Bowden. Seemed exactly like gritstone to me (in fact I'd say it is grit).
1
In reply to mike barnard:
Smarty Pants was well cleaned (with a brush) by a team yesterday! Half Minute Crack wasn't cleaned on an ab rope but was climbed yesterday so the holds were cleaned by hand / traffic. Agreed about the grade being hard!
Pendulum Direct is still clean enough to climb. One or two parties and it will be like the original again.
Smarty Pants was well cleaned (with a brush) by a team yesterday! Half Minute Crack wasn't cleaned on an ab rope but was climbed yesterday so the holds were cleaned by hand / traffic. Agreed about the grade being hard!
Pendulum Direct is still clean enough to climb. One or two parties and it will be like the original again.
Post edited at 19:56
In reply to mike barnard:
Re rock hardness, Ravensheugh is universally solid, and as you say more like grit. Simonside is more variable, but where it's good it's the same as Ravensheugh. These two are fell sandstones. Gt Wanney is also universally hard and gritstone-like, and is not Fell Sandstone.
Re rock hardness, Ravensheugh is universally solid, and as you say more like grit. Simonside is more variable, but where it's good it's the same as Ravensheugh. These two are fell sandstones. Gt Wanney is also universally hard and gritstone-like, and is not Fell Sandstone.
In reply to ablackett:
Come and try out Pendulum direct, one of the cleaner lines at Ravensheugh. I will happily hold your rope while you admire the cleanliness of the rock.
>What is the BMC's view on brushing sandstone? I would suggest it is probably strongly discouraged as it causes more erosion.
I would suggest top roping on northern standstone should be far more discouraged as it causes more erosion than a soft brush ever would.
Thanks for all the cleaning Si.
> I accept that on E5's and the like that that small hold may need that bit of lichen brushed off it to make it climbable, but I have never found that to be the case on a climb up to E1.
Come and try out Pendulum direct, one of the cleaner lines at Ravensheugh. I will happily hold your rope while you admire the cleanliness of the rock.
>What is the BMC's view on brushing sandstone? I would suggest it is probably strongly discouraged as it causes more erosion.
I would suggest top roping on northern standstone should be far more discouraged as it causes more erosion than a soft brush ever would.
Thanks for all the cleaning Si.
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Climbed Osiris at Great Wanney a couple of weeks ago, it could do with another clean (green at the start, scrittley/licheny at the top), but it is still climbable.
Thin Ice and Northumberland Wall saw at least 3 ascents each too, they're totally clean.
Climbed Osiris at Great Wanney a couple of weeks ago, it could do with another clean (green at the start, scrittley/licheny at the top), but it is still climbable.
Thin Ice and Northumberland Wall saw at least 3 ascents each too, they're totally clean.
1
More cleaned up:
Ravensheugh
The Nark (MVS, 4c) – Dug out cracks, plants removed and saw three ascents last night. Much better than its lack of stars suggests. Needs further ascents.
Dawes’ Route, Reiver, Crocodile Arete – all clean(ed) and awaiting those with talent.
Apparently on Simonside some harder routes (e.g. Command Performance?) have been cleaned off, as has the Jubilee Traverse at Shaftoe.
Ravensheugh
The Nark (MVS, 4c) – Dug out cracks, plants removed and saw three ascents last night. Much better than its lack of stars suggests. Needs further ascents.
Dawes’ Route, Reiver, Crocodile Arete – all clean(ed) and awaiting those with talent.
Apparently on Simonside some harder routes (e.g. Command Performance?) have been cleaned off, as has the Jubilee Traverse at Shaftoe.
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Have made the long walk up to Ravenshugh a few times with my camara with the hope of shotting someone on some of the harder or classic climbs up there. On every occasion the place has been deserted, so if anyone is heading up there any weekend in the next few months and dont mind me taking a few shots if they could give me a email through ukc i would,nt mind metting you up there for some shots. I have a good camara and lenses so hoping to get good shot. Take a look at my gallery on ukc for examples.
Have made the long walk up to Ravenshugh a few times with my camara with the hope of shotting someone on some of the harder or classic climbs up there. On every occasion the place has been deserted, so if anyone is heading up there any weekend in the next few months and dont mind me taking a few shots if they could give me a email through ukc i would,nt mind metting you up there for some shots. I have a good camara and lenses so hoping to get good shot. Take a look at my gallery on ukc for examples.
Post edited at 19:34
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Great stuff, credit to all those involved. Will report back if I get on any of these. I did solo the easy first part of Cafe Noir earlier on (when it was still dirty) and there is gear everywhere, so probably is a lower grade.
Great stuff, credit to all those involved. Will report back if I get on any of these. I did solo the easy first part of Cafe Noir earlier on (when it was still dirty) and there is gear everywhere, so probably is a lower grade.
1
In reply to Si Litchfield:
I have to say, Ravensheugh looked fantastic last Wednesday. The cracks at the RH end are cleaner than they were in the 60's. A great effort.
