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NZClimber 23 Jun 2015
Hi Guys,

I am a Kiwi that is in the midst of getting to the UK/Europe for hopefully 4-5 years, a large focus on all types of climbing in my ambition for the trip

I want to kick off in the UK, but am having a hard time figuring out where a good place to base would be,

My climbing is a large mix of everything, however all I really seem to see/hear of your UK trad climbing is crazy run out and poor placements which seems just crazy! haha

Ideally would love to base in a good area to get a bit of good strong sports climbing (dont understand the grades, but I think about 7b ish) some nice trad/multi-pitch and a bit of bouldering

Just wanting advice and local knowledge! any help would be super!
 Dell 23 Jun 2015
In reply to NZClimber:

Stick a pin in a map on the centre of the UK, and head there!

All the Kiwi's of course, head to SW London. Not much climbing to be there but well connected.
 galpinos 23 Jun 2015
In reply to NZClimber:

Do you need work and if so, what type (this will affect where you base yourself I guess?)

General answers:

Cities with Work:

Sheffield - The centre of the climbing universe, close to the peak for after work trips (grit and lime, bouldering, trad and sport) and not too far to Yorkshire for more grit and lime bouldering Trad and Sport

Leeds - As per Sheffield but bigger so better jobs?

Manchester - Less good for after work, better for access to North Wales, the Lakes, probably better for jobs?

If it's just for the climbing, I'd base myself in North Wales or the Lakes.
In reply to NZClimber:

We did a series of articles a few years ago which might be useful reading for you:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/older.html?q=Relocate

Alan
 Offwidth 23 Jun 2015
In reply to NZClimber:

Snowdonia is probably the best base for variety and mixed weather options: Trad single and multipitch from valley to mountains, sea cliff trad, great bouldering and good sports climbing and lots of different rock types.
 Rog Wilko 23 Jun 2015
In reply to NZClimber:



all I really seem to see/hear of your UK trad climbing is crazy run out and poor placements which seems just crazy!


What an awful calumny. Nothing could be further from the truth (and I don't write ironically). It's (partly) because 99.9% of UK routes can be well protected that we don't have many bolted crags.
 Jon Stewart 23 Jun 2015
In reply to NZClimber:
> I want to kick off in the UK, but am having a hard time figuring out where a good place to base would be,

Scotland has all the best climbing, but weather and midges are problems. For a really world class/experience of a lifetime head out to the uninhabited islands of the Hebrides for a week or two:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=6162

The Northwest coast of the mainland has fantastic climbing in really beautiful scenery, both single pitch stuff and mountain routes; the Scottish mountains in general (e.g. GlenCoe, Ben Nevis, Cairngorms) have big routes but it's relatively hard to get them in dry condition. Almost exclusively trad of course (although there are sport crags they're more the scraps than the main events).

> My climbing is a large mix of everything, however all I really seem to see/hear of your UK trad climbing is crazy run out and poor placements which seems just crazy! haha

That's just on videos.

The South West of England is another area to consider: lots of variety, some amazing rock on the Cornish Coast, also deep water soloing, but a little bit quiet if you're looking for partners. (Comparatively) good weather, nice beaches, high quality savoury pastry snacks.

North Wales is packed full of climbers, and has loads of variety: mountain, adventurous sea cliffs, the weird slate quarries, limestone sport, bouldering. A great place to spend some time. Include a trip to Pembroke too (south Wales, a surprisingly long drive from the north). Hundreds of high quality trad limestone sea cliff routes: adventurous and convenient at the same time.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=1794

I'd try to get to all these places if you can. Where to base yourself? Depends on what you need for work really...probably one of the best places to get a lot of climbing done while having a job is Sheffield. The climbing's nowhere near as exciting as the stuff above (outcrops, boulders, crap polished limestone) but you can get there after work in the summer.



Edit: I'm not suggesting you base yourself for 4-5 years on Pabbay and Mingulay btw. That would be an odd trip.
Post edited at 11:33

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