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UKC Fit Club Week 434

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 Dandan 12 Jul 2015
UKC Fit Club Week 434

There's some really good mileage going on despite the weather, you clearly can't keep a good FitClubber down!

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=619610&v=1

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...

Psyche video this week: Any offers?


Last week's posters:

Joughton - smashing it on the continent! Very jealous.
Exile - Still good effort for only half a week of training!
AJM - Can't think of a better reason to go off-plan than lots of outside climbing, nice.
Dandan82 - Shut up about your flipping elbows, alright?
Tyler - As mentioned, 14kg isolated bicep curl is pretty damn heavy!
mrchewy - Sorry to hear about the hayfever, it must be a complete nightmare.
Nick Russell - Good luck fixing the wrist, hope its a speedy recovery!
mattrm - Definite redpoint train derailment, back on it yet?
Ally Smith - Fantastic volume whilst avoiding tweaky routes/moves, I admire your self control!
hms - has the weather - and the psyche - improved?
cha1n - Powerplant sounds good, I wanted to get on it but was wet all year when I lived in the midlands.
Humperdink - Unusual to hear you struggling with a session, must have been hard!
planetmarshall - I love stats so benchmark fitness/strength tests are right up my street...
flopsicle - Swing construction comes under DIY club, that's perfectly valid training.
Mutl3y - Must try harder! Lacking psyche, life getting in the way or just a lazy week?
biscuit - no climbing, boo!
alexm198 - Unless you are operating at world class levels, i'd say mileage is pretty good training whatever you are doing.
The Ex-Engineer - damn that work thing getting in the way of important stuff...
Just Tintin - Hope the foot is ok, what is Poddle?
Joyce - Pushing the mental limits is always worthwhile, good stuff!
mbh - Sorry, your AWOL was an admin error, i'll speak to the staff.


Quite a few actual AWOLs this week: (this isn't a shaming list by the way, just easier for me to keep track of people!)
Cheese Monkey, themattyshep, 0.5viking, Creedence, Ian Rock.
In reply to Dandan:

Thanks Dan. Poddle is me confessing it was such a pathetic attempt/so unstructured it might not count as a valid training session...!
OP Dandan 12 Jul 2015
In reply to Dandan:

I'm still having elbow woes, i'll explain briefly in a proper post later (everyone has heard enough about my elbows by now I think), but it's understandably having an effect on my psyche and I don't have anything worthwhile to post each week, so I wondered if anyone fancies doing the stats for a few weeks?
Happy to get back on it when i'm fixed but it can be frustrating to have to read in depth about everyone's week of awesome climbing while i'm stuck doing nothing!

If anyone wants to do a week, a month, whatever, let me know
In reply to Dandan:

Quite understandable Dan. I can do next two weeks if that helps? Will struggle to find wifi in August so f someone else could tag in then that would be great.

Tintin
 Nick Russell 12 Jul 2015
In reply to Dandan:
> Nick Russell - Good luck fixing the wrist, hope its a speedy recovery!

Thanks for doing the stats Dan. I hope it does get a move on and fix itself - it's been two weeks now and only faint signs of improvement. I was feeling on great form before, and I just know that even when I get back to it, it will take a few weeks to get any of that back. A bit demoralising really at this time of year.

M - 5km run. Attempt at fingerboard. Not convinced that the wrist was ok with it so stopped. Trampolining
T - 3km run. Core.
W - Nothing (work social all day. This involved a game of rounders which left me feeling battered for a good few days. Yes, rounders. Apparently swinging a bat, throwing balls and rapid acceleration in running are things I'm not well conditioned for.)
T - Trampolining
F - Nothing
S - Parkrun in Leeds (Temple Newsam). Probably my worst parkrun performance ever at 20:49. Tough course but it shouldn't have been harder than Ashton Court where I consistently come in under 20 minutes. Still came in 7th so I can only assume the field wasn't as competitive as I'm used to.
S - Nothing strenuous (a few hours flat walk).

Assorted goals:
  • Wrist rehab
    Not much to report here. Possibly better than last week but not much
  • Trad routes at E4
    There's a long ticklist to put here! Let's start with Star Wars (E4 5c), Fay (E4 5c) and Mother Africa (E4 6a)
    Attempted: 4; Clean onsight: 4 (+1 revisited)

  • Send The Milky Bar Kid (8a) before Ally Smith
    Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
    Slow progress - the linking ground into Bullworker is harder than I expected.

  • Strength gains
    At least 1 fingerboard/bouldering session per week over summer.
    Dedicate some time to this over winter.
    Write a training app for the fingerboard.

  • Sort out the asymmetry (ongoing)
  •  hms 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan. Both weather & psyche improved somewhat.

    M - piddled down all day so went to The Boardroom. Warm-up then onsighted a 7a - only done that once before inside. Was feeling chuffed, so tried a 7b and got within 3 holds of the top. So tried another on the same bit of wall and onsighted it. First ever indoor 7b - haven't even redpointed one before. Did go on to try a 7c but got stuck 2/3rds way up. Really happy.
    T - weather still unreliable. Went for 5 mile country walk.
    W - wet start then dry & sunny. Llanymynech. Tried to onsight a 7b but messed up lower crux then ran out of steam on upper one (the route is 35m long!)
    T - Trevor, easy stuff with family, then evening session with Ally at Dinbren. Got Technicolour Yawn (7a+) 2nd redpoint after working the seq. Should have been first RP but made the error of not practising the easier top moves, not realising there was a long linking move to get into the top crack. Learning point = practice the 'easy' bits too!
    F - Back to Llanymynech. Worked bottom & top cruxes on 7b, then had a long rest waiting for it to go properly into shade, then blasted to the top clean.
    S - travel home
    S - S&C x 3

    This week I'll be taking things a bit easier - not exactly a rest week but just feeling really tired. Shoulder didn't like the Boardroom session but was perfectly fine the rest of the time.
     AJM 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan.

