UKC

Off to baggy for my birthday this weekend (very excited) do the abb points need tat/mallions?

In reply to fire_munki:

They're stakes.

In reply to Kevster:
We're also heading those ways this weekend

Can give some rough advice as to what kind of protection the rock eats? (I've never been to N. Cornwall, or climbed on sandstone)

In reply to fire_munki:

Small gear generally goes down well there.

In reply to jezb1:

More like small wallnuts, or more like big Peenuts + big brass offsets? I'm planning to bring both, but if it's utterly imperative I have 3x sets of small wallnuts then I'll need to sort something out.

In reply to SenzuBean:

From what I remember climbing around VS at Baggy, just a "normal" rack will be absolutely fine. I think we used my gear when we went so a double set of nuts some friends and a few hexes. Of course, if you are off to repeat some modern desperate E7 ignore this advice, but then you probably wouldn't be asking in the first place!

In reply to SenzuBean:

Cornwall?

QUICK! EDIT!

In reply to SenzuBean:

I climb there on my regular rack - 1 - 11 Wallnuts (2 of each) and 00 - 3 in half sizes + one # 4 cams. I also carry, but rarely use a small bunch of microwires.

In reply to cuppatea:



S(*^!!!!! I meant Devon!!! I always make this mistake (facepalm)

In reply to TobyA:


Thanks for the reply. I've only got a single set of wallnuts, and use a set of offsets as my second set (so far this works well for N. Wales, and I leave the offsets at home for grit) - just wondering if my offsets will fit in at Baggy.

In reply to Kevster:

There are stakes. They are stakes. they're stakes. Their stakes. You choose

In reply to SenzuBean:

I speak on behalf of the cornish. We are not best pleased. You are being watched.

In reply to fire_munki:

Take a normal rack everywhere you go. Read the guide book to see if it says otherwise and you'll be fine. I've climbed all over Britain using this formula and it's worked. Lob an extra set of nuts in if you have them. Now you never need to ask that question again.

In reply to SenzuBean:

Offsets fit everywhere, I've had a set for 20+ years and have never found they don't work! Don't over think it - go with what you have and have fun! If lost Horizons is still HVS it's a steal at the grade.

In reply to TobyA:


Okay thanks - I should be sorted then. Lost Horizons is definitely on the to-do list, but it's only VS these days I think. I only asked about the nuts because I found that bigger offsets didn't really go into grit, and I suspected sandstone might've been similar.

In reply to SenzuBean:


Wtf are you talking about

In reply to SenzuBean:

Apologies for the late reply. Others have beaten me to it. I'd just take a normal rack, extenders are important on some of the longer pitches. The rock is a little like slate and sometimes gear isn't as secure as on other mediums.

SenzuBean - Looking at your profile, Kinky boots/ midnight cowboy and the excellent hybrid Kinky cowboy might be a push, but it is an awesome route. If you feel inclined and can get over the starting worry its a worthy tale in the pub after. *there are other quality lines available*.

Abseils: some people like 2 abseils onto the smaller bit with lost horizons on as the top scramble is a bit spicy. The descent onto the big slab with kinky boots on is also more comfortable with an abseil for most.

Only other one, is make sure you place good gear just before reaching the top/ broken bit. It can be a bit less solid on the top outs.

Enjoy. Baggy is one of my favourites.

Kev.

In reply to SenzuBean:

The first time I went, I took all my small gear, and left my bigger gear behind... and regretted it. I placed one microwire to take the piss, and then had to run out the end of Lost Horizons. You'll be fine with a standard rack.

In reply to SenzuBean:

Sandstone?

In reply to fire_munki:

I actually remember running short of nuts (might have just been nervous, don't remember the grade) and finished with one nut and no quickdraws left. I would recommend some extra nuts thrown in. I think it was kinky boots / cowboy but I would need to check. Lovely route though (and I scattered my Mum's ashes there so please say hi)

In reply to SenzuBean:


I've heard it's been infested by poisonous lizards and everyone should give it a wide berth until, er, Monday or something. :p

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baggy_Point says sandstone (and in the Rockfax too) edit: just noticed the wiki reference is to UKClimbing, which claims it's actually culm. My Rockfax definitely says it's sandstone.

In reply to Kevster:

Long Rock is not a stake abseil; you can use boulders at the top plus some gear.

Bring all the small gear you can get your hands on. Then all the big gear for the easier stuff. Then all the quickdraws (40m well-protected pitches eat them up). Have fun - Baggy is awesome

To get to Long Rock it is advisable to bring a rope for handrailing/abseiling down to the TOP of the cliff. This means if you want to climb on doubles, abseil on a dedicated rope and handrail down, you need 4 ropes... (obviously you can get away without the dedicated ab rope).

Personally I don't trust the Promontory stakes.

In reply to andrewmcleod:


Forgot to mention there are _lots_ of them (and absolutely minimal alternative gear - I think I backed it up one of our abseils with a bad peenut once which wasn't really worth it?). Just make sure you use a fair number of them (I only ever use the rope with large alpine butterfly loops for equalisation so you don't need slings/gear for the Promontory if you have enough rope).

In reply to andrewmcleod:

I find its easier to take the in-situ hand line down from the cliff opposite long rock, then walk across the beach to the routes. Its a bit hard to find the first time, as its black semi-static, but certainly worthwhile.

Ollie.

In reply to jimjimjim:


Medium rare please

In reply to OllieF:

I did not know that even existed thanks :P presumably you need low tide though? (most of the time I am at Long Rock the sea is still washing the lower parts of the ledges)

In reply to SenzuBean:

Culm is (metamorphosed) sandstone. Baggy is sandstone too, probably metamorphed (I dunno) but feels a bit differnt to culm.

In reply to andrewmcleod:

You do need a low tide yeah, most of the times that I've approached from there its been fine though!

In reply to Tom Last:

Certainly sandstone, but not metamorphosised. Gogarth is metamorphic sandstone i.e quartzite. The culm is just a well bedded coarse sandstone with beds of silt. It was then tilted and uplifted so some of it is vertical with big fissures filled with quartz and calcite.

In reply to philhilo:

Ah okay interesting, cheers.

In reply to philhilo:

I am an old dog now but I just did a geology course and know what you are talking about. I might be at Baggy enroute to Lundy so will be conscious of your description. Thanks.

In reply to philhilo:

Baggy definitely feels less altered than the culm though (no quartz bands).

In reply to fire_munki:

Well we made it back safely. Baggy point is a superb little crag, and Lost Horizon is by far one of the best climbs I've ever done! Thanks to the guys for letting us use their ab rope

In reply to SenzuBean:

No problem, it saw a lot of use over the weekend.