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Climbing with arthritis

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 RGriff 14 Jul 2015
Any other climbers with bad joints out there? There must be some. I recently developed arthritis in my wrist and knee, which makes climbing quite painful but I can't give it up. If anyone has any exercises or advice it'd be welcome. There's a lot to sift through on google...
 Mountain Llama 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Hi do you know if you have Rheumatoid arthritis or Osteoarthritis?
 Trangia 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

I have osteoarthritis in my foot which can make climbing and walking very painful. GP told me there wasn't much he could do and suggested that I find another sport!!

I wasn't prepared to accept this advice and went to a sports osteopath.

She is brilliant and after a series of weekly sessions of massage and following a strict exercise regime (approx 45 mins twice a day) it is almost back to normal. I can now climb and walk pain free.
 Andy Morley 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

I've started to get pain in a finger joint over the past week or two. Hopefully it will go away by itself, but I think it's prudent to be aware of symptoms of arthritis just in case, and also what can be done to help reduce the risk of it developing. I read that fish-oil and aspirin together can help prevent arthritis - does anyone here have any views on that?
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-2282980/The-cure-arthritis-Fish-o...
 Bob Kemp 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

I've had various forms of osteo-arthritis, in hip, knee and hands. I was encouraged by a physio fairly early on to climb as much as possible to maintain hip flexibility and I found this actively helped for a long time until it started to seize up and I had a replacement. I went for physiotherapy when things started getting worse, and found that strengthening exercises in conjunction with 'dry needling' to unlock spasming muscles worked well until the final phase. I also used Ibuprofen and paracetamol to control pain. I tried the fish-oil but didn't notice any obvious results. As things got worse I used a single trekking pole more and more.

I managed to walk and climb with the knee pain for quite a while using Ibuprofen or other NSAIDs and paracetamol to manage it. Strengthening exercises helped, and I used a trekking pole too. Again, it got too much eventually and I had a knee replacement.

I now have basal thumb arthritis, which is proving to be a pig to get rid of. I can no longer take NSAIDs for other health reasons, and there aren't any other solutions on offer just yet. I'm looking at physio for this.

Hope that helps...
 jon 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Bob Kemp:

> I now have basal thumb arthritis

Aaaarrrggghhh, me too. FAR more painful than my hip ever was before having a replacement! Just how that little joint can be more painful than a big weight-bearing joint, I've no idea.
 Paul Robertson 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

I have osteoarthritis in my shoulder. It does affect my climbing but I manage fairly well.
OP RGriff 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Mountain Llama:

They actually don't know yet!! They diagnosed me a few months ago and gave me steroid treatment but now the pain is back + joint stiffness but they don't know what it is...and my next appointment isn't until October
OP RGriff 14 Jul 2015
Thanks for all the messages, nice to see I'm not alone at least My wrist and finger joints are particularly bad which really affects my grip.

People have been mentioning physiotherapy - I was unsure because I always thought they were really expensive but maybe I should start looking into it.
 Conf#2 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Hi! Another 24 y.o who spends time in Sheffield with arthritis - it must be something in the water :-P

Yeah - I've got rheumatoid. Been diagnosed about 4 years now. It's taken its toll on climbing, I gotta say. hand and foot joint pain can be overwhelming at times (got it in all joints except my shoulders), but more so I'm discouraged by the uncertainty of whether my joints will allow me to make it to the top of a route - so my leading head is a bit all over the place, as sometimes I'll just be in too much pain to hold anything, or will lose control of grip altogether. Also the worse blood flow makes it hard to hold my arms above my head for too long without either passing out or getting dead arms.

So i've had to tone down the amount I climb a lot over the past few years, and my grade has suffered because of it, and that's crap, but that's something you have to come to terms with. (find other hobbies to go along side climbing if possible) And get a good drugs/meds regime what will keep inflammation to a minimum and lower your symptoms. - paracetamol and ibuprofen are good.
Keep the joints moving through doing low impact sport/easy climbing for short periods of time so the joints don't seize through lack of use. If rheum, warmth helps so go live in a warm country :-P (or have thermals/gloves/good socks to hand)

Now I'm eventually getting back into climbing after having to have a while off, and am feeling pretty good. Still got to be careful, and not get frustrated about things I can't do, but I can do loads more than when I was first diagnosed.

Ooh - another thing - having a systemic condition leads you to more easily fatigue, so have more sneaky food supplies around if you're out for a weekend/long day etc if you need them, and try not to get angry when you can't do epic weekend or something because you need more rest days then your pals. It's crap, but you have to adjust. Getting enough time resting your joints overnight, or doing shorter days, or something helps with sustainability.

Like, when I first got diagnosed I signed up to the OMM and then couldn't walk for a week after as my toes/ankle joints just didn't work. recovery times take longer, especially for injuries.

Think that's about it. Hit me up for anything else.