    Got out a bit again this week although not as much as I had hoped. Failed to do fingerboard aerocap as instructed too - for some reason I just really struggle with this session, just doesn't seem to work for me. But I did get some more routes done and maybe met more useful contacts too. Need to cycle a bit more though...

    In London Monday and Tuesday so nothing.

    Wednesday I went to winspit after work, did some warmups and onsighted a 6c and tried a 7a+. Bouldery crux low down felt desperate which gave me a fine excuse to strap some rubber to my knee to work some magic on it. Got it first time I got through the crux, sort of ground up.

    Thursday went to the wall, did some problems but it was hot and horrible. Tried to fingerboard when I got home and that was grim and felt tweaky too. Not a big success.

    Friday after some faff we eventually got to lulworth, fell off Horny Little Devil again.

    Saturday I did a short wall session where I did some ancap and some rings. Then went to a bbq and ate and drank too much.

    Today we are still on the way home in the traffic so will be too late for the wall - might try to fingerboard later.

    3x cycle commutes.
     Humperdink 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks Dan, sorry to hear the elbows are still bad. Take your time even if its a long haul do all the rehab properly and totally fix the problem before getting back into it (It took me 18 months to get over one injury because for the first 12 months I kept coming back too soon).

    Still tired this week from the session last Sat:

    M: am - run to work 4/5M in 29:47, pm - run hom 6/7M in 45:12 still v tired
    Tu: am - jog to work 18mis, pm - Grass session: 6x3min (off 60sec recovery) then 5min jog, 4 x 30sec flat out (3min recovery). Still really tired from session last Sat, just wasn't at the races so went through the motions a bit but still worked quite hard - just didn't push it. 8M total
    W: pm - 5/6M easy in 42:02 still tired
    Th: am - 20mins jog to work still tried!
    F: am - jog to work 16mins + strides, finally feeling a bit better
    Sa: am - Didn't get selected to run for the club so did a track session instead. It was early, hot and windy and still could feel I wasn't 100%. Session was 3x500, 4x400, 3x500 with 1min between reps and 3min between the sets. Times were: 1:25,1:25,1:26, 67.2,67.6,68.0,68.1, 47.2,47.4,47.5,48.0,47.6 so ok but 500's and 400's were about the same pace which wasn't ideal. Worked hard but didn't got all out in order to try and keep recovering. pm - 4/5M in 29:09 felt ok rather than knackered on this so hopefully starting to recover.
    Su: 12/13M easy, ~90mins

    Total ~55M, felt really tired which finally started to get over by the end of the week. Really busy at work currently so maybe this is having an effect on recovery?
     mattrm 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Dan, hope the elbows are better soon.

    STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) 11st 12lbs (tick!)
    Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st

    Weight - 11st 13lbs (2lbs loss)

    M - Indoor routes
    T - Core
    W - Core
    T - Sport at Navigation
    F - Core
    S - Routes at Wyndcliff
    S - Rest

    Monthly - 83%
    Yearly - 70%

    Good week all in. Bit of weight loss. Small improvements on the redpoint siege. Started using a smear foothold on the crux which made it easier. Made the move to the mid-crux holds. Bagged a VS on Saturday. The VS was done in sketchy style. I really gibbered my way up it. The climbing wasn't hard, I just got scared. Daft really. There we go. Still getting VSes done now, so just got to keep slogging at them and it'll get easier eventually.
     Mutl3y 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Hi dandan sorry to hear you are getting bummed out by elbows. Read that Steve McClure's bio - he had a torrid time with his elbows. Make sure you're getting the best advice.

    If this thing is bumming you out tho dude you shouldn't do it out of sufferance. It might actually be doing you some good tho? Keeping a focus rather than giving it up altogether?

    Spirits are high this week. Have turned a corner with the mojo that hopefully will last a good while fingers crossed.

    Have decided to major in the diet end of the training and to be consistent and efficient with the physical side. diet has to be my focus - I climb loads better when I feel light. This is how the week went:

    M- Poor diet, poor mojo day. Was convinced to go to the works by the wife. Met a friend there, mentioned low mojo. We decided we would give it full gas on the training and sort our lives out (this was when I got back on it). Did 17 yellows (4th/10 hardest set) and gave up on 2 of them. Did some proper pull ups and a 135 on the campus board big rungs
    T- Nowt. An actual rest day, not a couldn't be arsed day. Also didn't go for a bike ride instead of climbing cos that'd only get the appetite going. Perfect food day.
    W- Perfect food. 3 sets of pull ups with 2 second lock offs. Beastmaker 5B 6/4 routine. 60/84. By far my worst result (high tide was March with 81/84 I can hardly believe now). Had felt strong at first but it just wasn't there. Possibly a mistake to have done BM straight after pull ups. Didn't let it get me down.
    T- Perfect food. Rest.
    F- Works session. Did the other 19 yellows then came back to the 2 I couldn't do on Monday and did them. Then I rested a few minutes and did 12, then 9, then 5 good form pull ups with maybe 5 min rests in between.
    S- Took the 21m old baby to the mini works (I was supervising not climbing). She was awesome. Doing lap after lap. No pushes from me or putting her feet on the holds - she just did it. In the afternoon the wife suggested we go to trackside for half an hour or so to enjoy the evening with the baby. Best. Idea. Ever. Strawberries didn't go first time like it normally does, but the f6B to the right went once someone told me to use a heel hook. That felt good. Then, just for a laugh I had "a go" on Trackside, f7A, and did it in a oner. I did it years back but was still incredibly surprised to get it done so quickly. I only have two f7As to my name so this felt great. Need to add a few more now quickly! Perfectish food (a thin slice of home made cake the only slight deviation).
    S- Sort of a rest day but with another quick jaunt out to Curbar with the baby to a bit I'd not been to before. Ticked 8 easy problems, f5 and below, before calling it a day. Perfectish food (a small ice cream excepting).

    Weight - MA 66.0kgs down 0.7kgs on the week.

    Questions - would I be better off doing my pull up training on the Tuesday and Thursday rather than dedicating them as rest days? I like the idea of rest days but pull ups don't take long by themselves. I really enjoyed the last week but wonder if it needs a tweak. Any thoughts?

    Also any thoughts should I stick in a different type of training routine somewhere - like all sorts of things mentioned in this link. I like the idea of it but not sure where it could be fit in...

    http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/one-workout-every-climber-should-d...

    Cheers!
     flopsicle 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks for the thread Dandan. I don't know if this is a tacless sh1te suggestion, 'pologies if it is, but have you ever tried hands free climbing? I used to do it on the kids roped slab at notts, then saw Mr. Dawes on real rock so set about trying to knock palming on the head. I do anything on the teeny slab at the Depot and even get routes now with no plaming ('ickle routes...). It's a different party trick from the lads campusing (sp?) but it has the advantage of novelty....

    Here goes my week. The suspension trainer arrived on Tues, it's a 'Woss', awesome quality and a teeny fraction of the price of TRX.

    Mon - naffy 2 mile run.

    Tues - 3.5 mile run, got PB for 5k and 2 mile. 8 Mile bike ride. Set my Woss straps up and did 30 mins of these: http://aussiesupershop.com.au/woss-trainer-exercise-sheet-1.jpg http://aussiesupershop.com.au/woss-trainer-exercise-sheet-2.jpg Damn near killed me!

    Weds - 2 hrs lead climbing (indoors). Had a major faff on the route I did last week, I got lost, forgot how to do it and had to dangle and rest when I was already in a flap. To my shame I'm scared to death of dangling - I'm working on it but my yellow streak is stubborn! As soon as there's no wall my head tells me i'm about to invert backwards, it's the weirdest feeling, I don't actually think I will but seem to have a physiological bit of my brain rebelling! I made myself complete the climb and I will go back to it but I was so disappointed in myself for STILL being such a wuss! Confession over.

    Thurs - 2 mile run. 30 mins on suspension trainer.

    Fri - 1.5 hrs bouldering. 2 mile run, Got this (bloody marvelous for me!):
    Best estimated 1 mile effort (7:23)
    Best estimated 1k effort (3:54)
    Best estimated 1/2 mile effort (3:07)
    Best estimated 400m effort (1:27)

    Sat - 30 mins suspension training, 1hr bouldering (comp problems).

    Sun, 1 mile run - went to beat my best mile and chucked it when I knew I hadn't. 2.75 hrs Bouldering at the Depot, time's a bir deceptive as it was roasting so lots of rest between stuff. Just played as I wasn't in the mood for the comp problems. Made a new prob with the hands free stuff and worked reasonabley hard on the overhangs.
     Exile 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks for doing fit club again Dan.

    2015 aims:

    Winter VI 7 - Tick.

    Spring / early Summer 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar - Tick.

    Summer quick build through E1 / E2 / E3s on slate before trying to OS Malice in Wonderland, (E3 / E4)

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: 1hr road ride. (Maintain winter endurance.)
    T: Rest
    W: 2.5hrs working Middle Earth (7b*) at Bram Crag Quarry. TR'ed twice, then two RP attempts - did it in two both times having fallen from crux move - just a matter of time!
    T: Rest
    F: 1hr 10min road ride. (Maintain winter endurance.)
    S: Rest
    S: Specifically didn't go to the wall Friday morning so I'd be on top form for a RP attempt on Middle Earth this morning, but rain stopped play! 1hr 30min bouldering at wall. (Power.)

    Ok week.
     Tyler 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Mutl3y:

    > Questions - would I be better off doing my pull up training on the Tuesday and Thursday rather than dedicating them as rest days? I like the idea of rest days but pull ups don't take long by themselves. I really enjoyed the last week but wonder if it needs a tweak. Any thoughts?

    Generally rest days are considered good/essential but as with all things it depends on what you are training. I have a friend who's main focus is two one week sport trips a year and in the two months before going away he will go 100 pull ups (in sets) on his non-climbing days as he wants to climb all 8 days of the trip, it works for him as he doesnt take rest days and still crushes at the end of his trip

     Ally Smith 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    > Failed to do fingerboard aerocap as instructed too - for some reason I just really struggle with this session, just doesn't seem to work for me.

