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This guy with Action Direct training! SICK

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Andy Dorsen 27 Jul 2015
So alot of you may have heard about Matyas L who apperantly trains for AD although all he has done so far is an 8b.. Kinda big of a leap basically and he actually built the whole route in his gym after visiting AD, which as a concept is already wickedsick!
But nevertheless the approach seems imaculate.

Genius or delusional?

Heres his replica:
vimeo.com/128081447

And his figerboarding, which looks just mad.
vimeo.com/134504730
1
 Mike Highbury 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen: Here's to hoping that he never does it; because if he does, he'll have absolutely nothing left to live for. Or he'll get a girlfriend, which amounts to much the same thing.

2
cb294 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

Genius! Not the first one, though, to build a replica of a route to practise at home. A couple of years ago I saw Heinz Zak talk about his solo ascent of Separate Reality (20 or 25 years after he photographed Wolfgangs Güllich´solo), and he had trained for this for quite a long time on a wooden replica of the roof crack section he had built in his garage before actually getting on the route.

Actually copying short sport routes it is quite sad, though. What I really would like to see is a gym replica of the Walker spur!

CB
3
 spenser 27 Jul 2015
In reply to cb294:

According to Revelations (the Jerry Moffatt autobiography) Malcolm Smith did something not too dissimilar while training to do Hubble in his bedroom.
 humptydumpty 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

> Genius or delusional?

Genius! Surely this effort is the purest of sport climbing?

 jon 27 Jul 2015
In reply to cb294:

And don't forget Tony Yaniro's wooden replica of Sugar Loaf's Grand Illusion 5.13b in 1979.
 Timmd 27 Jul 2015
In reply to cb294:

I quite don't know how one goes about deciding another person's dedication is sad.

I do hope he doesn't get injured after putting so much into his goal...
 jon 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Timmd:

> I quite don't know how one goes about deciding another person's dedication is sad.

I agree with you 100%. I'm sure however that CB's comment < Actually copying short sport routes it is quite sad, though. What I really would like to see is a gym replica of the Walker spur! > was in jest.

> I do hope he doesn't get injured after putting so much into his goal...

Yes, me too.



cb294 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Timmd:

Come on, read my suggestion again....

CB
In reply to spenser:

> According to Revelations (the Jerry Moffatt autobiography) Malcolm Smith did something not too dissimilar while training to do Hubble in his bedroom.

I didn't know Mlcolm Smith had done this. Ben certainly had a cellar version of Hubble.
 thedatastream 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

I've got half a memory that Dave MacLeod did something similar and recreated the crux move of The Usual Suspects (E9 7a) on Sròn Uladail (Strone Ulladale) for "The Great Climb" because of his ankle(?) injury and being unable to get out as much.
 Timmd 27 Jul 2015
In reply to cb294:

> Come on, read my suggestion again....

> CB

I'll take my serious head off.
XXXX 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

10 replies and no-one has pointed out that the word 'wickedsick' is an abomination.

1
 Tom Last 27 Jul 2015
In reply to XXXX:

I was tempted, but knew someone else would stick their neck out eventually.
 planetmarshall 27 Jul 2015
In reply to XXXX:

> 10 replies and no-one has pointed out that the word 'wickedsick' is an abomination.

I just assumed that no one needed it pointing out.
 Shani 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

If I recall correctly, wasn't the whole concept of the campus board a training facility to strengthen Gullich's fingers specifically for the mono pulling on Action Direct?
 galpinos 27 Jul 2015
In reply to XXXX:

It's not even a word (and I refuse to even type it or quote it).
cb294 27 Jul 2015
In reply to galpinos:

Dropping the silent "e" at the end of "Directe" is almost as bad, at least when talking about a climbing route named after a bunch of French terrorists.

CB


PS: Not really, "wickedsick" beats it hands down.
 humptydumpty 27 Jul 2015
In reply to cb294:

> Dropping the silent "e" at the end of "Directe" is almost as bad, at least when talking about a climbing route named after a bunch of French terrorists.

Is it silent? French "directe" surely not pronounced the same as English "direct"?
cb294 27 Jul 2015
In reply to humptydumpty:

Directuhh ???

Should ask my children, my French is rubbish!

CB
 Durbs 27 Jul 2015
In reply to cb294:

> Directuhh ???


Dee-rect (French) vs. Die-rect (English)
 GridNorth 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

I only understand every third word an not necessarily in the order intended


Al
 planetmarshall 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Durbs:
> Die-rect (English)

Depends where you're from. North of the border it's more like 'Duhr-ect'.

Not that that's relevant to the French pronunciation, mind.
Post edited at 18:19
 stp 27 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

> Genius or delusional?

I'd have to say neither. Obsessive would the word I'd choose, but amongst climbers being obsessive is really pretty normal.

And judging by how he looks on those moves and the campus board then certainly not delusional. It would be interesting to see him try the route and see how he gets on after all that route specific training. You'd think he can't be that far off it judging from the videos.
 stp 27 Jul 2015
In reply to XXXX:

Personally I think 'wickedsick' is a fine word which precisely describes the content of these videos.
1
 streapadair 27 Jul 2015
In reply to stp:

I think I'd incline more towards 'sickwicked', which in any case scans more fluently.
 Owen240 28 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

What a total weiner.
4
In reply to streapadair:

I think we should combine the two, #swicked.
 Bulls Crack 28 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

I imagine his fingers will be sick at some point
 ericoides 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

I started building a porcelain scale model of the 38 route in my garden but gave up when the glaze went on the Difficult Cracks.
 Michael Gordon 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Durbs:

> Dee-rect (French) vs. Die-rect (English)

Of course no French word ends in a consonant, or at least one that they pronounce anyway.
 ericoides 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

palmarès
 foxjerk 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

i built a scale version of the a38 from plymouth to exeter with my scalextric and now i can drive it with my eyes shut. its only a 5+ mind.
 Chris H 29 Jul 2015
In reply to foxjerk:

Ive got a replica of the Exeter services roundabout on a driving simulator to try and improve my poor success record at staying in the correct lane - 7a+
 Niall 29 Jul 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Depends where you're from. North of the border it's more like 'Duhr-ect'.

> Not that that's relevant to the French pronunciation, mind.

I'm from Belfast.

Akshin Drekt.

So it is.
 BAdhoc 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

wont be long until you can scan in a climb and 3d print it....
 Sean_J 29 Jul 2015
In reply to BAdhoc:

Already very much possible actually - it'll take a while to print though and may require some further assembly...
 Smelly Fox 29 Jul 2015
In reply to spenser:

youtube.com/watch?v=vCFLB0lLAl8&

Here is a nice vid Of Malc on his Hubble replica, with a harder start and finish...
 John Ww 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Owen240:

> What a total weiner.

Wiener?

JW
 JJL 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

Great - we're witnessing the origin of the next Rich Simpson
 cheese@4p 30 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:


I gonna build a replica of Dee-rect (in 2 sections) and practice in my bedroom until fluent.
 JimboWizbo 30 Jul 2015
In reply to Andy Dorsen:

I built a replica of a boulder problem on my training wall and got golfer's elbow trying it
 radddogg 30 Jul 2015
In reply to JimboWizbo:

> I built a replica of a boulder problem on my training wall and got golfer's elbow trying it

I got golfer's elbow in my bedroom but that was nothing to do with climbing
 JimboWizbo 30 Jul 2015
In reply to radddogg:

What were you simulating?
 Niall 30 Jul 2015
In reply to JimboWizbo:

> What were you simulating?

sTimulating....
In reply to Owen240:

You spelt winner wrong.

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