UKC

Hi All,

Off to the peak for a week soon and want to finally do a E3 on grit.

I know this has been probably done to death but any helpful suggestions?

I'm thinking, The asp, Telli or Black Hawk Bastion for starters?

In reply to Graham Booth:

It depends on the weather of course, a lot of softer grit E3s are smeary slabs which may not be so good in hot weather.

Black Hawk Bastion would be OK in hot weather, but you'd be left with endless arguments about whether you'd only done an E2.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Im assuming not 40+ so slabs are in!

In reply to Graham Booth:

Telli is safe, short and not too hard so worth a shot.

In reply to Graham Booth:

Seem to remember Time for Tea being ok, but I might be forgetting how scary the top runout is - was a long time ago

In reply to Carless:

I though that Comet (E3 5c) was pretty soft. It's somewhat contrived, but at least that means it's easily escapable if you decided it wasn't the e3 for you!

In reply to Graham Booth:
There is one at Bamford that was upgraded, still low in grade as I recall. I'll dig out the route name in a bit.

No sorry, still E2 on UKC. There's an eliminate at Stanage near Pot Black and that lot, which is well protected for a reachy move, a bit contrived though. Sorry for the bum steer.

In reply to Graham Booth:

What sort of climbing normally suits you? The three that you've selected are in the safe but tricky category. You can get much easier E3's if you're willing to go bold. You could also go for something hard but no higher than a boulder problem if you're that way inclined.

Have you considered hitting the limestone? Scoop Wall at Stoney would be a much nicer climb in the warm weather, lovely and safe with a bridging crux above brilliant gear. And only just E3.
I love grit and I'd climb on it everyday if I could but don't underestimate how much harder stuff can feel in warm weather.

In reply to nick ingram:

>

the route next to Pot Black is called 'in off', and is pretty good. Right near Telli too, and Silica (shudders) which has just been upgraded to E3.

In reply to deacondeacon:
In Off (E3 5c).
That's the one.
I can vouch for it's safety if you fluff the hard move too.

In reply to Graham Booth:

If you want to tick the all-time easiest E3 then pick the right guide book, head to Lawrencefield, and do Scoop Connection. It's about HVS. The "E3" bit is just a walk (literally!).

In reply to Coel Hellier:
And it's really fun too
Then nip over the road for 'time for tea'. A big safe fall, with the crux on the E1 bit.

In reply to Graham Booth:

Telli increases in E grade for every inch you are lower than 5'10.....
Its Hard Sev if you're 6 ft

In reply to Coel Hellier:

I would have thought that if the OP genuinely wants to tick an E3 on Grit, it would be best to go for something that is uncontroversially, and definitively, E3. Otherwise you might just question, "Well, have I *really* climbed E3?"

In reply to Graham Booth:

My first was telli, warm up on some 5+,6a slab Boulder problems or pot black or something, maybe a bouldering pad or spotter or two might give you confidence on the lower moves. Impossible slab, time for tea similar vein, probably a bit harder but safer.

you need some padding on the boulders before any of these feel a good idea. Haven't done many others! Good luck.

In reply to rurp:

Hi all, thanks for the replays!

I want to tick a definitive e3 really, happy to be bold but like crimpy face climbing is more my mileau

In reply to rurp:

Hadn't thought about pot black, good call on stoney but love the grit

In reply to deacondeacon:

Was thinking of maybe Ascent of man...

In reply to Graham Booth:



Time for Tea a clear winner then

In reply to Si dH:

Looks good! Was on my ticklist

In reply to Graham Booth:

I know it's not grit but if you go south. Interrogation on haytor would be my suggestion.

In reply to islandlynx:

Yes that's also on my tick list!! And Kafoozalem

In reply to Graham Booth:

Telli, of course. That's what everyone else does.

jcm

In reply to Graham Booth:

Ascent of Man - yes, reasonable but a tad bold.

The Asp I would have thought was quite a hard E3, albeit reasonably safe.

jcm

In reply to Graham Booth:

Exit at Rivelin's a good route with a well-protected crux and easier bold climbing above. It would be horrible in hot conditions of course, but name me a grit route that wouldn't. Some nice E2s and 3s at that crag.`

I found Censor surprisingly amenable, the climbing is steep, on decent proper holds - a novelty. If you reckon the gear's OK, it isn't particularly bold - but it is small gear. Also on small gear but with nice, positive climbing is Dextrous Hare.

In reply to Graham Booth:

Black Hawk Bastion is E3 so that's a good one. Don't listen to the haters.

BUT I have the perfect route for you. Appalusa Sunset on the clouds at roaches is bold (I thought safe though) crimpy climbing, also on about the best grit you can climb on and probably my favourite route in peaks. It's made for you! I suspect lower end of grade but always hard to be sure. The holds are fairly positive so I reckon ok in heat.

Have fun!

In reply to Mark Warnett:

Cheers, wanted to do AS for ages