UKC

Stiff edging shoe?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Juicymite86 11 Jun 2015
Ey up, had my first two pairs of shoes second hand ish and looking at a proper investment in a good pair, found my style of climbing suits a stiffer sole good for edging but the choices are endless it seems, im toying with the idea of la sportiva katana or 5 10 anasazi pink...and others i should be looking into? Im leading to 6b+ at the moment
 galpinos 11 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

Pink's aren't that stiff, not like the whites, and soften reasonably quickly. Most Scarpa shoes always feel pretty stiff to me, the Instinct VS seem like clogs.
OP Juicymite86 12 Jun 2015
In reply to galpinos:

Been looking at the scarpa vapour v...not sure about the velcro though, any good?
 galpinos 12 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

Not used them but the general opinion is positive, good around shoe. For your level, they'd be ideal if they fit!
 CurlyStevo 12 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:
You can climb most F6b+ in very loose shoes with socks fitted inside (I've climbed F6c like this indoors). Whilst I'm not saying this is optimal I would go for a snug rather than tight fit in something comfortable which doesn't have such an aggressive heel as the anasazi, maybe the scarpa techno x.The aggressive heel on the Anasazi is designed to cram your toes in to the end of the boot.
Post edited at 13:38
 Fraser 12 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

I have a pair of the Vapour Vs and although they are a comfortable all-round shoe, they suffer slightly from being a "jack of all trades but master of none". I'm also looking for a stiff, edging shoe right now and can't really recommend the Vapours in that category.
 MischaHY 13 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

I like my pinks for edging. I bought them for slab to vertical climbing and they deliver pretty well. Just don't take them near pockets!

I bought mine and then onsighted E5, if that's any endorsement!
OP Juicymite86 14 Jun 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

Tried loads on in shol and the one that fitted well and sounds like itl suit me was the pinks, tried to get roped into the ls katana by some kids in the shop but it wouldnt be of much help to me
Got the pinks for 95 quid, just want to die the upper black so it doesnt stand out now
 MischaHY 14 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

Noooooooooo! Pink all the way! Crush those gender stereotypes
OP Juicymite86 14 Jun 2015
Haha i like the colour myself but dont want people to assume im spiderman! Im a queit climbing not a flash oohh look at me one lol
 jon 14 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

Black shoes are hot shoes. Keep them out of the sun.
 MischaHY 14 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

Ahh loads of people have got pinks now don't worry about getting noticed!
 Hannes 14 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

> Been looking at the scarpa vapour v...not sure about the velcro though, any good?

There are vapour laces which have the stiffer rubber making them even better at edging. They have now become my go to shoe after half a dozen pairs of anasazis. They don't have the same level of stickiness on smearing on grit but for everything else I prefer them
 Pagan 15 Jun 2015
In reply to Hannes:

> There are vapour laces which have the stiffer rubber making them even better at edging.

Are these still available in the UK? My last pair have started to lose their edge and I'd love to replace them as they've been my regular sport and trad shoe for the last 3 or 4 years but I can't seem to find them anywhere.

To the OP: Sportiva Miura VSs are the stiffest shoes I've used.
 1poundSOCKS 15 Jun 2015
In reply to Pagan:

> Are these still available in the UK?

Limited sizes here...

http://www.theclimbingdepot.co.uk/shop/product/scarpa-vapour-lace-up
In reply to Pagan:

V12 had a few on sale yesterday.

They haven't been discontinued and any Scarpa stockist will be more than happy to order them in.

That said you could just buy them direct from Scarpa: http://www.scarpa.co.uk/climb/vapour-xsg-edge/

Or if they've not got a hole in the toe get Llanberis Resoles to resole them. They've resoled mine twice and they were like new both times.

 Toerag 16 Jun 2015
In reply to littlejon86:

The old white sportiva cliffs were a phenomenal edging machine, no idea how the new ones compare. Muira laces are pretty good, and noticeably popular with top yosemite climbers.
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...