UKC

Hi
Does anybody have any experience locking a screwgate? i.e. crushing the mechanism so that it can't be removed?

Would this compromise the safety of the device?

Cheers

In reply to JimboWizbo:

It would probably be quite difficult to achieve any real security and it seems rather ill-advised, though I guess that depends on what you want to use it for?

As a worst case scenario, if the crushing somehow damaged the way the gate latches onto the carabiner body, it's still hard to see how the carabiner could be any weaker than its gate-open strength so I guess you could use that as a low-ball strength figure and consider whether that's strong enough for the application you have in mind.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Why not use a maillon instead? Cheaper and safer.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Stick some epoxy resin glue in the threads and then screw it up.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

That sounds like a good solution. Have you done this in the past?

In reply to JimboWizbo:


Not personally, but I've seen it done loads of times for in-situ ab points and so-on.

In reply to JimboWizbo:


Depends how you do it. I've accidentally deformed the locking collar on one of mine recently so the part of the collar that covers the nose was deformed and pressed tight into the flattened part of the nose preventing the collar turning. I straightened it out eventually and am still using it, it's not a load bearing part so I'm not worried about the strength. Actually doing it deliberately and with the krab in situ would be tricky, you'd need a hammer and blunt punch or perhaps some adjustable plumbers grips to crush the collar.

I'd consider a maillon and threadlock/glue. Ali krabs left out in the weather don't last long anyway.

jk

In reply to jkarran:

Hi jk

I haven't considered how well they will last in the elements.

What do you reckon, aluminium screwgates on lower offs - bad idea? The plan was to replace the single, old, rusty maillon on each belay with two of these.

In reply to JimboWizbo:


Aluminium screwgates will last a fair while, but they are more prone to rope wear and corrosion. If you really want a long-lasting setup, get a stainless steel krab or maillon, which will last decades.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Rope wear is less of a concern, only because it's a very unpopular quarry. It's our local so we want to feel safer when lowering off. As long as aluminium won't simply corrode in the elements then I think we're OK to use the screwgates.

Thanks

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Well you'll have dissimilar metals in contact and the gates/threads on locking krabs hold water speeding up the rot. In a salty environment they won't last a year, in a sheltered environment with little salt they'll last longer but still aren't the best solution.

jk

In reply to JimboWizbo:

8mm 35kN maillons are less than 3 quid from Bergfreunde, plated steel. A bit more digging will get you stainless steel if you want. Cheaper and a better solution than a crab.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

There's a lot of good advice and products at:

http://www.bolt-products.com/MaillonsRingsandChain.htm

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Has it been considered that someone unfamiliar with the setup might see a krab and assume they can unscrew it, so attempt to clip it from a less than secure position and end up falling and being injured, rather than using a cow's tail as they might if they knew they would have to thread a maillon?

I don't think gear should be used in that way as not intended. Why do you prefer krabs over a maillon which is perfect for the purpose?

In reply to Neil Williams:

Hi Neil

I'm asking because I've seen a bulk lot of screwgates for cheap (cheaper than maillons). I've wanted to improve these lower offs (out of my own pocket) for a long time but haven't had opportunity.

From the advice I've received I'm going to hold off and wait until I can afford stainless steel equipment to do it properly.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

I noticed Alpkit have some inexpensive Faders steel screwgates in. I don't have any experience of using Faders kit for a long time so no idea what sort of quality they are now but perhaps worth a look.

In reply to ultrabumbly:

Basic steel screwgates aren't very expensive anyway, eg: http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/St...

Bog standard galvanised maillons are cheaper than that, eg: http://www.caving-gear.co.uk/show_product.asp?id=836

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Ah I see. Yes I think in this case I'd wait until it can be done with maillons, though I expect you can probably find some of these more cheaply than screwgates[1] if you look hard enough.

[1] Unless you're talking non-CE/UIAA far Eastern rubbish, in which case you'd be best not bothering at all as someone might end up being killed as a result when one fails to live up to its specification.

Neil