UKC

Has anybody who's done the Kuffner any beta on whether my trusty 35m beal is sufficient for it? If we are moving together the whole way I wouldn't expect any issues unless we have to ab the Point Androsace (sic) (or whatever it's called). Sound about right?

In reply to glaramara:

It'll be fine. What's this about 'abbing point Androsace'? You'd only have to abseil if you went over it, but you climb around it on the left.

In reply to jon:

Think it mentions it in the Moran book in certain circumstances, but short rope only is good news.

In reply to glaramara:

I always take a 50m rope on the Kuffner. 35m would be ok if your very confident on the terrain and conditions are good.....

In reply to Jon Bracey:

I shall bear that in mind, cheers Jon. won't be going if conditions are iffy but we shall see, can't be worse than last year.

In reply to glaramara:
Did it last year in June with a 40m rope. Was fine. Moved together except for going around androsace and didn't abseil.
A longer rope(s) would be useful for escaping early before the summit.

Careful getting to the bivouac hut in the afternoons

In reply to jon:

Yes, except the Torino is supposed to be closed all summer...which I guess means either a busy bivvy hut, or the place will be deserted.

A longer rope would leave options for doing pitches on the way up (the horizontal snow/cornice traverse is quite long), and might help getting down if you come back to the Midi. 35m is pretty limited for pitching or abseiling.

In reply to graham F:


Well yes, that rather spoils things doesn't it? The Cham guides do the Kuffner the same way but go from the Cosmiques rather than the Torino, which makes it a bit longer...

In reply to graham F:

Or you could camp overnight slightly illegally which is what I intend to do. On reflection the longer rope might give me options if we retreat down the ridge to the Col de tacul rather than the lower traverse which is a bit of a death trap really. Can't remember if the Moran book says there's stanchions but anything is better than playing serac roulette IMHO. Thanks for advice.

BTW, pushing my luck here but if the Kuffner is too dry is the Arete de Diable still a good option in dry condition? We're going slightly late season for my liking (end of July), but alas one of my climbing partners has a life and can't just go whenever, like me....