    Yep - find this one hard too, especially at 70% load; a real beasting! i feel like I want to engage my arms to avoid overloading elbows, but biceps just end up trashed instead!
    In reply to Dandan: A better week.

    M - work
    T - nowt
    W - work @ Wintour's Leap [4x f6a/+ sports routes & King Kong (E1 5b) ] followed by short boulder @ Bloc in Bristol
    T - boulder @ Brookes
    F - boulder @ Brookes, drive to the Peak then quick few routes @ Stanage:
    Robin Hood's Right-hand Buttress Direct (HS 4a)
    Inverted V (VS 4b)
    Flying Buttress Direct (E1 5b)
    S - routes @ Millstone climbing in a group of three:
    2nd Hells Bells (HS 4b)
    The Whore (HVS 5b)
    2nd Gimcrack (VS 4c)
    2nd Piccadilly Circus (E2 5c)
    Lyons Corner House (HVS 5a)
    solo Lyons Corner House Direct (HVS 5a)
    2nd Gates of Mordor (E3 5c)
    Twikker (E3 5c)
    S - routes @ Higgar, again climbing in a three:
    The Rasp (E2 5b)
    2nd The File (VS 4c)
    2nd, 2 falls Bat Out of Hell (E5 6a)
    then routes @ Burbage South
    2nd Millwheel Wall (E1 5b)
    2nd Fox House Flake (VS 4b)

    Very happy, my first grit E3 lead (Twikker) in over a decade plus a clean lead of The Rasp
     mrchewy 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:
    Being injury prone, I know how hard it is to be positive when others seem to always be able to climb and train with no woes. Worst thing is, I have no advice on how to deal with it. I try all the usual things, like 'a day at a time' or keeping busy at other training but it still sucks and you have to suck it up. It will come good tho... always does. Remember that.
    Took a load of advice onboard regarding the hayfever last week and the head feels clearer from changing the drugs, even if the symptoms are worse. I really think the heat played havoc too.

    STG - Salbit Sudgrat. Also a big mountaineering weekend on Aug bank hols. Start at Amphitheatre Buttress, some routes on Tryfan, Tennis Shoe and Cneiffen Arete before (the next day) starting in the Pass and finishing at the top of Snowdon via the face of Lliwedd. Mostly soloing but carrying a rope for certain pitches and certain climbs.
    MTG - Tick some stuff in Spain
    LTG - Salbit West Ridge and something (anything) on Kleinwinterhoek in SA.

    Mon - Worked late.
    Tue - Run. Warmup, then 2 miles. Felt like running for the first time, had no watch but felt good.
    Wed - Pinnacle. Circuit board working moves. Some hangs. Foot on campusing a no go with the tendonitis.
    Thu - Rest
    Fri - Pinnacle. Boulder warmup. Circuit board working moves. Mono pullup. Tried to 1-5 with a foot on, on the smallest Metolious rung. Just cant hold it as it's a bit of a stretch from the available foot hold. Annoying.
    Sat & Sun my parents have visited, so been catching up with family and overeating.

    Should have got a run in this weekend but otherwise two good sessions.

    Stopped going to Pinnacle a while back as the boulder room is too small and felt I could progress better travelling to MK and Loughborough, so it was nice to do a couple of sessions there this week and see where I am. Back down to one pullup, as I've not been doing any at all but can manage that on the small campus rail or in the top mono slots on the BM, despite being about 7kg heavier than this time last year. I'm certainly stronger than I was when I cancelled my subscription back in the middle of May. Usual issue of not getting on with the current in vogue morpho setting due to the wrist not bending but I knew that anyway. A good week.

    No progress with converting the van, as work has been rather full on. Got a decent plan outlined of roughly where I'll be roughly when, so if anyone needs a belay, certainly in Feb and March - give me a shout. I'll more than likely be at the Orange House.
    Post edited at 21:57
     AJM 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    I find it really hard to keep my shoulders engaged the entire time. Also, its incredibly tough on my skin - what with one thing and another, and spending time in the sea at lulworth and things, my skin has been a bit trashed this week and this session just makes it incredibly sore. Its almost bad enough that I am going to suck it up and do the proscribed sessions as well as the outdoor stuff!
     AJM 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to mrchewy:

    Am out in Chulilla end Nov, then might be persuadable on a long weekend or something somewhere in early 2016 (or maybe tagging along with Mr Smith's Oliana rematch?). No firm plans yet, of course.
     mrchewy 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    I'll post a rough guide before I go on Facebook or email or on here - I'll mostly be on my own Feb and March, hopefully fitter and stronger, so if you find a project at Chuililla
     Mutl3y 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Tyler:

    Thanks Tyler that is quite helpful. I am not training for any type of endurance so suppose I should make my rests count (specially as I didn't properly rest at the weekend cos too busy having fun!).
     cha1n 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan, I'm surprised you've kept going this long whilst not climbing. Why don't we drop the stats for a bit (always?). They don't bother on UKB and whilst it's good and it can be a conversation starter, it must be a right pain to do!

    Anyway,

    M - Easy core + push-ups

    T - Hard core + 3x8mins aerocap + Push-ups

    W - Rest

    T - Powerplant at Cheedale after work. Not great conditions but cracked on anyway. Did the crux a few times in isolation and had a play on the other sections but didn't get them very well. Certainly not to redpoint standard.

