UKC

Bit of a weird one - went to Challaborough - South Devon with the wife this weekend for general holiday (no climbing) and we took the dog to the only local beach we could walk him on which was Ayrmer Cove. Whilst not getting time to properly investigate there does look like there could be a route or two down there in fact one looks very familiar from an old topo I remember seeing.
I attach a link so you can see a pick on Bing images - anyone with any experience/knowledge of this bit of rock?

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=ayrmer+cove&view=detailv2&&...

In reply to dickie01:

I went there 30 years ago looking for new routes and found that the rock was very soft. Even below the high tide mark the rock was rubbish. The cliffs are impressive but completely unreasonable. It is a great place to swim.

In reply to dickie01:

I have to agree with Pete. That was certainly my impression and Pete and I certainly experienced some rubbish rock in those days! However, if you return to S Devon again I suggest you have a nose around Hope Cove. There's been some impressive development there recently, not all of it on disposable rock.

In reply to pete osullivan:

I must admit it didn't look lie the sort of rock you would want to trust gear in, maybe the odd good bit. definitely nice beach for dog walking and swimming in though. thanks for the feedback

In reply to Iain Peters:

That's really interesting to hear about Hope Cove as I used to climb all over the rocks when I was little as my big brother worked in the Cottage Hotel. I've been back a few times with the wife but not looked at any climbing. thanks for the tip!

In reply to dickie01:

The new climbs are on Bolt Tail not in Hope's Cove

In reply to pete osullivan:

Hi Pete,

I have to confess to a vested interest. I have added 8 routes to Bolt Tail HS to E3 in the last couple of months and plan to do a couple more before I go more public. It is a very tidal venue and exposed to the wind and waves so opportunities are a bit limited.
I'd like to get your old project done. I have improved on your old stake belay. If I got it I think Petered Out would be a great name

Cheers,
Pete S

In reply to Iain Peters:

Hi Iain,

Have peered over the edge in the vicinity of your VS but you can't see much. Looking out there is a huge ledge system to the left so I guess your route is to the right. I have identified Pat's routes - El Draco looks awesome. I even whacked an extra stake in for Privateer.

On another note I repeated your excellent Matchless today - definitely worth E1. The peg seems good but the belay tat is poor and undecipherable. It would be great to cut it all away and start again - not that I'm offering (rather busy in S Devon).

Pete S

In reply to Kafoozalem:

Hi Pete,

I never got round to writing up or naming that VS. It was a "present" from Messrs Littlejohn and Garner who informed me that they had found a classic and solid exploratory V Diff for me which would open up further possibilities on an impressive buttress. Now I've climbed a few fairly loose routes in my time and this one was never V Diff and extremely promiscuous. It's on the buttress opposite El Draco. I'll send you a photo with the line marked.

Mark Kemball is going to Oldwalls today for the guide, so the tat's days are numbered! I also aim to clean and reclimb Dominator to the left of More Than... It was definitely a worthwhile route and possibly I under graded it.

Four Points Climbing are going to hit S Devon on 18th July so if there's anything we can do to help let us know.

Pete O'S: I know these routes are at Bolt Tail, but the closest access is from Hope Cove along the coastal footpath.

In reply to Iain Peters:

Your VS is called Old Dogs if you're happy with that. Pat supplied me with the details and a camera phone picture from the opposite headland. I really need to go over there and retake it because it isn't the clearest. I have viewed his routes from below - very impressive.

Good to hear Matchless will be tidied up. I deserves it. I opted for the arête finish because the crack looked so dirty but it does have the odd loose block and is a bit run out.

Email me if you want to see the info I have for Old Dogs and I'll send you an attachment if you supply your email.

Pete S

In reply to Kafoozalem:

Thanks Pete. Had completely forgotten the name! Sadly I later went on to climb a 110m XS at The Lizard with Gareth Palmer which we also called Old Dogs. Obviously one or other will have to become New Tricks!!

In reply to Iain Peters:

Ha ha! I can change it if you wish

In reply to Kafoozalem:

Agree with Matchless at E1 Pete but a 60 mtr rope might be good advice on this one! Great sustained climbing.