UKC

Sport climbing in the Lakes?

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 MaranaF 01 Aug 2015
Peers! Help me here, I have a short notice chance to spend a week with my 18yr old son who likes bouldering and I like to do some sport climbing so the question is...

Great crags for low grade sport routes [safer that way as he is a bit light for belaying me] and a bit of bouldering in the Lake District recomendations, preferably with camping?
 Bulls Crack 01 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:

Not a lot in the Lakes - some on the slate quarries eg Parrock but its not great. The odd 6a/+ on S Lakes limestone

More over in Yorkshire eg Robin Proctors Scar, Giggleswick etc
 Fraser 01 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:
You could maybe try Scout Scar near Kendal, it's probably accessible enough and might have suitable grades to meet your retirements. Is not huge but better than nothing. Chapel Head Scar is a better crag but not so good for the easier grades.

Edit: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=770
Post edited at 21:27
OP MaranaF 01 Aug 2015
In reply to Fraser:

Well that looks like a fun way to spend an afternoon, thanks Fraser.
 winhill 01 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:

Might be a bit far, depending on where you are but Coudy is a nice day out, by the river in Appleby.

Coudy Rock
In reply to MaranaF:

There is more sport on the slate around Tilberthwaite than Parrock (e.g. Hodge Close, Cathedral and Tilberthwaite Quarries all have some at a low-ish grade). Bramcrag Quarry is worth considering. There is both bouldering and sport at St Bees if it is not too far away.
 Mark Eddy 02 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:
The sport climbing in the Lakes is mostly not worth the bother if looking for lower grade routes, although i've heard Bram Crag Quarry is good (not been yet).

There is some excellent bouldering though. Try the Chapel Stile circuit in Langdale. Or for something more remote there's Samson's Stones in Eskdale, or Fisherground which is also in Eskdale and on exceptionally good Granite.
Pudding stone above Coniston is also a fine place to boulder, as is the Cold Pike area neat to Pike O' Blisco.

Slate quarries (Parrock / Hodge / Tilberthwaite / Cathedral): no low grade sport routes on offer at any of these venues. I think much of the Parrock sport has now fallen down! Hodge offers excellent climbing for sure, but it's not an easy cragging venue. Cathedral I think has routes starting at around E1 standard, so hardly easy by most standards. Tilberthwaite has a few slightly easier routes, but not much and plenty of it feels 'temporary'!
Post edited at 00:11
 mark hounslea 02 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:

Bram crag quarry. Loads of quality 6's and 5's
 tmawer 02 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:

Bram Crag Quarry is head and shoulders above the rest for low grade sport, not very far from the Mungrisdale Boulders (about 15 minutes drive) and near enough for campsites around Keswick. Enjoy!
 Route Adjuster 02 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:

As others have said Bramcrag Quarry is your best bet. Comprehensive route pictures and descriptions in the new Lake District guide from Wired publications. A 60m rope would enable you to lower off from most routes there, 50m would leave you short on a few routes.
 LGraham 02 Aug 2015
In reply to Route Adjuster:

Are the bolted routes at Bramcrag Quarry fully bolted or are they more trad routes with some bolts? How many quickdraws are needed?
 Route Adjuster 02 Aug 2015
In reply to LGraham:

Most are fully bolted (almost 70 routes), the new guide gives an indication where gear is required, only one or two routes require it.
1
 tmawer 02 Aug 2015
In reply to LGraham:

They are fully bolted, but with some routes having routes more spaced than on some crags, but many/most being well bolted. The odd route may need a wire, but the vast majority don't need anything other than perhaps a dozen quickdraws. The routes climb like trad routes in that you need to think a bit more about the correct line to take than on most sport.
 mike123 02 Aug 2015

In reply to
Well put . With the "secret" guide it was pretty much impossible to work out what was what without some help, but much fun was had following lines of bolts to success or failure . Now with the photo topos in the new guide it's pretty easy to work out. If you can get along with the micro granite, or persevere and get used to it , it's a great venue . Evening sun , quick drying , well bolted . What's not to like ?
Edit : to further answer the OP ,
There a pub just down the road and a simple campsite just down from the pub ,don't know much about the campsite but the pub serves a decent ish pint
http://www.lakedistrictinns.co.uk/kingshead_welcome.cfm
Post edited at 18:00
OP MaranaF 04 Aug 2015
In reply to MaranaF:

Thank you all for your help, the forecast was "Wet" so we went south... youtube.com/watch?v=8IgOg5PMXb8& Enjoy!

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