I have to say, Ravensheugh looked fantastic last Wednesday. The cracks at the RH end are cleaner than they were in the 60's. A great effort.
1
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Spent the day at Queen's Crag yesterday and cleaned some things such that they could be climbed, some of the harder stuff also appeared clean. I only had a Lapis brush with me so didn't feel especially keen for cleaning large areas!
Worldline 7b - Looked clean, didn't try it though
Prow one 5 - Bottom section clean
Steve's Layback 5+ - Cleaned some of the lower footholds and the holds used to top out.
Prow Two LH 4 - Top section is clean, lower section needs some serious brushing.
Prow Two 5 - Gave the top arete a bit of a brush but this still needs a bit of TLC.
Steve's mantel 4 - Clean
Queen Kong 8a - Looked clean, again didn't try it.
The Sting 5 - Cleaned the top part but the bottom section is still very dirty.
Cinderella 7b - Bottom section clean but a little sandy, top section looked clean.
Left hand Leap 6c - Clean, climbed left hand crack which uses some holds in common with this.
Victory arete 6b+ - Pretty clean, lower footholds may want a brush. Top section seemed clean.
Grooved arete 5+ - Cleaned enough that it was climbable.
Ace of Spades 6a - Cleaned most of this. Top out still has a lot of lichen on but it doesn't seem to affect it too much.
Short Wall 4 - Clean
Short arete 5+ - Clean
Anything on the crag itself which I have not mentioned here is likely not in a climbable state at present. I didn't climb on the rabbit stone or the main boulder so don't know what the state of those problems is.
Depending on what happens next week I may head over to Jesmond Dene and give the boulder problems there a clean next week if they need doing, what kind of brush would be best to use for this?
Spent the day at Queen's Crag yesterday and cleaned some things such that they could be climbed, some of the harder stuff also appeared clean. I only had a Lapis brush with me so didn't feel especially keen for cleaning large areas!
Worldline 7b - Looked clean, didn't try it though
Prow one 5 - Bottom section clean
Steve's Layback 5+ - Cleaned some of the lower footholds and the holds used to top out.
Prow Two LH 4 - Top section is clean, lower section needs some serious brushing.
Prow Two 5 - Gave the top arete a bit of a brush but this still needs a bit of TLC.
Steve's mantel 4 - Clean
Queen Kong 8a - Looked clean, again didn't try it.
The Sting 5 - Cleaned the top part but the bottom section is still very dirty.
Cinderella 7b - Bottom section clean but a little sandy, top section looked clean.
Left hand Leap 6c - Clean, climbed left hand crack which uses some holds in common with this.
Victory arete 6b+ - Pretty clean, lower footholds may want a brush. Top section seemed clean.
Grooved arete 5+ - Cleaned enough that it was climbable.
Ace of Spades 6a - Cleaned most of this. Top out still has a lot of lichen on but it doesn't seem to affect it too much.
Short Wall 4 - Clean
Short arete 5+ - Clean
Anything on the crag itself which I have not mentioned here is likely not in a climbable state at present. I didn't climb on the rabbit stone or the main boulder so don't know what the state of those problems is.
Depending on what happens next week I may head over to Jesmond Dene and give the boulder problems there a clean next week if they need doing, what kind of brush would be best to use for this?
In reply to spenser:
Get a washing up brush and a toothbrush. Quite a few of the problems were clean as of a couple of months ago. It could do with someone abing down and pulling all the brambles out though - in the quarry. There are a few unclimbed boulder problems that look pretty good.
Get a washing up brush and a toothbrush. Quite a few of the problems were clean as of a couple of months ago. It could do with someone abing down and pulling all the brambles out though - in the quarry. There are a few unclimbed boulder problems that look pretty good.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Cheers Franco, if it's unclimbed it's probably too hard for me! I've not been there since september when a few of the problems were in need of a brushing.
Cheers Franco, if it's unclimbed it's probably too hard for me! I've not been there since september when a few of the problems were in need of a brushing.
In reply to spenser:
Yeh, the stuff near the mill is all rancid. The quarry could do with a brush (I only managed to brush some of the holds by hand-over-handing up the brambles...) . The first wall you reach is in top knick. Quite a nice little venue - some of the stuff in the quarry was decent.
Yeh, the stuff near the mill is all rancid. The quarry could do with a brush (I only managed to brush some of the holds by hand-over-handing up the brambles...) . The first wall you reach is in top knick. Quite a nice little venue - some of the stuff in the quarry was decent.
In reply to Si Litchfield:
Anyone planing on being up there Saturday or Sunday afternoon. Im still looking for teams to get some photos of. Dont fancy the walk up on the off chance that someone will be there so if your going up and dont mind me turning up with my camara let me know. I would be only to happy to let you have copies of any good images i get.
Anyone planing on being up there Saturday or Sunday afternoon. Im still looking for teams to get some photos of. Dont fancy the walk up on the off chance that someone will be there so if your going up and dont mind me turning up with my camara let me know. I would be only to happy to let you have copies of any good images i get.
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