UKC

Hi, can I confirm what the current exit point is from North wall?
I know you can no longer exit off the top and have to ab down, but last time I was there we were unable to find any rings to put the rope through other than those on the extreme left of the great ledge (about 5m left of the exit of LH route) which looked very precarious to get to. We were expecting to find rings in the middle of the ledge according to an old post but we couldn't locate them (ok it was getting dark, but we were expecting them to be fairly prominent).
We ended up using the tree at the top of LH route but this puts a huge strain on the rope when dragging it down as well as damage to the tree so don't want to repeat this technique.

Cheers in advance.

In reply to Bounce Like a Fish:

There is a fully equipped ab station (60 metre ropes recommended) on the Great Ledge just a couple of metres to the right (facing in) of a large boulder and the start of Bacchanalian. All details can be found on the Wintour's Leap link!
Wintour's Leap

In reply to Bounce Like a Fish:

Hi

There are two staple bolts in the middle (well, slightly left of middle) of the Great Ledge, on the back wall above the finish to The Tap - the bolts you spotted further out left were (I believe) placed to facilitate re-equipping of the routes on North Buttress (i.e. the far left-hand end of North Wall) below. The abseil bolts were certainly still there two weeks ago, so I suspect you must just have missed them in the fading light. You can also get to the ab station above Joe's route by walking right along Great Ledge, round the arete, to its far right hand end and then scrambling down slightly.

Cheers
Rick (Wye Valley Access Rep)

In reply to Rick Sewards:

The advantage of scrambling down to the abseil station on joe's route is that 50m ropes will get you all the way to the ground in one abseil

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

Thanks for the quick response, I'll try to remember to take a head-torch next time

Do you think 50m doubles will be ok if you allow for stretch, I think the ledge is about 47-48m from the floor and about 3m wide, so with 1m stretch maybe?

Cheers

In reply to Rick Sewards:



Hey Rick I can confirm the staple bolts were still there as of yesterday evening, having used them to ab off after finishing Nibelheim on a glorious evening! Cheers Dave

In reply to Bounce Like a Fish:


Hmmm possibly though I have always used 60's! I guess you could ab down on your 50's to the Main Ledge and you can easily see if they reach the ground from there. Or probably better still scramble down the far end of the Great Ledge and use the ab station at the top of Joe's Route!

In reply to BALD EAGLE:

2x50m ropes just reaches the floor, I've done it many times on mine. You have to have the knot at the rings rather than putting it over the edge though, otherwise you will be slightly too short. Always best to check when you get close to the bottom, there is another ab point from the large ledge 10m from the bottom too so if your ropes don't make it then you can ab from there.

Joes route can be done with 2x50m ropes.

In reply to Bounce Like a Fish:

I thought that I had done it on 50's but even if you can't there are ab points on the lower ledge if I recall.

Al

In reply to BStar:

ah, good to know as I had always assumed it was too far to make in one with 50s.

In reply to BALD EAGLE:


Your memory is going Bald Eagle! We used my 50s after doing Right Hand route the other day - you sent me down first to check they'd get there : )

In reply to Bobling:
The other day?! According to my logbook we did RHR early March over 3 months ago! And did we really use your 50's? I have absolutely no recollection of that so I am obviously turning senile and need a good holiday! Good job I'm off in a couple of weeks....