Cheers.
OP RGriff 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Conf#2:

Thanks for your response, I was so hopeful that the pain would just go but looks like I'm end up in your position sooner rather than later. It is so discouraging...thanks a lot for the advice though I think you're right, I'm just going to have to accept that my lifestyle is going to have to change
 Conf#2 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Ah mate - sorry to be discouraging! If it helps, I was hopping up 6a's at the wall on sunday on the lead (despite having 2months off indoor climbing from a tendon injury) and I've not done that for a while - so I was pretty pleased [god, how sad is that?]. I am convinced that I will continue to improve, but it is pretty crap. And I am very sorry.

Also - I still get out and stuff a lot, just have to tone it down. Do things like get a thick thermarest so your hips don't hurt too much to sleep, splash out on good gloves etc. as they will make you more able to do stuff. Hoping to get back into Scottish winter this winter too as I've not really been able to hold axes for a while.

But get a good drug combo - it really works! Now I go days without being in much noticeable pain at all (I know that doesn't sound great... but it's a big improvement!) The pain will lessen. But realising limitations is crap. I've still not done it 100% and sometimes have a hard weekend in the hills then am exhausted for a week (maybe I'm just getting old :-P).

Getting other hobbies was nails at first, but now I've a few things that I love nearly as much as climbing - swimming is great, and a few other things. Or just doing long mountain days instead of an intense cragging session or something. There's always stuff you can do.

Solidarity.
 ro8x 14 Jul 2015
Afternoon Sto_Helit

Firstly, keep your chin up - you can get sorted out pretty well, and if you're in Sheffield there is a good chance you'll see Dr Akil at the Hallamshire, who is a complete boss and gets you patched up pretty well.

From my personal experience I can only echo what Conf#2 said, go easy on yourself and don't get too down about not being able to do stuff you'd ace before. It will get better but it just takes some adjusting and I still fall back into "This would have been easy before I had this!" territory.

Am in Sheffield too if you ever need some advice or a climbing partner who goes at the same pace as you.

Karl

 Stone Idle 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Sorted out severe arthritis in the knees care of APOS - expensive but worth every penny. I also suffer in the hands but put up with that as it is not too bad (and gives me an excuse to wimp out of fingery leads)
 Conf#2 14 Jul 2015
In reply to ro8x:

Dr Tattersall in the same dept is also excellent, and knows that it's not enough to say 'get another hobby' as we just won't :-P
 ro8x 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Haha, yes indeed! I think all the staff up there are brilliant, without them i'd be a bit of a wreck!
 Bob Kemp 14 Jul 2015
In reply to jon:
Rubbish isn't it? Large numbers of shooting pains as opposed to the lower level dull ache and pain on movement with the hip. My understanding is that the pain difference is down to the proliferation of nerves in the hand.
OP RGriff 14 Jul 2015
I used to work in the Rheumatology department with both of them actually! Lovely people. I'm seeing a doctor and the steroid injection practically "cured" my knee but just means I notice the other pain more now

I've never heard of APOS so will do some research.

We'll have to set up the Sheffield Arthritic Climbers Club as there seems to be a concentration of us!

In reply to Sto_Helit:

> They actually don't know yet!! They diagnosed me a few months ago and gave me steroid treatment but now the pain is back + joint stiffness but they don't know what it is...and my next appointment isn't until October

Can only talk for OA, and it's all been said already. Exercise, rest (including enough sleep), pacing, Physio, adapting. Just carry on doing what you want and like to do, but making necessary adjustments to your aspirations and goals to allow you to continue and enjoy. You need, IME, to keep going to keep flexibility and strength up in the joints - accepting that it's going to get worse over time, but your trying to delay that time you ultimately have to give up. Interestingly, when I tore knee cartilage, and so exercising very little, all the OA joints went downhill rapidly. Personally, I'm convinced with the use it or loss it thinking for joints.

I've always been crap at climbing, but I ignored my GP advice to give up, and I can still do it, and in my mind it helps a lot. I get more pain and stiffness in fingers (though this is very mild to start with) and spine when I don't climb in a week! Mainly my OA is in neck, knees and one shoulder, but also in hands and one wrist. Yes over do it and you will have no option but to take more time to recover - your body will tell you in no uncertain terms - learn and adapt.

Specifically for the knees, cycling for me was the answer to regain flexibility and strength. Regular walking just didn't get the flexibility back.

You'll soon get to an appropriate balance to function and enjoy your hobbies. Just keep at it.


 ro8x 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Sheffield Arthritic climbers club for the win.
OP RGriff 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Climbing Pieman:

Thank you so much - I will keep going! And I'll definitely give cycling a try - I walk a lot and I often just feel like it wasn't quite enough. I'm crap at climbing too so I least I always knew I wouldn't be hitting the big leagues but I'm determined to keep improving somehow
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Just remembered, it may be all in the mind(!), but 1. I strap up my knees every night with sports bandaging when going to bed. I used to get a lot of pain at night in the inner knee, and the strapping stopped that almost entirely and minimises swelling as well as helping me sleep; 2. I keep my strongest painkillers for going to bed. Sleep is so vital to functioning well, and allowing the body to recover as much as it can.
 SenzuBean 14 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:
I don't have arthritis, but I know that my joints feel much crappier if I eat grain-based carbohydrates often, for a few days in a row - especially when I wake up. To manage this I just make sure to have vege/meat meals as often as possible and the problem goes away. After doing some research, I found out that wheat contains a lot of phytic acid (3%), and phytic acid binds to a lot of the minerals in food (phytic acid is undigestible by humans), so it's possible to lose a lot of the minerals in your food this way. So eating a bit of bread on top of a vege meal could actually undo the good that you did by eating the veges. Eat enough bread and almost all of your minerals could be being stolen.

