UKC

Saddle Head

Off to Saddle Head & want to know how I access the MOD area. Are there fixed abseil points or is there a path / scramble in? Thanks, Chris.

In reply to chriskinvig:
There is a scramble (go right along to the saddle of the"saddle" rock feature, before easily downclimbing to the ledge), or you can set up an abseil. I didn't see any fixed abseil anchors when I was there (and you're not allowed to use the fenceposts) - so we set one up and cleaned it when we left.
Hope that helps.

In reply to chriskinvig:
The rockfax guide has decent details of the approach. It's possible to set up an abseil on the right hand end of the wall parallel to the fence before walking across to the base of most of the routes. The routes around blue sky definitely need the right tide to access them, not sure about the rest of the crag.
Edit: Definitely don't use the fence posts in any of your anchors, there's plenty of gear at the top of the crag which can be used instead.

In reply to spenser:


No. Don't.

I once got bollocked by an MoD jobsworth for tying a small dog to the fence.

Access is well explained in the CC guide too.