UKC

As the title says, which on to get?

The website recommends to get the 1000 if you climb below or up to 7c. And get the 2000 if you climb "harder". Of course that's all relative I suppose.

Now, I've climbed one 7c. Wouldn't exactly call me a 7c climber. Climbed about 10 7b's. My main weakness is finger strength (I don't boulder enough I suppose) and I was hoping doing deadhangs/pullups on a beastmaker would (slightly) remedy this.

I was thinking getting the 1000, as the 2000's holds might be too tiny/hard/painful especially if finger strength is a weakness of mine? Or should I look at it the other way, if I get the 1000, already being a "7c climber" whatever that may mean and be an accurate measure of finger strength, the 1000 may not make me gain finger strength fast enough or less effective.

I'm leaning more towards the 1000, I'm thinking I can still improve more than enough and train on a 1000, but would be interested to hear what you guys (who might have one) have to say about this.

In reply to HosteDenis:

I would be inclined to err on the side of caution - hangboarding is a bizarre experience if you're not used to it. Equally, if you find the 1000 to be easy, then it seems that there are often many people who have been a little optimisitc, purchased a 2000 and want to swap for a 1000 - so it's not hard to upgrade.

In reply to HosteDenis:

The only real benefit of the 1000 is it has 2 massive jugs. You may as well get the 2000, thats what I have and I'm no where near bouldering 7c but still have no regrets!

In reply to mcgovern:
Personally I think the 1000 is simpler to use for a good work out.

The really complex choice of holds on the 2000 must be good if your training for a really specific problem or weakness, but I get the feeling that isn't what you want it for.

Easy to make a harder workout on either board by changing to frenchies or adding weight.

Also, I wouldn't worry about gaining finger strength quickly - that sounds like a short cut to injury.

In reply to LJC:


You're right, and I'm not thinking about gaining it quickly. But it is something that I'm planning/willing to work on and if I do it a few times a week for a year who knows... But I've been climbing long enough to not believe in training miracles/shortcuts

Leaning more and more towards the 1000, I guess. So thanks for the tips so far!

In reply to HosteDenis:

The best I've seen (and would buy if I had space to mount) is http://snapclimbing.com/training-boards-climbing-snap/44-snapboard-training...

Dead simple and offset spaced edges are more ergonomic to hang on.

In reply to HosteDenis:

Yeah, the 1000. I climb around the same grades as you and the easiest session on the app for the 1000 is still giving me a hard time.

In reply to HosteDenis:

I've only just started fingerboarding (and more than endurance style rather than max strength to begin with) and I've not done anything that I couldn't do on a nicely rounded 1-1.5 pad edge. Perhaps you could just pay a fiver for a nice campus rung (or fashion one yourself) until you get used to it and then could fork out for the 2000 if you get into it.

I said I was going to fingerboard for years before starting recently, it's very boring but at least it's measurable.

In reply to HosteDenis:
Hi, if you have a pull up bar already in the house, go with the 2000 as it has more options. If you have not fingerboarded before then your likely to make some very quick improvements, something with more options may keep the improvements going for longer.

If you dont have a pull up bar go for the 1000. One interesting note, I find the small crimps on the 1000 to be smaller than those on the 2000. Either way, once you are bored with either's setup you can switch to one handed hangs rather than add weight.

In reply to JLS:


Oh dear. I was aiming to complete the Beastmaker 5A routine some time this year but I only redpoint around 7a. Perhaps I'm being overambitious.

In reply to HosteDenis:

Just to check, you've done a single Font 7C and a bunch of Font 7B's, or are we talking french/sport grades?

Either way, i'd go for the 1000 - I'm a solid f8 route climber and the majority of holds on the bottom rail of my 2000 go unused. The 1000 would have given me more options IMHO

In reply to AlanLittle:

I'm probably just very weak and have found soft-touches to bump up my grades.

I've only had three sessions at the Beastmaker 5A rountine so it's still early days for me. I'm hoping to complete the rountine on Monday though I expect I'll still not get the full 7sec hangs on the hard four finger hang from the shallow holds.

In reply to Ally Smith:



No, I'm talking french sport grades. I thought me using french sport grades was obvious since I said I don't boulder enough, but yeah I could've been more specific.

So it'll probably be the 1000 then. How's the app? I've heard about it. Does it have timers/count down/tell you what to do?

In reply to HosteDenis:

Yeah, the app shows a picture of what holds to use with a bleeping timer to count you in to the hangs and rests. I gather there are better ways of training with a fingerboard but if like me, you've not used a board before, then it seem like a good start.

In reply to HosteDenis:


I used the app for the first time today. It's really clear and easy to use and I find that the preset workout gave me more motivation, I usually only do 3 or 4 sets and get bored, but the app dragged 12 sets (almost!) out of me. Unfortunately they don't have a 1000 at The Depot, so I struggled to match the correct slots.

In reply to HosteDenis:

Get the 2000. Still good holds to warm up on and youll never have to trade up.

In reply to HosteDenis:

Another vote for the 1000. Doing the full 5A circuit is well hard. I have never completed it. The 5B is even harder and I haven't looked at the others yet. Essential that you use it properly - so use a timer and record your sessions etc.