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Aiguille du Peigne

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 jon 23 Jul 2015
Will it be the next one to fall? It seemed to frighten Piola and his friend... http://www.camptocamp.org/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=2096777#p2096777
 alexm198 23 Jul 2015
In reply to jon:

Really sobering stuff, thanks for sharing. Definitely a year to tread carefully in the mountains.
 Tyler 23 Jul 2015
1
 Misha 24 Jul 2015
In reply to Tyler:
That's insane!
OP jon 24 Jul 2015
In reply to Tyler:

Here's what Piola says - run it through a translator and it'll give you an idea (quite a funny one at that) - but basically he experienced two enormous vibrating shocks while on the Peigne and later Ludovic Ravanel told him that these shocks were exactly what preceded the huge recent Dru rockfall. He ends up by saying he's not going to set foot in the mountains this summer unless it's on something ultra compact and low angle and outside the permafrost zone...

> Cet été caniculaire fait des dégâts: vous avez constaté comme moi que la montagne est très sèche et que les chutes de pierres et/ou éboulements sont nombreux.

Il y a 2 jours, j'étais dans la "Directe Française" en face nord de l'aiguille du Peigne, un peu pour me remémorer la voie normale que l'on devait faire avec le GAG le 16 août.

Engagés en plein milieu, par deux fois on "subit" un bref mais gros craquement de la montagne et... toute l'aiguille du Peigne se met à vibrer (la vire du relais, la paroi, notre palpitant, bref tout !!!). C'est le genre de situation où le temps s'arrête...

Mon compagnon était Aurélien Bosse, stagiaire à l'OHM (Office de Haute Montagne à Chamonix) ou il termine son mémoire sur le retrait des glacier et la fonte du permafrost (qui a pris un énorme coup dans les dents cet été, et continuera à fondre jusqu'à l'hiver avec l'inertie de la température du granite, même si la météo redevient glaciale en août).

Je sors à l'instant de l'OHM, où il m'a confirmé que Ludovic Ravanel (le grand spécialiste chamoniard de la question) lui a redit que, avant l'effondrement des Drus, les signes annonciateurs avaient été les mêmes.

Pour ma part, suite à cette sérieuse alerte, ou signe comme vous voudrez, je ne mets plus les pieds en montagne de l'été, sauf sur des piliers ultra compacts et moins que verticaux, ou en-dehors de la zone de permafrost.

Soyez prudents!
A bon entendeur.
 Goucho 24 Jul 2015
In reply to jon:

I was thinking of grabbing a couple of weeks to do some routes around Mont Blanc in August, but reading all this kind of stuff, and reports of conditions in the area in general, is making me think I might be better heading elsewhere?
 walts4 24 Jul 2015
In reply to Goucho:

> I was thinking of grabbing a couple of weeks to do some routes around Mont Blanc in August, but reading all this kind of stuff, and reports of conditions in the area in general, is making me think I might be better heading elsewhere?

To be honest, think you will be struggling to access anything past the schrund the way things are going.
It could be a good call going anywhere else where glacier access over the schrund to the start of the route is not the required method.
 Goucho 24 Jul 2015
In reply to walts4:

> To be honest, think you will be struggling to access anything past the schrund the way things are going.

> It could be a good call going anywhere else where glacier access over the schrund to the start of the route is not the required method.

We'll be in Courmayeur from the end of next week onwards, so I think some rock routes in the Dolomites might be a better option.
 wbo 24 Jul 2015
In reply to jon: i haven't kept an eye on Alps conditions but the possibility, also in august has popper up. Can i assume everything white is thin or melted? As an aside what are the search on the Tacul like?

OP jon 24 Jul 2015
In reply to walts4:

Just read your California Dream write up which seems to bear out what you've just said. Shame. Go and do Bada Bing or Bigger Bang... No bergschrunds there!

@ WBO - presume that's predictive text for seracs! Sorry, don't live there any more so I just don't know.
 walts4 24 Jul 2015
In reply to jon:

Just posted a photo of the approach to California, should be up later or tomorrow.
Walked into the perrons 3 times now to climb BB but either the weather, other parties or lack of topo has restricted the ability to get on it, one day soon.

Already decided for my next leave in Sept that will be heading East to climb in non glacier terrain as sure everything round here will be shot or just too dangerous.
OP jon 24 Jul 2015
In reply to walts4:
BB... Bigger Bang or Bada Bing or Bada Boom?

Here's my original topo for Bada Bing, just for fun http://www.escalade-74.com/Temporaire/BADA-BING.pdf
Post edited at 20:29
 walts4 24 Jul 2015
In reply to jon:

All of them to be honest, still waiting for the English version of the guide book to come out as my French is still so poor, any date soon?

Cheers for the topo, will put it too good use very soon.
OP jon 24 Jul 2015
In reply to walts4:

Translation not finished yet so surely not this summer.


 Mark Haward 25 Jul 2015
In reply to jon:

I was on the Peigne a few days ago. Never seen it so dry, loose steep crud in the upper approach gully instead of snow. Arrived at Breche to see two small rockfalls straight down the line of the first two pitches of the normal and Lepiney routes. We went up the neighbouring gendarme instead, although other parties chose to risk the rocks

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