    F - Rest

    S - Powerplant at Cheedale. 4th session now, fast becoming my most sieged route (5 sessions for one of my 7c+'s is my most so far). Best conditions since I've started working it, nice breeze blowing through, had to put jacket on whilst belaying. Linked it from above the crux bulge (hand on good flake by bolt) to the top a few times. Feel like I've got a good sequence for the very top now and did the crux off of the rope a handful of times. Also have the bottom pretty wired but not the match on the big undercut pre-crux, haven't properly looked at that move as I'm usually boxed by there and have to rest on the rope before trying the crux.

    S - Boulder Mileage, 20 boulders V3-V5 (Wasps at the works) x 2 (30 mins rest between the set). 30-60s rest between boulders all but one were first try. I'd done them all before but many felt like flashes. Attempted to do core at the end but didn't get very far, feeling tired! 4 sets of 10 Push-ups.

    Have had a word with coach Randall regarding the project as I'm struggling with fitness and feel like all the base work I'm doing won't help in the short-term (he's clearly thinking long-term and rightly so). Said I'm prepared to mess things up slightly in the short-term to try and gain some fitness for the route. He's done some tweaking to the plan and things he might be able to squeeze something out of one of the energy systems to help me get through it. I also need to get super efficient on the route and climb the bottom much faster.

    Really looking forward to next session as I think it'll be absolute final micro tweaks (think I might end my crux sequence a different way to make it higher percentage and maybe my initial post-crux sequence too) and maybe even squueze in a proper redpoint go.

    Only a month until my Birthday so it's getting tight now!
     cha1n 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    > Yep - find this one hard too, especially at 70% load; a real beasting! i feel like I want to engage my arms to avoid overloading elbows, but biceps just end up trashed instead!

    I only just make it through at 40%! Was getting terrible elbow problems with this so have cut the fingerboard aerocap right down. Think Tom's intention is to safely train to protect existing finger injuries (my assumption).
     Tyler 12 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:
    > Tyler - As mentioned, 14kg isolated bicep curl is pretty damn heavy

    I must be getting pounds and Kgs mixed up as I am notoriously weak!

    M: Knackered after Sunday so semi rest as I set an undercuts circuit at the Outhouse, actually did quite a lot as it was tweaked to perfection!
    T: Planned rest. 2x 7min S&C
    W: Afternoon off so back to the Thumb, obviously too hard for me but still making progress. Frustrating as its a traverse so you have to climb a lot to get to the hard bits and then you only get one go at each crux as if you come off there's little chance to get back on. Still unsure whether to fold or stay in the game, hopefully have two more months before it gets wet so if I can train properly that might be enough.
    T: Outhouse to try the new circuit, couldn't do all the moves! Possibly knackered,ore tinkering required to make it easier. 2x7min S&C.
    F: Planned rest. Managed 1x 7min S&C, literally couldn't do second.
    S: Disaster, supposed to go to Kilnsey but the evenings BBQ was actually at 2:30pm. Emergency bike ride to Peel Tower (including the famous Ramsbottom Rake, I had to push some of this 😡, how do people manage on road bike gears?) as I also discovered id put on some weight
    S: The wife's climbing day and she couldn't be persuaded to go to Kilnsey. Some low sixes then my attempt to on-sight Silent Laughter ended ignominiously at the first move, as did my subsequent RP go! Almost got it next go but got established on the second crux but just couldn't move as my feet were too low. 3x 1 min planks in case I ever find a decent knee bar on the Thumb!

    Weight below 10' 10" most days, need to keep an eye on left elbow and techy climbing today has left my ankle sore. Back to K next weekend but busy week of work before then, might make Notts Depot tomorrow evening though
    Post edited at 23:06
     AJM 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to cha1n:

    I've always felt that we seem to get more discussion and feedback on here, and I think part of that is having the stats - on a lot of weeks power club can just be a load of people just listing what they've done, which for me at least is less useful.
     mrchewy 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to AJM:

    Yeah - I actually enjoy the stats and it's been pretty fulfilling when I've taken them myself. There's been times when the only thing that's forced me out of the door was the thought that Daniel (boss when I started on here) might be posting up how lazy I'd been... gotta love peer pressure.
    OP Dandan 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Just Tintin, mutl3y, flopsicle, chain and all well-wishers:

    Thanks for all the elbow encouragement, it's really appreciated.

    Just Tintin - if you could do the next two weeks that would be great, even if nobody can do the following weeks it gives me a little break, cheers!

    Mutl3y - I don't need any extra motivation, it's the opposite problem, i'm dying to get back on the wall but I need to rest! Reading all the posts in detail to do the stats just makes my fingertips sweat!

    Flopsicle - I don't live or work close enough to a wall to make hands off climbing worthwhile, plus I can see where that kind of session is going to end up, with me thinking 'oh i'll just pull on these jugs, that'll be fine, oh that felt ok, i'll try this steep route, that felt good, hey i'll have a go at this crimpy proble- oh my elbows have fallen off' I can't trust myself near holds of any sort.

    cha1n - i'm just a caretaker of the FitClub, I wouldn't dare to presume I could change the format! I think the stats are a big part of the motivation for a lot of people.
     Ally Smith 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    The Randalisation plan called this the rest week – and gave me the chance to do some more outdoor climbing. Going to crimpy olde Dinbren was a bad idea as it made my finger hurt again, so I got on some burly jug hauling instead at the weekend and got stupidly pumped; I can firmly conclude that my an-cap is up judging by the amount of lactate I’m producing!! Almost vomit inducing pumps on Saturday!

