UKC

ledge route ben nevis reply to steve

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 allanscott 29 Jul 2015
I can't get logged in so I'm starting a new threat to answer this question.
Ledge Route was approachable on Saturday by the rocks to the right of Number 5 Gully (with care, they were very wet).
The first ''slab pitch'' was wet and dangerous so we backed off after a careful recce being mindful of the consequences of a slip never mind a real fall.
We had done Aonach Eagach previous day and thought Ledge Route be a nice follow up.
I'm sure it would be but not without taking belays (we thought we could do without gear of any sort).
The left edge of the buttress (The Curtain ice climb in winter) is called Mourning Slab in summer. That would seem appropriate in the conditions.
We backed off very carefully and proceeded to climb No 4 Gully (snow from Lochan na Ciste all the way to the plateau) kicking steps and also using the gap between the snow and the right hand gully wall for progress.
Entertaining but not really recommended! LOL
We found THREE Grivel ice axes in the gully, yes, three!
We left them propped up against the cairn at the top.
Also found a half bottle of Icelandic schnapps on the summit in the observatory remains (which we did NOT consume)!
If you go up to tackle the route don't expect it to be dry and please take care.


 Dave the Rave 29 Jul 2015
In reply to allanscott:

Hahaharrghh. Me old matey. Was there any goooold? I will be up soon to swag those axess. Arrrghh.
Why are us pirates called pirates?




Because we arrghh.
 deepstar 29 Jul 2015
In reply to Dave the Rave:

>

> Why are us pirates called pirates?

> Because we arrghh.

What ever happened to The Capn?
 Dave the Rave 29 Jul 2015
In reply to deepstar:

> What ever happened to The Capn?

He fell overboooarrrd
 connor 30 Jul 2015
In reply to allanscott:

Ahhhhh it was you guys I could see from Tower ridge, I was wondering what you were up to.

For future reference there is an alternative start to ledge route that misses out the slab.

Head up into corrie na ciste and then traverse moonlight gully and buttress on a path to gain ledge route. Very atmospheric as you contour round.


Connor
 Siward 30 Jul 2015
In reply to allanscott:

Ooh! Where exactly is this Schnapps? I'll come up and get it...
OP allanscott 01 Aug 2015
In reply to connor:

I heard voices but couldn't see anyone on the cliffs. Considering the weather this summer, last Saturday definitely was a ''good'' day to be on the Ben. The guy we were speaking with in the Alex Mac Hut prior to going up the hill mentioned an alternative way of doing Ledge Route but not knowing the hill well enough we went for the guidebook description. I should have pressed him for more details of the alternative start I guess.

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