UKC

Cuba

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McClimbing 25 Jun 2015
Hi

I'm fairly new to climbing and totally new to this forum! Hoping someone out there might be able to give some advice on climbing in Cuba. Have read some exciting things about climbing there, especially here: www.cubaclimbing.com.

I'll be there in late August and I'm trying to figure out how feasible it will be to do some climbing. One query is the heat - i.e. does much climbing happen at that time of year? The other issue is my ability level and the fact I'll be travelling solo...

Although I started climbing well over a year ago I've just returned to indoor climbing after a long break due to an injury, so I'm only climbing quite easy stuff right now and have never really done any leading (I led what I think was a grade 2 on Portland once, but that's it!!). I'll be travelling on my own and would therefore need to buddy up with people who are happy to have me tag along, and lead on routes that are easy enough for me to have a go at. And hopefully relax and camp out with beers afterwards

If anyone has any experience, info, advice, anything... I'd be really grateful.

Cheers!

Katie
Removed User 25 Jun 2015
In reply to McClimbing:

You don't drink beer in Cuba, you drink mojitos. Lots of them! Now back to climbing. Unfortunately I haven't climbed in Cuba, but I did visit some climbing spots in Vinales. Protection looked solid and not that spaced. It was explained to me that climbing is a rather grey area there - neither allowed nor forbidden - whatever that means. Keep a low profile and you should be fine. There are no climbing shops, but I was told you could rent the equipment. Don't expect anything shiny, though. Locals are very friendly and will be happy to show you around (for a CUC or two, but that's just how it works) and you should have no problem getting in touch with local climbers. One of the places to start is Raul's farm in Vinales. Everybody knows the guy and he makes the best mojito ever. I can't remember seeing any camps there, everybody stayed at Casas particulares. I won't bother you with further details, but should you have any questions about Cuba in general, feel free to ask.

P.
 JJL 25 Jun 2015
In reply to McClimbing:
Hi Katie

I went to Cuba last year and climbed based at Vinales.

We stayed with Oscar Jaime - who is pretty much the founding father of climbing in the area - a nice Casa with excellent food. Oscar can put you in touch with local climbers, probably on a guided basis if you're going on your own. We got friendly with Raul and had a drink with him on the way home each day. It can be very nice indeed.

Now the bad news. We were there in July and it was very hot (and humid). August will be worse. Not many visitors climbing at that time of year - we saw nobody else climbing in a week (we were also travelling and diving). There's not really a camping scene. Additionally, the best routes are not in the easy grades - you will get frustrated if you spend all your time jungle bashing easy routes.

Overall, I'm really sorry - but I'd advise a different destination. If you are going to Cuba anyway, then Vinales is really worth visiting - ride horses, climb a bit, swim in rivers - but the rest of the country will be the prime reward for going, not the climbing (above 6b, and especially above 7a, that changes). In three weeks the things that were amazing were diving with 20+ silky sharks in Jardines de la reina, swimming in mountian waterfalls, Trinidad town, backstreets of Havana - so you can have a great trip but not, at your grades, just climbing.

If your destination is open and social climbing is a key aspect then I'd suggest either Kalymnos, or Font or Thailand. Probably Thailand would be closest to the cuban style climbign (tufas etc.) but best for meeting partners and having a good time.

Happy to give more detail on any of those if it helps, or indeed Cuba (and non climbing must dos) if that is a fixed plan.

J
Post edited at 21:29
 JJL 25 Jun 2015
In reply to McClimbing:

On other point - you will need to take *all* your own gear - even if you get a local "guide". They've no gear supply in country.
 Alfrede 14 Jul 2015
In reply to McClimbing:
I guide walking regularly in Cuba and it is a magic place, with Vinales one of the loveliest areas. Despite my love of the place I wouldn't dream of going climbing there. There are scores of fine exotic climbing destinations now all over the world and this is not one of them. Cuba is hot and humid all year, the climbing is very limited and nearly all hard, and worst of all the country, though full of lovely ordinary people, is run by Neanderthals with beards who don't remotely understand climbing and intermittently try to stop it for no reason in particular. I understand the enthusiasm of local climbers there who can't go anywhere else (see note on government above) but don't let that mislead you. I recommend a Vinales holiday with all possible enthusiasm but go somewhere else to climb.
 llanberis36 14 Jul 2015
In reply to McClimbing:

Hi Katie

Probably not very helpful but have just this week come back from Havana, not climbing but just enjoying. As others have said it is very very hot and humid, and being a climber, there would have no chance of climbing last week. Even the late evenings are humid
My advice like the others, is just go and enjoy the people, the mojitas, the history, the differance, and see how many people come up to you and ask if you know Ali G...............others will understand what I mean hopefully

Have fun, and remember, no one ever, ever, rushes to do anything in Cuba
 pacman 24 Jul 2015
In reply to McClimbing:

Sorry, forgot to reply to this thread earlier.

Was there in the summer a couple of years ago, did some climbing with locals in Vinales (just hooking up for a climb, not on hired guide basis) and visited other areas of Cuba too. Post here or e-mail me if you're still looking for more information.

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