UKC

Hi Folks,

It would be great to get a thread started on routes on the high crags that are clean/climbable VS-E by gum. Weather is getting better (for a bit). Any information, routes you have done recently, useful blogs etc would be most appreciated.

In reply to Dan Mckinlay:

This list will give you a small idea


http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=617636

In reply to Dan Mckinlay:

The weather Saturday night/yesterday morning was atrocious, so things that were climbable on Saturday may no longer be if they're affected by drainage.

In reply to Dan Mckinlay:

I agree this would be good and would hope people who climb anything other than "the usual suspects" post. As a very brief start, routes I have recently climbed that do not get over many ascents but are clean enough to enjoy are Red Groove on Pavey, Red Dwarf at Nab Crag and The Final Giggle on Castle Rock.

In reply to tmawer:

I'll post some "not the usual suspects" suggestions if someone starts an equivalent thread for sub-VS

In reply to tmawer:


In a similar category on Pavey are Retinal Detachment, Blood on the Tracks and Shelter from the Storm.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Why not stick them on this thread.....a clean route is a clean route!

In reply to tmawer:

We did Rainbow Ridge on the Napes on Saturday - Severe in the guide, we reckoned bold HS 4b for the initial slab. A bit mossy (it takes drainage) but didn't affect the climbing. We cleaned some of the holds, but they're probably dirty again after the rain. A fine route that deserves more traffic.

Later on we did The Crack on Kern Knotts Lower. Completely filthy and full of moss/lichen/slime. I suspect it's always like that, so it's now in prime condition. Very traditional VDiff.

Oh, and we also did an obscure route called Abbey Buttress, not bad but the others were better.

In reply to tmawer:
Red Groove great route T, and does not get done much.
DC

For a low level shaded option a couple of weeks ago on Millicans Buttress in Borrowdale we cleaned and climbed:

- Liquid Morphine (E2 but probably E3 6a). Its probably one of the best of its grade in the valley that no one has heard of. Worthy of a third star.
- Sheriff of Nottingham (E6). It can be top roped easly from the tree immediately above.

It is an obscure crag, but quite close to the road and away from the masses at Shepherds.

It is also probably worth mentioning this thread from 2013: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=552379&v=1#x7409480 . All the things on Boat Howe were thoroughly scrubbed by us then so re-ascents would help them to keep clean. Similarly in 2013 I replaced all of the ab tat on Tapestry etc on Pillar and added maillions so after a dry spell these routes should come into decent nick.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks everyone for your local knowledge and great advice about climbable routes. We did visit some usual suspects on Gimmer last Tuesday climbing Kipling Grove, Springbank and Whits end direct (which has some stuck gear by the crux) I'll hopefully be getting back up late next week for more so any more knowledge on routes would be most welcome.

In reply to Si Litchfield:

Thanks Si, I'll have a look at these next week hopefully.