    BHAG (2016 and beyond):
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
    - Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
    - True North, Kilnsey & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor – crimpy & front on board style too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goals.
    - Spanish super routes – Feb 2016 – La Perla, (8b+), La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
    - Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
    - Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight

    LTG (2015):
    >8b+ RP options:
    - Cry Freedom & Unjustified, Malham.
    - Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
    - Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG.
    - need to train climbing board style/open on slopey crimps – eek – bit of a weakness; at least I know about it in advance now!
    >8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)

    MTG (May/June/July):
    - Increase An-cap
    - Get stronger without aggravating injuries
    - Get back on the Orme project.
    - 8a+/b’s
    - if finger plays ball: Well Done finish, Straight jacket, & Waddage
    - if shoulder plays ball, but finger still tweaky: Mecca Traverse, Mandela (TICK) & Guns in the sky
    - 74 kg & 6.5% BF

    STG (next week)
    - Icing and rehab every day for finger and shoulder; both started to feel better so I dropped the frequency – mistake – back around Smith!
    - Controlled fingerboarding - tick
    - Do some core, antag and bicep curls – 2/3rd tick
    - Get back out on the MTB - fail
    - Sub 76kg weight for Mandela RP – Tick and tick Eggs for brekkie the way forward, and several cake and biscuit free days – I never knew I had such self-control!

    Last week:
    M - Rest day – DOMS – stretched and foam roller.
    T - Plan – Tor after work – Mecca Traverse (8a+) RPs; breakthrough session – ground to crux undercut match and refined beta for this and set-up moves. Very hard for 8a+ - certainly a notch up on Mandela. Finger & shoulder starting to feel better.
    W - Fingerboard session (2. 33, 33, 33kg + 2, then + 7kg repeaters – made the hold smaller too – good session). Followed by static core & antags. Slight shoulder discomfort.
    T - Plan – Dinbren after work with hms. Investigated Mirf’s new route Leftism (8b+), and got a good spanking – no real surprise 3rd day on. Finger felt weak on last dogging go. Very late home.
    F - Planned rest – just as well as I felt knackered.
    S - Devils Gorge – repeated Jamie’s route Devil's Haircut (7c): probably 7c? Got very pumped. Spotted finger friendly projects to bolt and do.
    S - Kilnsey. The Directissima (6c) warm-up. Taking the Mick (7a+) OS to get recruited, then straight into a successful RP of Mandela (8a+). SO chuffed with this. Great fight pulling around the lip, and great scenes at Kilnsey with others making high points and biggest ever links on their projects. Got on Guns in the Sky (8b+) after and probably did 50% of the moves - feels like a Parisella's link up (with clips) in the sky!

    After the transition week, back on the training with a vengeance this week whilst managing the injuries.
    75.6kg & 6.7%BF – feeling/looking leaner.
    Feeling pretty psyched after the weekend
     biscuit 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan. No real words of wisdom over longer term injuries. It's shit, but if you follow what you're supposed to do you can put the issues to bed forever and look forward to getting back to it.

    So last week i was working and doing work experience placement on top of it BUT i managed the worlds shortest climbing session, some good stretching/physio exercises i picked up from work experience and a s&c/fingerboard session.

    Climbing was hilariously short. Half an hr. Shoved my shoes on and did 6a, 6b, 6c on sights and then failed on a 6c onsight. Either the other 6c is about 6b or the latter 6c is 7a. Great route though and i'll get it next time. I cried take near the top as i could see a horrible sloper above me i knew i'd be too pumped to hold. Turns out it's got a really friendly top to it and is a rest hold before the hard last move. Lesson learnt. Always go for one last move, you never know.

    After suffering from piriformis/sciatic problems for well over a decade ( managed with stretching etc. ) one set of a new stretch and manipulation has stopped it dead. Amazing not to have a constant nagging pain in my hip for the first time in years.

    Did a couple of sets of dumbell exercises and spinal mobility/squat stuff. Felt good. Very short finger board session after.

    This week is looking crap again. Been some family stress stuff going on of late but come August/September i'm going to have much more free time and be part time at work ( though i will have study to do ) so i'm just focussing on that light at the end of the tunnel.
    OP Dandan 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Thanks to me for doing the stats, another disappointing week for my elbows, I hope Quiddity is reading this, i'm not too proud to admit when someone is right!

    M: Exercise ball core, really good and really enjoyable. Did some pressups and tried some superman press ups too, ridiculously hard!
    T: Did my full pre-session warm up and then deadhanging on jugs for a few minutes before trying some pull ups, did 10, 8, 8, again a little bit of tweaking at the elbows so stopped.
    W: Elbows not feeling brilliant, I think it's still too early for chin ups, i'm not going to deny it!
    T:
    F:
    S: Put up a super juggy traverse route around the boulder shed so I might be able to at least do some movement practice, had a few laps, felt fine. Also did some mega light DIY, wiring and fitting a door lock, elbows still sore at end of day so now it's hard to say which of the two activities caused it.
    S:

    Real low point on Saturday night, the left arm now feels almost as bad as the right whereas it was always much, much better before. I can't conclusively say it was the DIY or the traversing, but I do know that the DIY felt a lot more tweaky than the traversing, either way, both activities are off the table for now.
    Maybe I underestimated the damage, kept doing what I thought were low-intensity activities or easy DIY but even those easy activities were causing trouble. I need further full rest before I try anything, no stretching, no testing gripping stuff, just forget about the elbows for a week or two and become a couch potato, they aren't even ready for light rehab, they need rest.
    Like Humperdink said, if I keep going back to exercise too quickly, I will just prolong the damage. I think it is most annoying because at this rate, I will not be fit for Kaly in September so it will hardly be worth going, all the coaching advice in the world isn't going to help me if my elbows aren't working!

