UKC

Has anyone climbed at the batu caves near KL? I'm heading there this month and looking for any advice from people who have visited.

I'll need to find a partner to climb with so any tips on that would be great. Also looking for somewhere to stay. Is there anywhere that I'm more likely to bump into other climbers or am I better off just heading to the crag and trying to find someone there?

Any help would be awesome.

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

We had a couple of days climbing there a couple of years ago. There's an amazing climbing wall at the 1 Utama shopping mall. Probably the best indoor wall I've ever visited...a good place to meet other climbers (both expats and locals). Batu caves itself: The climbing isn't wonderful, but it's OK for a few routes. Check out the steeper sectors for the best climbing. Can't recall any names, but there is one wall that translates as "mosquito" for very obvious reasons! Great climbing, but take lots of bug spray.

Definitely go and check out the temple itself while you're there. Amazing experience and well worth an hour or so to look around. Sadly, most of the best looking rock is inside the temple complex = no climbing!

Don't be fooled into thinking the crag is right alongside the temple...we got the train to the temple thinking we'd walk to the crag and it took us ages wandering in the heat to find the crag.

In summary, I'd say the indoor wall is a must, but the crag itself is just ok compared with other locations in SE Asia.

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

Myself and my boyfriend threw our shoes in the bag "just in case" when we were heading to see the Batu Caves last September . The main area is about a ten minute walk north-west of the tourist area. It was a Sunday and dead busy at the crag. There was a small kiosk nearby renting out ropes, belay plates, harnesses etc which we took advantage of. We got in two climbs before we got rained out.

While we were there, we got talking to some locals who were telling us about the Camp 5 climbing wall in the city itself - seemed to be a bit of a hub so that might be the spot to find a partner.

The area around the Batu Caves was quite residential and we didn't see sight of a town or any sort, so I imagine you'd be better of staying in the city and getting the train out - it's a quick and straightforward journey.

In reply to 1234None:

And yes, loads of insect repellent. I got eaten alive.

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

Yes, and avoid the sun! I was also there a few years ago and can echo the same. A good crag for a few days max.

We stayed in a hostel in the center of KL, and actually the owner of the hostel turned out to be a climber. He gave us a lift to the crag and we climbed together and met some of his friends. I recall there being a small kiosk nearby that rented gear, but can't remember near which wall. Car is definitely the easiest way to get there, but i certainly wouldn't stay near the crag - there isn't much else there and its better being near the centre of KL, the food-stands, the life etc.

The temple itself is quite amazing. Do check it out and watch for the monkeys

Depending on your travel plans, if you make it to any other areas in Malaysia I can also give you a few tips on climbing areas, as we spent a month exploring and searching them out (e.g. Tioman Island or on Sarawak, Borneo)

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

Ok cool. Thanks for the advice. I was thinking about staying near the crag but maybe in town is better and just making my way out for a couple of days.

I have heard about camp 5. Sounds well worth the visit. Would be fun to get some gym climbing in for a bit.

I am going to Borneo for a bit but only the Malaysian part. I didn't know there was any climbing there. I've heard of trekking but not much else. Anything worth checking out?

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

I've climbed there a fair few times and at 1 Utama. The best times to climb at batu caves are early morning or late evening (there's normally people climbing once it's gone dark aswell). If you just turn up at Damai wall you'll probably find someone to climb with. If you'd rather pre-arrange try the facebook groups Malaysian Climbers Club (MCC) or Rock Climbing in Malaysia. Please don't rely on the kiosk been open for gear as it's been open about 50% of the times I've been.

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

For climbing on Borneo you've got some near Kuching that's good (big overhanging limestone walls that are sheltered when it rains and have routes from 4+ upwards). There's also a new area in development at Bako National Park which is sandstone routes but not sure how much is bolted yet. Otherwise you've got mountaineering and climbing around Mount Kinabalu (speak to Mountain Torq about options that aren't just the walk to the summit and back). If you go over to Sanadakan area there's an island there that's in development still but has 20-30 routes around the cliffs. Also there's a couple of places near KK but I've been advised not to bother with them by the guys at the KK climbing wall.

