UKC

Determined to go to the Dollies this August for two weeks instead of Cham for a change. However, I've no idea where to start! Struggling to get my head around the layout, transport links, and where to stay. My first obvious guess is Cortina. Just looking to do a few of the classic via Ferrata and some big multi pitch routes. I lead HVS5a and 6a sport.

Any recommendations or advice would be great!

Many thanks,

Craig

In reply to cmars89:

Lots of people will give route advice, which will be better than mine at the grades you are looking at but here's my 2p.

Start early and plan your days so you are heading down by mid afternoon. A lot of the time you can set your watch by the afternoon thunderstorm.

In reply to cmars89:

Fly to Venice. Train to Belluno, bus to Corvara or Cortina. Dirt cheap as well.

In reply to cmars89:
My 2p (based on 1 visit)

What david says about thunderstorms is right.

You can't go wrong if you stay in Corvara.

Are you camping? If so, there is a great, but expensive, (but so is the whole place) campsite just up the valley from Corvara, at Colfosco.

From Corvara you have close access to numerous great VFs: Tridentina is just up the valley, Sandro Pertini is just over the pass near Selva( if it is still open), Trincee is over the other pass, up a cable car from Arabba (it is just fab - you go down WW1 tunnels, you get a great view of the Marmolada and everything), and the Pizda Lech is up a cable car/chair from Corvara itself, and is lovely.

You won't be alone on the VFs, especially the Tridentina, even if you start really early, but I found the company very congenial.

In reply to mbh:

I did Tridentina 2 weeks ago. Fantastic!

Whatever you do don't bail out at the escape two thirds of the way up where a path leads up to the refuge. A lot of folk did, but we didn't and I'm glad because that last section is the most exposed and best bit of the whole via feratta.

The refuge was open. You must treat yourselves to their Apple Struddle and cream!!

I agree about the crowds - it's very popular

Yummee

In reply to cmars89:

If you've not already take a look at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2708

Corvara / Colfosco - is my personal favourite location. Good access to the sport of Tridentina, Frea and Eiszeit. Multi-pitch routes on Mur de Pisciadu, Sass Ciampac and La parte oscura della luna, all on the doorstep. Then the Sella and Valporola / Falzarego passes are only a short drive away.

Or Cortina et al is a bit closer to the Tre Cime / Cinque Torri if that's what you're after. They'd be my preferences.

Mike from the forums also runs climbers accommodation: http://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk

Enjoy your trip!

In reply to James Rushforth:

Yeah we stayed at Corvara / Colfosco camping nice but pricey, would have preferred some where smaller, less busy and cheap, but I guess that's just not that area? Nice views.

In reply to cmars89:

The towers around Sella are roadside and have loads of great routes at the grade. Also the massive 500 metre cliffs Piz Ciavazes are worth some attention!

In reply to cmars89:

I have been out last couple of years and heading off in a couple of weeks. I think cortina is a decent base and cinque torre is a good place to acclimatize with sports routes and trad routes and of course the hybrid "Italian" sports routes which are a hybrid of the two.

There is tons of choice depending on what your after from 15min to alpine like walk ins

I think there is an artical on UKC about dollys and some good climbs. Its a great place

In reply to kingjam:

All very helpful cheers! The main reason I fancy staying in Cortina is that we're not taking a car and will be relying on buses, walking, or thumbing a lift. Also having a bar or three within walking distance at the end of the day isn't a bad thing.

In reply to cmars89:

If you stay in cortina then la cooperativa sells everything you will need for your entire trip. Food, guidebooks, climbing equipment (between the strimmers and chainsaws last time I was there). The works.

You need never visit another shop

In reply to cmars89:
Seriously, take a car. It is worth the extra cost. Europ car did us a fiat panda for £130 for two weeks... Buses are fine ther, but not that frequent. Thumbing lifts is OK but not nearly as easy as it used to be, and actually, by the time a group of you has paid for travel, there won't be much in it...

In reply to davidbeynon:

Thought the coop was indeed a one stop shop but for food there are cheaper places if you know where to look.

In reply to cmars89:
stay in covara or cofosco, there youre about 30 mins walk in to lots of climbing and VF all of different grades and styles. there is an awesome sport crag about 10 min drive up the valley from there, if that not youre bag, jump on the 2 hour VF up to a hut, you could stay the night/camp or just get climbing! from there you have a 360 view of amazing alpine rock routes or all grades.
further more i would have an alpine attitude towards the dollies, not quite 2am starts but definatly 6am to beat the punters haha, lets not forget the weather, the storms come in quick and sometimes routes take a long time to get of. and its bloody hot so early mornings make sense.

getting around you can do it by bus, i do but thats because i work in the region, but for 2 weeks ide take a car! because some of the popular/classic crags are hours drive from eachother.

so ide say cofosco/covara to cut your teeth into dollies.

If you want a partner or anything let me know, i work in a place called st martino, about 40 mins from cofosco.

Tom

PS lots of slings and tat will help

In reply to cmars89:

Stayed in Cortina when I went and did two VFs in walking distance (Bovero and Strobel) from the campsite 'Camping Cortina'. There's a bus that runs into the town (if doing this regularly, get a 10x card from the station) but you can walk as well for fun and cheapness. Or walk in, bus back with shopping.

Cooperativa, as mentioned, does have everything you need but if you continue going down the main street you should be able to find a different supermarket that may have some things cheaper (as well as a different selection).

The guides/info places in Cortina were useful for information about routes and such.

One VF I did want to do is up Tofana di Rozes which looks like real epic! Unfortunately it was shut due to snow when we went in July.

We got a bus to do another VF towards Tre Cime which gave us a good view of it.

Didn't do any climbing but psyched to go back out and do some. Plenty of VFs.

Here's some video diaries from the trip (Day 8 onwards is of interest to you): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLVFOrcdrZ8SQRd9eTnH-mrTVM7uoIqZoH

In reply to martin.p65:

Link that works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQCGnFk8A5g&list=PLVFOrcdrZ8SQRd9eTnH-m...

Will have to nav through vids yourself. Enjoy lots of my face =)

In reply to cmars89:

Heading out there myself in August for my 3rd trip. I cant get enough of the place!
I have stayed in both Arabba and Corvara, both are great and offer a central location to plenty of climbing and VF.
Cortina is stunning but a bit more pricey.

Cinque Torri isn't to far and good for some sport climbing and and 3/4 pitch routes.
Plenty of other big multi pitch stuff in the area as well. Get yourself the Rockfax Dolomites guide. Packed with info on locations and routes.

Hope you have a good trip!
Views are phenomenal.

In reply to Ben_Climber:

Cheers for all the advice! Booked it now, staying in Arraba and Corvara.

In reply to Ben_Climber:

give me a shout if you want company

In reply to martin.p65:

link does not work

In reply to cmars89:

If you want classic multi-pitch routes have a look at Vajolet and doing some of the towers that way... plenty at VS/ HVS sort of standard and some amazing positions... the opening sequence from Cliffhanger was filmed there https://youtu.be/cvp5BVn7J9M?t=1m20s

Huts are not too expensive all things considered- 20 Euros per night if you cook your own food approx. 40 Euros if you have 3 course meal and breakfast thrown in. Camping is fine provided you have good weather (there's nothing new there then)

Have a good time
Jez