The other important thing is to get the blood flowing as often as possible, and with the veins being as open as possible. The reason for this is that joints do not have blood flowing directly to them, but rather receive nutrients through perfusion/diffusion, the rate is increased with increased blood flow. The capillaries also need to be wide open for perfusion to take place - exercises stimulates them and can expand them temporarily. Avoiding/quitting vasoconstrictors (nicotine, caffeine - other stimulants are the prime culprits) can also give a ~10% increase in blood flow rate. Another option that I find helps me a lot is garlic. My favourite healing food is a garlic (2 hefty tsps per person) + cheese omelette

The reason it's important to focus on these small % improvements can be explained like this:
Every day, you suffer damage to your joints. For example, let's say that your joints have 1000 HP, and each day you suffer 100HP in damage, but also heal 100HP - the effect over the years will be nothing. As you age, or dietary/hereditary/exercise effects come into play, your healing capacity may decrease to say 99HP - this means every day, your joints will be worse than the previous -and 3 years later, your joints will be dead. If you can increase your healing capacity by only 2% - to 101HP - your joints will be healthier every day, and after 3 years your joints will be extremely healthy, and able to recover easily from days where you might suffer more than 100HP in damage.
Post edited at 16:06
1
Paula 15 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:
Hi,

I was diagnosed with RH 17 years ago. My advice would be to keep climbing. Never give up. It is important to keep your muscles strong which in turn will support the joint. You know your limits and work within them. That is not to say don't push (slightly).

It is painful and at times the fatigue is overwhelming. Frustrating too.

As for diet... that is very individual and a case of try and test. I was told that in clinical tests traces of cod liver oil were present in the joints, whereas other supplements were not.

Overall, you will have good phases and painful ones. But you can find a way to live (a full and adventurous) life with it.

All the best.
Post edited at 10:49
 steveriley 15 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

You may well be in the worst phase right now - not knowing quite what's going on. Once you get a diagnosis and learn to manage yourself well, things might get a whole pile easier and the future not look so gloomy. I've done tons of stuff I'm fairly proud of since developing joint problems. Bon chance.
 johncook 15 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:
I have osteoarthritis in both knees and most fingers. Can't complain after about 50 years of climbing abuse. I have tried the dietary changes/eliminating certain foods/taking assorted supplements, eg condroitin/glucosamine, eliminating wheat/gluten etc with no difference to the discomfort or mobility levels (the cond/glucose did tend to upset my stomach). Tried conventional routes via NHS, advice seems to be change activities/ slow down you are getting old! That ain't going to happen!
A friend who is an orthopaedic surgeon give me this advice. keep doing what you are doing within the pain thresholds you can cope with. At the end of the day get a really hot bath/shower/soak and massage the joints very hard. Painful as hell at the time, but over the time I have been doing it, my mobility in the affected joints has increased. He did show me specifically how to do this self-massage (torture?) He said a good physio would do the same, but possibly without the pre-heating. he says this is, in his opinion, a very important aspect and not to be omitted.
Good luck and keep climbing/walking/cycling/enjoying life, and remember you have a ready avoidance strategy/excuse which can be useful.
Post edited at 14:22
Paula 15 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Sorry, I meant to say 'RA', Rheumatoid Arthritis. Not RH.
 Ean T 16 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

I have osteoarthritis in one finger joint and I posted about it last year.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=601120&v=1#x7912785
Since then it has settled down quite a lot and doesn't really affect my climbing at all. The joint is still stiff, swollen and slightly deformed, but rarely painful. I take fish oil (which I took beforehand anyway) and rosehip (which has an anti-inflammatory effect).
 Valaisan 16 Jul 2015
In reply to Sto_Helit:

Blimey! They diagnosed you and immediately gave you steroid treatment! That's quite interesting. I suppose they told you that it can last (help) on average between 2 weeks and 2 months, so its no surprise it came back again. I'd avoid steroids if you can except in extreme circumstances, e.g. I had steroid injections in my knees 2 weeks before I went away on a 3 day trip for a big wall attempt because my knees had flared up badly enough to disrupt the trip. Worked a treat but 2 months later, ouch! the pain returned two-fold.

My advise, having suffered from injury related arthritis in both knees for 20 years, is keep-on moving, just keep going, never let the pain stop you and do lots of gentle stretching regularly, plus keep the muscles working the affected joint strong and fit. The more you rest the worse and stiffer it gets. I cycle a lot to relieve the pain: think its to do with gentle repetitive movement helps the joint mobility range and increases circulation which helps reduce the arthritic flare ups. Ice then heat then Ice then heat in your down-time; increases circulation and brings blood to the affected area which helps heal. Take Ibuprofen if you must, but not too often. Steroids only in extremis!

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