In reply to Dandan:
The Randalisation plan called this the rest week – and gave me the chance to do some more outdoor climbing. Going to crimpy olde Dinbren was a bad idea as it made my finger hurt again, so I got on some burly jug hauling instead at the weekend and got stupidly pumped; I can firmly conclude that my an-cap is up judging by the amount of lactate I’m producing!! Almost vomit inducing pumps on Saturday!
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
- Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+),
Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
LTG (2015):
>8b+ RP options:
- Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
- need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap
- Get stronger without aggravating injuries
- Get back on the Orme project.
- 8a+/b’s
-
if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, & Waddage
-
if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse, Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Icing and rehab every day for finger and shoulder; both started to feel better so I dropped the frequency – mistake – back around Smith!
- Controlled fingerboarding - tick
- Do some core, antag and bicep curls – 2/3rd tick
- Get back out on the MTB - fail
- Sub 76kg weight for Mandela RP – Tick and tick
Eggs for brekkie the way forward, and several cake and biscuit free days – I never knew I had such self-control!
Last week:
M - Rest day – DOMS – stretched and foam roller.
T - Plan – Tor after work –
Mecca Traverse (8a+) RPs; breakthrough session – ground to crux undercut match and refined beta for this and set-up moves. Very hard for 8a+ - certainly a notch up on Mandela. Finger & shoulder starting to feel better.
W - Fingerboard session (2. 33, 33, 33kg + 2, then + 7kg repeaters – made the hold smaller too – good session). Followed by static core & antags. Slight shoulder discomfort.
T - Plan – Dinbren after work with hms. Investigated Mirf’s new route
Leftism (8b+), and got a good spanking – no real surprise 3rd day on. Finger felt weak on last dogging go. Very late home.
F - Planned rest – just as well as I felt knackered.
S - Devils Gorge – repeated Jamie’s route
Devil's Haircut (7c): probably 7c? Got very pumped. Spotted finger friendly projects to bolt and do.
S - Kilnsey.
The Directissima (6c) warm-up.
Taking the Mick (7a+) OS to get recruited, then straight into a successful RP of
Mandela (8a+). SO chuffed with this. Great fight pulling around the lip, and great scenes at Kilnsey with others making high points and biggest ever links on their projects. Got on
Guns in the Sky (8b+) after and probably did 50% of the moves - feels like a Parisella's link up (with clips) in the sky!
After the transition week, back on the training with a vengeance this week whilst managing the injuries.
75.6kg & 6.7%BF – feeling/looking leaner.
Feeling pretty psyched after the weekend