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

I climbed there at the beginning of this year and I quite liked it - there's long wall full of sports routes going up to around the 7s. We only had a 30m rope so we couldn't touch the long routes in the left section but they looked half decent.
There's nothing that stands out in particular, but the limestone is really good quality and there are a handful of nice overhangs. The locals are normally pretty nice; you'll find plenty of Euros hanging around the crag.
Make sure you go to the right area with the hut and the portable bouldering wall. And being a 60m rope if you have one, otherwise you could rent one from the guys who run the crag. Happy climbing

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

Thanks again for all the advice. I've just got in to KL today so I'll check it out over the next few days. Sounds like I'm going to have to give Camp 5 a visit as well.

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

As I live in KL I'll put my 2sens worth in.

Climbing is ok - if you like hot and humid weather, which we're getting at the moment. Damai is the most popular, with a well equipped routes, a clear relatively(!) mossie free area around the base of the routes. The link for access is here - http://footstepstonature.com/2013/08/10/rock-climbing-at-damai-wall-batu-ca...
http://wiraconsultant.tripod.com/damai_cave_training_centre.jpg - gives you an image of the cliff.
http://27crags.com/crags/batu-caves/topos/damai-wall has a list of sorts.Their web site should(?) lead you to a

If you search a bit on google then you'll get a recent topo to Damai - the old Climb Malaysia guidebook is either out of print or very hard to get.

As people say the climbing at Batu caves is not at the caves but round to the eastern side in the local houses. There is a restaurant with toilets at the base. You can get a taxi there - make sure you give him the correct address as he'll want to take you to the cave. As it's Ramadan please respect the locals at this time.

If it all get too hot and humid, then Camp 5 is the place to hang out in - the cafe there does good coffee and cakes. Would offer to take you out but school holidays start this week....

In reply to Mike00010:

The main area near Kuching is called Fairy Caves - its right next to a interesting tourist spot. It's not the easiest to get to under your own steam unless you rent a car or bike, but it is solid good climbing. So much so that they've held competitions there. Plenty for a day or two. However, I personally wouldn't go there unless you are happy climbing steep routes in the upper 6's. Anything below 6 is very dirty and often damp or overgrown. The steep routes in the main area however are excellent and really interesting, but very steep! Bolting is good quality.

http://sarawaktourism.com/attraction/rock-climbing-at-fairy-cave-bau/

What we found in Bako National park I wouldn't bother with - but it may have changed in the last 2 years.

As with most remote climbing in Malaysia, half the fun is the adventure of finding/getting to the crag and the novelty of such an interesting location - so even if the climbing isn't 5-star its still a great day It took us 5 days to get to/locate the climbing on Tioman Island before we actually did any climbing!

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

Batu Caves is ace, quality climbing. Bukit Takun is also a MUST! crazy, amazing rock - a mixture of limestone and granite! I found partners online, people at Camp 5 look at you funny if you mention climbing outside!

In reply to AlexD:

That's complete nonsense about Camp 5... the climbing wall staff were great and put me and others I know in touch with lots of local info and contacts (quite a few who used the wall).

In reply to AlexD:


I learned the hard way that nyamuk means mosquito in Malaysian language! We had DEET and mosquito coils and still had to flee the crag to avoid the mosquitoes. The climbing there is good, but the mozzies took all the pleasure out of it for us! This is especially true in the wet season....

In reply to Ben.o.neill:

I've said it before and I'll say it again...

If I was there I'd just go to 1 Utama and climb till I was hungry, go to the food court and gorge, back to the wall till hungry, back to food court and repeat ad nauseam (though not mid route at the wall) perhaps throwing in a film in the cinema at the mall for R&R (I think there is a cinema there?). Go and see the temple at Batu rather than climbing.

NB I have never climbed at Batu caves and have a deep and abiding love of Malaysian mall food so my opinion might not be entirely objective. Mmmm assam laksa.