    They actually feel pretty good this morning, it's like the tweaks shift around, they are sore in some respects but better in others, let's hope thats a sign of healing, either way, it's a week of computer games and core for me!
     planetmarshall 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Cheers Dan. Something of a mixed week - don't really feel like I'm getting enough training volume in at the moment, but have had some good days climbing.

    Mon - Hathersage Fell Race. Only a 6% improvement on last year despite the fact I'd felt a lot stronger. It is the middle of a training plan, though, so can't really expect to perform at my best.
    Tue - Max Strength - Front Squats, up to 75kg
    Wed - Rest
    Thu - Climbing at Ravensdale. STG - 1 hard HVS (Conclusor (HVS 5a)).
    Fri - Rest
    Sat - Max Strength. 4x2 pullups (+10kg)
    Sun - Climbing at AW Sheffield. STG - 6a+ onsight. Tried a steep 6b on the competition wall for a laugh, felt easy compared to the more technical routes, so need to concentrate on the latter. Train your weaknesses and all that.

    STG
    * Trad pyramid - Complete 1 more hard HVS and an easy E1
    * Indoor pyramid - Complete 2 6bs and a 6b+. Technical routes preferred.
    * Still need to get the mileage sorted
    * Do a fitness test
     flopsicle 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    It comes down to that age old adage... "Whatsoever you do, make not your elbows drop off."
     hms 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    as it happens, it wasn't climbing which goosed Steve McClure's elbows initially, it was DIY. Specifically, spending a day screwing heavy hardboard sheets onto his cellar roof to create a training facility. DIY - it's dangerous!!
     mrchewy 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:
    Cordless screwdrivers, impact drivers etc can be vicious on the elbows - lots of people in the building trade suffer.
    I know you really wanna climb but could you take some psyche from the runners and cyclists on here for a while? Really beast the aerobic side of things? Go do the Welsh3000s or cycle 50 miles or hill sprints twice a week? Get the lungs and legs in tip top shape whilst it won't detract from climbing.
    Post edited at 11:57
     Ally Smith 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to hms:

    'leccy screwdriver/battery drill all the way for DIY - manual screwing (oo-er!) takes it out of you
    OP Dandan 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    I'm all about the electric drill driver, but I think even holding against the turning force is an elbow killer, I need ot step away from the tools!

    MrChewy, you obviously don't understand my deep-seated aversion to cardio exercise! Things will have to get really desperate to make me put my running shoes on, but it's certainly an option...
     biscuit 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Mine only really settled and got better when i stopped EVERYTHING that irritated it: Belayed with the other hand, stayed away from DIY ( not hard ), drove in a different position etc. That's all it took really to see quick improvements.
    OP Dandan 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to biscuit:

    Maybe my elbows aren't as bad as all that yet then, I can at least drive without any trouble. I'm now on a complete avoidance of any physical action that requires me to grip or twist, things should calm down soon, fingers crossed! (I toyed with banning finger crossing too but I think I need all the help i can get)
     Joyce 13 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Morning Campers,

    Thanks for statting us up Dan, much appreciated. Got to have some fun this week!

    Training Diary WC 06/7/15
    Back in the Game/Get Weak for Summer

    Monday – Work.
    Tuesday – Rest/Good Lady Wife’s official birthday.
    Wednesday – Work/dreaming about a successful ascent of this E4 tomorrow.
    Thursday – Alright team, here we go, let’s try and lead this E4 - Piggy Malone. Back to the Yat with Tom and Tall Ben. A quick ab down the route to clean the holds over the lip, a solid go on the top rope to rehearse the moves and gear placements (lesson learned; I just threw the first bit of gear at the rock in rush (anticipating doing so on lead to avoid the dreaded pump, but the gear placement wasn’t ace, I quickly realised that it was worth taking time to make sure that I could place each piece quickly, accurately and ‘bomberly’ as otherwise there wasn’t much point. I reset the nut and then placed all the others perfectly – up goes the confidence!
    Tom then led it brilliantly, looking calm, collected and smooth – high fives all round – wow! So, my turn; actually it went really well. I got into a zone and just executed. Almost slipped out of the zone just below the crux but got back in there and nailed it! What a feeling; simply exalted at the end. I absolutely loved every second of it and can’t wait to do some more of this stuff! I’ve only really got into the ‘zone’ once or twice before and I want more so I’ve got to work out how I did it so that I can repeat it – any tips, let me know!

    Friday – Looooonnnnng work day – visit to London.

    Saturday – Park Run: wasn’t expecting much after the heat/dehydration and weariness from yesterday. Managed a 5th place in 19:10, so could be worse. Definitely noticed a lack of speed, having not run for 2 whole weeks. Gonna restart my Strava training plan next week to shock the body with something different and take a chunk of time off of my PB. A couple of hours of moving gravel around in the back garden in the evening too.
    Sunday – Biathlon day! Two hours of gravel/soil moving in the rain followed by a great session at a very hot and humid Bloc with Tom. Fell off lots of yellows (F6B+ to F7A+ ish) but, by ‘eck, it was good fun. Surprised myself with some of the moves I could do, having not climbed much for a few weeks and definitely not got on the steep stuff for ages, but couldn’t quite put it all together. Spent after two hours. Then back on the soil shifting, including digging out a plum tree that was in the way of me Super Shed (home climbing wall/workshop) that’s going in this summer.

