UKC

Looking to take my girlfriend climbing in the area whilst we are down there visiting family. Anyone got any good advice on the best crag to head to for lower grade sport?

Ideally looking for 4+ and gentler 5's. I realise that often these routes are spaced out between lines and can often not be brilliant but having trawled hough the guide books and online advice I'm still undecided so a few extra opinions would be appreciated.

Many thanks

Tom

In reply to tom.fleming17:

Wyndecliff may be worth looking at

In reply to tom.fleming17:

There are a routes at ban-y-gor that would fit the bill. I don't think they are in the main guidebook though, just the supplement.

In reply to Mostin3:

Yeah I have looked at both of them, mainly ban-y-gor tbh and yeah been looking I the supplement as well.

In reply to tom.fleming17:

The access situation at Tintern is somewhat tentative at the moment (you may be asked to move on), but has loads of low grade sports climbs. If you climb on Thirty Foot Wall and Entry Wall the rock is reasonably solid (if the warning in the guide has put you off).

In reply to tom.fleming17:

There are some fantastic climbs in tintern on the 30ft wall. Be warned the right hand side of the wall (looking at it) has some very loose climbs! The climbs on the entry wall are pretty tough for the grade (at least I thought so anyway).

Other options are wyndcliffe quarry. There are a Cpl of routes on the lower tier and some on the far right side of the upper tier. The latter are poorly bolted tho so be careful on those routes! The top of many climbs on the lower tier can be reached from the upper tier which makes setting up a top rope nice and easy.

The woodcraft quarry has a few sport routes as well. This is the quarry above flywall at wintours leap. There are 3 really good lower grade routes in there. Slimming in the rain 4C, Moving on up 6A (to the lower ab station only) and out of your tree 5C.

have fun!

In reply to whenry:

and there is a topo for 30ft wall now on the CC website.