UKC

Where's the best destination for multipitch in September? Looking for somewhere with reliable warm, sunny weather, single pitch (for my friends) and options for non climbing activities.

Ideally not too difficult to get to from Scotland too.

I quite fancy Sardinia but from what I can tell, the majority of the multi pitches are in the harder grades.

Finale also looks good, but I've heard that it's a bit polished?

In reply to Elsier:

Finale would be a good choice and with the exception of a very few routes on Monte Cucco there is no polish (quite the opposite in fact - hard on the skin!).

In reply to Elster:

You'd find stuff to suit you in Orpierre or the Calanques. Fly from Edinburgh to Marseille with Ryanair... but really deep down in your heart you know you really really want to go to Kalymnos.

Hi,

In Sardinia there's loads at any grade, any style and any rock type. And there's the sea too. The downside is the logistics. You have to drive and walk to most places. Also September may be still a little too hot so you may have to adapt a little or wake up early. The new Pietra di Luna "Trad & Multipitches" guidebook is quite comprehensive. A route, any route, on Punta Giradili is not to be missed as well as getting on top of Aguglia di Goloritzé (routes are nice, nothing special, but standing on top of that thing is priceless )

I know Finale quite well and I love it. People have climbed in the area since the 30's Obviously it's not virgin rock, but "polished" is something else. The rock is mostly sharp and abrasive and you'll find your skin wears out faster than usual when climbing in Finale. Bric Pianarella is the main multi pitching wall. Slash+Catarifrangente, hard (but not too hard), is one of the routes that best summarises climbing in Finale...

But... if you like granite and you don't mind using some gear... don't dismiss Orco... September it's usually prime time... of course the weather is less safe... Just a thought.

Ciao,

Nic

In reply to James Rushforth:

Thanks James that's good to know, Finale does sound like a good option.

In reply to JLS:

I am a bit put off from visiting the Calanques after all the tales of car break ins that I have read.

Kalymnos sounds great, I was having a look at the climb Kalymnos website and looks like there are quite a few multi pitch options, which look like they would keep me busy for a week. Unfortunately the weekend flights from Scotland are super expensive and the mid week flights would mean I would have to use 7 days annual leave rather than 5, because the flights get in at 2am.

Will look into Opierre, is there much in the way of big multi pitches, or are they all shorter routes?

In reply to Elsier:

Depends what you mean by 'big' multipitch at Orpierre. Certainly there are plenty at 3 or 4 pitches

In reply to Nicola Ciancaglini:

Thanks Nicola, Sardinia looks amazing! That looks like exactly the kind of climbing I would love, I really enjoy routes that finish on a summit. I don't mind a bit of driving and walking and the beaches look they would be a great bonus too. I don't mind the heat, if there are options for climbing in the shade? The only difficulty might be persuading my friends as there are not direct flights from Scotland.

Sounds like Finale would be a good option as well if my friends don't want to go to Sardinia.

Orco sounds great, I really like granite trad (need to work on my slab climbing and jamming though) but I think my friends would probably prefer more sport options for this trip and I really want to go somewhere with reliable weather. So maybe somewhere for a future trip.

In reply to Elsier:

how about Ailefroide you said you liked Granite? I think september here is amazing for climbing, and there is plenty of single sports routes as well including the Durance valley there are 4 different rock types and over 3300 routes,

as for weather september is normally good last few years, hot but not to hot, having said that it is the mountains so never 100% but where is?

i live in the durance valley 20 mins from Ailefroide, if you would like any more info please drop me a email, Rob@dream-trails.com

cheers Rob

In reply to Elsier:

Quiquillion sector at Orpierre has half a dozen or so 6 to 8 pitch routes.

In reply to ecrinscollective:

Thanks for the suggestion. I do really like granite, but I've never been that keen on Ailefroide as I don't really like slabs, and I've heard that the majority of routes at Ailefroide as slabby.

I'm sure you're right that the weather is normally good, but being in the mountains it won't be as reliable as places like Sardinia and Finale.

It's been pretty wet and cold in Scotland this year, so I just really want to go somewhere warm and sunny. If we'd been having a better summer, I'd probably be less particular about that!

In reply to JLS:

Thanks, that's good to know, think I will add Opierre to the shortlist, especially as it's within driving distance for a (long) day trip for a route in the Vercors that I really want to do.

But be good to be based somewhere further out of the mountains with more reliable weather, and lots of options for everyone in the group.