    Weight = 71.3kg.

    Love from,
    Joyce,
    XXXX



     alexm198 14 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    Hey Dan, thanks for continuing to do FitClub and sorry to hear the elbows are still giving you jip, sounds like torture at the moment... I'm sure with some solid rest you'll be fit for your Kalymnos trip, still plenty of time.

    Pretty decent week for me, more mileage as the heatwave continues to lay waste to everything except long alpine rock routes...

    M: Voie Normale on the Aiguille de la Republique. Horrible night's attempted sleep - sacked off the bivi bags as the forecast was so good but then got rained on. Typical. Up at 4, climbing by 6 after negotiating absolute man-eater bergschrund, moved together until the headwall, then 5 pitches up the headwall to top out at 11. Super cool summit, actually overhangs on the Charmoz side so you're straddling this foot-wide summit wedge staring down into a 700m void... biggest bummer was accidentally taking the summit shot with my wide-angle lens zoomed in, getting rid of any sense of exposure. Descent was a ballache. Back on the glacier at about 4 after a slight mishap involving me abbing into the schrund and having to pendulum my way back out. Was then so tired I tried to cook pasta without any water. This was the final straw for my mate and we decided to walk back down the Montenvers track for some stupid, stupid reason. F*cking wasted getting back to Chamonix at about 10pm.
    T: Much needed rest day.
    W: Cragging day on the Brevent Crags, (1x5a, 1x5c, 1x6a, 3x6b, 1x6b+). Nice to feel worked rather than just mountain exhaustion.
    T: Rest day, not really sure why though.
    F: Contamine-Vaucher, SW Face of Aiguille du Peigne. Proper brutal old-school André Contamine sufferfest. Udgey chimneys and steep flake-hauling to the top. Managed to do it bin-to-bin (just) which was quite pleasing given that it's notorious for people missing the last lift.
    S: Rest morning, headed up the Midi on the last bin, bivvied in the Perroux hut.
    S: Gervasutti Pillar, Mont Blanc du Tacul. Got a full-on spanking, but we managed it. Ended up moving pretty slowly as the climbing is never particularly easy. Sustained VS-HVS for the bottom half, the kicker is when it finally gets easier it gets loose as f*ck so you end up moving just as slowly to avoid trundling half the mountain. Route finding immensely confusing at the top of the pillar, lost a good hour trying to work out where the hell we were supposed to go. Ended up topping out of the route just before 10pm (though based on all accounts I've seen, topping out at sunset is pretty much inevitable!), slogged back down to the Perroux in the dark, utterly utterly destroyed. Pleased to have got the tick, though.

    Last weeks' goals: another 5 good value ticks before I head home for a couple of weeks on the 18th. En route to a tick...3 so far, would be nice to get another two in the next couple of days.

    STG (this week): 2 final routes before heading home for a wee bit.
    MTG (by end of July): 10 alpine ticks inc 1xTD booooooooooom, stoked to have got the Gervasutti (I think this one is traditional enough to count as the TD, Andrew?) even if it did whoop my ass a bit. Back up to 40km/week haha no. plenty of leg mileage happening but do need to get back into this. Sub 70kg will report back when I'm somewhere near some scales!
    LTG (end of 2015): 50 alpine ticks, inc 3xED1. Le Ginat, N. Face Les Droites. Other stuff that I think I've included on previous posts.


    In reply to Dandan:
    M - BMC Physical Training for Climbing with Tom Randall. Some bouldering problems, circuits and campus board. Got home then 100x20kg bench press as feeling guilty about antagonists.
    T - rest
    W - morning endurance session bouldering on new set at Brookes
    T - rest
    F - SBL at Climbing Unit. Second in senior female, probably because Tara Hayes and the Tilley sisters were resting pre-BBC so not there¡K!
    S - Trad Beeston Tor. When we eventually found the walk-in it was incredible. Solid rock, gymnastic moves, great positions. The Thorn (HVS) is one of the best limestone routes I¡¦ve ever done.
    S - Boulder climbing Unit. Working weaknesses session so slipped around on hot greasy slopers.
    Post edited at 16:34
     Luke Owens 17 Jul 2015
    In reply to Dandan:

    M: Kilnsey - Did New Mystique (6b+) twice. Had a go on Directissima fell off half way up, felt hard. Tried to redpoint Quiet Flight (7a+) dogging up it felt easy, had 3 goes but couldn't get through the start.

    T: 25 minutes Aerocap - Stretching

    W: 25 minutes Aerocap - Stretching

    T: Had planned to do mileage at Llanymynech but partner had to leave early so went to Dinbren. 6b x 3, 7a x 2, 6b x 2

    F: 25 minutes Aerocap - Stretching

    S: Orme - 6a+ and 6b+ sandbag warm up then went to Castell Y Gwynt - Great conditions but I didn't feel too great myself. Got on Cruella Deville (7b) had 2 working goes and did all the moves. Inspired watching Adam Wainwright on some E5.

    S: Rest

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