UKC

Has anybody descended from the Dirrujoch Eastwards towards the Bordier Hut? I'm referring to the final part of the Nadelgrat in Switzerland. The Moran book refers to a series of stanchions that could be ab'd down. Does anybody have any beta on the distance between the ab stations? Many thanks,

db

In reply to glaramara:

Descended this way on Saturday. We did 7 x 30 metre abseils. The stanchions are easy to spot and "out of the line of fire" from rock fall in the couloir. After the abseils end there is still approx 100 metres of 40 degree snow to down climb and an awkward bergschrund to negotiate (I lowered my partner from a bucket seat then jumped). This 100 metre section is exposed to rock fall but should improve if the temperature drops as forecast. Phil

In reply to glaramara:

http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/53805/fr/nadelhorn-nadelgrat-ou-traversee-...

refers to "ancienne" piste de rapel so may not be in good nick. also reference to "Arête typiquement valaisanne... en rocher valaisan"

it would be good if more brits registered with camptocamp added comments

In reply to Philiniqaluit:

Excellent, did you do the full Nadelgrat? How were conditions?

In reply to glaramara:

No, we just did the Dirruhorn from the Galenjoch (the NNE ridge?). We were planning to do the whole Nadelgrat (after an early start from the car) but ran out of energy/motivation so decided to bail from the Dirrujoch. Dry rock on the Dirruhorn, conditions looked good on the Hohberghorn. Phil

In reply to Philiniqaluit:
How was the ridge from the Galenjoch technically? Any nasties?

In reply to MG:

No. My partner was climbing pretty-much one-handed (mountain biking injury) and he managed ok. Getting to the galenjoch was hard work though. Lots of scree.

In reply to Philiniqaluit and Martin:
From the Bordier hut the Galenjoch is the obvious (and safest) way to start the Nadelgrat. There's a quite good path all the way - very narrow but cairned and easy to find even in the dark. I certainly don't remember scree though just below the col I did lose the path and ended up scrambling up a short rocky slab before finding it again. After the Galenjoch easy moving together scrambling up the ridge, as I remember - the harder bits are some way after the Dirruhorn. Coming from the valley you might have turned off too soon and not found the path. It is obvious if you are coming from the Bordier - descend to and cross the glacier to where the valley path is, and the path starts more or less there. The whole of the Nadelgrat is quite a long do... not something I'd like to do from the valley!